Belt capsule guide: The basics
There’s been a lot more interest in belts with smarter clothing in recent years - something I highlighted and explained my reasoning for in this article.
But we’ve never done a ‘wardrobe building’ piece on them, or set out my general advice in one place - at least, not since this rather basic piece 16 years ago (16 years!).
So here are some guidelines, essentially capturing all the little pieces of advice given in answer to comments, plus some personal reflections. I’ll follow up in a subsequent article on suggested brands, including my personal collection.
1. Colour
A smart belt should roughly match the colour of your shoes. That doesn’t mean you need a brown one for every shade of brown you own, but in general most guys that wear a lot of smart clothing will need a dark brown and a black, plus perhaps light brown or tan.
A good example of matching or not is Color-8 cordovan. I’ve never managed to find a Color-8 belt I like, but this is minor niggle. Until I do find one I’m happy with, I wear dark brown (given how dark most of my Color-8 is) or forego a belt altogether.
With more casual shoes, there is much less need to match materials or colours. You just want a more casual belt - eg a tan suede, a braided leather - rather than a slim smart calf. There’s also more leeway to wear more colours - eg stripes on a webbing belt.
More on matching leathers in this article.
2. Leathers
As with colour, you want to roughly match the material when it comes to smarter shoes. So suede with suede, leather with leather.
This is pretty obvious - less obvious are the things that make a belt smarter in respects other than colour: width, buckle, stitching, type of leather. The most common mistake I find guys make is wearing a thick brown leather belt (often with a big buckle) with a fine calf shoe.
This distinction between types of belts is also often one between types of maker. Independent leather workers, particularly in the UK, tend to work in thick leathers like bridle that have no backing and no stitching along their length (eg Tim Hardy). These will usually be more casual than a maker who uses finer leathers like calf, on both sides.
Braided leathers are a nice casual option, but can look a little old-mannish in some contexts. Personally I prefer these when they’re a little narrower, or very worn in. Tooled leather is a lovely art and a more casual look - a nice option if you want the belt rather than buckle to be slightly unusual.
3. Other materials
Exotics such as crocodile can be a nice way to elevate a belt, without going for something as dramatic as a big buckle or an unusual colour. Unfortunately, exotic leather has gone up hugely in price in recent years - the supplier I know best has seen the cost price of their crocodile double in five years.
If you can afford it, I still think croc is a nice option, but also look around for alternatives such as lizard (Ralph Lauren used to do some great ones) or ostrich - I recommended here my ostrich-leg belt from Silver Ostrich. Other types of leather with some texture, such as deer or a tumbled calf, can be also be a nice bridge between smart and casual.
A canvas belt is useful and subtle, and has functional aspects some people like (a little stretch often, a softness and lightness). But like braided belts, they can look a little old-fashioned. The best way to avoid this is going for something slimmer and subtler, or getting an unusual vintage one (Sean Crowley has loads), or perhaps a cordovan-faced one (eg Rubato).
4. Width
Classic belts are usually between 1.25 and 1.5 inches, with smarter ones at the narrower end of that spectrum.
However I like narrower belts, both as a more elegant look and something a bit more unusual. Going from 1.25 to 1 inch makes a surprising visual difference - like a lapel going from 3.5 inches to 4. It’s particularly nice with tailoring, but I like it with jeans too, like my Ludens belts.
One-inch belts have become popular in recent years and quite a few of the newer brands offer it (Berg & Berg, Natalino, Rubato) where the more traditional ones stick to 1.25 and above. So it might be a bit of a trend, but at the same time I don’t think it will ever look odd or out of place, given it’s a small difference.
Very thin belts can also be quite interesting, like Matt Woodruff’s here for example (vintage) or the tape belts Husbands and Scott Fraser Collection do. But they’re definitely more of a look.
5. Buckle materials
A good belt buckle is solid brass, even if it’s then been coated silver. It’s stronger and ages better. That’s often the most difference between a cheap belt and a more expensive one, though not everyone bothers to say so online. (In person it’s more obvious - solid brass is heavier.)
