I’ve admired the style of photographer Alex Natt – who takes most of the pictures for Permanent Style these days – for several years. He’s not the kind of person to talk about it much, and he certainly doesn’t post fit pics online, but to me his functional, easy-going style feels very relevant today.
Alex rarely wears tailoring, but when he does it’s in a relaxed manner with jeans and a shirt or T-shirt. He can dress up and does it well, but his default is the knits, hard-wearing jackets and either loafers or boots that he needs for shooting every day.
I asked Jamie Ferguson to shoot fellow photographer Alex (always a weird one) in a few different outfits to illustrate these points, and then spoke to Alex afterwards about his thoughts on clothes in general.
PS: What are you wearing in this first outfit?
Alex: That’s a hopsack double-breasted jacket from The Anthology. The material is from Standeven – I’m learning that I like slightly heavier fabrics, often with more texture, and a matte finish. It’s actually part of a suit but I rarely wear it that way. Still a navy suit is useful to have for weddings etc.
The weight is good, I can wear it three seasons. The Anthology cut is quite clean, a little close, but I wear it open like this most of the time.
What are the jeans?
They’re ‘66 501s – the cut is a little bit looser, straight with a nice leg twist. I don’t think jeans should be that clean a fit, they should be a little fucked up, a little bagged in the knees. It’s not really the point of denim.
I like the nineties vibe of wearing the jacket with jeans and a T-shirt. That’s not really my era (I was born in ‘94) but I watch a lot of TV and films from then. I like the red-carpet celeb look from the time too – people were dressing themselves and it was all a little messy, they were dressing themselves and weren’t over-styled. Have a look at @nightopenings.
Who’s on the T-shirt?
It’s Steve Miller. I like the music but it was more about the T-shirt, the design.
What makes a good design?
That’s a hard one. It’s hard to pin down, like taste in general I guess. Difficult to describe, yet all the sellers all gravitate towards the same designs, so it’s something in common. An interesting design, a distinctive design, original but not over the top. The faded colour here is great – a crisp new one wouldn’t be the same, and it’s nice with the overall blue shades.
This is more the kind of outfit I see you in every day when we’re shooting – practical, but still with some style.
Yeah, they’re all hard-wearing clothes – loose fits too, I like loose fits but it’s also comfortable and practical. The chinos are from Bryceland’s and I’ve had the cuffs let down – I originally had them hemmed too short so I just let them down recently.
The shirt was something you worked on with Jake [Wigham] right?
Yes it was a recreation of my favourite shirt, the one Michael Palin wore in a lot of his travel series. Big fit, big pockets, large enough to fit a passport and a mobile in. It’s a tough Thomas Mason oxford cloth. Jake made one for me and offers it made-to-order now.
I wear the same one with the jeans and jacket above too. It’s like a little capsule – everything goes together. I don’t have much space in my house so everything has to work together. It’s a decent, semi-formal look, something you could go anywhere with.
You wear a lot of short jackets with that kind of outfit right? Like Barbours, fishing vests.
Yes, that’s a little joke to myself often – how you can get away with wearing things like that when you’re working, when you’ve got a camera around your neck. They’re practical but I don’t wear them every day.
Where are the bags from?
The main one I carry everywhere is a Billingham bag, the bigger of the Hadley camera bags. I’ve always wanted one and I went for the most old-man colours – it’s very National Geographic.
Why the carabiner on the side?
I don’t really hang anything from it but it’s a good grab point, like when you’re trying to get the bag down from an aeroplane bin. The other bag is an Epperson Mountaineering tote.
Where was this jacket from?
It’s from Kim, Kimberley Lawton. It was my first piece of bespoke (the Anthology was made to measure) so it was a bit of a learning curve, but it was interesting being able to design everything myself.
I was a bit anxious it would be too structured, as that’s what Kim makes, but the inspiration was the old 67 Ralph Lauren jacket, which was an English one, quite heavy and padded.
I think if you’re going to have something made, you should just go for what you want. This is a grey herringbone, sure, but it’s also kind of crazy, with that extended collar and really big bellows pockets. It’s what I really wanted. I like functional pockets – my next commission is a kind of fawn-coloured corduroy also with big pockets.
Shoe-wise it’s usually casual boots or loafers right?
Yeah, these are Crockett & Jones loafers, bought at the factory shop [Alex grew up in Northampton and still does regular work there]. The brown ones are an Alden special make-up in a soft, tumbled calf. I got those from Parlour in Korea last year.
If it’s not loafers then it’ll be a boot, like a Danner hiking one or a Moonstar All-Weather. Also white deck shoes or a New Balance 990. All very functional and casual. I need to be able to jump on things, or be sprawled on the ground getting a shot.
