A tonal exercise in 14 looks

Monday, October 7th 2024
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One of the things that first attracted me to Rubato as a brand was their style: that particular mix of laid-back Ivy and tonal Scandinavian (ref. our five casual paradigms). It managed to feel refreshing yet familiar. 

Style is more important to the value of these brands that some realise. Yes, you want the highest quality, at the best price, in a fit that flatters. But if you also identify with the brand's style - as communicated through their imagery - it gives you confidence in things like the shades of colours they pick, the specific materials, and gives you the confidence to try something new, because you trust their style. 

With Rubato, I always thought this was particularly well communicated through their flat-lays, like the ones below. They have a consistency that makes them easily digestible, and the whole collection feels like an exercise in colour combinations. 

So that’s what I’ve turned them into. I know this wasn't how they were intended but I think the guys will forgive me.

I’ve taken 14 of their historic looks and rearranged them to create an order that feels logical and progressive, changing one element each time to alter the effect. It’s like trying to put together an outfit in the morning, swapping one thing each time until you get the look you want. 

Let’s begin with an exploration of wearing black, given so many readers ask about it. 

Look 1, above, reminds me that while black and white can work together, it does help if the white is ecru, off-white. Everything here apart from the jeans is black - knit, belt, shoes - so there's no relief elsewhere, and the ecru rather than optical white turns it into an elegant outfit rather than a flash one. 

Look 2: The same as Look 1, but with a tiny dash of interest in the brown scarf. Nice option to have.

Look 3 exchanges the cream trousers for khaki. This reminds me how effective khaki and black can be together - something I often forget when I’m trying to find things to go with my black jackets, for example. 

Significantly, this look is less striking than the first two because the contrast between top and bottom has been reduced. A good option if the others were too showy for you (or for the occasion). 

Look 4 flips the top and bottom. Now we have a beige/light brown layer on top and black jeans on the bottom. Works just as well. 

I must say, it is easier doing these combinations without the additional variable of a shirt, as you’d have with tailoring. The more variables there are the more complicated it gets. Though of course that has its own satisfaction too.

For Look 5 the colour has all gone and it’s just black. This look also won’t be for everyone, but I think it’s a good reminder that having everything in black (and it’s pretty much only possible in that colour) is a cool alternative, particularly for the evening. 

Note the amount of interest going on in the layers and textures: knits layered on top of knits and matte wool contrasting with shiny belt and shoes. 

Look 6 is a summer version of Look 5. Less going on, and I think having that contrast of the belt and its brass buckle is helpful. I might tuck, or at least semi-tuck. 

Now take that all black, and add navy over the top. Black and blue are apparently not meant to mix, but if the blue is a really dark navy, it can be very effective. See me wearing something very similar here

This look will be even nicer as the black jeans wear and fade, making them less of a stark block and adding some textural interest. But we’re necessarily playing with new clothes here. 

OK, so now let’s keep the black belt and shoes, but make everything else navy. For Look 8 it’s a navy knit on top and dark-indigo jeans, and even the scarf at the neck is a navy spot (I think). 

All navy is, of course, a great option for the guy that likes the full-tonal look but finds all-black to be too redolent of bikers, gangsters, fashion students or indeed mime artists. 

The Rubato guys really do like all-navy. Here’s the same look but with a shirt and dress chinos, rather than a knit and jeans. Nice step up the formality scale. 

Look 10 is a casual combination of 8 and 9. Shirt but untucked, jeans, and canvas shoes. Not sure I’d do the scarf with that combination but hey, we can’t agree on everything. That would be dull. 

All-navy again. What’s the point of all this? Well, Look 11 has brown-suede shoes rather than black. And I feel like brown suede is more in the wheelhouse of most PS readers than black with looks like these. 

So yes, brown suede shoes are a more subtle option. A brown-suede belt would be nice too. Always helps if the brown is relatively dark. 

And here’s the classic combination, the PS reader’s happy place: navy on top, cream on the bottom, brown suede accessories.

So elegant, so refined, and a lot less trad when it’s done with knitwear and jeans rather than a blazer and flannels. 

There are several different directions we could go from here, but I’ll suggest two quick ones, as the list is getting pretty long. Maybe we need a follow-up that brings in more browns and greens. 

