Most tailors, in my experience, do not have great style. It was always thus: tailors were pushed by their customers, and one of the problems with modern tailoring is the lack of stylish and educated customers to encourage new cuts, materials and style. Perhaps in 10 years this generation of online enthusiasts will have grown up, and things will be different.
I do know some very stylish young tailors, however. This may be a generational thing, or it may be that many of these young guys eventually leave bespoke for some other part of the fashion industry. Either way, their enthusiasm for bespoke clothing is often matched by a love of readymade clothing. The overarching passion for style is rarely limited to one genre.
Their thoughts on designers or high-street brands are particularly interesting for being informed by bespoke, and as a result we often have tastes in common. This is the first in a series of short interviews with young tailors and cutters, on Savile Row and abroad, on their style. My hope is that it will be particularly useful for readers who always ask, ‘what do you wear at the weekend?’
Acne: again well-tailored leathers and knits
Common Projects: leather sneakers I can wear with slim bespoke trousers without looking too sporty
John Smedley: they do a full buttoned-down polo shirt I absolutely adore and own in a couple of colours.
Simon, Really enjoyed this interview–he has great style. Would love to see a photo of him in his chalkstripe double breasted suit.
Michael was instrumental in cutting and fitting my Cad and the Dandy bespoke wedding suit this summer. It was a wonderful garment.
A couple of questions if you don’t mind: when Michael refers to the trouser ‘band’, what part of the trouser is this; and secondly what is a jodpur pocket?
Thank you and great interview.
The trouser band is the strip of cloth around the top of the trousers. Where your belt might go round if you wore won.
Look online for an image of a jodhpur pocket. It’s like a 60s-style frog-mouth pocket – though a little deeper than those are normally cut.
simon, what are your thoughts on watches? do you own expensive ones etc.
I own two good ones, a Cartier Tank and an IWC Portuguese, both gold cases, on tan and brown straps respectively. One for dress, one for casual. I saved up a long time for each, but I plan never to buy a watch again.
I’ll do a post about them sometime.
I really like the blue shirt Michael Browne is wearing, what the band shirt Michael Browne alway wearing?
I’ll ask Joseph, though I don’t think there’s anything particularly unusual about the shirts Michael wears.
What was it you liked about them particularly?
I like the neck collar band style and what is the best shirt band you like to wear?
There’s a lot around the site on shirts and their collars/bands. Have a read of pieces on Luca Avitabile (previously Satriano Cinque).
Best is a band that is proportionate to the neck, and remains cleanly above the jacket collar whether buttoned or not
Realise this is an old article, but just thought I’d add – Michael made my first ‘proper’ suit when he was at C&TD, about three years ago now. Quite a simple navy three-piece, but everything about it is incredibly elegant, and it fits me now better than ever. I’d love to have him make me another, but I’m afraid Chittleborough’s is a bit out of my range…
Has anyone heard anything, positive or negative, about Michael’s new shop?
Hi Jon,
I’ve visited and seen some of Michael’s ongoing work, if that’s helpful. It’s a nice lower-ground floor space on Berkeley Square, which Michael has decked out for him and an apprentice – lots of black.
The work seems as good as ever, lots of sharp lines and very precise cuts. He’s also doing some more with similar lines but softer construction.