Try to avoid buckles with obvious treatments. ‘Antiqued’ effects tend to look artificial, and even something with a coating that doesn’t look like it’s had an ‘effect’ applied is better to my eye.
You can get buckles in solid silver, but they will be more expensive. One well-known silver design is the engine-turned buckle associated with Tiffany, some Western belts and Brooks Brothers (and so a bit of an Ivy staple) These are often not as expensive as other sterling silver as the material is quite thin.
Those Ludens belts of mine have that design. And that leads us onto the last section…
6. Buckle designs
This is a huge area, and probably deserves its own in-depth article at some point. You can roughly separate it though into different shapes of dress buckles, and then more unusual ones like Western buckles.
As to the first category, I think elegance and subtlety will be the watch words for readers. Think of this as a piece of jewellery, at least from a design point of view. One of my favourite aspects of a Cartier watch is the clasp you get on many Tanks - that delicately turned and flowing design that really adds to the design of the whole.
Obviously, a big Hermes ‘H’ is fairly crass, but it’s worth considering the finer aspects of design too, as it’s likely to be one of the few pieces of hardware you’ll be wearing.
Buckles become more casual as they get bigger and thicker. They may suit a thick cowhide belt more than a dress one. But they also explode in possibilities, with square frames and oval plates, containing initials or pictures, as well as three-piece engraved sets.
These can be real works of art, and fantastic if they’re your style. But as with most things I’d advise going slowly and carefully. I have two from Silver Ostrich which I love, but mostly as objects. When I put them on they often feel like too much of a statement, and they get worn a tenth as often as every other belt - usually when an outfit feels like it lacks something.
Double-ring belts are nice on canvas belts, a little more unusual on leather ones. I've had them in the past but sold mine as they always felt a little fussy. I can definitely see the appeal for someone who likes the functionality though.
That feels like enough for a first article, but do let me know what I missed and what you’d like to see included in subsequent pieces.
I will, as mentioned, do one follow-up on my collection and brands, but feel free to share your personal recommendations in the comments here as well.
Remember all articles on PS are broken down into categories in the menu, so there is a dedicated section here on belts and wallets (small leather goods basically).
Simon one point which is perhaps worthy of mention is the link between formality and belt width.
Typically, tailored trousers will have smaller belt loops whereas jeans will have larger belt loops.
Wearing a lesser width belt with jeans would not look right, whereas wearing a wider width belt on more formal tailoring would risk the loops looking stretched.
Thanks Martin. It’s definitely worth bringing up, though personally I don’t mind the belt being a little narrower than the loops on jeans. And of course otherwise you couldn’t wear a narrow belt with jeans.
I wouldn’t want loops on dress trousers to be obviously stretched though
Reading this article, which was very interesting, I had the same thought as you. I have several pairs of Levi’s Lot 1’s and a 2.5cm width doesn’t look right in the loop holes to my eye. Nothing wrong with a 2.5cm but with those jeans, but I think a 3-3.5cm belt looks better when I do want to wear a belt, personally.
Simon – is there anywhere you would currently recommend for a good croc or alligator belt? Rubato don’t seem to do the one you have, which I really like.
Rubato are bringing theirs back, but as mentioned croc has become very expensive recently. I don’t any others, though most of the makers will offer it as an option
Thanks for the heads-up. I will look out for the Rubato one.
Hi Simon, great to know Rubato is bringing back their alligator belt! Do you know if it’ll just be in black or more colours this time?
I don’t know I’m afraid
No worries, thanks Simon! Also, I’d highly recommend Hassett Goods, who have long made many of P.Johnson’s belts, in Melbourne to readers looking for custom belts, including crocodile options: https://hassettgoods.com/
JSB, maybe not quite what you’re looking for, but W. Kleinberg came to mind when you mentioned you’re on the hunt for an alligator belt. Perhaps worth a look. And I’m sure House of Fleming would be happy to create a belt to your specifications.
Thank you, Andrew. I will check them out. Appreciate the recommendation.