Anyway, Look 13 is telling you that if you want to add another colour, a lighter shade of blue can be effective. In fact, it’s a really good way to wear things like sky blue, particularly if you’re in a country like England where it’s rarely sunny enough to justify a brightly-coloured knit all day. 

And the other thing I’ll say is that tonal looks obviously don’t have to be black or navy. 

Look 14 shows that beige and its associated colours can be nice too. I like wearing something very similar (stolen from Alessandro Squarzi - penultimate picture here) just with brown-suede shoes and belt. It’s sort of a showy look, but only a little. Also quite Cucinelli, but more refined.

I hope there’s something for you in this casual chic collection. Rather like the ‘Which office’ articles, I feel like there will be, but it won’t be everything. You gotta pick your place and your personality. 

All clothes from Rubato except the Belgian Loafers. AtempoRubato.com

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Peter

I’m sure the guys will more than forgive you, Simon! I suspect they’ll be thanking you.

Daniel

I really like Rubatos style, but I do not like these flat-lays. Even more than me, my credit card does not like them.

PS: I need the navy Work Shirt

Erik

Very nice analysis on color combinations, and it will certainly make me try black a bit more.

Out of pure curiosity: have you warmed up to wearing the collared knits featured here, and in that case, do you embrace the double-collar look with a shirt, or style them with a t-shirt?

Lars

You know, I think you really get what Rubato is all about. It’s so easy to throw together an outfit from their stuff, whether it’s for day or night, and feel totally confident and stylish. And Brycelands is another brand that’s like that for me. I can mix and match pieces from different seasons and it all just works.

Dr Peter

An excellent piece, Simon. I like all of your suggestions, although I might go with some of them more often for my own dressing.

One thought: I have discovered that the various shades of red and pink — there are very many — combine with black, blue, ecru, cream, khaki and white in interesting and striking ways. For example, a dark red or maroon shirt goes nicely with a black or dark blue jacket. Gray flannels go beautifully with different shades of red, and especially, pink. This goes for trousers as well as jackets. Care must be exercised, so that the specific shade of red or pink does not make the whole effect too garish. But that’s part of the fun, isn’t it?

And if we consider patterns (checks, stripes, paisleys) for shirts, scarves or pocket squares in which red or pink is the major colour, the possibilities are infinite. But that’s another story!

John Bryan Hopkins

I read this site every day. For years now.
Today you posted something I really relate to. Most of the time I read about clothes I would never own or have made. The clothes in today’s post are simple, elegant, and easy. I get the whole vibe. I would like to see myself wearing these outfits often.
Maybe it’s because the ‘model’ does not exist in most photos. I have this inkling its because these outfits are what I would really wear and not aspire to wear. I know all these clothes are on the high end but I actually own many pieces that strongly resemble to these looks.
For the first time in a long time I walked into my closet and envisioned an outfit because of an article I just read.
So good for you!

Isaac

I think Rubato is a great brand and the outfits are nice but, intentionally or not, this does just seem like a full on advertorial

Isaac

I actually agree that the writing comes off as largely dissociated, and more just about combinations etc.

I think it’s more just the format of having an article that exclusively focuses on 14 photos of outfits all from the same brand. Might have been helpful to try include similar colour combos from other brands or maybe try your own take on flat-lays (appreciate might not necessarily be possible)

Alex

I don’t agree with Isaac. You explained at the start why you chose one brand (consistency in range and ability to subtly vary the items which could not have been done so easily with multiple brands). You have not named the products or given prices.

You’ve always been clear these guys are your friends, and it’s also as clear you genuinely admire their clothing.

So it would be odd to exclude them from coverage because of the friendship. Otherwise you would just have to cover people you don’t like!

Martin

I’m a bit with Isaac on this, as these were exactly my thoughts when I read the article.
Given, as you say, the piece is not about products but about color combinations, you could perhaps have used garments from a variety of sources.

CCA

Isn’t that the challenge with writing a popular blog rather than just taking XX images from the same brand. I would have thought it would have been interesting if you would have included more than one brand. There are quite some brands in the same price range, with the same love for Japanese fabrics.

CCA

I understand Simon. It is just me that wants to see more RMC 🙂

O.

Thanks Isaac, I had exactly the same thought.

