What does a green shirt (and a brown stripe) go with?
I really love playing with new colours in clothing. It’s like a fun little exercise in how much you know about what goes with what - how far you’ve come in your menswear journey.
Yet at the same time, I also find it consistently throws up surprises. You try the combinations that you think will work first, and then somewhere along the line an entirely new one suggests itself - you try that too, and like it more than you thought you would.
As readers will know, I also don’t wear much colour, at least strong colour. Compare my wardrobe to most of the lookbooks of Drake’s or J Press, and I look extremely sober. So perhaps I enjoy these exercises because it’s a particular challenge to find ways I do like colours.
The new green oxford shirt we’ve done this winter is a case in point. I’ve never owned one because I thought the colour was more suited to those brighter styles - perhaps more straight preppy wardrobes.
But so many readers asked for a green in the PS cloth (our exclusive one - vintage, tough, made to emulate old Brooks Brothers) that I made a sample earlier this year and had great fun playing with it.
The most famous reference for a green oxford shirt is Miles Davis, on the cover of the album Milestones (shown above, and also one of my favourite jazz albums - the first great quintet going hard).
Miles looks great of course, but I was never sure that colour would work on me - being a different skin tone, not sitting in a studio, and most of all not Miles Davis.
But it turns out yes, it can work, particularly in the very muted green of the PS ones (the same as the stripe used previously). Perhaps it’s best to call the colour ‘mint’, as that suggests something of its faded look.
So what does the mint work well with? Well, first off, it’s great with blue denim. Always helpful given how much we wear it, and nearly always the case with colours like this. It’s my favourite thing to wear with yellow oxfords as well.
The mint is good with blue and darker denim, but lighter tones work especially well.
That shot above also shows how good these colours are with tan, like that vintage lizard belt (bought recently at Stella Dallas in New York). Mid-browns are good as well, but again like denims, lighter browns and tan are particularly pleasing.
But what on top? Well, first the green is great with textured greys, like my grey herringbone tweed jacket above.
And it’s good with navy, like the cashmere jacket in the second image. So navy and grey - two menswear staples, that’s helpful.
How about the less formal and more rural colours, like brown or green? Green is obviously going to be a challenge, and this does struggle. I tried some tonal green combinations but it always looks rather sickly - browns are a lot easier for that kind of thing.
But the green is nice with dark browns, like the knit above. I think it helps that the green is so pale and the brown so dark.
This green is also good with faded black jeans, but perhaps that belongs in the grey category above.
Lastly, I love this green shade with pops of bright yellow, such as the old Trunk tote I’m carrying in the second image above. Other bright colours like red and purple are nice too, but yellow is my favourite.
It’s such fun playing with these combinations - and so much easier experimenting with something cheaper like a shirt, rather than a jacket or a cashmere sweater. Men’s outfits often look more elegant this way - with the colour on the inner layer rather than the outer - but it’s also helpful that it’s a cheaper way to experiment.
The other new oxford colour - the brown stripe above - is more straightforward, but still it’s more useful than I had thought.
(If it seems, by the way, like all our product experiments work out well, that’s only because we don’t write about the failures. After all it’s only the ones that work which people can buy. Although I guess looking at the failures might make for an interesting article some day.)
A brown-striped oxford is not a common or obvious choice, but when you wear a lot of ‘cold colour’ combinations, containing a lot of charcoal, black, cream, dark olive and so on, a brown stripe is useful.
I often wear black jeans with jackets in dark navy, grey or murky green, for instance. In that combination a white shirt works well, but it’s a little stark against the black jeans (particularly when I take the jacket off).
So a brown stripe is great, softening the white as well as providing some pattern - something I often lack in such outfits.
That’s what I’m wearing in the outfit shots above, and it’s become a bit of a default for me with black jeans.
The brown is not a strong colour, like all the PS oxfords. In fact it could even read as a grey - just one with a touch of richness, like a dark navy jacket compared to a black one.
Of course a pale-blue stripe would work as well, but the brown is a little more interesting and unusual. In fact, the green/mint is the same - a pale blue would always be easier in those colour combinations I listed, but it would also be more normal and everyday.
I would always recommend a reader to have a blue or blue/white oxford shirt in their wardrobe first, but when they want something different, these are both great options.
