Let’s start with the most basic guidelines. If you are wearing a leather belt, it should match your leather shoes, if you are wearing them. Black shoes should be paired with a black belt, brown with brown and tan with tan.
The shades need not match exactly, but they must be close. The brown may be a little paler or a little darker, but it should not be able to be described as tan.
The texture need not match exactly either. The belt can be crocodile, ostrich or brogued. Indeed, a belt that matches the shoes exactly (both black crocodile, for example) smacks of artifice. Somehow it suggests you are all crocodile skin underneath, and only these two bits are peaking out.
Suede belts and woven leather belts are naturally more casual, and that should be reflected in the suit or outfit they go with – linen suits, odd jackets, outfits without ties. But again, colours should be similar.
Brightly or unusually coloured belts can work well, particularly as one pop of colour on an otherwise plain outfit. However, the colour of the shoes and belt should always be different enough to be a real contrast.
Brown is not an effective contrast with black or tan. Try primaries – reds, yellows – with black shoes, as you would with socks. And more muted colours with brown – oranges, greens – again as you might with socks.
The belt should not be too wide or too narrow. The easiest way to gauge whether it is either of these is to compare it to the width of the belt loops it will go through. Jeans have wider loops and should have wider belts. They can also be heavier, to reflect the material. Worsted wools should have sleaker, slimmer belts. But again the width of the loops is your best guide.
The buckle should be obvious, at least with a suit. Slim, discrete and silver in colour (unless you wear much gold elsewhere). No logos.
Ribbon belts can work well, particularly with summer outfits (again, matching the weight of the belt to the weight of the material it ties together). Best not to combine them with every other preppy accessory, though.
Ties as belts may have been a favourite of Fred Astaire but they are hard to pull off with elegance. If he had started wearing neckties around his waist before he was universally considered stylish, I would bet a chunk of money that it would have seemed artificial.
Next week, the follow-up question: whether to wear a belt at all. You lucky things you.
4 Guest Comments »
1.
Okay – here’s a question. I have silver buckles on my belts. Is it okay to wear a silver buckle with a blazer that has brass buttons???
Comment by 30 days — June 20, 2008 #
2.
30 days,
Interesting conundrum. I think that metallic items, as they have a tendency to attract the eye, should be matching or as near as damnit to matching. In my room I have a chest on which sit items of ’silver’ or chrome tone – I will not allow brass anywhere near it because it seems to me one of those mixtures that looks ‘wrong’. A brass buckled belt would be better with your jacket. Then again, other writers and readers may disagree with such restriction and might encourage the silver buckle.
Comment by Winston Chesterfield — June 20, 2008 #
3.
I have a bit of a query. What kind of belt would one wear (if any, that is…) with sneakers, particularly if they’re white.
I’m with Winston when it comes to metallic items – I usually go like with like. Not doing so seems plain wrong, at least in my eyes.
Comment by Roderick Mallia — June 21, 2008 #
4.
Hi all – I agree with Winston on the metallic nature of buttons and buckles etc.
Roderick, I think white trainers free you up to wear almost any type of belt. I would avoid anything too formal, smart and clean (the kind of belts I was advocating above) but anything else could work, in any colour – look to the rest of your outfit for a match or harmony.
Comment by Simon Crompton — June 22, 2008 #
Guest comments contd:
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Thank you Simon. I usually give colourful, non-leather belts a go, normally choosing a colour that is present in the detailing of the trainer. But somehow, the white trainers seem to be ‘detached’ from the rest of the outfit. I find that I can’t quite pull it off well.
Comment by Roderick Mallia — June 22, 2008 #
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Pingback by How to Choose the Right Belt…Just in Case You Didn’t Know at invisible blog — June 25, 2008 #
I have a question about my suit for a wedding I am going to on January 3rd…
I have a black, slim cut 3 button suit and a tan organgeish belt/shoes combiniation. I feel like it makes me pop a little bit and is similar to how people dressed when I lived in Italy. My parents think that it looks tacky and that I should go with all black. They say that all the websites they read tell them I would look like an informal mess.
