The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

March 10th 2021

  This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider – also encompassing some semi-be...

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

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I think that's fine - I'd certainly happily spend more on an overcoat than on shoes. However, that's in large part based on my experience of bespoke shoes, which has been patchy - see article here....

ShoesMarch 10th 2021

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

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Hi Simon, thanks for sharing. You make an interesting point: “[Oxford] is more formal than a derby and goes with anything up to chinos and jeans.” Could you please tell how oxford shoes can be paired with jeans and c...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

How shoes should fit

May 7th 2015

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A shoe should be tight at the ...

How shoes should fit

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It's hard to tell remotely Ayush - it could be related to your foot moving in or out around the heel of the shoe, or perhaps the shank inside the shoe having moved slightly. You're best asking a shoemaker or cobbler...

ShoesMay 7th 2015

Bespoke Santoni shoes – Fatto a Mano Su Misura

March 11th 2015

Yes, Santoni does bespoke. Or close enough that I’m happy to give it that label. Italian colour-meisters Santoni will do a bespoke version of most shoes in their collection (which of course changes more and is wider than any other shoema...

Bespoke Santoni shoes – Fatto a Mano Su Misura

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No, I'm saying the measurements encompass that balance, as in my jacket example. Anyway, I think this is probably getting too technical to be of much use....

ShoesMarch 11th 2015

Santoni shoes

February 9th 2015

It might be surprising to see Santoni here. Their aesthetic is not of the kind normally featured on Permanent Style – a little too bright perhaps, a little too brash. But Santoni deserves a few words in its defence. It is a great company,...

Santoni shoes

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I like and own many Santoni, they produce different type of models from the Northampton guys. As reference, I own several, Church’s, Zegna, Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, O’Keeffe, and other brands, I know, I will get s...

ShoesFebruary 9th 2015

Luxury hiking boots in the FT

December 10th 2013

My latest article in the Financial Times, on luxury hiking boots, was published this weekend. If you’re interested, the post can be found here.

Luxury hiking boots in the FT

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Please print this disclaimer: Do NOT NOT Not use any of these boots for actual backpacking or "hill walking". Go to a genuine outdoor outfitter for real boots. The boots shown are fashion statements only, and serious use...

ShoesDecember 10th 2013