The green and brown-stripe oxford shirts are available here. There will be cloth available in both too, but not for a few weeks, that's arriving separately.
Other clothes shown are:
- Assisi grey-tweed jacket
- Assisi navy-cashmere jacket
- Permanent Style cashmere rugby, brown
- Vintage Levi’s 501 jeans
- Vintage lizard belt
- Ludens alligator belt
- Trunk tote bag (colour no longer sold)
Pictured below: the new 'natural' colours in the Arran Scarf and Indulgent Shawl-Collar Cardigan, which were also added to the shop recently
I often wear my Miles Davis style green Oxford with a mid-grey tropical wool suit and a black silk knit tie. Too 60s? Sue me.
Lucky you! I once experiment with a modern brook brothers green
linen oxford. The result was so awkward I almost lost faith in wearing green and made up my mind that green shirt is something only artists or masteroes in other fields can pull off!
I had a guy in Huntsman years ago, might well have been Brian Lishak, when Huntsman was the real deal, suggest a green shirt with a tweed jacket. I think the combination was with a scarlet waistcoat and maybe a gun club pattern jacket…. I can’t quite remember….hey, I do like a green shirt though… maybe a very light and colder and muted …even a little greyish green… with a grey herringbone. I like the example of the Assisi grey herringbone and green shirt shown above. I don’t like light blues that lean to a turquoise hue though. I had one in the past and it was horrible and garish.
I presume that indeed a grey jacket can accommodate quite a wide range of shirt colours because of the neutrality of the grey jacket?
Yes, very true
Hadn’t noticed these new colours on the shop. Both are really nice. Is the fabric going to be available to purchase separately or are you doing these colours in RWT shirts only?
Good point, I should have mentioned that. Yes there will be cloth, that’s just not arrived yet.
Hi Simon.
These look really interesting and it’s always good to go a bit away from the mainstream colour choices. I admire two types of dressing with colour: ‘Normal’ choices made interesting with accessories that make them slightly quirky and ‘unusual’ choices made to look low key as you have here.
Will these be available as a fabric option?
Best wishes N
Thanks Nigel – yes they will be, we’re waiting for a separate delivery of that
Will the new brown stripe be available as a fabric or only as RTW shirts?
Yes, fabric too – mentioned in comments above
Hey Simon, have the PS Oxford shirts always been cut a bit larger to accommodate the shrinkage?
I purchased the blue and original stripe years ago, which are a great fit, however I can’t recall if they were made a bit bigger back then.
The new brown stripe looks great and am debating on size!
Yes, they’ve always been made a little bigger to account for shrinkage. All our shirts are made to fit the same, no matter who the supplier is, but the oxfords have some shrinkage while the others don’t. So we cut them a little bigger and after a couple of washes they will fit the same as the others
so the size S of this would be very similar to the size S of your recent 100hands denim shirts a few months in terms of fit after a few wash
Yes, it should be the same
I think you chose a great shade of green for this shirt. I have experimented a couple of times in my life with darker shirts and I always come to the conclusion that shirts in lighter shades are much easier to combine.
Thanks
Simon, are you planning to restock the pink Oxford soon? It is my favorite of the Oxford range. Thanks, Charles
We plan to early next year, yes
Have your oxfords in the other colours, so will hold off for the time being. Really beautiful and might be tempted at some point.
Is your grey herringbone db coat coming back this season?
Hi James,
Yes it is. Stock was a little delayed, but should be here in one or two weeks.
Hi Simon!
I noticed you cling more as lately to the casual side wearing a lot of denim and casual shirts and jacket.Is there a style change involved with the times asking for more informal dressing or exploration of new directions,also gotta ask would you recommend this kind of style for a college teacher look?
Thanks!
Hey Ned,
Yes that’s fair, I’ve moved in that direction (as has everyone to an extent). I have written about this a few times – eg see here.
Yes I think this is nice for a college teacher. Depends on the place exactly and what they expect, but a way you can combine casual, relaxed things with pieces of tailoring that show you’re not actually a student, is usually perfect
I love the brown striped shirt. Would it work with dark green corduroy’s? Or would the darkness of the stripe blend in too much? On a completely separate note, will there be a restock of the blue and white PS oxfords? Thanks
We have actually also restocked the classic oxfords. They should be on now.
