Casual craft: How a Real McCoy’s leather jacket is made

Friday, October 18th 2024
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Casual clothing like jeans or a leather jacket require rather less craft than a bespoke jacket or shoes. There isn’t the same amount of precise handwork, or the visual engineering required to cut cloth perfectly around our imperfect bodies.

But that doesn’t mean there’s no craft, and often in discussions of casual clothing this gets ignored in favour of style or materials. We’ve covered it now and again - for example here with jeans - but I’d never seen much of it, so it was useful to see how Real McCoy’s makes its leather jackets, when we visited their worksop in Kobe.

Why should you care, I hear you ask? Maybe that’s just my paranoia, but I feel people sometimes glaze over at this kind of factory-visit story today. They were so popular back in the 2000s, when everyone became obsessed with heritage and craft; these days it’s easy to feel you’ve read them all before. 

I think you should care because making information like this gives you a deeper understanding of the clothes you wear. It means you appreciate why the jacket feels a certain way, or it reveals an aspect of it you’d never noticed. It’s richer as well as deeper. 

Something I hadn’t appreciated was how a well-made leather jacket uses different parts of the skin for different parts of a jacket, depending on the functionality required. 

So you want a thicker, solid piece for the chest, but a stretchier one for the back of the sleeve. Orientation is important too - the grain should run along the piece used for the back of the neck, for example, rather than across it. 

It's all quite reminiscent of tailoring, and how canvas is used on the bias in some places to create stretch, but straight in others to hold shape. 

And as with shoemaking, this selectivity in the leather makes the product disproportionately expensive. Not only are you ordering the finest raw material available, you’re only using select parts of it, so you might be using half as much of something that costs twice as much. 

The jackets we saw made were mostly horsehide models that McCoy’s is well known for. They were the first thing they started making (specifically, the A2, shown top) and have remained a signature since. 

All these jackets are made in a single workshop in the Kobe HQ, which we covered extensively here (it’s an amazing piece - worth a read). Very little production is done there, as the products are so diverse and Japan is traditionally very non-integrated, so it’s significant that this is the one thing entirely made on site.

The repairs are also done here. “That’s important with a leather jacket because you need to use the same stitch holes as you did with the original production. It weakens the piece too much otherwise,” Kent Tsujimoto told us. Kent, pictured above, is the son of the McCoy's founder and head of production. 

Companies like The Real McCoy’s deliberately recreate the quality of historic pieces, like those A2 flight jackets. But there’s always an interesting tension between the authentic techniques and better, modern ones. 

For example, the deerskin leather jackets that are pictured above have a different seam to the A2. Theirs are made by folding back the leather on either side, then taping the inside to reinforce it and sewing over the top. (Second image above). 

With the A2s, one piece of leather runs on top of the other, and only the top piece is turned back. This requires skiving (thinning the edge). “That’s part of the character of these jackets - we also use sewing machines from the 1930s to the same end,” says Kent. “Whether it was stronger or not, you wouldn’t want to change that.” (First image below.)

But other things are updated. The J24 biker jacket, for example, always had a problem with its pleated back. The bottom was secured with a single stitch, doubled back, and after a few years it would always split. So the McCoy’s model uses three stitches, but does them by hand on top of one another, so it still looks like a single stitch. (Second image below.)

That’s a tension we covered previously with jeans: Blackhorse Lane consciously updates its techniques to make stronger, cleaner-looking jeans, where most others just replicate traditional ones. 

Personally I’m not that fussed about the difference, as the way jeans age and start to fall apart, and then are repaired again is a big part of the charm. (I like Blackhorse for other reasons - style, its MTM.) But I can see the argument for modernising more with those panels of the leather jacket. 

In a lower room of the building we also met the McCoy’s chief pattern cutter. One of Rei Kawakubo’s right-hand men, who moved to Kobe to be nearer his family, he was interesting in a few different ways. 

For example, patterns have to be changed for modern styles and bodies in the same way as manufacturing. But the end product has to look essentially the same - so there is a similar tension there. 

The point that stuck out for me, however, was how hidden some historic production techniques can be. For example, it was only when the cutter took apart a particular US deck jacket that he realised some models had a layer of rayon on the inside, presumably for wind protection. 