I am not a big fan of colour 8 Cordovan with brown suits. I prefer black or dark brown. I like colour 8 but wear it mainly with navy, charcoal… As a consequence I do not like a brown belt with colour 8 shoes. I bought a colour 8 belt at Alden with my loafers, and it has always done the job nicely. Then I would suggest 3 belts: black, brown and colour 8…
Interesting as always, even regarding items i seldom wear. On belts – i’ve heard they can “cut a man in half” alluding to breaking up your silhouette and effectively making you look shorter. On many other things (like tonal dressing) I tend to not put much weight into trying to look taller, you are how tall you are and dressing in all navy isn’t going to fool someone. But, i have never really worn a belt and i think in the back of my mind its because of the perceived effect on height . Do you think there’s any meaningful weight to this argument?
As an aside, could you let me know where the cardigan in the thubnail/last photo is from? Its beautiful.
Yes there’s definitely something in that argument, but it matters more with smarter clothing. If you’re wearing fine, draped cloth, long interrupted lines will add to an impression of height. But if you’re in jeans and a T-shirt it won’t make much difference.
Many of these rules come from the world of smarter dressing, because it was narrower and could work with them.
Also, I’d say it’s only one factor among many, in any outfit. I’d care more about the visual interest of a belt – whether I want that or not – more than the height point. But then I am taller
Oh, and sorry that cardigan in the last image is from Connolly
I do occasionally avoid wearing belts because of the “cut a man in half” thing. I think it’s true, not as important to giving the illusion of height as trousers with a gentlemanly rise, of course. I have a surcingle belt in khaki (with a thin blue stripe through it) that very closely matches my khaki trousers that I think is a very stylish look (yet still conservative) which takes the “cut a man in half” thing into account. I actually wore it yesterday with a yellow OCBD and got two compliments on the outfit the moment I walked into a room.
Great article! I’ve been wearing belts a lot more recently, especially as I stopped wearing suits to work. For what it’s worth, and this is in the context of someone who has really tried to slim down his wardrobe, I found one dark brown alligator, one black alligator (both one inch wide) and one silver engine turned buckle (to use interchangeably) works with any outfit except really casual outfits (where I wouldn’t wear a belt anyway as a T-shirt or polo would be covering my waistband).
It’s smart enough for a suit, textured enough for more casual wear and works well with jeans for both workwear and western looks. Sure, I’d love a tan belt in ostrich and a braided suede belt, but I find this an effective capsule.
Thank you Simon. I , among others I’m sure, requested this article in the past and great to see it here. I am delighted to see Tim Hardy alluded to in this article…. great belts but I do agree from my experience that they are rather thick and just not quite right for dress belts. It will be Crockett & Jones for the dress belts from now on and they do a great variety, calf, suede, and I think crocodile and are pretty generous with sizes too.
I do look forward to your upcoming subsequent article on brands!
P.S. I’m off topic but how are the Canons shoes coming along? They, if I’m correct rescued Fosters shoes?? I’m looking forward to that article!!
Nice to hear Lindsay. Yes good point on Canons, I haven’t heard from them in a while. I’ll send them a nudge and ask. Yes, they were the Fosters bespoke team
I did forget that Crocketts do a “bespoke or MTM” in their belts as well.
I would say C&J’s buckles are less elegant than others (eg Rubato’s)
Yes I think that’s fair
Maybe I’d better take a look at that and especially Rubato’s
I checked the Rubato webpage and predictably the largest size is 41” (105cm) waist, way too small , I’m a 45”….unless they do MTM….sadly an all too common problem.
Where are the trousers from in the last photo?
I believe those are Rubato Officer Chinos in dark brown.
Yes, correct
For more than a decade I use belts from Kreis Ledermanufaktur. I can definitely recommend them as they have very good leathers (including Cordovan), manufacture in Germany, and offer Made-To-Order, so that you can order a belt in your size and specifications.
Regarding the style – I like narrow, mid or dark brown belts with simple elegant non-flashy buckles. And at the end of the day, in my perception trousers almost always look better with suspenders (because they will have less breaks).