Actually another pair of boots is on my wishlist – an LL Bean hunting boot, or I saw a vintage pair of buckled hunting boots on eBay recently. Love that shot of Harrison Ford on his deck in LL Beans (above).
What else is on your eBay wish list?
There’s a fifties fireman jacket on there – it’ll be itchy but probably but very cool. I like a clip jacket. Also a reversible Patagonia fleece, Synchilla or Glissade in some kind of wacky colour. I’d like one of those old Coach bucket bags too.
This is a shorter jacket so I assume it functions in the same way as the wax ones or hunting ones – but it’s an old Lee right?
Yes a seventies one, nice and short. With the trousers too it’s all the same tones as the first outfit really – blues, greys, navy. You could wear this T-shirt with the blazer, or the oxford shirt with this combination.
What are the trousers?
They’re vintage French workwear ones, 1960s or so, bought at Front in New York. They’re my favourite trousers – the fit is so good, they’re really comfortable, a single pleat, a little bit workweary but subtle and they work with a loafer or a boot. The cloth has aged really nicely too – it’s tough and has some texture to it.
The T-shirt is another graphic design. I liked the drawing, the shading. And it was from my birth year – some kind of parent-teacher association. Events or associations like this often do good designs – New York marathons, beer adverts, travel souvenirs. The colour and the shape has to be good, but after that it’s about the design rather than what it’s about.
I guess the cap is a souvenir in that way too – from that record bar in Korea
Yes exactly. I’m particular about the shape, the crown height etc, but then it’s just a nice souvenir. I think sometimes people can take this too seriously, it’s good to have a little fun with a cap, a bag. Though having said that, I have a bunch of caps at home that I don’t wear – they’re sitting in a pile on top of my desk lamp.
Why do you like tinted lenses?
These are from Moscot. I think I like the brown tint because it warms up the misery of an average London day. How you can go about wearing blue lenses when London is so grey already is beyond me.
Who are your other inspirations?
A lot of old photographers; Andy Spade; Eric Clapton, before he bought Cordings and went a bit weird; Fran Leibowitz.
A lot of menswear can be a bit contrived, a bit too clean and unreal. I tend to like people that look like they live in their clothes, and of course it suits me as I spend so much time dragging stuff around.
Outfit 1:
- Made to measure hopsack jacket from The Anthology (Standeven 27033)
- ‘66 red-line Levi’s 501s, from Front General vintage
- Tory Leather belt from Front General
- Vintage T-shirt
- Moscot sunglasses with ‘smoke’ tinted lenses
- Crockett & Jones calf tassel loafers
- Automatic Omega watch (“simple and basic – I’m not a watch guy, I like them but I can’t afford them”)
Outfit 2:
- ‘Palin’ shirt from Jake’s shirts
- Permanent Style cotton jumper
- Bryceland’s chinos
- Alden penny loafers in tumbled calf
- Vintage cap
- Billingham ‘Hadley’ pro camera bag
- Epperson Mountaineering tote
Outfit 3:
- Bespoke tweed jacket from Lawton
- Cashmere cable-knit jumper from Bryceland’s
- All else as above
Outfit 4:
- Vintage seventies Lee denim jacket
- Vintage printed T-shirt
- Vintage French workwear trousers
- Cap from Kompakt bar, Seoul
- All else as above
Some other photos of Alex over the years…
Excellent! Alex is totally one of those people that knows what they like and looks good in it!
Hello Alex. Thanks for appearing here. Simple yet classic casual styles mixed with a little tailoring here and there. 👍
Really loved the inspirations part of that interview, also with the included photos.
Cheers!
One thing I always find impressive is when profiles show the ability to wear a more relaxed fit whilst keeping it stylish (The chinos and Jake shirt being my personal favourite). I think part of the reason that a lot of people (myself included) end up looking too “clean” (or potentially sterile) is that there can be a big gulf between playing it safe and looking stylish but lived in – you don’t want to fall into the chasm of looking like someone who’s tried and failed to dress like a lookbook.
Love the herringbone tweed blazer based on that classic RL67 model. I am currently on the vintage hunt at present for one just like that as it works well in so many different contexts.
He looks great. I wonder if one of the reasons these more relaxed fits feel cool is the accessories – the sunglasses, caps. The big chinos and button downs on their own could be a little old fashioned, but he makes them look contemporary
Very good observation Peter
It didn’t occur to me when reading the article but now that I’ve read your comment, I think you are correct. All items in the looks are working together without being a gimmick or trying too hard.
With respect, I do think that all his outfits are a bit gimmicky. He clearly cares about his clothes and enjoys dressing welll so nothing negative there but every outfit has some unusual aspects to it and it gives me the impression that those are ar least partly intended to draw a little bit of attention from others. Or showcase originality. Or both. Again, I do not think this is a bad thing, quite normal and a lot better than not caring, but certainly a little bit gimmicky in my view. I agree that he succeeds in looking contemporary wearing vintage or vintage inspired pieces. Great article as always
Another great “how to dress like” article. I love ‘em.