I just think they don’t get young/European styles. What is your take on it?
Skynelmondo,
I’m afraid I have to agree with your parents on this one. While the combination may be a funky one, it is not the sort of thing best suited to a wedding. A cocktail evening, perhaps, or other party at night, but not a wedding.
Generally on the wedding outfit, if it is during the day I would also recommend a paler suit if possible. Black is hard not to look funereal during the day.
You never know, that paler suit might go more harmoniously with your orange (tan?) shoes as well.
Simon
A question about matching. I recently bought a pair of blue suede Chukkas. Now I am wondering which Colour belt would match it. I am thinking that a blue suede belt would be to much? What would You suggest? I am wearing the shoes with taupe Incotex chinos and a blue jacket
Yes, certainly don’t match it Frank. To be honest, the shoes are so unusual that any modest belt should be fine
Hi Simon:
I have got CJ double monk in brown and I try to choose a belt to match with it, I think the belt I have got is darker than CJ’s brown. Is it fine? I’m going to a formal dinner party, will this combination be appropriate ?
Thanks
Andy
Hi Andy,
As long as the brown is fairly close, you should be fine.
As to the dinner party, I’m afraid it entirely depends on the host and social group. For some such dinners a jacket and tie would be required (and black shoes would probably be better). For others, just turning up in a jacket would seem too formal!
Simon
Thanks Simon. I think my CJ is more like the slight shinning brown due to the polish. The belt is matte dark brown. They are not that close sometimes depends on the differnt lights. However the difference is not like dark brown and tan.
Andy
Another question, Simon.
Do you think dark brown belts go well with chocolate brown CJ? i think my belt is in dark brown, and Cj is in Dark Brown Burnished Calf. My belt is definitely darker than my shoes.
Regards
Andy
As long as they’re not completely different browns it will be fine Andy
Hi, Simon,
I have got a question about combination od suede belts and calf shoes for informal ocasions: 1. would black suede belt and black calf shoes be OK ? 2. would navy blue suede belt be OK for navy blue chinos or jeans and black calf trainers ?
What is your take on it?
Hey,
I can see what you’re doing in both situations, and depending on the specific tones, I think it should work yes.
Simon
My favourite belt brand is Elliot Rhodes – they produce luxury quality belts in leather and exotic skins. They have a really fab interchangeable system where you can change your buckles around whenever you like! They have specialists in store that help you choose a style and measure/cut it to your size there and then! I’d definitely recommend checking them out…
http://www.elliotrhodes.com
“If you are wearing a leather belt, it should match your leather shoes”
__________
Hi Simon, this is my first time to comment on your blog so I should begin by saying that I find PS to be fantastic.
Having read the Matching Belt & Shoes rule before, I’ve often wondered ‘why?’ I’d be curious to hear your typically enlightening insight behind this axiom of habillement.
Merci beaucoup, Ro.
Simon, would you recommend wearing a suede belt with suede shoes, or would that be too matchy matchy? If not, what use would one have for a brown suede belt?
Hi Martin,
I would generally avoid a suede belt that was exactly the same colour as the suede shoes it was worn with, but this is generally only a problem the more the belt stands out. So a suede belt will likely stand out more than a leather one, and the lighter or brighter the colour, the more it will stand out again. If you have a dark brown leather belt with dark brown leather shoes, people are unlikely to notice. But pale suede and pale suede will certainly stand out.
A brown suede belt could be worn with brown leather shoes, or vice versa, to avoid being too similar. Also, a woven suede or leather belt would be another way to separate it from the shoes.
S
Hi Simon,
I’ve recently bought a pair of (dark-ish) olive suede loafers which I find surprisingly versatile and subtle (own any?). My question is, would you ever wear a brown belt with those? Thank you
I don’t, know, but have thought about it for some chukka boots. And yes I would wear a brown belt – perhaps try to keep them around the same darkness though
My thoughts exactly. Thanks!
