The menswear and culture of Bangkok

Friday, December 20th 2024
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I was in Thailand last week, holding an event at the shop Decorum, and I have to say I was impressed with the local menswear culture.

I’ve travelled a fair bit round east Asia, but not much in the south-east – just Singapore many years ago. Frankly I didn’t associate Bangkok with menswear – I’d think of Singapore perhaps, then skip over most of the rest onto the likes of Hong Kong or Seoul to the north and Australia to the south.

But the city is really open and international, distinct and cultured, and has some good shops (including strong vintage), a couple of decent local tailors, and a lot of PS readers.

Speaking to those at the event, I learnt that business dress is pretty casual here - few people wear a suit, preferring a shirt and trousers. The weather doesn’t help of course, but fewer people wear tailoring than in Japan (which is also very hot and humid in the summer) or Hong Kong.

Yet there is of a culture of dressing up. It’s more common for people to dress up to go out here, to have dinner at one of the luxury hotels perhaps, than in somewhere like Singapore.

Decorum has a shop in Singapore too, and I spoke to the manager Charles about this: “Singapore is more dressed down, the norm is T-shirts and flip-flops,” he said. “Despite being a rich city it’s a harder market for us in many ways than Thailand.”

Bangkok is growing fast, particularly in luxury malls and the brands that come with them. Decorum started in 2017 but has expanded into six shops around the city, with a seventh opening in the new One Bangkok development next year.

The original shop was modelled as a townhouse, and both it and the Singapore branch still feel that way. But the newer branches - including the one we were in - are largely in those new malls. Decorum also branched out into areas like women’s clothing and fashion brands, to cover more of the local market.

Trunk shows have always been a big part of the business model. Decorum were the first to do them in both Bangkok and Singapore, and they now do two or three every month - Singapore did 22 last year. The ones in Thailand include Husbands (who were very popular), J Mueser, Ascot Chang, Yolo knitwear, Igarashi trousers, Sartoria Raffaniello, Assisi (Decorum were the ones that introduced me to them) and Bryceland’s.

Guy and Ball - the co-founders - asked me to bring out something from the PS Shop that local readers could try, so I brought a set of the Linen Overshirts, which seemed practical for the local weather and (being a lot colder in the US and Europe right now) not many other people are looking at.

Among other good shops in Bangkok are Pronto - which is the biggest workwear retailer and has several branches - and the various vintage places.

Bangkok is a big vintage centre, and one of the prime places Japanese dealers come to source pieces to sell back home. The best ones, such as Wooden Submarine, make most of their money this way.

You can see why, as the prices here are less than a third of what you pay in Japan or the US. Though the quality is also more mixed - you pay for someone to find the prime pieces as well as to import it to a shop near you.

After Submarine we visited Memories Brand, the beautiful and unusual Overall Days - which specialises in women’s and children’s vintage - and a big market known as the ‘Red Building’.

This is a multi-floor market with a mix of vintage watches, clothes, and furniture, and then a big flea market outside as well. The clothes floor has almost 50 shops, with some specialising in military surplus, others in band tees, others in sunglasses, and two or three with very high-end Americana.

I bought a couple of things, including a beautiful Big Mac denim shirt and an old camp blanket (I love how soft those things are). But there were ‘big E’ Levi’s in some of those stores for £200, for example, compared to something like £900 in Japan.

It never fails to amaze me that there are so many readers around the world getting both enjoyment and advice from Permanent Style. It was wonderful to meet those in Thailand, and I felt both honoured and humbled.

Thank you to Guy, Ball, Krittanan and everyone that helped with the event. And to Ethan, Janet and Cici for keeping me company. Hopefully it won’t be too long before I come back, and I can see much more of the country.

On the clothes pictured: I’ll do a separate post on those, so please leave questions until then. Thanks.

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Andrew

When I visited Osaka recently I was blown away by how well everyone dressed. It seems the culture Of personal presentation hasn’t died in Asia as it seems to have largely in parts of Europe renowned for tailoring.

Petronio

I can only say that more than 20 years ago I purchased in Bangkok the best made to measure shirt I have ever ordered. It was expensive compared to local prices but much cheaper than in Italy with absolute top quality in terms of cotton and crafting.

eric-c

This shop looks quite nice. Chet Baker tshirts, footwear, some trousers and jackets. 
The quality for value aspect of this area intrigues me. I notice The Decorum sell Fugashin footwear, which is Vietnamese make. I believe CNES (Singaporean) makes in Vietnam as well.
Anecdotally, I’ve heard Kuala Lumpur — not often on the radar — has good custom tailors. Can’t vouch for the quality of the advice, but some residents speak highly of it.
Also, Indonesian casual boots have been garnering attention in the US.
Makes me wonder how this shop would compare to The Anthology.
Just thoughts. Thanks for calling attention to this.

Il Pennacchio

Manila has some solid tailors and, in Marikina, even its own Northampton.

nick ainsworth

I bought Jalan Sriwijaya shoes online- Japanese designed and made in Indonesia. Very nicely crafted and good value for money

Michael

What was your impression of the local tailors you mentioned in the article compared to those you’ve tried in Hong Kong? How did they compare in terms of style, quality, and price?

