Teasel weaving begg

 
One of the interesting tensions in a factory visit is the way machinery is portrayed. Some manufacturers will boast of their old, traditional methods, when in fact the same thing could be done, quicker, by a newer machine – they just can’t afford it. 

However, one traditional method that is still considered superior among weavers is ‘raising’ the cloth with teasels (the brown thing poking out of my buttonhole above). Raising is a combing-like process that lifts fibres up out of the cloth. For many materials, you can do this very effectively with artificial spiked-objects (they look a little like hair rollers). But for anything other than the lightest cashmeres, teasels are still the best.

The dried flower heads are placed along a rack and combed across the surface of the cashmere. Their size and positioning seems to make quite a difference – Begg switched suppliers and brought the rack construction in-house in order to gain greater control over it. The exact arrangement is proprietorial information. 

Overall at Begg, however, it was great to see a company blending both old and new with confidence – new designs and washes, old methods and traditions. More on the factory next week. 

The jacket above is my Elia Caliendo tweed – very suitable for a Scotland trip and in keeping with the colours of the landscape. The pocket handkerchief is a cream cashmere square from Anderson & Sheppard. I find it a nice, casual mirror to a suit’s white-linen hank. Worth another photo at some point. 

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Andreas

Simon,

Both jacket and PS are amazing. The jacket out of my range unfortunately but the PS I have to buy. It´s not listed on the website. Did you buy it in store?

Greetings from Sweden

Chocoball

If a worsted starts getting shiny, would it be possible to raise the fibres again with a teasel?

Home Industrialist

Was the A&S pocket square manufactured in UK?
And your Elia Caliendo tweed woven in Scotland?

gary

if anyone is looking for more moderately priced tweed but fantastic at the same time check out nicola Smith on facebook who sells Amazing donegal. I just bought some and its going for a song

Massimo Bertoni

Dear Friend Simon
I always follows your interesting articles on your website, in particular about bespoke and cashmere, and I’d like to know (if is possible) what is the best place in Great Britain to buy cashmere. If You had to give me an advice, what would You suggest me? Is better English or Scotland cashmere?…for example Johnstonscashmere or Berk, Begg or Brora? I wish to specify that I’m for old traditon, maybe it’s a mistake but for me….old tradition is synonymous of quality.
Hoping to hear You soon I thank You in advance.
Best Regards, Bertoni Massimo.

Massimo Bertoni

Dear Frined, Simon
Many thanks for your reply……your information are precious to me as always.

Anonymous

Hi Simon, would be great to know your take on the Begg Arran “Doig” oversized scarf (https://www.beggandcompany.com/mens-striped-oversized-cashmere-scarf-mink.html). Would you wear it? Would it be versatile? Thanks very much!