That’s a lovely tweed jacket. It’s casual and yet does wonders. When I scrolled down and looked at the pictures, my first instinct (and the photo shows Alex with his arms crossed – which makes sense as the article’s more about him and the way he wears his clothes than the clothes as the clothes) was why not finish what the shoulders and chest have started so fabulously – drop the second button and take the shape lower?
Then the photo of Alex is followed by a photo of Ralph – who has done just that. Based on things I’ve seen from Lawton, I imagine it’s their instinct to follow through too. Alex mentioned that with bespoke you should ‘just go for what you want’. Given he was so clearly inspired by the picture of Ralph – from the material to the pockets to the asymmetry up top – why did he / you (if he’s reading) choose to shorten the lapels and add the second button? And why go with Lawton if you’re going to diverge in that particular way? I can’t imagine it’s the casual-ness – Ralph showed it worked, the pockets and the material suggest casual-ness, the way Alex wears it suggests too.
I should say that I’m not asking idly. I have a Huntsman jacket in the same material (but without the outside pockets or the asymmetry) – I wear it both semi-formally (e.g. to church) and casually (often – on walks in the forest, on picnics, to dinners with friends where I may be called upon to play with the dogs or the children beforehand, even to the supermarket). I’ve assumed that, while striking, it can be as informal as I like (one advantage of going bespoke is that the shoulder pads don’t stick out, which is what I always imagines makes a structured suit look uncomfortable / formal).
I’ve also considered going to Lawton. To support somebody starting out and trying something slightly different, and also as a slight variation (I love my Huntsman jackets and suits – but with nearly a dozen of them in use, I wonder whether it would be nice to have a slightly different cut in the wardrobe – I imagine Lawton would make me something more dramatic for when I want to make an impression). How was the experience? If I went, I’d want Kimberley to go for what she wanted me to wear and I’d want her to push back on my thoughts a bit (at Huntsman, they often do – or used to – now I go in with a clear idea of when I’m going to wear something and a rough idea of what I’m going to wear it with and some pictures of something I like that I know they’ll ignore and they send me out with something I’ll wear more than the last thing I bought) – would she do that?
This guy has nearly a dozen Huntsman suits? Simon I think you need to do a reader profile on him!
I would go and have a consultation with Kimberley and talk through what you want. If you want something in the house style and some drama, I’m sure she would be delighted to guide you, you’ll just need to trust in her a little. Otherwise she will listen and make something that reflects your needs. I’ve been on that journey a couple of times, always starting with her house style and dialling it up from there. I’m very happy with the results.
“Eric Clapton, before he bought Cordings and went a bit weird”. Clapton was Cording’s best customer when approached by the management to save the brand in 2003. Under his ownership, Cordings has returned succesfully to its traditional roots. Clapton introduced the women’s range and contributes creatively to Cording’s designs. If that seems a “bit weird” to Alex, so be it!
Um, the comment was about Clapton himself Kent, not Cordings or what he did there
Really? Alex’s comment suggested that Clapton went “a bit weird” after buying Cordings, i.e. the former resulted directly from the latter. I just explained why I find that hard to believe.
No Kent, the intended suggestion was that there was correlation not necessarily causation
Yes it was poorly worded, implying the two comments were related. He’d have done better to drop whichever part was irrelevant, either the Cordings purchase or the “before he….went a bit weird” part. I imagine he was wanting to make a point that whilst he enjoyed elements of Clapton’s style he didn’t respect or agree with everything he said or did. But i think we are getting off topic.
😆😆😆
I enjoy showing off my Christmas card I get from Eric Clapton each year.
As you should and as i would too!
I like these posts. Especially with the Asian gentlemen featured to whom it all appears to come very naturally to them in an unforced way
Question: there’s a white sock with dark loafer trend that seems to have taken hold. To me, it’s the antithesis of style, but I’d be interested in opinions from others why this is allegedly stylish.
I assume you’re familiar with the Ivy traditions of mixing things like sportswear (white socks) with dressier things like loafers? There’s a fair bit around on that if not.
Also see the recent Pink Heap article on PS for an illustration of this with things like Oxfords and chinos, even in a holiday location
Alex is a great feature and it’s nice to see this series return as it’s always an enjoyable read.
He looks comfortable, natural and functional, hence his style really comes through in these images.
Some considerations for future features I would love to see if I may – Leon Cerrone, Gauthier Borsarello, Moteen (just know his instagram handle) and Nicholas Walter to name a few.