Also, could any readers from Bangkok share their experiences?

nick ainsworth

Bangkok is 1/3 to 1/2 HK price or around that for comparable fabrics. Not sure about styling so getting a copy of something you like is the best option. A lot of the made to measure stuff is done for weddings etc.. youngish people and fit tends to be a little too tight unless one is careful

Mr. D

Great post! I love that my guy Luke was able to attend this lovely event.

Other Aaron

I went there a decade or so ago and was blown away by all the small local designers. I think the comparison to Japan is fair – it’s definitely a stylish place. The bottom end is worse than Japan (probably due to poverty), but there’s certainly a stylish spirit to people 🙂

Maurice

I would be interested in a post that reviews the Bangkok tailoring scene.
I have never been to Thailand, but I would guess that given the climate the tailors would be good at lighter-weight suits for the tropics.
Three things that can be important when working with tailors in Asia:
a. to reject the 24-hour-suit concept at the outset. Plan to spend at least 2 weeks, preferably 3 weeks or more, in the city. Make your first visit in the initial 1-2 days of your trip and plan a schedule of fitting(s) so that you are scheduled to get your suit 2-3 days before departure. That will leave time for delays — do not plan to collect a suit on the morning of your flight home!
b. to explain the cut that you like and, if possible, both take measurements and also leave something that you like for the tailor to copy. Otherwise, you might end up with something that is too tight, too form-fitting. This is why at least 1 fitting, preferably 2, is very important even if it costs a little more.
c. to discuss the amount of handwork you would like in your jackets. The tailors are likely to be able to do handwork, but it does take more time. If you go for a 24-hour suit, you are likely to get something fused!
There a many Bangkok tailors online, e.g., https://www.patricknco.com/products/suits/ , https://paulbespoke.com/ , and I have heard from old Asia hands that Thai tailors are very good.

Il Pennacchio

Masanting Sastreria in Manila has developed what it calls its ‘Filipino house cut’ for the weather there, and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury its ‘Air Jacket‘ for the heat of Chennai, so it wouldn’t surprise me if tailors in Thailand have done something similar.

James

Was there a recording of the talk? If so any idea when / where it will be posted, please?

Isaac

I’d love to see something on Sam Hober. If I recall correctly, they do their manufacturing there.

John G

“A couple of decent tailors”. How could you possibly know that from a short visit? I’ve spent a lot of time in Bangkok, used several tailors, all with good results, but I would have no idea as to the hundreds of tailors in BK which are good, exceptional, average or poor. BK actually has a long and deep tailoring tradition going back many years, and tailors can be found all over the city. I doubt if even the locals have any idea how many of them are exceptional or even competent. And I doubt that you do.

Jeremy

Any chance we’ll get a mention of the two tailors whose work you saw?

Ecnarf Nitram

Respectfully Simon, I’m struggling to see what was not “polite” in the above comment. It may have been mildly critical of the original article but your censorious reply seems to me to be unnecessary.

Werner Keschner

I thought it a bit rude to be honest

Joshua

My partner is from Bangkok, so we go back each year and it’s only ever improved in quality clothing. It’s hilarious seeing western backpackers still dressing in the 70s stereotype ‘village clothing’ next to locals in charcoal tropical wool suits and APC tote bags.

Den

I’m from Bangkok. I feel the tailoring market here has improved a lot in recent years, thanks to the efforts of The Decorum. I understand it can be challenging for non-Thai speakers to avoid scam tailors here. I recommend checking out Primary Haus, Katia, The Manners, Jin Tonic, and Alongkorn, these are well-known names in the local menswear community.

Dave

It’s only a hop, skip and a jump from Bangkok over to Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne Simon. Have you perhaps got any established relationships with businesses like Pat Johnson or Christian Kimber that might help facilitate a PS trunk show tour Down Under in the southern 2025 winter? We’d love to have you.

nick ainsworth

I live in Bangkok now and have lived in Saigon, HK and Tokyo. Tailoring demands AC unless one is wearing tailored shorts and even then, any jacket needs to be seersucker and foldable into a bag for hot transits if using public transport. Tailoring in Saigon is surprisingly good and very cheap; ditto in Bangkok, and in HK it is possible to find tailors with British army credentials who can produce all manner of stuff ( tartan trews for example) and footwear makers like Mayer who have been making my own version of the horsebit Gucci loafer for 15 yrs plus as well as YSL loafers from the early 00’s in Ostrich. My local tailor just made me a copy of a Santillo shirt for $60. Mohair and slightly elastic chino cottons as well as seersucker work quite well for suiting here where the average daily temperature is about 28.5 c.

Kenneth

Good morning..as a always a very impressive article..Simon you are a globetrotter and a man for all seasons..HAPPY NEW YEAR 2025!!!!!

BG

Hi all, I will be visiting Bangkok for a few days in about a month – I understand that I won’t be able to get a suit made in the time – but I was hoping to have a pair of existing trousers replicated (in a higher quality fabric) if possible. Does anyone have any recommendations for a tailor that could do a decent job with it on a very short turnaround? I will also be in Hong Kong on this trip, so any recommendations for a tailor in HK that could perform this service with decent results would be appreciated.
As info, I am not as concerned about tailoring details as most on here – I just want something that looks and feels good. Thanks