“So we started incorporating that too,” says Kent. “It’s why you can hear a slightly rustling sound inside some of the vintage ones, where that layer has come loose.”

I’m not sure I’d ever wear a J24 jacket or an A2 - a sports leather jacket like the McCoy’s 30s model would be more my speed, and even then I've talked before about my vintage one and the qualms I have about it. 

But I would wear a deck jacket, and if I was going to buy one for this winter, it would likely be McCoy’s. In fact I did some styling for Clutch cafe last year in one (size 42, above). So if I do, this kind of information will deepen my appreciation of it. I hope for some readers out there, it does too. 

Remember, all brand articles can be found on the brand’s dedicated page. See the Brands homepage for a full list - the search field at the top is usually the best way to find a particular one. 

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Alex

With that reverse horse hide jacket you have, I can see why it would be difficult for others, particularly a black leather jacket, to get on to the roster.

Peter

Love the fit of those jeans you’re wearing in the factory – what’s the make/model?

Simon Crompton

Thank you. They’re 60s 501s – beautiful but not the most robust at that venerable age

Peter

Thanks Simon. Where might you direct someone looking for a similar fit off the rack? I love Clutch Cafe but the number of styles is dizzying. I’ve never quite got along with Blackhorse Lane’s cuts. The closest I’ve found so far might be Apc new standard. Many thanks

Simon Crompton

I did a post on my favourite jeans here which might help

Jeremia

Levi’s Vintage Clothing – 1966 cut
Resolute – 710
Fullcount – 1800-2

All jeans I mentioned above were based off 60s Levis and I thin has the same silhouette as Simon’s,

Simon Crompton

Thank you!

Alexander

I find it a shame with these high end leather jackets that their patterns are often slim and a bit long. I find that a leather jacket often looks best with enough room through the chest and arms and cut rather short. Only Bryceland’s do that as far as I know.

Simon Crompton

I think some other repro brands do that, though I’m not sure who off hand. Personally I love this length but then I’m taller and slimmer

Markus S

The Real McCoy‘s is a brand that PS made me aware of. Much of their styling does not appeal to me, especially the overt military articles with print on them. But there are others and I have bought several of those (jeans, chinos, sweatshirts both loopwheel and ballpark). The quality is just over the top.

J Crewless

These craftsmen are underappreciated. As a leather fan, they have my utmost respect

Stephen

Hi Simon,
I for one (and I don’t believe I’m the only one) find these articles informative and interesting, they also go some way to explaining the price point differential. Another interesting jackets is the Real McCoys ‘30S LEATHER SPORTS JACKET / FREEMAN (DEERSKIN)’.
I also like the Real McCoys deck jacket in both colours. A good jacket for the weekend Do you think navy or green is more versatile? Also can you remember what size you were wearing.
Thanks and please keep doing these technical articles.

Simon Crompton

Nice to hear Stephen.

I’m wearing a 42. I’d normally be a 40 but I found it too tight under the arms.

The navy will always be more versatile, but I’d be tempted by the green because it’s a little more unusual yet also very wearable

Stephen

Thank you Simon. Have a good weekend.

Lucas

My first comment on PS is to agree with this. Appreciate the look behind the scenes, and a lot of these visits make little lookbooks of their own

Tamaki

Thank you for the article, Simon. It really helps in appreciating the garments, especially when it is often so hard to see the details by the untrained eye.
I think you mentioned it before, but it really feels similar how the appreciation of art and the appreciation of well developed garments require, or at least benefits from, knowledge about their make

Aaaaaand it also helps when I have to explain to my fiance why I paid $2K+ on a leather jacket hahahaha

Stephen

Good point. Same here!

Paul H

Thanks for this insight into their manufacturing as I find TRM fascinating in a number of ways. They’re one of the few brands I genuinely look forward to updates from. While many of their items aren’t necessarily to my taste, I am fortunate to have a handful of their items and the quality is remarkable. They just “feel” better all in to me. I too have been patiently eyeing the N-1 and have an ongoing debate on Navy vs Khaki which is still undecided.
Clarification: I see a “green” deck jacket referenced in the above comments. Is this in reference to the N-1 or another model? I’m only aware of the N-1 in Navy and Khaki, so want to make sure I am not missing something tempting!