Thanks, and thank you for the personal recommendation
Sounds good,Hristo!
Will check them out!
Thanks
Lindsay
I support the recommendation of Kreis Ledermanufaktur. Great belts, MTO and at a reasonable price (depending on the leather).
I second that, Hristo. They send out leather samples for each order. You can also give them a call and they are happy to provide information on additional buckles or possibilities, not shown on their website.
It would be useful to have a list of quality manufacturers. You mentioned Tim Hardy whose bridle belts are great value. McCrostie of Scotland is another option and a few are available from John Simons. Barnes & Moore has a good choice of leathers and colours.
Thanks Kent, yes as mentioned that is coming.
Alden mades color #8 belts. Not every store that carries Alden will have them, but the brand owned stores in Washington, DC and San Francisco almost always do. It’s pretty generic in terms of buckle and width.
Yes, they’re fine, I’d just like to find one that’s a slimmer length. Ideally a slightly more elegant buckle shape as well, and the way the cordovan is joined isn’t that neat when I’ve seen them in person – you need a join with cordovan, but it could be done more precisely
I really like this one: https://besnard.co/products/burgundy-leather-dress-belt
Simon how do you rate the quality of Andersons Belts (an Italian manufacturer, I believe) ? Given their price point are Rubato’s belts at the very highest level of materials and finish of ready made belts availabe? Any other brands/retailers (with a web presence) that you recommend for similar classic/timeless high -quality narrow belts? How do you rate the finish/quality of Natalino’s belts ? Thank you.
Hey. As I said I’ll do another post on brands, but Andersons are a solid make, yes. Rubato are at the highest level, yes. You just want a good quality level of calf/suede (doesn’t have to be the absolute finest, there’s little benefit there) and a solid brass buckle. After that it’s aesthetics.
Hello Simon. What is the significant of lined vs unlined?
You tend to have lined belts with finer, smarter leathers, where the leather on its own wouldn’t be strong enough as a belt because it is finer
I always give a shout out to Mcrostie in Glasgow for belts …
As with this or any other recommendations, an explanation as to why would be helpful.
The first belt on their website has their logo engraved, which didn’t seem very permanent style.
Not everyone will like the look but I’m a fan of braided belts. Functionally better than a non braided option. I’d go narrow in a smarter context (office/chinos) and wider for jeans etc. Pictured is Anderson’s narrow braid. Well made, brass buckle, no fancy embellishments.
Thanks John, yes I like that narrower Anderson’s option. Not a big fan of the buckle shape, but that’s very personal
Trunk just received some kangaroo belts in from RM Williams that I need to take a look at
Thanks Ryan, missed that
Big fan of belts here. My trousers never used to stay up. Now they do, pretty consistently. Occasionally use braces too, just to doubly sure.
Braces and belt at the same time?
I sadly can’t wear solid brass dus to a metal allergy I have (only an issue when wearing with a t shirt out of the pants, but the rass is severy and takes 2 weeks to recover). A good option is stainless steel for those with metal allergy, although you have to find them at shops like Etsy most of the time.
Do you have any tips for unique and elegant belt buckles for those that have a metal allergy?
If it’s only brass that’s a problem Edwin, is it an issue if the brass is coated with something else, as a silver buckle usually would be?
Not sure Simon, since I haven’t tried them. My silver jewelry doesn’t give me an allergic reaction. So probably not an issue.
I was at first very skeptical to the 1 inch belts but now I really like them for tailoring. I am still in the No corner when it comes to wearing them with jeans.
Fashion conscious brands like the one you mentioned and also Saman Amel are now totally into 1 inch belts. (That actually turned me off for a while, not because it seemed like more fashion than style).
But I have one question. Most of the brands seems to only use brass or golden bucket at the moment. That seems counterintuitive to the trend with more “cold” or monochromatic/tonal outfits. How important is really the color of the bucket (if its small and elegant, not big and dominant).
