Five tips on shirts and ties
The combination of suit, shirt and tie that a man selects in the morning is certainly not the most important thing about what he wears. That would be the quality and fit of the articles themselves. But picking good combinations remains the thing men ...
Five tips on shirts and ties
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A striped shirt and a spotted tie can definitely work together, you just need to err on the side of patterns that are different in strength and density. See this post for example: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2009/01/d...
Bespoke blue voile shirt
It was a pleasure having dinner with Will of A Suitable Wardrobe in San Francisco last week, if only for the wonderful food at Kokkari and Eleni, our lovely waitress. But perhaps most sartorially significant was that I picked up two metres of blue vo...
Bespoke blue voile shirt
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Yes I know, the increases of costs everyone has experienced are really unfortunate - they pull much of this finest clothing out of the reach of more people...
Terrycloth blazer and a fish net shirt?
At Eden Roc on the blue Mediterranean Esquire, August 1936: “One of the world’s most fashionable swimming holes, Eden Roc at Cap d’Antibes, has no beach at all, just steps and all sorts of intricate plateaus that have be...
Terrycloth blazer and a fish net shirt?
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Perhaps, but only round the pool. So, with swim shorts essentially...
Improving on the bespoke shirt
<!–[if !mso]> <![endif]–> At the end of last year I had my first bespoke shirt made in this country, by Turnbull & Asser. You can see the various stages of the process, including a factory visit...
Improving on the bespoke shirt
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Hey, Yes perhaps I should have insisted on more trial shirts, although to be honest it wasn't until several months of wear that I realised things like the cuffs should have been changed. I think two fittings on a trial s...
Made-to-measure shirts at Diverso
I remember when I first stumbled across London shirtmaker Diverso. It was a few years ago, when my enthusiasm for clothes was still some distance ahead of my knowledge. Shirts with high collars were highly fashionable, but I couldn’t find any a...
Made-to-measure shirts at Diverso
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Guest Comments » 1. This post shows how old I am getting. The Diverso shirt looks exactly like styles I had made in the sixties. I too could not get exactly what I wanted and used A Garstang [in Manchester] who did exce...
Shirt facts upon request
Due to popular demand (well, three people) here are some more facts about how the Turnbull & Asser shirts are made up in Gloucester. I know how much you love those little details. – As with a suit, the sleevehead of the shirt is sl...
Shirt facts upon request
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I usually don't have them, as I don't use them functionally (ie sometimes wanting them done up, sometimes not) and they are a pain to do up every time otherwise...
Factory visit: Turnbull & Asser shirts
There are so many facts, figures and geeky points about the construction of Turnbull & Asser shirts that I could be writing about them for days. And you’d be reading for hours. I’ll try to keep the description of my visit brief a...
Factory visit: Turnbull & Asser shirts
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I've just seen your reply, 13 years later! Yes, good points. 13 years, good grief....
Shirt review: Ign. Joseph
I was recently invited to try to the made-to-measure shirts of Ign. Joseph, a shirt brand founded by the eponymous Ignatius Joseph in 1997. Mr Joseph lives in Dusseldorf, Germany and the brand is better known in central Europe – where he is rat...
Shirt review: Ign. Joseph
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huhu...
First British bespoke shirt 2
I liked the trial shirt from the moment I saw it. All neatly pressed and arranged, the cardboard collar finishing in a tab at the front that declared ‘By Royal Appointment’. A nice touch, as was the label (black, discreet, reading ‘...
First British bespoke shirt 2
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Very instructive and interesting Blog. Thanks for that! Regarding T&A shirts I have to admit that I much preferred their old tags, not so obnoxiously black. But fortunately one can ask for the tags to be left out - which...
Turnbull & Asser: My first British bespoke s...
A few months ago I had my first British bespoke suit made. Time, I thought, to repeat the experience in shirts – so I toddled off to 23 Bury Street, home of Turnbull & Asser’s bespoke service. I’ve been a fan of ...
Turnbull & Asser: My first British bespoke s...
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I wouldn't say they would last that much longer, no. The point of a bespoke English shirt is the fit and ability to play with the design, rather than longevity. In fact if you use a finer cotton than an Eton one has, the...
Budd: Very traditional shirts
A second piece by Permanent Style from the latest issue of The Rake Budd: Very traditional shirts Budd shirtmakers is for men that really like English tradition. Unostentatious almost to the point of modesty, Budd has been quietly making some of the ...
Budd: Very traditional shirts
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Not usually, no. I like fusing even in the most expensive shirts. There is certainly cheaper and more expensive fusing, and perhaps you will get an improvement there, but I would have thought CT would still be OK...
The formality of colours – in shirts
In previous postings, I have explained why different aspects of a suit make it more formal. Broadly speaking, a material that is smoother, darker and plainer will be more formal. A dark navy worsted is smarter in all three ways than a mid-grey checke...
The formality of colours – in shirts
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Yes, that would be formal and perhaps a little anachronistic. At the least, a strong style. It could be with button or French cuffs, but if worn formally should be French...
Reader question: Upgrading shirts
Chris (Westie): I want to move on from wearing M&S/Next shirts that don’t fit me properly. Would my next step be to go straight to a tailor? How much can I expect to spend and do I need to know what kind of material and colour or patter...
Reader question: Upgrading shirts
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I can't give very good advice I'm afraid Henry, I haven't had RTW shirts in a while. Maybe I can get Manish or someone else to do a piece on them...
How to put darts in your shirts
I used to have a few shirts that I really liked but which did not fit especially well around the waist. They were bought in the days when I knew a lot less about fit and cloth (hard to imagine, isn’t it?), and while the neck, shoulders and slee...
How to put darts in your shirts
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If they're knitted and so smarter, I don't think it makes that much difference, no...
