I recently began a suit project with Joe Morgan, one of the most supremely talented cutters on the Row.
The first point to highlight is the left-hand side of the pattern above, which translates to the inside seam of the trouser. The fact that the gap between it and the pencil line is smaller at the top than the bottom shows that Joe cuts a relatively closed trouser, that is to hang perfectly when a man has his legs slightly closer together. Joe believes most tailors cut a trouser that is too open.
Second, the curve at the top of the other part of the trouser pattern shows what is called a ‘crooked seat’ – the angle required to get up and over my bum, and into the small of my back. Again, Joe thinks not enough tailors put that amount of slope into the pattern.
Very much looking forward to this. I’m fond of the Nutter cut.
What has made you change to high-waisted trousers? A desire to simply experiment, or a more significant change in your personal style?
Just a desire to explore Joe’s style fully. It goes with his very nipped-in waist on the jacket and similar style on the waistcoat
Interesting reading in perspective, very nice choice of tailor.
Glad to see you trying these guys out, I’m a huge fan of the fellows from Nutters. I look forward to seeing the results.
-Theo
Theo, I agree with the Nutter link. I collect my first commission from Steed in a couple of weeks. Edwin was both with A&S and Nutter, and I am really looking forward to it!
simon are you able to advise on approx costs for C&M jackets / suits?
rups
Better than that, I can give exact costs! Two-piece suit is £3000 plus VAT, so £3600. Very good value.
From the trouser pattern it looks like they will have pleats. Is this just an experiment?
I would always have at least one pleat on high-waisted trousers.
Did you mean $4600? $3600 would be unbelievably well priced for a tailor of this quality, as crazy as that sounds.
Sorry, that should have been pounds, not dollars (I’ll change it now).
Still good value though, as I say.
C&M have just started their blog, not as indepth as this so far but still fun if you want to follow one tailor.
http://chittleboroughandmorgan.tumblr.com/
Indeed. Luke’s photography and/or camera have been doing well!
simon what happened to this suit commission, I can only see the following post:
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one
did you continue with this post?
cheers
It’s coming, but I’ve been away and haven’t had time to get in for a fitting…
Simon,I like the trousers.Kindly post pics of the trousers (front,back an sideways)when its finish.The line drapes down gracefully.Among the best looking trousers i’ve seen lately.
Nik