Simon Crompton

We mean the khaki, Paul

Matt L

Hi Simon. I would like it a lot if you could do a quick comparison between Real McCoy’s leather jacket against Himel Brothers? I think I’ve seen you try Himel’s suede blouson at some point? Do you know how the make quality differs against RMc?

Simon Crompton

I have a jacket from them yes, and sure I can try and do something. I don’t have a comparative piece from McCoys but I can look into the details

Matt L

Thanks Simon. Do you have any strong opinions on the Himel Bros jacket in general? Is the make good?

Simon Crompton

The make is good, yes. I really love it, the only thing I’m not entirely sure about is the collar. It’s not great with everything

Matt L

Thanks Simon.

Ronnie Pickering

I do like the N-1 as a style. Ended up with the Iron Heart version – a slightly different design (noticeably the pockets) which I prefer. It’s a well made jacket – I don’t know if I could easily tell if the Real McCoys is better made but they are close enough that my preferences on the style side win out. More controversial perhaps that I have an indigo version which is fading in all the interesting places. Of course it might look rubbish in 10 years…

J

i have the iron heart version as well. super warm and the alpaca wool mix is soft on the inside. The sleeves are far too long though. Bonus is that it has an inside pocket whereas I believe real mccoys do not.

Brian

I have the Iron Heart oiled whipcord N1 and it is superb. Sleeves are long because of the motorcycle heritage. Genuinely can’t fault it.

Robert M

I just came here to say my oiled Iron Heart N1 just came and of course I can’t yet say anything on how it wears, but I think it will be one of my most favourite things. And the very long sleeves are a blessing as IH is the only brand that makes them long enough for me.

Joners

For the deck jacket I believe they use alpaca. Is that softer than lambswool? I find the latter can be irritating.
the one thing about these period pieces is that they don’t have enough inside pockets . For carrying the stuff that we now deal with. Perhaps some compromise old be reached? When I travel I like to keep everything on the inside for security

Simon Crompton

Yes I think it is a bit softer.

Yes that’s an issue for historical reasons, but also with anything like this where there isn’t a traditional lining, as often putting an inside pocket on means showing that stitching on the outside

Jose

Loved this article. I’ve been eyeing their leather jackets for a few years now. I just don’t know that I would wear one enough to justify the price. I have a lovely suede jacket that I use way to infrequently already.

Jose

How warm is the deck jacket, by the way? Suitable for proper winters?

Andrew

It’s very warm. The Hells Angels used to wear them.

Andrew

I have a Real Mccoys deck jacket and it does the job and receives many compliments.

Gede

Hi. Simon, I am considering the déçu jacket but have trouble décidant between 40 and 42. Did you err as well or are you a firm 42, how tight does it feel on you (we have roughly the same size)? I heard navy fits tighter than the khaki version

Simon Crompton

I didn’t find a difference between the colours to be honest. I could have worn a 40, yes, I was a little on the fence. But it was a bit tight under the arms and the longer length on a 42 is better for me

Andy

Out of curiosity, what would you say is your favorite style of casual jacket in your wardrobe?

Simon Crompton

Probably a blouson

Pickford

I think this article raises a really important distinction in casual clothing, craft vs style. As someone who wears casual clothing almost exclusively, I have always veered towards investing in well crafted pieces that I know will last years, if not decades, due to the quality of materials and care taken in their construction.

Something like the RM Deck jacket referenced in the article is a great example. I think many people would balk at the cost and probably tell you they could find something similar for a fraction of the price. Stylistically they may be able to find cheaper alternatives, but the quality of the garment, its longevity will not be comparable. There is also the investment in the ethics of the brand. With the RM you know you are paying for a skilled crafts person’s labour and expertise, not a piece of fast fashion where you have no idea how it has been produced or who has made it.

joners

Simon
is there an archive of Real McCoy stuff? Some older pieces that come up are different from the latest offerings and it’s useful to see why changes were made. And of course the reassurance that a vintage piece really is Mccoy

Simon Crompton

You mean a place where you can see all the things they’ve made in the past? No there isn’t, not sure any brand has that

Neil Tang

Hi Simon,

What is this jacket 2 pictures from the bottom, with the shearling-like material in the collar and inside of the jacket? Thanks.

Simon Crompton

It’s the McCoy’s version of a US Navy N-1 deck jacket