New versions of Sam Cundey’s special red tie
The Henry Poole burgundy that was seen as the lining and overcheck on my DB suit has always been used as the colour for the Sam Cundey special red tie. This year that is being expanded into a full range of ties on the same, indivudal weave design. Th...
New versions of Sam Cundey’s special red tie
Match in comments:
Available in store now and from Simon, who is currently touring California. On the website soon. Simon...
Unlined ties at Panta Clothing
Ed Morel over at new New York company Panta has started making ties as part of his offering (see prevous post on his superb trousers here) and I received a couple last week. Though the ties are made in New York, they all use English silks and wools. ...
Unlined ties at Panta Clothing
Match in comments:
Your blog is really excellent. It inspires the readers who has that great desire to lead a better and happier life. Thanks for sharing this information and hope to read more from you....
Options on pockets, and avoiding a tie
Gentlemen, the brown, brook or rainbow Esquire April 1935, “Brown, by the way, is a new colour for trout-fishing boots. The notion being that they are much less readily discernible to the fish. Other features of the outfit on the left are t...
Options on pockets, and avoiding a tie
Match in comments:
Yes...the pocket treatments are superb. I have the jacket on the right...modeled identically. As for poacher/bellows pockets...I can't get enough of them. I even had a two piece cavalry twill lounge suit made with them....
Different ways to give a tie spring
A good tie has some form of ‘spring mechanism’ so that, after you have untied it roughly, tugged it out of your collar and hung it up, the mechanism gradually returns it to its natural shape. This is achieved through the slip stitch, whic...
Different ways to give a tie spring
Match in comments:
Says a lot about the man that would wear Nina Ricci ties....
Tie facts from Peckham Rye
Following on from the last, rather popular post on Peckham Rye and Hunter’s founders David Walker and Martin Brighty, here are some more insights from the interview: – When you turn a tie in your hand and it seems to change colour sli...
Tie facts from Peckham Rye
Match in comments:
Following my last comment, above, I finally plucked up the courage to try the burning technique and am pleased to say it has been a roaring success - my frayed ties have been restored to their former glory. Don't be afra...
Three tips on ties
This post refers to ‘three more tips’ because way back in April 2008 I wrote a post called Two Tips on Ties. I think the alliteration rather pleased me at the time. That was a discussion about the best way to get a nice dimple in a tie kn...
Three tips on ties
Match in comments:
I'll see if I can find something, but it's fairly straightforward - just keep the top of the tie in the middle of the collar...
Wear a contrast tie with a contrast collar
A shirt with cuffs and collar (usually white) that are a different colour to the body is not easy to wear well. Sometimes known as a contrast collar, it is more often worn badly than flatteringly. It should be a slightly unusual part of a man’s...
Wear a contrast tie with a contrast collar
Match in comments:
any tie suggestions with a contrast color purple puppytooth shirt ? thanks...
How a Drake’s tie is sewn
Following up on last week’s post on how the silk for a tie is cut, here’s a demonstration of how it is sewn together. The key to any well-made tie is the slip stitch that runs all the way up its centre. It begins with a bar tack at the wi...
How a Drake’s tie is sewn
Match in comments:
Excellent summary. Can one order self-tipped ties without liners? Also, your impression on the various environment(s) where Houndstooth neckwear are worn?...
Hand-cutting ties at Drake’s
Traditional manufacturers often do things a bit differently. It may take more time, and it will probably be more expensive, but they think it’s worth it. On Permanent Style, that’s something I like to celebrate. This week I’m celebr...
Hand-cutting ties at Drake’s
Match in comments:
Best to check with them Joe...
How my ties were made
The men and women at Vanners were kind enough to send me pictures recently of how my bespoke ties were made down in Suffolk. So here they are, with explanatory captions. The three-piece pattern for the tie is laid out on the woven silk, at exactly 45...
How my ties were made
Match in comments:
Michael, You're right, that does look good. It is my impression that a traditional covert coat was a lightweight topcoat with a fly front and extra rows of stitching to prevent fraying. The photo looks more like an overc...