I don’t think it makes that much difference to the warm/cold point. I’d say it’s more about which you prefer for the style – eg I like brass with my smarter outfits and that looks good, but prefer silver for those western ones
I’ve noticed you do not really pay attention to use the belt in the “right” hole e.g. the middle one. So regarding length you just go a little longer. Is there a reason why? Maybe if one gains weight the belt still is wearable?
Also glad to hear, that the alligator belts are coming back at rubato, I’ve always thought that yours in black is very elegant!
I generally buy in order to use the middle hole, but weight gains up or down mean at least one notch either way, sometimes more! Also if something thick is tucked into it, like a thick denim shirt and a T-shirt underneath
Thank you Simon, this is a very useful piece and great to see this article as someone who requested this.
I have a few further queries if I may. It seems most people go for brass coloured buckles rather than silver. Would you generally recommend all brass buckles for a collection of 3-4 belts, particularly for a more casual dresser (i.e. with chinos and jeans) who rarely wears tailoring? Should much consideration be given to belt width in this context too?
I’d try one or two and make sure it’s what you like, but yes all brass colour would be fine.
I don’t think yellow or white metals go better with particular widths, if that’s what you mean, no.
Thank you, I was more wondering if a particular width looks better when paired with more casual clothing as opposed to tailoring.
Ah, I see. I kind of mention this in the piece – slimmer belts are naturally smarter, but I like them more casually as well
My general rule is slim and fine for formal occasions and tough and rugged for casual (my level of casual is red wings and raw denim). I have found that I was damaging my fine belt when worn with rough raw denim and when doing some strenuous hiking etc, where there is some tension on the belt. My 1.5in wide, 5mm thick Barnes & Moore is indestructible and looks great with rugged boots. But would be obviously out of place with finer wear
Sounds like a good combination John
Thanks. Sorry if I may just go back to the point about brass versus silver. I see on another comment you prefer brass with smarter outfits and silver with western. Just curious as to the reason and if you would say you prefer either colour for more casual outfits or if one works better?
I don’t think I prefer either with more casual outfits, it’s just that silver is a better match for those kinds of western belts generally. It’s about that specific style. A thicker brass buckle – like the horseshoe one pictured in this piece – can be great for casual belts too
In the spirit of indexing clothing, Alyssa Beltempo just did a video about digitally cataloging your wardrobe using the app INDYX.
https://youtu.be/Np2VRSxzUNk?si=JpRqh7P02CoFV6XH
We are getting ever closer to Cher in Clueless.
Haven’t tried it, not endorsing it, but seems to be the best version I have seen.
I really enjoy belts. I have made all of mine, (You can tell when you see them up close that I am an amateur). The buckles I use are more casual, 1970s brass buckles with Colorado Ski resorts on them, or my grandpas old Snap On buckle. I am wanting to make a more formal one, and I love the 3 piece western sets. But I agree with you Simon, they feel loud. I know folks like Alessandro Squarzi wear them frequently, but I’m not sure if I can. I have a vintage brass buckle that looks similar to the one on your croc belt. I think I will get a nice chocolate bridle leather and keep it simple.
What are your thoughts on a rough out instead of suede? Would this push it further into a casual belt again?
Wow, impressive!
Yes I think it would.
Simon what is your preference when wearing jeans with tailoring? A wider belt or a narrow one?
Narrow
Does anyone know where to get a good burgundy leather belt? I know it is a shoe colour not everyone likes, but I have a pair of burgundy loafers I really like for a more casual but still quality looking style.
Crockett & Jones offer a burgundy shell cordovan belt
As others have mentioned: Kreis is a very good adress.
I like Carmina belts as smart belting options in various colours also burgundy, they’re high quality with nice stichting. They have silver coloured and brass buckles.
Cheaney (shoes) now also offer calf belts in Burgundy. I have good experience with their belts. And can also confirm good experience with belts from Crockett & Jones, Anderson’s (Italy), Kreis (Germany) and Allen Edmonds. I would recommend Tanner Goods (USA) for more rugged versions as well, their quality is good.
