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These past few days I’ve been in Madrid, speaking at the Aristocrata club meeting and seeing a few of the tailors and shoemakers I know (Langa, Reillo, Calvo de Mora, Norman Vilalta). 

I invited Elia Caliendo and Luca Avitabile of Satriano Cinque to speak to the club (on my right and far right in the pic above) and it was lovely to see them enjoy talking about their craft to an audience for the first time. Many of those Spanish tailors were in the audience, and both sides found it interesting discussing the roots of tailoring in Naples and Spain. The influence of Spanish tailors on southern Italian tailoring is often overlooked – they travelled extensively, both to Italy and France.

Wearing blue linen jacket from Anderson & Sheppard, with navy grenadine tie and grey-linen hank with white edging (from Trunk). I’m a big fan of the grey handkerchief at the moment – it’s not quite as smart and stark as plain white, and I like the softer impact.

Below, selecting cottons at Jose-Maria Reillo.
 
 
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Juan Manuel

It’s always great to have such events… and always great to have you here, Simon!

Peter

It looks as if your audience is without tie, but all speakers tied.

J

Have you had anything made by Spanish tailors Simon?

We obviously all know the well known “centres of excellence” in London, Italy and Paris (which was new to me until I read your blog).

Is there a difference to Spanish tailoring style in the same way there is between British v Italian? I read your other pieces on Madrid, but could not form an overall view if it’s that you are simply recognizing more high-quality European cities for tailoring or is that there is something distinctive to it.

Although I do quite like the sound of having something made by the same tailors to the Spanish King (or Prince Charles for that matter) there is something ego-satisfyingly vain about it which I can say anonymously and without impunity on an internet forum 😉

Paul Weide

I think Mr. Caliendo is saying, “…and if you have only one shirt, it should have a spread collar.” (The rest of the panel nods their heads in agreement.)

LM

Very nice jacket and colour. What bunch is it, if you remember?

J

Thanks for the response.

Yes, lovely colour blue suit you are wearing .
I have been told off for only wearing BLUE and GREY, almost to the point wearing I think my new Naples tailor was a little frustrated by the fact I was only looking at blue swatches… (2 different garments).

You must write a piece on how to break free of the shackles of always wearing the same colours. Anything else just feels too risky!

Looking forward to seeing the Madrid garments.

Matt Spaiser

Do you know who the tailor to the King of Spain is? I’ve seen photos of him in very nice suits.

José Antonio

Hi Simon,

Would you be so kind to explain in what sence Spanish tailoring is not as good as the best English and French ones?

Thanks a lot
Jose Antonio (Madrid)

James

So Spanish tailors charge less when compared with the best French and Italian tailors and their finishing is not as good. I guess the price reflects the quality of the work.
Having worked in Japan and Hong Kong a few years back, I have noticed that the finishing by top Japanese tailors were much better than the top Hong Kong tailors. And top Japanese tailors charge twice that of top Hong Kong tailors. As you have worked in Hong Kong before, have you noticed this as well?

James

I never had anything made by Japanese tailor personally. But upon return to London the suits I commissioned from Anderson and Sheppard seemed much better than those I had from WW Chan or A Man. So in this sense, I presumed A&S charged more because they put more work (handwork/attention to detail) when compared with WWChan or A Man. Therefore, in a way justifying the price difference. Any opinion on this?