All good calls TS, thanks
I thoroughly enjoy this series of articles. Even if I might not ever dress that way, there are clues to looking put together that can be adopted and adapted to the reader’s personal style. I always learn something from these articles, not the least of which is how to look like some care has been taken in the selection of attire as menswear continues to evolve beyond the default of a suit and tie.
I don’t know… he looks cool and casual and *exactly* how you would currently expect a hip young urban guy in his line of work to look like.
But every single detail – the brands, the retailers, the vintage americana pieces, even the style icons – is so utterly pedigreed and above suspicion that his style actually looks a little cramped to me. ‘Just to be on the safe side.’
I would have liked a little more idiosyncrasy, even a little subversion here and there. Maybe a t-shirt that actually reflects your personal taste in music but might raise an eyebrow among your peers, make them question you a little bit. Or perhaps even some naff ‘stealth wealth’ piece thrown in as a dissonant, something a little gauche, I don’t know.
It all looks reliably laid back now, but feels deadly serious. I could be completely wrong, of course.
maybe thats the beauty of personal style. Alex is a young man and he dresses damn well already right now – maybe your points will come later, maybe right know his focus is going on the safer side 🙂
You’re absolutely right of course, and I’m aware my musings say more about me than about Alex – who should have a long and interesting style journey ahead of him, and has already come so far.
It could also be that he enjoys style but fashion is not his primary focus so he sticks to what he knows or is already around (instead of researching others). This could explain the use of ralph inspirations and the brycelands pieces, “just go for the best i know” type of thing, you know? Plus hanging out with Simon and other menswear dudes all the time, and hearing about their fav brands, has to have an influence ;).
Love this – always admired Alex Natt’s relaxed louche-ness.
Interesting to confirm he draws inspiration from that homemade red carpet 1990’s vibe.
Great stuff!
Simon and/or Alex – Where in London do you find a good selection of vintage Levi’s?
There isn’t really a good vintage shop for them – but we covered here a good place on eBay
Looks comfortable in what look like well loved and well worn clothes from quality makers. Can’t really say fairer than that. I might add that there is a passing resemblance to said Mr Clapton in the DB image pre weirdness;-) of course……
I really love Alex’s style, he really nails that stylish but lived in look which is a hard thing to do. On another note, I’m not sure if Alex is available to comment, but may I know which Moscot model the sunglasses are exactly? Really like the look of them.
I can ask him, sure
It’s the Lemtosh model – by far the best known model from them
Thank you for finding out, it’s much appreciated!
thanks for the article. for my taste it could have been a littler longer. Background of the watch, the jewelry 🙂 goes for every how to dress like post
still amazing, its just wishes, which reflect my taste! 🙂 kind regards
Kimberley Lawton has a distinct style.
I understand they were covered in a separate article under “Dobrik and Lawton” some time ago.
If Kimberley has “struck out”, tailoring pun intended, on her own; correct me if I’m wrong, it might merit a new article on her work again one day.
Yes absolutely, I will do at some point
Simon, as a long-time visitor to this site, a big fan…and as someone who has met you a couple of times, please let me register my dismay at an article that somehow has to include the F-bomb.Yes…I know among hipsters it’s acceptable language, including public language…but its use here cheapens what was otherwise an interesting article about an interesting guy…on the world’s leading site devoted to men’s style. Some of us older dudes do and simply should take exception to coarse language. The article, simply put, would have done fine without it.
Love Alex’s look and continue to enjoy this series. I hope it doesn’t sound like an insult, Simon, to say this is my favourite part of PS!
Are those Alden loafers the 9694F model? They look beautiful after being worn-in and wrinkled like that.
Yes they are
Hi Simon,
Sorry for being off-topic, but I have a question about leg opening on trousers.
I’m 188 cm tall, weigh about 78 kilos and my shoe size is 8,5 UK. Which width would you recommend? I know there are a lot of variables to be considered but some recommendations would be very appreciated. I generally like a full cut with a nice amount of drape, but at the same time, I don’t want to look too old-fashioned.
Greetings from a new reader!
I think it depends much more on your personal style than it does on those factors – what do you wear at the moment and how do you find it?
My favourite trouser is a pair of vintage 90s RAF wool trousers with a leg opening of 22 cm and they have a straight fit. I prefer the fit of the trousers over all the other I have. Would something similar work?
Yes I think so. 22cm is a little wide so you may want to consider something narrower, but see what you think about the look when you try them on. Or if you’re having them made, have a look at the fitting, and if in doubt go with 22 as it’s a known quantity – you can always have them narrowed later. (Same with RTW – easier to take in than out)
Going to a celebration of life (a funeral) not wearing traditional black suit white shirt); fancy a black or navy blue blazer , grey flannel trousers roll neck jumper brown shoes .. any suggestion …and grey tweed long coat .
Do you know what others will be wearing? That’s the first consideration. Is it the kind of thing where they will be wearing black?