Honestly, if you cannot find what you want a retail you should find a local leathercraft person. As a hobby, I dabble in leathercraft (with poor results) and am always on the lookout for interesting belt hardware I can use in making a new belt.
There are probably plenty of leather guys in most cities and they can dye to the exact colour.
I find it quite sad that Tiffany’s no longer makes their classic engine turned buckle. It’s a great design.
Hi Simon
You write that “[a]s with colour, you want to roughly match the material when it comes to smarter shoes. So suede with suede, leather with leather.” I find that when I wear suede casually (typically desert boots or loafers with denim or workwear chinos), it actually looks better and a bit less studied, in a good way, if I wear a similarly casual belt in a different material (for example braided calf or bridle) and roughly similar color.
On the other hand, it totally makes sense to match materials for a smarter look.
Thanks BC, interesting. I can imagine it would help too if that leather were a little rough or textured, like a braided one as you say. A smooth shiny calf and dressier buckle might not be quite as good
For those of us whose weight can go up and down a few kilos the utility of a belt for trousers without side adjusters or buttons for braces/suspenders is an obvious necessity. In the USA Allen Edmonds and Trafalgar both still sell high quality made in USA belts at fair prices.I would suggest staying away from the designer labels. The RLP belts are now mostly made in 3rd world countries with high prices and questionable quality. I also own a couple of reversible travel belts from Ferragamo and Brioni. These belts are wildly expensive with flashy buckles and mediocre leather.
Great article Simon. It’s funny, any time I see you wear a belt I think it look super well styled, and in my current trouser commissions, I opted for side tabs. Feeling a tinge of regret, as I’ll wear the trousers simply with shirt/polo and knitwear. Maybe on following trousers I’ll get belt loops.
Also, I have this issue with jeans and belts sometimes, where the fabric bunches at the waistband when belted and looks unsightly. Could it just be from the waistband being too wide, and in that case would it be worth getting the waist narrowed?
It should be possible to have belt loops added later Zawaad, if you want. Given it’s such a small amount of material, you don’t have the usual problems of different pieces of the material being slightly different colours.
I’m not entirely sure on your probably, but it sounds like perhaps the belt is quite tight and the jeans a little big in the waist?
Simon,
Another interesting post. A belt is an accessory capable of elevating or debasing an outfit at every level of formality or casualness. I’ve noticed here, and in some other posts, you use the term “Old Mannish.” As an avid reader and old man (75) I wonder why. I predict with a high degree of certainty that you have an excellent chance of becoming an old man yourself, and I expect you will be ever stylish at every step in your journey. And by the way, the view from “Old Man-Ville” isn’t all bad.
Cheers Roger. Yes it’s certainly not to apply to all old men – or older men, as my Dad suggests I should say instead. Rather, it is referencing a certain traditional, straight old-fashioned look that is a particular problem for some people with classic menswear
Thank you Simon. I am sure I have asked you this previously, but any chance for a rec where I can get a croc strap for my silver compression buckle without paying an exorbitant price for it?
Unlike in the US it seems tricky to find one in London. I had emailed W Kleinberg to ask them if they are shipping to the UK but never got a response back.
Cheers
I don’t have one I’m afraid, and I said croc is only getting more expensive. But do let us know if you find one
Just a recommendation from my own experience: The German beltmaker Kreis does them pretty quickly to any measure. Croc or alligator isn’t cheap there either, but to me the prices seemed very competitive. You have plenty of options to choose from. I ordered a caiman belt and also sent them a buckle made by a goldsmith acquaintance of mine. They attached it at their workshop and sent me the belt, the whole process took maybe 2 weeks (or maybe a bit more, can’t recall exactly). It is beautifully made and exactly what I wanted.
This is, at this moment, my collection of belts.
All have 925/sterling silver buckles, and all are handcrafted in calf, made to measure.
Different leather shapes (straight, tapered, ranger…), different finishing (sewed borders, plain…), diferent buckles adjusment system…
…but with some personal touch in common, perhaps.
