Local UK tailors: Controlled crowdsourcing

July 10th 2020

Readers have commented fairly regularly that it would be good to include more local UK tailors on Permanent Style. I’ve generally been resistant, largely because those tailors would be relevant to only a small number of people. As they tend n...

Local UK tailors: Controlled crowdsourcing

Readers have commented fairly regularly that it would be good to include more local UK tailors on Permanent Style.  I’ve generally been resistant, largely because those tailors would be relevant to only a small numbe...

July 10th 2020

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Introduction an...

July 8th 2020

Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I thought it would be good time to wri...

Nicholas Templeman bespoke shoes: Introduction an...

Nicholas Templeman is a bespoke shoemaker, an ex-John Lobb lastmaker who now works out of his home in North London. We've been working on a pair of derby shoes for the past year, and they're near completion. So I though...

ShoesJuly 8th 2020

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

July 6th 2020

  One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that you can throw on for...

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

  One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home.  Something that you can t...

ClothJuly 6th 2020

Espadrilles: Style, occasion, and brands

July 3rd 2020

UPDATE: This is a nice video from Diegos showing how espadrilles are made. You can see the better, neater hand sewing of the soles mentioned below. I remember clearly when I got my first pair of espadrilles. I was 19, on holiday in Spain, and bough...

Espadrilles: Style, occasion, and brands

UPDATE: This is a nice video from Diegos showing how espadrilles are made. You can see the better, neater hand sewing of the soles mentioned below.  I remember clearly when I got my first pair of espadrilles. I was 19,...

ShoesJuly 3rd 2020

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

July 1st 2020

Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician. I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make. The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable, both in the handwork visible...

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician.  I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make.  The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable, ...

SuitsJuly 1st 2020

What are the best cheaper shoe brands?

June 29th 2020

*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way. Last month, Swedish shoe brand Myrqvist (above) sen...

What are the best cheaper shoe brands?

*UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Jesper's information was based on information by two Carmina retailers. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way.  Last month, Swedish ...

ShoesJune 29th 2020

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

June 26th 2020

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I spend?” It’s a popu...

Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch

This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building.  Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I spen...

Reader questions - VideoJune 26th 2020

How to wear a cream jacket

June 24th 2020

A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and illustrates, three ways I&am...

How to wear a cream jacket

  A cream jacket is more useful than you might think.  Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year.   This post describes, an...

StyleJune 24th 2020

Jets and pockets: Signs of a good finishing

June 22nd 2020

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just to...

Jets and pockets: Signs of a good finishing

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality.  I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwi...

June 22nd 2020

Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home

June 19th 2020

Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combination that feels new, becaus...

Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home

Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing.  Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combina...

StyleJune 19th 2020

A complete capsule wardrobe

June 17th 2020

  This article was spurred by two things. First, by a reader specifically asking for it, on another capsule post in this series (always a good sign). And second, by some consultancy work I’ve been doing, where the client had assembled ...

A complete capsule wardrobe

  This article was spurred by two things. First, by a reader specifically asking for it, on another capsule post in this series (always a good sign). And second, by some consultancy work I’ve been doing, where the...

June 17th 2020

The accidental columnist: A conversation with Rob...

June 15th 2020

Robert Armstrong is the US Finance Editor at the Financial Times . He has also been their Chief Editorial Writer and edited the Lex column. In the midst of all this international finance, he has also fallen into the role of FT menswear columnist. I...

The accidental columnist: A conversation with Rob...

Robert Armstrong is the US Finance Editor at the Financial Times . He has also been their Chief Editorial Writer and edited the Lex column.  In the midst of all this international finance, he has also fallen into the r...

StyleJune 15th 2020

Wearing red – with L’Etiquette

June 12th 2020

The fourth issue of L’Etiquette came out last week, and it remains the best menswear magazine in the world for me. (See previous article here for an explanation why.) We’re honoured to be the only website permitted to translate and repub...

Wearing red – with L’Etiquette

The fourth issue of L’Etiquette came out last week, and it remains the best menswear magazine in the world for me. (See previous article here for an explanation why.) We’re honoured to be the only website permitted ...

StyleJune 12th 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

June 10th 2020

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should...

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way.  This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what...

SuitsJune 10th 2020

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

June 8th 2020

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes bac...

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to rece...

Casual clothing - CoatsJune 8th 2020

How to darn socks and knitwear

June 5th 2020

On Permanent Style we often recommend to buy less, but buy better. Just as important, however, is to recycle well (finding a good home for things you don’t wear) and to look after clothes well. They are three sides of the same approach - and...

How to darn socks and knitwear

On Permanent Style we often recommend to buy less, but buy better.  Just as important, however, is to recycle well (finding a good home for things you don’t wear) and to look after clothes well.  They are three side...

Alterations and careJune 5th 2020

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

June 3rd 2020

  This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a fu...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

  This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it agai...

June 3rd 2020

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

June 1st 2020

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; a...

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop...

SuitsJune 1st 2020

Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of...

May 29th 2020

  Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe. This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different looks – three dif...

Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of...

  Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe.  This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different look...

StyleMay 29th 2020

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

May 27th 2020

This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere. That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for tailoring. This cardigan uses...

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere.  That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for tai...

KnitwearMay 27th 2020

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

May 25th 2020

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I’m going to a tailor or shirt...

Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time

I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat.  The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I’m going t...

Reader questions - VideoMay 25th 2020

Bespoke socks, at Mes Chaussettes Rouges

May 22nd 2020

Do most people need bespoke socks? No. Most people are fine with simple small, medium and large sizing. And when you get into proper sock sizes (10, 10.5, 11) everyone is catered for. Do they need specific colours, or materials? Well possibly, but ...

Bespoke socks, at Mes Chaussettes Rouges

Do most people need bespoke socks? No. Most people are fine with simple small, medium and large sizing. And when you get into proper sock sizes (10, 10.5, 11) everyone is catered for.  Do they need specific colours, or...

Socks and underwearMay 22nd 2020

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

May 20th 2020

  Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe. We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in quite a lot of detail...

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

    Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe.  We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in q...

KnitwearMay 20th 2020

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

May 18th 2020

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear of thrift shops, or seeking ba...

Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)

The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective.  People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear of thri...

DenimMay 18th 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

May 15th 2020

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Ander...

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, ...

Casual clothing - ShoesMay 15th 2020