The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in.

Those buttonholes, of course, will be some of the finest anywhere on Savile Row. Check out the Milanese buttonhole on the jacket, below.

Also nice is the fact Michael has started putting a Milanese buttonhole on all of the C&M waistcoat lapels. Together with the cloth back, it makes them into much more like a functioning jacket. And as long-time readers will recall, I’m a big fan of the waistcoat and trousers as modern office attire.

Other changes were small: a slight nip to the waist of the trousers and touch more suppression to the waist of the jacket.

We also began styling it, as I considered where and with what I would likely wear the suit. The aforementioned waistcoat-and-trousers would work well at the office, but the jacket is too much of a statement for that. Instead, I’m likely to add that at evening events, perhaps with a simple white shirt and white handkerchief.

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Hi Simon

Will the back seam be this pronounced when finished? If so, why?

Second, is the lapel button hole hand sewn? Is there a specific way of doing it? Because I showed a picture of such a button hole to my tailor and he was adamant that this is not hand sewn as it does not have the tiny thread indents at the right angle to the horizontal thread!

Hristo Stefanov

Dear Simon,

First I want to say, that the suit looks very nice.
Second, I would avoid using words like “only”.
As far as I know Musella Dembech in Milano also does Milanese buttonholes. And for sure there are other tailors that does that too. 😉

Best Regards


You talk of how the jacket may be too much for the office, obviously with those lapels you can see why! What would you say is a good balance between sober enough office attire and fun after work, drinks or evening wear? Some of us like to not look too much like a banker after work!


Hi Simon,

what kind of cloth is this?

Philip Park

Hi Simon,
I really like the cloth you’ve chosen for C&M 3 piece. Are there any particular reasons why you went for this cloth?
Also, I would appreciate if you could comment on which season of the year you could wear this suit and its durability.
Many thanks
Kind regards

Abraham Walker

Great article and lovely jacket.

I’m in the process of planning a trip to London but need some more information on the bespoke process.
What is the least amount time needed for suit to be made? Can it be done in the time frame of a vacation? What’s the cost for a typical 2 piece suit? (I would pay for another set of trouser but I need to know how I should budget for the trip.) How long do fittings last?

Thanks again for your articles.


When showing a well cut coat,it’s an inspiration.How about also show how a well cut trousers that balances ,to exhibit the overall assemble.



would love those shoulders without the roping at the end, but otherwise, some great tailoring and finishing! Do C&M adhere strictly to this style of jacket, or are they amenable to more sober styles?



Thank you for sharing this. Personally, I like these built up shoulders much more than Italian shoulders. They remind me a little of those on Mr. D. Taub’s jackets. Is their construction similar in a way?


Like the knot on the tie .
Could you tell me what type of knot it is ?


So the only place we can buy that tie is at Chittleborough & Morgan, correct?


Hi Simon –

Stunning coat. Really like the lapels. Is the seam along the back an example of a lapped seam?

Would you tell me what C&M’s price range is for a suit like the one you’re having made?



To judge from the pictures, the seam at the back seems more raised than along the trousers?


What exactly was the wool? It looks superb. Is it from a known wool bunch like Loro Piana?


Hi you mentioned on another post/article that the C&M suit might be a 14oz. I just wanted to check that it was confirmed that this is the 4216 navy cavalry twill 15.8oz from Dugdale? A link is here –

I had thought it was the 14oz serge twill originally, link here –

I am looking to have this for my wedding suit (different maker) with a notch lapel. Do you think it would be suitable for a grooms suit (normal suit and tie dress code) in Autumn time? On another note, I am undecided whether to have an outside ticket pocket with it, is this appropriate for a grooms suit? I am looking to wear it in the future for work in a corporate office also.


Thanks and weight wise is 16oz too heavy to wear at an October wedding and at work or is it generally a normal weight? In regards to the ticket pocket, I did notice you had one on your Kent Haste grey wedding suit, is the reason why I shouldn’t because it makes the suit more casual for a groom to have?


As a bespoke finisher myself, I do feel that Milanese buttonholes are massively over-rated and over-hyped by a few Rake journalists. They are not strong enough to use on the working buttonholes and, for me, all the buttonholes should be of the same harmonious type. Lastly, they are not more difficult to do than a traditional hand-sewn buttonhole. I, for one, do not believe the hype.


Actually the Milanese buttonhole today has become fashionable while should remain milanese (caruso for example is neapolitan and it is well known in italy that neapolitan buttonholes sucks). But a very fine milanese is something you won’t see see a lot of them but just 1 or 2 of them are real. The real milanese buttonhole should be made only on evening dress or on special request in some type of fabrics, not on every sport jackets or suits. Bespoke tailoring is not fashionable.


First of all, the Milanese buttonhole is milanese not french, history speaking, it goes back to the “Università dei sartori” and probably sooner, then mixed with the abruzzi buttonholes method imported by domenico caraceni.
Secondly in taloring there are rules and rules are not subjected to fashion as in this case and absolutely not a matter of taste otherway every tradition and tailoring rules would have no more importance.
Last but not least, the neapolitans have a very loose tradition on buttonhole making, althought they have a long tradition in shirts (probably you know that a shirt buttonhole is different from a jacket buttonhole).


“learn the rules and then break them”..everything follow a rule, maybe you don’t see them because you don’t want to, but they are there 🙂


Well, maybe you can tell me you know your style rules but not the tailoring rules, to explain me better not the way you dress but the way you stitch the dress and I know them very well…and if I remember well we was talking about the rules behind the milanese buttonhole not the style you have. 😉


Hello Simon, wonderful piece. I espcially like the cut of the lapels with the slightly round belly..harks back to a 1930s style..see John Gielgud in Hitchcock´s Secret Agent (1939). Could you tell me about the wonderful blue tie…also is tied using four in hand (as you have achieved a longer shaplier knot). With thanks. Stephen.


Hey Simon. Im getting a second commission done by Thom Sweeney, a 3 piece in a subtle charcoal glen plaid check (its between charcoal and dark grey if that makes sense!). Im having a bit of an issue working out tie colours & patterns. Its more for an evening occasion rather than business. So I’m looking for something with traditional flair as apposed to a conservative look. Do you have any recommendations?

Gohar Raja

Dear Simon

Not only French tailors and Chittleborough and Morgan do Milanese button holes but also several Italian tailors do as well.



Gohar Raja

Agreed Simon, Tom Ford for one.

How many hours would you say were taken to make this suit?