The Armoury at the pop-up: College cardigan, ‘Marc’ coat and Real McCoy’s T-shirts

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Thursday, November 30th 2017
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The Armoury really inspired me (as it did many others) when it started out in Hong Kong, and I still get particularly excited about having them in the pop-up shop.

I was in there yesterday, looking through everything with Dick (Carroll, pictured bottom) who has come over from New York to manage it.

My favourites were the college cardigan, the Coherence-collab ‘Marc’ coat, and the Real McCoy’s-collab T-shirts.

The shawl-collar college cardigan (£342, above) is a new piece for The Armoury, aimed at emulating vintage varsity pieces.

It is cut relatively short and square, with a small shawl collar and big mother-of-pearl buttons. It’s lambswool, made in Scotland, and also has a long chunky rib on the cuff.

What sets it apart from the other shawl cardigans we know, however, is the finish of the bottom edge.

Here you’d normally have ribbing - as on the end of the sleeve - but instead it’s a clean, square line finished by folding back the knit.

A subtle difference, but one that immediately makes it feel more like outerwear, and recalls those old American college pieces. 

The ‘Marc’ (£2100, above) is an adapted version of the ‘Mutt’ by Coherence, with a simplified belt system and a few other changes.

The original had two buckles and other complications, and even this combines an inner catch, a nicely hidden button and then a single, central buckle.

The belt and waistline has also been lowered slightly, to modernise the shape (which was originally taken from a vintage dispatch coat) and a turn-back cuff added (which can easily be removed to alter the sleeve length). 

The core appeal for me is the lines of the Marc though - a raglan shoulder that runs up into a surprisingly striking collar, and then a belt that accentuates the length and wide skirt.

It’s striking but in the most pleasing and subtle of ways. Line, curve and proportion.

 

Lastly, I was intrigued to see the Real McCoy’s collab pieces, as I’ve long been a fan of the brand and its London store.

Unfortunately only the T-shirts (£90) are available in the pop-up (everything else is largely sold out), but they are enough to show an interesting melding of the Real McCoy’s approach and more modern, wearable styles.

I have a lovely loopback tee from Real McCoy’s but it is too thick to wear under anything; The Armoury is in a lighter cotton but still slubby and with body you rarely find in modern T-shirts.

The collar, equally, is thick but not so much you couldn’t wear it under knitwear. And while I’d always want a slimmer fit in the body, it’s not as wide or short as some vintage pieces either.

Elsewhere, The Armoury also have their new shoe line (around £450, made in Northampton, lasts by Yohei Fukuda) in a decent range of sizes, as well as the Citi Hunter jacket (£636) we featured last time in a new olive colour.

There are cardigans (merino and cashmere) cut in the house style - short, to go with high-waisted trousers - as well as shirts, lapel chains and the Frank Clegg collab bags.

Plus Ring Jacket sports jackets and trousers, Nakata hangers, and tweed safari shirts.

A lot, in other words.

Remember, the plan is for The Armoury only to be here until Sunday, with Drop93 swapping in next week. So not long!

More details on all these pieces on The Armoury website. Linked to in the text above.

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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Anonymous

Why do all of your posts contain so many moody face to camera or middle distance shots of you? Surely this is about the clothes and stuff not your face!

Anonymous

Some readers very much enjoy seeing Simon’s handsome face ;P

Jon

Which shawl cardigan do you tend to wear the most Simon?

Martin

I remember reading a comment you made some time ago about raglan shoulders looking formless, which is exactly my opinion, even if there may be practical reasons for using it (at least for coats). But lately you have featured more and more raglan shouldered pieces and I wonder if I just don´t remember correctly or if you changed your mind? I am asking because shoulder construction has been one of the most important points on this site, and for good reasons.

alex

Hi Simon
Thanks for this. Will the shoes from The Armoury still be there on Sunday, or are they leaving on Saturday?

I’m out of town, only returning on Sunday, and those shoes look *sensational*

Cheers, alex

Michael

Hi Simon,

I like your trousers in these pics.

Can you comment on the material at all and where it is from?

Thanks,
Michael

H

Great to see that the shoes are there after all in the end, I will have to somehow find time for a second visit to the shop this weekend to see them in person!

Gus Walbolt

The varsity inspired sweater is a great idea, especially how the bottom is finished but it’s just too short, in my opinion.

JB

Interesting, from the pictures I’d say the length is spot on, each to his own I guess.
What are your thoughts on Ring Jacket Simon? Would be interesting to hear, given their high praise in the small world of tailoring and menswear.

S

I assume that given this piece is inspired by vintage varsity pieces, the shorter length is also to accomodate the higher trouser rise that was common back then? Vintage Fair Isle sweaters etc are also usually shorter as they are only meant to extend slightly below the waistband of the trouser, which traditionally of course sat very close to the actual waist

S

Ian

I like that dark brown suit at the bottom of the article! What fabric is it? I would imagine bespoke in an Italian style, nice and casual.

Richard Carroll

Ian, Dick here from the picture, I’m glad you like the suit! It’s Tailor Caid, a bespoke Japanese tailor who we do trunk shows in New York with. I had it made up in a hefty brown cavalry twill from Dugdale. One of my favourite pieces.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

Who makes that denim shirt you are wearing under the cardigan?

Luca

Hi Simon, when it comes to T-shirts… The RealMcCoy vs Sunspel… What would your choice be? I find Sunspel slim fit hard to beat in terms of fit and quality (well, and price as well compared to the The RMC). I actually got to know Sunspel thanks to you and I love them! I believe The RMC is a better choice for a more casual look. Thanks.

Felix Eggert

Dear Simon,

Im looking for a white T-Shirt made of a heavy, heavy cotton in order to wear it seperately under a leather Jacket, think of James Dean or the aviator style.

What T-Shirt could you recommend? Would the armory one or one of the the Real McCoy’s ones be suited?

I own a Merz B. Schwanen one, which I am already quite satisfied with, even though it could even be a bit thicker for what I’m thinking. From what I remember, you are quite familier with Merz B. Schwanen. Hoes does the Armory one weight wise compare to Merz?

Thanks in advance.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,
what type of coat would you wear over such a chunky shawl-collar cardigan (or even a chunkier like Drake’s)? I find that it would bulk too much beneath any flattering or even tailored coat whilst being too warm beneath a proper e.g. down winter jacket. Thanks

Mansy

Picked up a t-shirt on Friday and love it. Thicker than some of my knitwear!

My only complaint is it should come with a complimentary pack of Marlboro to tuck into the chest pocket.

john

Hello Simon
Regarding the college cardigan I wonder if you had seen the Berk version? Its called the McQueen, in 4 ply cashmere and is number two on the Christmas wish list – after the PS raincoat. At £850 its almost as expensive as the raincoat – now what do I want more raincoat or cardigan? Head says raincoat but the heart is a strange thing.

Radin

Dear Simon
Would you please tell me what color ( shirts and shoes )will be match with steel blue trousers?

Shem

Hey Simon would the real McCoy t shirts by the armoury be cool enough in very humid weather given that it’s thick as in the description?

Shem

Thanks Simon. Do you have any recommendations for t shirts which may be thinner and wear cooler than these?

Patrick

Hi Simon,

Did you end up picking up the Coherence Marc?

I’m thinking of getting one! Would you say it’s a versatile piece? I’m hoping to wear it casually as well as over tailoring..

Pat

Hey Simon

Thought I’ll let you know the Coherence Marc in medium is back in stock!