The brown stripe would be nice with a really dark green cord, yes. The stripe is not that dark
Would the mint shirt work well with a cream cardigan, like the Begg cable knit one?
Yes I think so
I believe Simon talks about this specific colour combination in his “What I really wore from home”. Light Green Needlecord shirt, Cream Cardigan. Also mentioning that this colour of shirt was hard to combine.
I might read this blog to obsessively…
Ha! Never Johannes, that’s not possible.
Thank you, very helpful
Hi Simon,
Another very useful article that also demonstrates a key strength of your blog. Fielding new ideas and thinking for inspiration. As we have corresponded many times over the years I have taken much on board (especially a M-65 with flannels!).
You are quite right, Miles Davies is Miles Davies and it illustrates the key part personality plays in style.
I remember you writing once that when you see something you like on a model, put your finger over the face to focus on the content. Hence the pictures here although not all to my taste (I struggle a little with brown having started wearing ‘fashion’ in the seventies!) are very useful.
Perhaps we are due a technical background article soon!?
All the best.
Thanks Stephen, and good point on the finger over the face!
What do you mean by a technical background article sorry?
Sorry should have been clearer. Things like “ CASUAL CRAFT: HOW A REAL MCCOY’S LEATHER JACKET IS MADE” , factory visits that sort of thing. Although I may be in a minority on that.
All the best.
Aha, sure thanks for the vote and I will try and do something along those lines soon
Thank you for the article. Are the Ludens belts available for sale?
Only through Brycelands in Tokyo currently as far as I know.
I think it would be nice for the next color to be a reverse stripe in blue and white. It’s quite different from the ones you have made but still among the most useful.
Thank you Gabriele, yes that’s on the list!
Drake’s had something like this a while back. Blue background with a slightly (double spaced) gap between the white stripes.
I’ll second that!
Another vote here. Luca sells one RTW, but presumably not in the PS Oxford cloth. https://www.lucavitabile.it/product/washed-oxford-reverse-stripe/
I think this could be a new segment on the site. Challenge Simon. (No helicopter required). Readers send in requests for ideas of how to wear items they’ve purchased that they have no idea how to wear. I’ll go first. I bought a burgundy/white candy stripe shirt from D’Avino about 5 years ago. I think I’ve worn it twice. I did the usual thing of buying some blue, some white (some denim, thanks to you) and then when I was thinking how to make the order minimum up (5 shirts at the time) I clocked the candy stripe and stupidly said “I’ll have one of those too”. I’ve never found a look I like with it. If only I’d read your ‘if you only have 5 shirts’ article first…!
Ha! Well to be fair, you did buy sensible things first…
So with strong colour, my first suggestion is always mid-grey. How does the shirt look with a pair of mid-grey flannels for instance?
Also, look out for an article coming soon from Lucas on patterned shirts…
As soon as you said this, I saw an image on Die Workwear of almost the exact shirt with grey trousers. Great idea. Should have tried it myself. Not sure I’m allowed to post images from another blog but just censor it if so. Image from DW attached. I’ll be copying this look sometime soon…
Thanks James. And yes you certainly are, particularly if it’s Derek
Hi Simon: lots of comments about restocking. Any plans to restock the new PS natural color shawl in XXL? Many thanks.
Hey Howie,
I’m afraid not, that was our delivery for this winter
Sorry, meant XL
That mint green color is still rather conservative and not much of a risk. The stripe is very narrow and the green very light. If you truly want to go crazy and take a risk with green, make yourself a green Bengal striped shirt.
Are you modeling the RTW or are these bespoke? I noticed the spalla camicia sleeve. If bespoke, may I ask who the maker is? Thanks.
Good point – these are bespoke, but still made by Luca Avitabile
It would be nice if it were possible to have that lovely mint cloth available to have it made up by a shirt maker eg. Luca when he is in London or even T&A if they allow it.
I’m size 18 collar and 50” chest….
Hey Lindsay – yes, as mentioned in the comments above, cloth is coming soon.
On others and whether they will accept the cloth, tell them it is from Canclini (the maker) and I’m sure they’ll be fine with it. Usually they’re just nervous about a cloth they don’t know, but if they know the mill it’s fine
Very interesting indeed. The same with good tailors also. A&S won’t accept cloth that they are not familiar with unless they inspect it first…and rightly so.