Tristan

Brilliant display of deep understanding of style and refined knowledge.This piece reminded me of my rather old, gold standard textbooks, with such exquisite precision and humour.
Cannot wait to hear more about your next outerwear garment though… !
Thanks for sharing. Loved every second of it.

Scott

This is a fantastic article that requires me to reread it several times and study these outfits carefully, particularly the use of navy. There’s a lot of excellent information and ideas here applicable to all areas of being simply well dressed.

Joners

simon,
thank you for that great demonstration.
i don’t have jeans, so I wear navy chinos with my navy John Smedley long sleeve. To me that’s a quick choice and seems natural. I would add a contrasting bandana to that.

Matt

I was big fan of Rubato knitwear and chinos and always have some of these items in heavy rotation.
However, the eye-watering price hikes they implemented for non-EU customers earlier this year have significantly dampened my enthusiasm, taking Rubato well past the point at which I consider them to represent good value for money (I had a similar experience with Drakes a few years ago).
I guess they’ve evidently priced the loss of customers like me into their business model and if it works for them then great, but it disappointing nonetheless when you feel like you’ve been slightly jilted by a brand you used to love.

JSB

Hi Matt,

I share your sentiment but I thought I might add that I think some of that hike is to include for customs for importing which is now included in the web price for non-EU customers. As I found out for myself, that Customs Duty in the UK is not insignificant.

Lawrence S

This seems plausible. From my standpoint, their prices including delivery to Germany went slightly down, not up. This happened when they partnered with a third party company to take care of shipping.

Matt

Thanks JSB. Yes, that’s true to some extent, although the new price is still significantly higher than what you would have previously paid for the same item plus UK import duties.
It’s even worse for American customers though – they are being charged the inflated non-EU price even though their customs law allow the import of up to $800 dollars of clothing duty free. That’s just a total rip-off and taints my view of the brand to some extent.

Lawrence S.

I understand your frustration, but it does not seem reasonable to blame a Swedish brand for UK import/customs/delivery costs. Within the EU, the prices remained the same but delivery is now free of charge, i.e. a net saving. How is that a rip-off?

Matt

Hi Lawrence. Apologies, the “rip-off” comment was specifically in reference to the fact that Rubato applied the non-EU price hike to US customers irrespective of the fact that they do not incur customs charges on imported clothing worth less than $800. In those instances, I assume that Rubato (or their shipping agent) is just pocketing the additional money.
A number of US Rubato customers who post on Style Forum contacted the company and flagged that the premise on which they were being charged extra was completely erroneous but the response was effectively “regardless, we’re doing it anyway”.
I’m a UK customer and this doesn’t impact me directly (although as I noted the price hike exceeds the cost of post-Brexit UK customs duties) but nevertheless it does effect my view of the brand.

Markus S

Hi JSB (and Jon and Matt),

Theoretically, there should be no difference. If I order a product from the UK (I’m based in Austria), I don’t have to pay UK VAT at 20%, but I do have to pay Austrian VAT at 20%. So in theory it should be a zero-sum game if the seller offers DDP, as Rubato does.

If DDP is not offered, it is more complicated. I found out that in such a case I have to pay quite high service fees to the delivery service to take care of the VAT issue and possibly an unjustified customs fee to the Austrian tax authorities, which you could get back, but it’s not worth the trouble. This is unfortunately the case with Colhay’s who do not offer DDP, but PS and Private White does.

So if you have to pay significantly higher prices for Rubato products, the reason could be one or more of the following:

+ Rubato has increased prices for their products, no matter where you are located, which appears to be the case.

+ Some companies charge differently depending on where you live. This is not so easy to find out because you often only get to the respective country web page. This can be hidden in the conversion rate.

+ You pay separately for the cost DDP because it is time-consuming for the seller and to offer such a service or the seller hires somebody externally to take care of this issue. This shouldn’t be an issue for large companies, but it probably is for a small company like Rubato.

Markus S

For a solution look to Rivet & Hide. This is their return policy for EU customers:

„As a result, taxes cannot be recovered by Rivet & Hide on any returned items. To help mitigate these losses, all refunds are processed minus 20% of the item’s purchase price.“

Markus S

If you are in the European Union, you will automatically be taken to Rivet & Hide’s European Union website, where prices are in euros. The policy is referred to in a large pop-up window, that cannot be overlooked, where you can click on a link for more details. When you are a first time customer, Rivet & Hide also writes you an email whether you have seen this policy and are sure to proceed with your purchase despite this issue. 

