Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

January 1st 2020

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months. Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months.  Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experien...

Shoes - January 1st 2020

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really means

December 30th 2019

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really means

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sl...

Suits - VideoDecember 30th 2019

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

December 27th 2019

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped. It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped.  It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur spec...

CoatsDecember 27th 2019

Junk clothing and joke clothing

December 23rd 2019

In recent weeks two friends inadvertently coined similar phrases, in relation to what they saw as wrong with clothing today. One referred to the buying of large volumes of cheap clothes - often plastic, often made in poor labour conditions - as &ls...

Junk clothing and joke clothing

In recent weeks two friends inadvertently coined similar phrases, in relation to what they saw as wrong with clothing today.  One referred to the buying of large volumes of cheap clothes - often plastic, often made in ...

December 23rd 2019

Wearing navy trousers as separates

December 20th 2019

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...

Wearing navy trousers as separates

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons.  First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re lik...

Style - TrousersDecember 20th 2019

The Permanent Style readership survey (with prize)

December 18th 2019

*Note: The competition is now closed, and the winner will be announced soon. Please feel free to carry on filling out the survey, but you will no longer be entered into the competition* Permanent Style has always been about the readers. Word of mou...

The Permanent Style readership survey (with prize)

*Note: The competition is now closed, and the winner will be announced soon. Please feel free to carry on filling out the survey, but you will no longer be entered into the competition* Permanent Style has always been a...

December 18th 2019

PS Watch Caps back in stock

December 16th 2019

The Permanent Style Watch Cap is finally available again, in the popular navy and mid-grey. Although the grey we did originally was well received, a lot of people commented that something a shade darker - more the colour of classic flannels - would ...

PS Watch Caps back in stock

The Permanent Style Watch Cap is finally available again, in the popular navy and mid-grey. Although the grey we did originally was well received, a lot of people commented that something a shade darker - more the colou...

HatsDecember 16th 2019

How I’d shop on a budget

December 13th 2019

With its aim of covering the finest, quality menswear in the world, Permanent Style’s coverage varies widely - from suits for £1500 to those for £7000, £150 shirts to £500 ones. Although I’ve always wanted to cov...

How I’d shop on a budget

With its aim of covering the finest, quality menswear in the world, Permanent Style’s coverage varies widely - from suits for £1500 to those for £7000, £150 shirts to £500 ones.  Although I’ve always wanted to ...

December 13th 2019

Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan

December 11th 2019

Two years ago, I spotted a couple of chunky sweaters on the top of a unit in the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, in London. I got them down and tried them on: they were big, ribbed shawl-collar cardigans. Like the classic style we know fr...

Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan

Two years ago, I spotted a couple of chunky sweaters on the top of a unit in the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, in London.  I got them down and tried them on: they were big, ribbed shawl-collar cardigans. Like t...

KnitwearDecember 11th 2019

Video: How much can you alter a suit?

December 9th 2019

One of the reasons a bespoke suit can last a long time is that it is easier to adjust, and the tailors that made it are better at doing so. It's easier to adjust because more cloth is left in the seams, and in more places, than anything made in a fa...

Video: How much can you alter a suit?

One of the reasons a bespoke suit can last a long time is that it is easier to adjust, and the tailors that made it are better at doing so. It's easier to adjust because more cloth is left in the seams, and in more plac...

Alterations and care - VideoDecember 9th 2019

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

December 6th 2019

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new? What the atmosphere is like,...

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

Why should you care about a factory visit?  Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it?  Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or n...

Factory visits - ShoesDecember 6th 2019

The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cifon...

December 4th 2019

This article concerns two things. First, the pluses and minuses of the Cifonelli 6x1 style, as this is the first jacket I’ve had from them in their well-known cut. And second, the benefits of a velvet jacket without silk facings - and how it...

The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cifon...

This article concerns two things.  First, the pluses and minuses of the Cifonelli 6x1 style, as this is the first jacket I’ve had from them in their well-known cut.  And second, the benefits of a velvet jacket witho...

Jackets - StyleDecember 4th 2019

Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’Et...

December 2nd 2019

I think L'Étiquette is the best menswear magazine in the world at the moment. The main reason is its ability to cover bespoke tailoring and high-street casual - Caraceni and Converse - in a way that feels both easy and relevant. This applies ...

Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’Et...

I think L'Étiquette is the best menswear magazine in the world at the moment. The main reason is its ability to cover bespoke tailoring and high-street casual - Caraceni and Converse - in a way that feels both easy and...

StyleDecember 2nd 2019

The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting

November 29th 2019

I recently went to see Wil Whiting's studio for the first time. Wil and I have chatted many times in recent years, but this was the first time I'd been to see where he works. Wil has proved himself a talented shirtmaker, despite only four years sin...

The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting

I recently went to see Wil Whiting's studio for the first time. Wil and I have chatted many times in recent years, but this was the first time I'd been to see where he works.  Wil has proved himself a talented shirtmak...

ShirtsNovember 29th 2019

The polo shirt under knitwear

November 27th 2019

I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters. Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt. It’s the reason I sometimes we...

The polo shirt under knitwear

I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters.  Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt.  It’s t...

Shirts - StyleNovember 27th 2019

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

November 25th 2019

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small an...

Knitwear - ShoesNovember 25th 2019

Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared

November 22nd 2019

This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...

Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared

This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of c...

Jackets - VideoNovember 22nd 2019

The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review

November 20th 2019

This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology. Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a workshop in mainland China. Th...

The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review

This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology.  Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a ...

SuitsNovember 20th 2019

Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers

November 18th 2019

Double forward-facing pleats, from Panico Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore – the seventh in the Suit...

Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers

  Double forward-facing pleats, from Panico Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore – the ...

TrousersNovember 18th 2019

Alfredo Rifugio: Luxury Neapolitan leather jackets

November 15th 2019

Rifugio is a Neapolitan leather manufacturer, which in the past three years has followed a path well-trodden by many modern makers: leaving pure manufacturing to set up their own brand. I’ve seen several Rifugio pieces over the past couple of...

Alfredo Rifugio: Luxury Neapolitan leather jackets

Rifugio is a Neapolitan leather manufacturer, which in the past three years has followed a path well-trodden by many modern makers: leaving pure manufacturing to set up their own brand.  I’ve seen several Rifugio pie...

Casual clothingNovember 15th 2019

The weekend capsule wardrobe

November 13th 2019

A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities. At one e...

The weekend capsule wardrobe

A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array o...

StyleNovember 13th 2019

Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor

November 11th 2019

Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS. He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he finally did - and moved into the...

Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor

Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS.  He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he final...

CoatsNovember 11th 2019

The Optimo hat factory, Chicago

November 8th 2019

Optimo hats in Chicago has to be the prettiest factory I’ve ever been to. Over the years I have been to some impressive ones: Hermes, Loro Piana, Zegna. But they’re grand, sweeping, sometimes in sculpted countryside. Optimo is small an...

The Optimo hat factory, Chicago

Optimo hats in Chicago has to be the prettiest factory I’ve ever been to.  Over the years I have been to some impressive ones: Hermes, Loro Piana, Zegna. But they’re grand, sweeping, sometimes in sculpted countrysi...

HatsNovember 8th 2019

Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket

November 6th 2019

At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure an...

Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket

At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdo...

Jackets - VideoNovember 6th 2019

Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Italian...

November 4th 2019

Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake’s, Anderson &...

Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Italian...

Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own.  They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake...

TrousersNovember 4th 2019