Many thanks Simon!
Certainly both useful for me as part of a bigger combination.
I prefer stronger colours,and ,yes, I own various greens (and lime ), purples and blues. Always in a casual setting and often paired with black or grey jeans.
Admittedly, I have to choose the moment to deploy ‘the colour’. However, usually to the approval of my wife and her friends.
Not related to this post, but FYI, when you click on the 40 Colori ad on your sidebar, it links to Arterton — not 40 Colori.
Oh dear, thank you BB, we’ll correct that
Just took delivery of a brown striped made to measure shirt to wear with grey suits and navy suits/blazers for the autumn and more formal scenes. I’m hoping to pair it with dark navy patterned and solid brown ties. There are still scenes and countries (Japan) where ties and suits are expected and accepted so while I love the idea of a brown OCBD but would not work business and party wise not for me not at the moment anyway.
I love the shade of brown you chose. The green isn’t quite my colour, but it’s still nice. In these photos it looks more cyan than green.
Miles had fantastic style in the 1950s and 1960s. However, I wonder if he was wearing a green shirt at all in that album cover photo, and if it was green how close the shade that we see is to the reality of it. It looks like that was a black and white photo that was colourised judging by how flat the colours are. The green shirt is a good choice in the composition of the album cover.
I recently bought a striped green OCBD from Proper Cloth and have yet to wear it (inspired by… Miles Davis, you guessed it. I picked striped because I tend to wear stripes more because they seem less formal to me). It definitely reads more green than the PS shirt! It may be relegaded to just jeans, which makes sense but is kinda disappointing, but I’m also wondering what color tie/jacket/trousers you wear would wear with a striped green OCBD? Ideally in a very classically Ivy Style way! Cheers.
Yes, our green is more muted than most.
That stripe should be fairly easy to wear though. I’d try most things you’d wear a blue stripe with and see how you like the variation. It should be especially nice with autumnal colours like browns, greens, reds etc though
I would be quite interested to hear which ideas didn’t make the cut sometime. Though I’m sure you’d have a lot of people thinking that some of them sound great
Yes there is that risk! But thank you Markus
Is this green the same yarn as used in the green striped oxford? I have that one and it’s really fantastic how the green isn’t too bright.
Thanks. Yes it is the same
Hi Simon,
I’ve just looked at the pages for the brown stripe cloth on your store, and it appears that the images are wrong. They’re showing the green stripe!
Oh dear, I’ll fix that. Thanks Matt
This oxford cloths are great and I hope you keep developing more.
If I can throw in my two cents, a think a very pale lavender would be nice. Most of the lavender OCBDs out there are much too strong in color. I had an old shirt by Gant in a very pale lavender – that color between light blue and lilac, which could almost be mistaken for a light blue depending on the pairing. It would probably have a similar application as the mint, being good with summer colors but also nice with charcoal, black, and navy.
Thanks Anton
Hi Simon, I had a question regarding not the BD’s but the spread collars you wear. I also added a photo from your instagram. When you go without tie, your spread collars open up really nice. The collar really moves ‘away’ from your jaw and face, creating a very nice frame.
With most of guys wearing spread collars without a tie, the collar stays really close to the face and it doesn’t really ‘open up’, as shown in the 2nd and 3rd photo. It looks awkward and I feel the collar doesn’t do what its intended to do. It looks a bit stuffy and not as elegant. I see this all the time, as well with employees in higher end formal clothing stores. I will add a image in a new comment as I can only attach 1.
What’s the reason your open spread collars look this way? I know you prefer fused collars to make that nice S roll. But I think that doesn’t explain why the collars open up and sit away from the face so nicely. I noticed your collar points start further on the front band, making the collar look higher from the front. Are the collar points shorter? I don’t think so, because they always stay nicely under the jacket lapel. Is it your thicker neck that somehow anatomically creates this effect? Haha
Hey Kenneth,
It’s using a light fusing, yes, and then it’s about the collar getting that bit of an S roll and opening up during the day. It should happen naturally as you push against the collar and it is pushed against the lapel of the jacket. However, you can also just mould it in your fingers a little to accelerate that
Here the 2nd image