The (20) bespoke shoemakers I have known
The Ugolini workshop in Florence This article was originally written in 2014, then updated in 2021, and is now freshly updated for 2026. It feels like a good time to do so – I have four new shoemakers to add, but no plans to try new ones so...
The (20) bespoke shoemakers I have known
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Thanks, yes I agree...
Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes
As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...
Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes
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Because the styles haven't really attracted me and I've had some quite poor reports on fit from friends...
How shoes should fit
I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A shoe should be tight at the ...
How shoes should fit
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Hey Roger, To be honest I don't think about it, but that's probably partly because it becomes less relevant the more you know your own feet when you try things on. It's also just always going to be the case that brands v...
Bespoke Santoni shoes – Fatto a Mano Su Misura
Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I’m happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is wider than any other shoema...
Bespoke Santoni shoes – Fatto a Mano Su Misura
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No, I'm saying the measurements encompass that balance, as in my jacket example. Anyway, I think this is probably getting too technical to be of much use....
Santoni shoes
It might be surprising to see Santoni here. Their aesthetic is not of the kind normally featured on Permanent Style – a little too bright perhaps, a little too brash. But Santoni deserves a few words in its defence. It is a great company,...
Santoni shoes
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I like and own many Santoni, they produce different type of models from the Northampton guys. As reference, I own several, Church’s, Zegna, Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, O’Keeffe, and other brands, I know, I will get s...
Luxury hiking boots in the FT
My latest article in the Financial Times, on luxury hiking boots, was published this weekend. If you’re interested, the post can be found here.
Luxury hiking boots in the FT
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Please print this disclaimer: Do NOT NOT Not use any of these boots for actual backpacking or "hill walking". Go to a genuine outdoor outfitter for real boots. The boots shown are fashion statements only, and serious use...

