For a black belt- what would be a good go to brand at the mid price level? I got one on the high street few months ago and looks very fatigue already. Fair to add most of my trousers are worn without belt anyway, so it wasn’t used extensively. I’m looking for quality without any any names on the buckle etc.
hi simon.
Am looking at a belt to go with some straight leg chinos (khaki/olive/navy).
I currently only own a brown suede/canvas one which goes well with polos and t-shirts. I mostly wear brown suede/calf loafers.
Considering the below:
1) https://goodscph.com/collections/andersons/products/braided-suede-belt-dark-brown
2) https://goodscph.com/collections/andersons/products/braided-leather-belt-brown
3) https://goodscph.com/collections/andersons/products/suede-belt-dark-brown-1
If you could get two, which would they be and in which order would you consider the purchases? Many thanks!
Hi Shem,
I’d probably go with the second two, as it sounds like the first one might overlap with your existing suede/canvas one in terms of when and where you would use it. Is that fair?
Thanks Simon would you say there is a difference in formality between the two which you would pick?
The plain leather will usually be more formal than the woven
Simon,
I have a belt with a brass plaque buckle that I wear occasionally to work (not with suits, but with relaxed outfits, such as chinos and a sports coat). I’m inclined to let the brass tarnish and develop a patina; shining it constantly seems a bit finicky. Do you shine your metal buckles?
No I don’t, and prefer them (indeed, almost all metals) when they tarnish. Let it tarnish and see how you like the look
I’m going in for a Dent’s Reversible Leather Belt, a snip at £25 in Brown/Black in size 43-45″ It has a unique Clip Buckle.
Can’t go wrong with Dent’s surely?
Thanks
Lindsay
What colour of belt should a person wear with burgundy shoes? Would burgundy belts work?
Some articles also suggest that for unusual shoe colours a person should match the colour of his belt to the trousers. What would be your opinion on it?
Thanks!
Yes, you probably want something fairly anonymous, rather than looking like you’ve matched the shoes – perhaps black or very dark brown, or something close to the trousers
So a shade of burgundy a bit darket or lighter than the colour of shoe work?
Also Simon i have read your article on sprezzatura and one thing you have written over there was nothing in your outfit should be too loud so that eyes run seamlessly back towards your face, and so in that context i wanted to ask that would you burgundy shoe to be quite loud if the rest of my outfit is fairly neutral?
Thanks!
It probably won’t be too loud, no, but I think that’s a judgement you have to make for yourself. That’s how you learn
When worn, what’s the appropriate length for the loose end of the belt (put differently, how much excess belt should extend from the buckle? Thanks in advance.
It doesn’t make a big difference really – you just want something that isn’t noticeable or oddly short or long (unless you’re actually aiming for a particular look in having it rather long). That normally means around 3-5 inches, but as I said it’s not a big thing
Hi Simon – I am looking to pick up a black alligator belt to wear with a dark suit (charcoal or navy) and black captoes. Do you consider either a glazed (shinier) or matte finish on the belt to be more appropriate for this use? Or does it really just come down to personal preference?
Many thanks!
Mostly personal preference, but if you’re in any doubt go for a matte finish. You’re unlikely to regret that, and of course it’s not a cheap purchase. You can also have that patinated later if you wanted
Hi Mr. Crompton, what belt would you suggest to wear with color 8 shell cordovan shoes? Is same leather belt too much? Thank you
Hey Dave,
No, a matching belt is certainly not too much – it’s a pretty dark colour after all. I actually find I don’t mind a dark-brown leather with color 8 shell as well, particularly something like a bridle leather. Even black can be good if the color is really dark.
“Somehow it suggests you are all crocodile skin underneath, and only these two bits are peaking out.”
This is one of the great lines on this website.
With black shoes would you gool for a black belt or maybe something in burgundy?
Black