Cifonelli club jacket
Dinner with Lorenzo Cifonelli on Monday was a highlight of this week’s trip to Paris. So conscientious, so grounded yet creative: Lorenzo in many ways has the perfect character for a tailor. And he has good taste in restaurants.

I was having two jackets altered while I was there – my grey herringbone and green tweed – with the waist being taken in and, as a result of the same weight loss, the collar tightened slightly. We all lean forward a little more when we lose weight, as the distribution changes from front to back.

Cifonelli

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Lorenzo is also in the early stages of a collaboration with Corthay (more on Pierre next week). It looks like this will begin with sharing customers and some stock, but build into something bigger. I can’t wait to see what shoes Lorenzo would design, and what suits Pierre…

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of Lorenzo’s restless creativity, but tend to tone down his designs for myself. Perhaps grey yak hair rather than bright green; perhaps one less calf-leather strap. The  jackets above are good examples. Two things he has made recently I loved 100%, however.

Cifonelli jersey jacket


One is this jersey jacket, which is made of a much heavier jersey than most tailors use, and therefore better suits the structure of bespoke. The second was his double-breasted ‘sports’ overcoat, which has patch pockets and a horizontal gorge. I have learned from bitter experience how practical this is on an overcoat. With regular peaked lapels, popping the collar never quite works. Either they fold back down or relentlessly poke you in the chin.

Finally, I mentioned in a recent post how good Lorenzo is on buttons. The reason is that he commissions new designs himself, such as the matte/shiny buttons on my herringbone jacket, and chunky ones on my navy suit. Below is a selection of the ones he has designed, including Cifonelli-logoed blazer buttons.

Cifonelli buttons

Cifo buttons

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Omar

Hi Simon
What do you mean by ‘tightening the collar’? and how is that done?

Rabster

On the subject of weight gain / loss (although it is normally the former), what do you suggest is the correct waist for jackets …..room for 2 fingers or a fist?
Given that the waist provides the emphasis on the silhouette getting this right is important.

Lee

I love that DB jacket

L.G

Dear Simon.

First of all I’d like to express my admiration for your blog and articles. Truly a continuous source of inspiration and knowledge.

Anyhow, I was wondering if you could guide your readers that are living near the arctic circle to a stylish choice in hats intended for use during the winter.

I do not consider myself man enough to wear a proper astrakhan or ushanka quite yet. Are there any substitutes that can be worn in town and integrated in an otherwise classic winter-wardrobe (i.e. polo coats, crombie coats, etc.)?

Regards.

a.o.

May I ask the name of the restaurant?

Juha

@L.G.

as a native finn this question is highly relevant
i look forward to seeing the answer