I am pretty sure this is not the case when you access the webpage in the U.K., so you would not see this policy (res only hidden in der GT&C).

Bogdan

As a US resident I agree with the negative comments about pricing. It is dishonest to charge prices that seem to include VAT and customs taxes when Rubato doesn’t pay either. The Rubato guys seem lovely in person, but I could never buy something from their website for this reason. Thank god for eBay

Kuba

I am not sure the issue of returns applies to Rubato Simon. The truth is that they offer 1 day deliver on their goods (it’s impossible for this to happen from Sweden). They are most likely shipping a large amount of stock to the UK and then manage the inventory onshore here. So returns are costing them only if goods go completely unsold in the UK (or another jurisdiction where they stock goods). Obviously would imagine this does not apply to PS as you are based in the UK and release goods in limited quantities so would find this approach more cumbersome than anything.

EL

Fully agreed Matt – eye-watering is right.

Jon

I’m afraid I agree with Matt. I ordered several items pre Brexit and I considered them great value. Post Brexit before the price hike yes the price went up after paying import duties etc but not to this degree. Sad really as I genuinely love their stuff and the style but they no longer make financial sense for me any longer.

Lawrence S.

Hi Jon,
It works both ways. I still order clothes from several U.K. brands, in spite of the additional costs of importing to the EU these days (to Germany in my case). The cost of doing so has crept, in some cases leapt, up significantly. Do I find post-Brexit customs charges reasonable or predictable? Not remotely. However I don’t attribute any blame to British retailers. I accept this is the administrative reality of import/export, and choose to buy a little less from the UK, and a little more from brands like Rubato (which as I mentioned, has become slightly more affordable over here).

Lawrence S.

Elsewhere in this thread I see some calls for more tonal browns and greens. Simon, I would be interested in your thoughts on the colour and versatility of Rubato’s new Officer Chino in dark green (available to me today for a total cost including delivery of €340) compared to the very same chino in dark brown (which cost me €368 i.e. 8% more, back in December 2023)?

PB

I don’t think anyone would grudge them price changes to account for standard costs of import/export. Issue here is that US never had customs duty for their stuff and that never changed. So a 30-50% hike citing customs is just disingenuous. Clearly they have country specific prices – so this was an explicit choice and not a byproduct of UK/EU changes. I would have readily accepted any transparent explanation like higher costs/inflation/shipping etc. But this leaves a very sour taste.

Jon

I hear you, naturally it will go both ways of course.

RKM

I think the favorable pricing might partially be driven by the Swedish Krona being exceptionally weak in relation to the Euro. As far as I know, Rubato is still based in Sweden.

Kev F

So much to think about here, Simon – very informative article. As so often you see new ideas but also confirm personal dislikes; the all black/navy combinations I would not tend to go for (seems slightly unimaginative?) but that black with khaki outfit has me definitely considering looking for something along those lines. I’ve put off buying black as it can appear to me to be a very solid block especially a top but the mid contrast with khaki is very interesting.
In terms of the comments made so far, I don’t see using one designer as an advert piece although I do think Rubato has a superb style – as others have mentioned you combine what you have or get the style you want along similar lines. Thank you anyway for an excellent and very useful set of ideas.

Erik

I must be honest that the excessive Rubato coverage is really starting to feel like sponsored content. It would be nice to see more coverage of other brands

Markus S

Simon,

I have to agree with Eric.

It might have been a few months since the last specific article on Rubato, but it’s almost always Rubato that you wear and recommend in your articles and nearly all of their products get featured.
I would appreciate it if you would introduce new brands for knitwear or shirts etc as you did with Colhay’s a few years ago or cover other brands that you just mentioned in passing.

I have no deeper insight, but Inis Meain, Johnstons of Elgin, Besnard, Rota, Drumohr, William Lockie, De Bonne Facture, Fedeli, Kreis Lederwaren come to mind.