Confusing seven-fold ties
A seven-fold tie doesn’t necessarily have seven folds anymore. That isn’t because of corporate marketing and shortcuts (though the ‘VII fold’ from a certain manufacturer might qualify for that description). Rather, different w...
Confusing seven-fold ties
Match in comments:
It depends what you mean by quality. It takes more time, silk and perhaps skill to make a seven fold, but the materials and methods are the same. There's no objective benefit, it's just a nice artistic object...
Spotting quality in a tie (at Drake’s)
It’s not easy to spot a high-quality tie. Most of the signs that people tell you to look for, such as the loop being sewn in between the folds rather than tacked across, have no real practical benefit. They are just signs that a little more eff...
Spotting quality in a tie (at Drake’s)
Match in comments:
I've always wondered about this cutting on the bias. I know how to detect it, but visually it's very hard to spot. For instance I have a Drake's tie that has lines straight down. Was that woven taking the cutting on the ...
Navy stripe: The most useful tie
From a purely logical standpoint, the most useful tie you will own is a navy-blue club stripe. Followed by a brown or burgundy in the same pattern. The first reason is that a dark tie is more versatile than a pale tie. It is more sober, more business...
Navy stripe: The most useful tie
Match in comments:
I don't think it makes much difference to be honest Darren....
Evening wear: Why a four-in-hand is better than a...
Aren’t you just sick of celebrities turning up to the Oscars in a four-in-hand tie? A black tie event demands a bow tie. A long tie may be trendier, but this is an outfit steeped in history. History and tradition demand a bow tie. Right? Wrong....
Evening wear: Why a four-in-hand is better than a...
Match in comments:
Dear Simon living in Zurich I have the advantage of beeing in Milano in three hours. I have not only bought traditional Marinella ties but also more modern ones from AD56. The shop owner wears them very casually, the thi...
The undone tie
A loose tie knot is much derided by style aficionados and those of a traditional bent to menswear. But it can work well. As with all these style quirks, it depends on using traditions of menswear as a weapon, understanding them and then subverting th...
The undone tie
A loose tie knot is much derided by style aficionados and those of a traditional bent to menswear. But it can work well. As with all these style quirks, it depends on using traditions of menswear as a weapon, understandi...
Problem solved: sweaters with ties
Ok, here’s the problem. I like ties. Such is their ability to add an exciting dash of colour to an outfit, I prefer to wear one whenever possible. Yet sweaters have their advantages as well, and the two are hard to wear together. Let me explain...
Problem solved: sweaters with ties
Match in comments:
Good day, As a rule, would you have the collars of your shirt in or out of a jumper while wearing a tie? I'm assuming 'in'. Thankyou....
A dreamed-up tie tuck
As has often been lamented on this site, ties don’t perform the role they once did. Waistcoats are worn less, jackets are largely taken off when working, and even when jackets are worn they are frequently left unbuttoned. As a result, the tie h...
A dreamed-up tie tuck
Match in comments:
have you got a storie about how you really enjoyed going to the musium...
Two tips on ties
Here are a couple of tried and tested tips for tying ties. Apologies for the excessive alliteration. I’m a fan of a nice, large dimple in a tie. Two reasons: I think it adds a certain lustre to the silk to be pulled in thus, and the added tensi...
Two tips on ties
Match in comments:
No, sorry Jeff...
The tie was on purpose!
For regular readers of this blog, you may be interested to know that my grandfather was wearing his Macclesfield tie deliberately at my wedding this summer (see posting on 31 December 2007). The traditions we read about do live on. See photo above f...
The tie was on purpose!
Match in comments:
As a Macclesfield man, I must point you in this direction https://www.barnabysilks.com/ silk ties made in Macclesfield . The small geometric patterns are the traditional, Macclesfield , ‘neat’...
Was that tie on purpose?
Watch your parents and grandparents with interest. It is always fascinating to see how traditions for dress and its practicality become instinct over time. While at home last week, for example, I noticed that my father was wearing dark blue socks ...
Was that tie on purpose?
Match in comments:
Thanks, makes sense....
