Colhay’s: Slim Scottish knitwear

January 24th 2020

Colhay’s is a start-up offering Scottish knitwear in slim fits, and some smaller sizes. As unique selling points go, it’s fairly niche. I did debate whether, given that, it was worth a full article on PS. But I I think is, for a couple ...

Colhay’s: Slim Scottish knitwear

Colhay’s is a start-up offering Scottish knitwear in slim fits, and some smaller sizes.  As unique selling points go, it’s fairly niche. I did debate whether, given that, it was worth a full article on PS. But I I ...

KnitwearJanuary 24th 2020

Wearing black

January 22nd 2020

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...

Wearing black

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounce...

Coats - ShoesJanuary 22nd 2020

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

January 20th 2020

  This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats , and at cut , in hopefully comprehensive detail. Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details – including...

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

  This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats , and at cut , in hopefully comprehensive detail.  Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style detail...

TrousersJanuary 20th 2020

Video: What makes a quality hat?

January 17th 2020

In a comment on our recent video covering suit alterations, a reader complimented my questioning of Davide - saying I was putting the questions the viewer was thinking. I was really chuffed at that. As someone who spent most of their professional c...

Video: What makes a quality hat?

In a comment on our recent video covering suit alterations, a reader complimented my questioning of Davide - saying I was putting the questions the viewer was thinking.  I was really chuffed at that. As someone who spe...

Hats - VideoJanuary 17th 2020

The Permanent Style Awards 2020: Value, investment ...

January 15th 2020

The Permanent Style Awards this year are about pieces you love, value and would recommend. Plus local shops and the feminine eye. There are two awards intended to create a pool of ideas for everyone else: the value or budget piece you would most re...

The Permanent Style Awards 2020: Value, investment ...

The Permanent Style Awards this year are about pieces you love, value and would recommend. Plus local shops and the feminine eye.  There are two awards intended to create a pool of ideas for everyone else: the value or...

January 15th 2020

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

January 13th 2020

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age.  The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one o...

ShirtsJanuary 13th 2020

Adamley hand-screen printing, Macclesfield

January 10th 2020

Let me set the scene. Macclesfield is a small English market town, and it’s a grey day. The bright-green casentino overcoat of Benedikt Fries, as he walks towards us, rather stands out. Photographer Alex Natt and I are watching him approach f...

Adamley hand-screen printing, Macclesfield

Let me set the scene. Macclesfield is a small English market town, and it’s a grey day. The bright-green casentino overcoat of Benedikt Fries, as he walks towards us, rather stands out.  Photographer Alex Natt and I ...

Hanks and scarves - TiesJanuary 10th 2020

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

January 8th 2020

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing. Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing.  Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just h...

CoatsJanuary 8th 2020

Pinnas & Needles alterations

January 6th 2020

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them. Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a pro...

Pinnas & Needles alterations

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them.  Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing...

Coats - TrousersJanuary 6th 2020

The guide to winter shirt fabrics

January 3rd 2020

I’m a relatively new convert to winter shirts. Although I’ve had brushed cottons in the past (such as my grey made by Simone Abbarchi, above) it’s only this season that I’ve started wearing heavier flannels and cords. Perha...

The guide to winter shirt fabrics

I’m a relatively new convert to winter shirts.  Although I’ve had brushed cottons in the past (such as my grey made by Simone Abbarchi, above) it’s only this season that I’ve started wearing heavier flannels an...

Cloth - ShirtsJanuary 3rd 2020

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

January 1st 2020

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months. Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months.  Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experien...

Shoes - January 1st 2020

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really means

December 30th 2019

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...

Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really means

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sl...

Suits - VideoDecember 30th 2019

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

December 27th 2019

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped. It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped.  It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur spec...

CoatsDecember 27th 2019

Junk clothing and joke clothing

December 23rd 2019

In recent weeks two friends inadvertently coined similar phrases, in relation to what they saw as wrong with clothing today. One referred to the buying of large volumes of cheap clothes - often plastic, often made in poor labour conditions - as &ls...

Junk clothing and joke clothing

In recent weeks two friends inadvertently coined similar phrases, in relation to what they saw as wrong with clothing today.  One referred to the buying of large volumes of cheap clothes - often plastic, often made in ...

December 23rd 2019

Wearing navy trousers as separates

December 20th 2019

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...