Kind regards

Markus

Nick

Hi,

I in no way mean this as a criticism, but I do agree with the suggestion above. I don’t think a brand has to be new to receive coverage and it would be good to see a broader range covered here (I accept classic menswear has a finite pool). Eric Bompard is another name I could add. I does sometimes feel like there’s a menswear ‘crew’…
Nick

RKM

I think the Rubato coverage/mentions have been quite frequent in recent times (the belt article was very Rubato heavy) but that’s fine. I am a long-time reader and I think brands that align with the current PS style are heavily featured until PS and the brand no longer match that well. Other brands that have been going in and out of heavy coverage are Drake’s and Anderson and Sheppard. To me, it speaks more of the independence of PS. The way I see it, being independent means that you can have personal preferences, which might change, but that they are not that affected by who pays you or puts you on flow team.

Jasper Smit

Hello Simon, yes very cool. Great. Personally I like to wear tonal in the colour green.

Jay

Only recently have I discovered how nice off-white and black can be together. I had this mental block where I was afraid of looking like a checkerboard. But I’ve been slowly learning that something like Look 1 here can be really elegant.

Just want to chime in to say that I don’t agree with the folks above saying that this feels like an advertorial. In my mind, it’s like the Pink Heap piece that ran in July: taking a collection of related photos and mining them for inspiration. I love that kind of PS article. For what it’s worth.

Daniel

Are those crew neck pieces with pockets new?I don’t see them on Rubato’s site….

Daniel

Thanks, Simon!

Will

This is one of the most enjoyable articles to read, learn from, and interact with.

Well done Simon! Excited for the NY Pop-up!

Leif

Look 4, with beige top and black jeans is the most fashion forward, it’s the most eye-catching.
The reverse, dark top and light pants, is very common, it plays it too safe.
Ideally, I’d recommend 4 but not quite so contrasty: so, keep the beige top but rather than black jeans, go with charcoal, say light weight wool.

Leif

By the way, I understand you’re talking about the approach of a particular brand here, but I see these sorts of posts as nice “jumping off” points, starting points for broader discussions.

As another “by the way”, despite my part Swedish background, I’ve never quite understood this contemporary Scandinavian clothing style. It seems bland, rootless, uninspired. Similar to Scandinavian Modern furniture, which has seen a dreary revival for the past couple decades that won’t go away. At least the furniture, in its first go around was original.

Leif

I’ve been thinking this over.
There’ something about an outfit where not a single piece of clothing has pattern — you can feel its absence, like going through a day without coffee. The top piece in this article, the model in a beige sweater: the outfit is very nice, I guess you’d say “contemporary”, even “luxurious”, but it’s lacking. At least a subtle check or stripe on the shirt would fix this… but of course it would not be the look of this brand.

Navy sweater

The 2nd last look is the most relatable.

eric-c

I definitely find these style pieces helpful. This one motivated me to check out “Honing your style” from 2020 about how “you need to filter those things that work for you.” We try things and gradually settle on what “fits”.

> You gotta pick your place and your personality.

Yes, ultimately — otherwise it’s not our “personal” style. I also appreciate how the interplay of prompts like these plus our experimentation can lead to improvement. It’s kind of a dialectic. Thanks for the inspiration.

Look 11 — with navy knitwear, jeans and loafers — is closest to my go-to. It’s rainy and cool where I live, so I have to have my knitwear: crewnecks, shawl collar cardigans and the occasional scarf. I like the other looks too, especially when a lighter tone of blue is added to break up the monochrome. The only exception is the navy DB with black jeans. Not all of us can pull that off.

> Maybe we need a follow-up that brings in more browns and greens.

That would have my vote. I feel like many greens are hard to wear, but I’m drawn to colors in the muted olive/army and moss/sage ranges. Not so fond of emerald and mint. I like how certain greens pair with navy and gray. Very dark brown sweaters — chocolate/espresso — are the best.

Andrew B

Hi Simon – can the rubato standard lambs wool cardigans be worn under a tailored jacket? I have never seen one so I’m not sure about how heavy they are or the cut. Thanks, Andrew

MBB355

What are your thoughts on the new “sand” colorway?
https://www.atemporubato.com/products/standard-cardigan-in-sand
Is this close enough to cream to work with a cold-color capsule wardrobe? Or is it too brown/yellow? Thanks!