I use them all, although some of them are much more wearable than others.
And I find them a point of interest and individuallity in this times of casual wear uniformity, dominated by branding.
Jean Rousseau in Piccadilly Arcade make nice belts (and can do MTO). Expensive though.
https://www.jean-rousseau.com/gb/product-category/leather-goods-gb/belts-gb/
A good subject for discussion. I’ve been considering getting a new belt. Having lost some weight my belts are too long – I’ve added some notches which could be a point of pride but also leaves things looking a little sloppy. Not sure if it’s a good look or not…
Anyway, what I’ve been debating is the colour of buckle. I find some leathers work better with different colours in the cold/warm sense. There’s also the tie in to different jewelry, watches, etc. My favourite buckle is a kind of tarnished brass – the new ones look too bright and shiny.
I pretty much alternate between a belt I’ve had for about 20 years that might be a pull-up leather with a kind of pewter/silver buckle, and a solid brown one with the aforementioned tarnished brass. Both are pretty casual, for jeans, cords, shorts and chinos. For suits I don’t bother with a belt (my black belts are much too big).
Those both sound nice Mike. The extra-long belt thing I think is a particular look, more for more relaxed slouchier styles. It’s not me really but someone like Jamie does it well
I have a belt from Tim Hardy and would highly recommend him and his product. Material, make and finish all superb. Also very pleasant to deal with.
I note that many English makers tend to specialise in unlined bridle with no edge stitching – a byproduct of the English historically having less of a liking for belts with formalwear than the Italians and Americans, perhaps?
I think it’s more the fact that bridle leather like that is easier to get and can be made without sewing machines, leather backing and so on. At least when I’ve talked to makers, they say those are reasons they prefer bridle
Interesting, your associations with different belt styles. The Silver Ostrich, despite the extremely high price, looks to me like something from a kid’s Cowboy outfit, just in time for Halloween… while woven leather belts — you see them as old-mannish — I find timeless, though I like the leather ones far more than the suede options. Woven suede: the strands don’t rest nicely, if you get what I mean.
The narrow, dressier belt styles you like, with decorative, silver buckles, remind me of Neil Tennant’s style back in the ’80s, which included the matching silver tipped shirt collars, always buttoned to the top, sans necktie, and a big, over-sized suit jacket. The music was genius, but the clothes can stay back in that era.
Simon, how do you maintain your belts? I have some leather belts where the leather has lost it’s colour from the constant bending. I was thinking of using a shoe cream but I am not sure whether the colour would rub off on the trousers.
If the leather is actually drying out, then yes cream can be good, but more on fine calf leathers. Thicker ones are like bags, better to use saddle soap or similar.
I haven’t tried using a coloured one, and would worry a little in the same way as you. But if you let the cream try sufficiently and then brush it down (as you would with shoes) it should be ok
What is your view on shirt stays/sock. It is better at providing a neat tuck? Do they look good?
You mean the things that connect your shirt to your socks? No they’re horrible, fussy and you don’t need them
I agree with Simon. Avoid shirt stays like the plague.
Hi Simon
Very timely for as I’ve just lost my 30yr old oak bark tanned belt
I’m surprised you tend towards a narrow belt for jeans. The belt loops tend to be 40mm so imho it seems to me that narrow belts just look poor fitting when threaded through such a wide belt loops tend?
Andrew
See above in the comments for more on this Andrew….
Hi Simon, can I ask what colour belt you wear with black jeans and Colour 8 cordovan? Do you still go for a dark brown, despite the colour of the jeans?
Yes, but it is very dark brown. I also often just don’t wear a belt – often when the very slight difference annoys me!
Hi Simon, this is a really helpful article. Surprisingly, until reading this article, I thought the belt and shoe materials didn’t need to match as long as the colours aligned well. Perhaps I should start looking for a dark brown leather belt.
Also, in most of the photos where I’ve seen you wearing Alden cordovan loafers, you paired them with the black alligator belt from Rubato. Have you recently changed your mind?