Wearing navy trousers as separates

I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons.  First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re lik...

Style - TrousersDecember 20th 2019

The Permanent Style readership survey (with prize)

December 18th 2019

*Note: The competition is now closed, and the winner will be announced soon. Please feel free to carry on filling out the survey, but you will no longer be entered into the competition* Permanent Style has always been about the readers. Word of mou...

The Permanent Style readership survey (with prize)

*Note: The competition is now closed, and the winner will be announced soon. Please feel free to carry on filling out the survey, but you will no longer be entered into the competition* Permanent Style has always been a...

December 18th 2019

PS Watch Caps back in stock

December 16th 2019

The Permanent Style Watch Cap is finally available again, in the popular navy and mid-grey. Although the grey we did originally was well received, a lot of people commented that something a shade darker - more the colour of classic flannels - would ...

PS Watch Caps back in stock

The Permanent Style Watch Cap is finally available again, in the popular navy and mid-grey. Although the grey we did originally was well received, a lot of people commented that something a shade darker - more the colou...

HatsDecember 16th 2019

How I’d shop on a budget

December 13th 2019

With its aim of covering the finest, quality menswear in the world, Permanent Style’s coverage varies widely - from suits for £1500 to those for £7000, £150 shirts to £500 ones. Although I’ve always wanted to cov...

How I’d shop on a budget

With its aim of covering the finest, quality menswear in the world, Permanent Style’s coverage varies widely - from suits for £1500 to those for £7000, £150 shirts to £500 ones.  Although I’ve always wanted to ...

December 13th 2019

Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan

December 11th 2019

Two years ago, I spotted a couple of chunky sweaters on the top of a unit in the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, in London. I got them down and tried them on: they were big, ribbed shawl-collar cardigans. Like the classic style we know fr...

Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan

Two years ago, I spotted a couple of chunky sweaters on the top of a unit in the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, in London.  I got them down and tried them on: they were big, ribbed shawl-collar cardigans. Like t...

KnitwearDecember 11th 2019

Video: How much can you alter a suit?

December 9th 2019

One of the reasons a bespoke suit can last a long time is that it is easier to adjust, and the tailors that made it are better at doing so. It's easier to adjust because more cloth is left in the seams, and in more places, than anything made in a fa...

Video: How much can you alter a suit?

One of the reasons a bespoke suit can last a long time is that it is easier to adjust, and the tailors that made it are better at doing so. It's easier to adjust because more cloth is left in the seams, and in more plac...

Alterations and care - VideoDecember 9th 2019

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

December 6th 2019

Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new? What the atmosphere is like,...

How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago

Why should you care about a factory visit?  Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it?  Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or n...

Factory visits - ShoesDecember 6th 2019

The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cifon...

December 4th 2019

This article concerns two things. First, the pluses and minuses of the Cifonelli 6x1 style, as this is the first jacket I’ve had from them in their well-known cut. And second, the benefits of a velvet jacket without silk facings - and how it...

The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cifon...

This article concerns two things.  First, the pluses and minuses of the Cifonelli 6x1 style, as this is the first jacket I’ve had from them in their well-known cut.  And second, the benefits of a velvet jacket witho...

Jackets - StyleDecember 4th 2019

Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’Et...

December 2nd 2019

I think L'Étiquette is the best menswear magazine in the world at the moment. The main reason is its ability to cover bespoke tailoring and high-street casual - Caraceni and Converse - in a way that feels both easy and relevant. This applies ...

Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’Et...

I think L'Étiquette is the best menswear magazine in the world at the moment. The main reason is its ability to cover bespoke tailoring and high-street casual - Caraceni and Converse - in a way that feels both easy and...

StyleDecember 2nd 2019

The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting

November 29th 2019

I recently went to see Wil Whiting's studio for the first time. Wil and I have chatted many times in recent years, but this was the first time I'd been to see where he works. Wil has proved himself a talented shirtmaker, despite only four years sin...

The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting

I recently went to see Wil Whiting's studio for the first time. Wil and I have chatted many times in recent years, but this was the first time I'd been to see where he works.  Wil has proved himself a talented shirtmak...

ShirtsNovember 29th 2019

The polo shirt under knitwear

November 27th 2019

I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters. Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt. It’s the reason I sometimes we...

The polo shirt under knitwear

I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters.  Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt.  It’s t...

Shirts - StyleNovember 27th 2019