Fredrik

Great article Simon! very useful and inspiring – I don’t understand some of the critics at all, you like the brand and they make good stuff, so what! I don’t see any reason to include other brands at all, the way you do this, just makes it easy to get an overview. You have written about A&S, PVC, Alden, Anatomica and other brands many times over the years and there is no secret that you like Rubatos style and their make. I feel that you and Manish always feel honest about the brands and the quality in your writings – so this is a no brainer. I will of course raise my eyebrows if it pops-up articles every month about Balenciaga or other big fashion brands.
Have you tried Speciales knitwear? – I looks great on the homepage and I really like the style – but its always hard to judge from that. Are the make and quality similar to Rubato, the price is in the same range. So maybe it’s worth a try!

Fredrik

Thanks great to know! I really like the colours!

Jakob

I like the white canvas shoes, do you know where I can find them?

Liam

Interesting. I thought they were Asahi’s deck shoe on first glance. Didn’t even realise Doek did the deck style, they tend to stick with the court style. In any case, Asahi have a broader range of colours and are doing the best deck shoe out of the Japanese imo. Trunk have just picked them up.

J Crewless

A quick weigh-in on “Rubato-Gate.” These ideas that can surely be replicated with other brands.

Secondly, it’s SC’s blog. He is the Captain of the Vessel in both writing content and makers he prefers to showcase.

These can all be substituted.

Peter

Simon, this was a great article, and I’d love more like it — i.e., analyzing tonal combinations in casual clothes. Let me also echo the enthusiasm for a follow-up focused on browns. (You know: the kind of taupe etc. combinations that Saman Amel and Stoffa do so well.)
Speaking of which, what do you make of Rubato’s new tobacco color (e.g., https://www.atemporubato.com/products/standard-sportsman-in-tobacco)? Trying to imagine what I’d pair it with and how versatile it would be. Thanks so much.

Aj

Simon, what do you think of the Rubato natural color polo? I have a fawn crew neck from them, which I found useful so I’m now considering getting another one in a different color for some variety. I’m planning to pair it with their dark brown and khaki chinos

AJ

I was considering their polo in natural color – https://www.atemporubato.com/products/standard-sportsman-in-natural
I also really like their fawn, but since I already have a crewneck in that shade, I thought I’d try a different color for some variety. Do you think the natural would be as versatile as the fawn and pair well with their dark brown and dark khaki chinos?

Aj

Hmm that doesn’t sound as useful an option as the fawn. What about shale vs stone? Are they equally versatile?

Lawrence S
Thomas

Hi Simon, I’ll also chime in here that this did not read like an advert to me, and I found this to be one of the more practically useful articles you’ve done. I appreciate these progression posts. They really make me think differently about my own wardrobe. Thanks!

Mikkel

I’m very interested in hearing how you would fit in browns and greens, but even more: greys.
Of course grey wool trousers always look good but what’s your view on some of the grey knit rubato has instead of the navy or black top in picture 1,2,3 as an example.

Mikkel

That’s a very insightful reflection!
I think I’ve mistakenly used grey as an interchangeable alternative to navy (possible sparked by the notion that first two suits charcoal + navy, coats charcoal + navy etc etc.). And now that you mention it I fully agree that is perhaps not the case.
I’m trying to improve my knowledge of how to combine colours, so this guide is really helpful for me. Keeping it simple but knowing which colours goes with what

Alan

Obviously tastes and styles differ Simon but I’m surprised that you have shown all neutral, all black and all navy outfits in the past but grey on grey feels too stark for you. I quite like grey on grey, or grey and neutral, and haven’t found it too stark, providing you make up for the lack of colour with texture or pattern. One of my favourite combinations is a mid grey herringbone tweed jacket with charcoal flannels, sometimes worn with a white and light grey striped oxford or a black polo. On paper it sounds quite drab but when executed I haven’t found that to be the case.

W.A.

I think the 5 paradigms of casual clothing article should get a part 2. As someone mentioned in the comments of the original article, there are more paradigms than just 5 — and they excluded Scandinavian style from the Italian chic.
So, given how obviously (Eastern) Asian style has been ruling casual/streetwear (re-imagining well-known things with remarkably different silhouettes) for decades, the difference of African patterns/colour schemes/silhouettes, and your coverage of Rubato as a precisely Scandinavian thing, it might be the right time.