Many thanks,
Jack
I have done both, it’s true. I recently settled more on dark brown, but I often go without as well…
Is not wearing a belt with tailored trousers like linen and flannel a fashion mistake or can it be done to dress down shirt and trousers?
It’s certainly not a fashion mistake Ayush, it’s just a different style. A little more casual too, but mostly a different style
Sid Mashburn sells some excellent narrow belts.
Simon
Firstly – love PS – has been a helpful ‘advisor’ over the past 10+ years. Well done!
Secondly on belts, why is there so little production of canvas/woven ones in colours and stripes – like some military styles? You didn’t reference them – don’t you like them? They are both sharp, chic and less boring than plain leather. Drakes did a great run last year but they sold out in no time (even though expensive!).
What are your thoughts on this style, and where would you source them?
BW
Mark
Lovely to hear Mark.
I’m surprised you think there aren’t many of those around, I’m sure I see them. Perhaps at more preppy places in the US?
I don’t like them that much myself, so I don’t look for them much. Personally I don’t want bright or contrasting stripes like that on my belt – but it is also of course a style thing. It fits better with the Drake’s aesthetic that is more playful and strongly coloured
Wow, love those Rubato belts. I’ve always liked thinner belts, my leather belts are Trafalgar ones at 30mm (1.18 inches) but honestly I wish they were just 1 inch. Thanks for the reccomendations.
Pleasure Joe
Hello Simon,
As always, great article. I’m just writing to mention that I’m surprised you didn’t include Sartolane in the list of manufacturers mentioned.
For me, in terms of design, quality and price they are one of the best around. Plus, they have quite a few designs in a 1 inch width. You should check them out, I’m sure you’ll like them. I especially like the shape of their buckle, I think it’s one of the nicest I’ve seen so far.
Greetings from Spain.
Thank you. This isn’t a list of manufacturers, as I say in the piece. That will be separate
But thank you for the recommendation
Looking at the brand, Fran, there are some nice buckle shapes there and nice to have that width. I don’t think the leather and metal will be at the same quality level though as others we’ve mentioned, given they’re prices are lower than the cost prices for other makers featured
You are right, they are probably inferior in quality to the other brands mentioned. Still, in my humble opinion, they are great value for money. I think they offer designs very similar to those of other brands that for many of us are unattainable.
It is also true that all this is said by a university student in Philosophy, who nowadays can’t afford to pay such amounts in certain items…
In any case, thank you for your response. It’s nice the way you treat your readers, I wish more people acted like that.
Lovely to hear Fran.
Yes, the quality can absolutely be lower yet be great value for money
Stretch belts are the most comfortable option hands down. Then it’s just a matter of fitting your favorite buckle in.
Do you not find they’re less functional, in that they stretch when you move so they don’t hold the trousers in the right place necessarily?
Simon have you tried Awling belts ? They appear to be UK based and hand made there too and not too expensive. Many of their belts are 28mm (1 1/8″) in width which I feel is the absolute perfect/timeless width for most men – slim but not too slim. Any thoughts?
I haven’t tried them, no. I’d look to the points I mention here in assessing them, eg solid brass hardware etc
Is it better to have belts have to match if the outfit is casual, say if you’re wearing a sterling silver dark brown suede belt with dark brown leather Viberg boots?
It makes less of a difference if it’s a casual combination, and I wouldn’t worry about that one. There’s lots on this particular topic on this article
By my previous comment, I meant to have the TEXTURE match, suede casual belt with regular leather service boots.
Hi Simon,
I am planning to wear a pair of Real Mccoys navy chinos with a washed denim shirt. However I find it difficult to find a belt suited for this look. I do have a wide brown belt 1.5” wide but I find it too wide. Could you suggest other one?
Depends on the shoes really – what are you wearing there?
A pair of desert boots or chukka, dark brown
So I’d go for a brown belt then, and yours might be fine. If you’re looking for a slimmer one then the options are a bit limited (for a slimmer but also casual belt). Maybe a woven belt, from Rubato or similar?