The Armoury: Do you know about the trousers?

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For many reasons - personal, business, product, sheer beauty of execution - I’ve long been a fan of The Armoury.

They were therefore one brand I was particularly excited to get into our Savile Row pop-up shop.

However, the things I wanted to feature weren’t perhaps the most obvious.

Yes, there are some Frank Clegg bags (totes and garment carriers that use a hardy and waterproof sun-umbrella canvas alongside the leather).

Yes, there are the instantly recognisable Armoury lapel chains (in a variety of designs and finishes).

And yes, there is an actual Ortus folio case - in deep-brown calf with green stitching.

But I wanted to get in the trousers. More specifically, the chinos and the jeans.

I picked up a pair of Armoury chinos in New York over a year ago, and they have quickly become my favourite casual trousers.

Made in Hong Kong from a sturdy cotton twill, they wear in beautifully (akin to denim) and are now incredibly comfortable.

They have a high rise and a relatively wide leg - for me, to wear with knitwear and trainers therefore, not a jacket and dress shoes.

And they are in the shop in tan, green and navy.

The jeans are a little more complicated. Also made in Hong Kong, from Japanese denim, there are two styles: the ‘bar tack’ and ‘sixties’ styles.

The former (shown above) is a once-washed denim, has a straight leg, and sits just above the hips. Named after the crossed bar tacks on the top corners of its back pockets, it is perhaps a more conventional modern jean.

It also comes in a white denim.

The ‘sixties’ style is more unusual, and more me. It is made in a raw denim and has a high rise - which is much more useful with tailoring - and a slightly wider leg.

That leg, though, is still relatively narrow and it’s the jean I would pick to wear with a soft-shouldered jacket.

Which segues into… the range of soft to very-soft navy jackets in the store that, frankly, would fit the lifestyle of any man, no matter how formal or casual.

There are three Drake’s jackets - a navy hopsack jacket, a navy tweed jacket and a navy jersey - and then the Armoury Teba jacket, which is the most casual of the lot (above - and known as 'The City Hunter').

A full range, from smart to sweater.

The City Hunter, by the way, is a real upgrade on a normal Teba jacket, blending the style with Japanese fabric and construction. 

The wool/cashmere mix has a luxurious feel with ample stretch from the jersey knit. And it uses a 'seamless' technique to join parts (such as the shoulder) where the body presses against the garment, removing any extra thickness that would normally be created by the seam.

These are the last few the Armoury has, but more are coming (in the navy and an olive colour) in May. I'd also recommend sizing down - I wear a 46 (size 36 chest) in it. 

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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Anonymous

Hi Simon
What are the trouser prices (and do you have any photos of the chinos?)
And please can you have a link displaying your hours?

Anonymous

Im looking for a great pair of Raw Denim that I can break in and mould to me, used to love PRPS which are now very difficult to find and these look great. I went to the website but there was no information there…? where can I buy outside of London HKG and NY

Anonymous

Those tebas are beautiful, how much are they?

Anonymous

Simon
do you know what the weight of these teba jackets were? Or what weight a cloth needs to be if I were to commission? Would 10 oz be too little?

Anonymous

Great thanks. Would 11/12 be ok for summery? sorry for posting here btw, always difficult to know where!

Anonymous

Do you know who makes drakes jackets? Or is it a trade secret

Michael H

Hi there – this whole shop idea is great – sadly being in Australia will just have to make do with these posts. I was wondering if you could expand on/clarify this comment: “They have a high rise and a relatively wide leg – for me, to wear with knitwear and trainers therefore, not a jacket and dress shoes.”

Daniel

Seeking clarification on the Drake’s jackets: The hopsack one you are carrying, is that the one Drake’s call the “Basketweave”? And the lovely thick textured one in the last photo, behind the brown glen check, is that the tweed?

Daniel

Have you compared their washed cashmere in navy with the other three?

Maximilian

I bought a pair of the chinos last month in HK, and they are perfect. They also work well with rugged boots. Haven’t tried it yet but could imagine they might work well with a neapolitanean tweed jacket…

I haven’t washed mine yet and are a bit scared about that. How do you wash yours? And did you experience any shrinkage?

Pat

Hi Simon. How much are the lapel chains?

BC

Hi Simon, how would the Armoury chinos compare with those of Incotex? Same price point I believe as well.

Martin

Simon, could you please quantify the difference between this higher rise and a regular one? And how wide are the legs? I could not find this information on the Armoury site. And do you adjust the lenght of your trousers to the width or all the same lenghtwise?

Dan

Hi Simon, do you take your regular size in the chinos? Since they run full, The Armoury suggest taking a size down as a possible alternative to your regular size.

Are

Hi!

Do you keep a selection of shoes (samples) from Stefano Bemer at the store? And if so, is it possible to order?

Are

That´s too bad. However, I am visiting London next weekend and will be visiting the store. Are you going to be there on Friday or Saturday during the opening hours?

Also, do you stock the peacoat from Drakes?

Bruno

Hi Simon,
I’m interested by the Franck Clegg tote bag above and I unfortunately can’t find it on their website. Would it be possible to tell how much is it and if it would be possible to have it sent in the EU?
Thanks you very much!

Dan P

Are you also carrying the brown Drake’s glen check jacket (seen in the photo above)? How would you wear it?