Paul

Interestingly I just noticed there is a lot more color in the latest Rubato releases with pink and orange knits!

Rob

To my mind this isn’t advertorial at all, but just very helpful to see how things go together.
I do like the Rubato look though. Whilst the knitwear doesn’t quite work for me, I like their shirts and have several of the officer chinos. They are great (and the slight issue they had with the stitching quality a couple of years ago seems to be resolved now).
I see they have a new dark green colour in the officer chinos. How do you think that could fit in with the arrangements you set out above?
Like the commentator above, I was quite (pleasantly) surprised to see them move to so much colour for the new season’s collection.

Rob

Apologies – I have just seen that someone has asked the same question above. Please do ignore.

James

I think these kinds of flat-lay examples are really helpful. I’ve been using the Stylebook app for several years, playing in the same way with my own closet during idle moments, and it’s really helped me get better at combining colors and textures and find new ways to use things. I know it’s helped me dress a lot better and avoid many bad purchases.

What I’m less good at, and flat-lays don’t communicate as well, is proportion and silhouette. Figuring out the effect of a slimmer or larger top or bottom, how items will combine together proportionally, what cut or style works best for me personally, is a challenge. I’ve learned some from observing women’s fashion, which plays with more extremes, but mostly it makes me realize how little I really understand. 

You’ve covered that some. But if you have any more thoughts in that direction for future articles, they will be appreciated.

Mikkel

Fully agree, that is an article I’d love to read!

I like close that don’t hug me (e.g I prefer the fit of Rubato officer chino over their jeans) but if I go for a loser fitting shirt as well, then it looks like I’m a kid in my fathers old clothes…
So some tips on how to mix and max silhouettes would be greatly appreciated

Andrew

agreed! great topic

Michael

Hi, Simon
Looking for a bit of advice from you.
For a pair of olive chinos paired with a black knit and some dark brown shoes, what colour of outerwear do you suggest? Also for shoes, black shoes would be better?
I am also thinking at another combination, black knit, a pair of beige chinos and a green M65. Another than that I am not able to find another suitable outerwear colour for this combinations.
I know ecru could work but depends on the weather and it is not very often worn around . So what do you think?

Michael

Yes, the M65 would be the outerwear. Thank you, Simon

Alex

To create a similar look, would the PS Navy Rugby be an effective substitute for the Rubato polo style top?

Lindsay McKee

Great combinations of colours. I suppose you could do similar with say, Smedley for knitwear and polos, Blackhorse Lane with the jeans variants that they put out, Crocketts for shoes and even tailored trousers. Begg for scarves. I’d like to see more articles like time…..immensely helpful!
The list goes on….

Lindsay McKee

Typo error.
Should be ,I’d like to see more articles like this….sorry.

Mikkel

Thank you so much for this super useful article Simon.
I’ve found myself visiting it very often and used it as recently as today to help me build an outfit that I find elegant and comfortable.

I think there’s a great opportunity for the gentlemen from Rubato to build a gallery of looks. I know the pictures are available at their instagram, however, they of course also post other content there.

I at least found this super useful and would highly appreciate more similar content!

Christopher

There’s something about look number 5 that really pulls me in, but it makes me wonder how realistic the application would be in terms of getting the two knit fabrics to lay correctly and not snag on each other creating unflattering drape (or lack there of). Simon, have you pulled off a knit on knit look before? Did you experience this issue at all?

Christopher

That’s what I was thinking. I decided to test the application and it worked much better with merino was the base layer.

Mikkel

Hi Simon,
I’m looking for tips on how to incorporate snuff suede into these types of looks.
As it’s a more eye catching colour I’ve been struggling.

Mikkel

Thank you 🤝
And also mid-blue instead of navy knitwear perhaps?
I’ve been contemplating if snuff will be more useful in a brown tonal look.
So ecru trousers, brown knitwear and snuff shoes perhaps 🤷🏼‍♂️

Jack Linney

This is a super helpful article. I’ve never avoided black the way I suspect a lot of us have, but I’ve not exactly embraced it, either, and have generally just paired it with navy or burgundies. This and other guides on black (of which there are a surprising number) have been very helpful. More generally, I have found these guides on applying color (and texture) to be the most practically useful.