The Italian handmade shirt

April 26th 2021

  Many countries still make shirts by hand, including in Spain with the likes of Burgos and, further afield, someone like 100 Hands in India. But it is Italy that has really kept the flame alive. Indeed, it’s one of the most most surpr...

The Italian handmade shirt

Match in comments:
Same answer as on the Clutch post!...

ShirtsApril 26th 2021

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

February 5th 2021

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

Match in comments:
Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 5th 2021

My shirt collars

January 27th 2021

  When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly as we&rsqu...

My shirt collars

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Nice to hear Alexander...

Shirts - January 27th 2021

The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style

January 18th 2021

  At our Ivy Style Symposium two years ago, I said I thought that this most American of fashions was particularly suited to our times. My opinion has only been reinforced since then. The collegiate attitude of casually throwing on a mix of ...

The Ivy League shirt: History, traditions and style

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I think it is a little culturally specific as well Joe - at a big law firm or bank in London it might not seem quite right. Plus of course it helps if it's a finer oxford, not unlined and so on...

ShirtsJanuary 18th 2021

Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns

January 1st 2021

  The next chapter in our Shirt Style series is on checks and related patterns. The first, looking at stripes , was surprisingly popular. I always imagined this type of article would be most useful in the long term – as a piece t...

Check mate! A guide to checked shirt patterns

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My wife(who knows these things) pointed out this blog. It gives a little of the history of madras before Brooks Brothers. https://blog.marasim.co/fascinating-madras-checks-fabric/...

ShirtsJanuary 1st 2021

New Friday Polos – black and green (and men...

December 28th 2020

Shipping and production have not been entirely straightforward in recent weeks, as anyone following the chaotic clash of Covid and Brexit in the UK will be aware. But I’m glad to say we've been able to restock the Friday Polos - still the mos...

New Friday Polos – black and green (and men...

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I haven't, sorry John, but yes that's a nice idea for a future piece...

ShirtsDecember 28th 2020

Shirt style: Structure and lining, types and trad...

December 4th 2020

  The next stage in our Guide to Shirts – after the recent pieces on collars and cuffs – is to compare different approaches brands take to the styles of their shirts. There are a few different aspects of this, including:...

Shirt style: Structure and lining, types and trad...

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Nice to hear Peter, thanks...

ShirtsDecember 4th 2020

Introducing: The yellow PS Oxford (shirt and fabric)

November 13th 2020

A reader gently mocked me when I wrote about the white version of this shirt and included styling advice. It's a white shirt after all - how hard can it be? I still defend that guidance: a white oxford is more useful than some people realise, parti...

Introducing: The yellow PS Oxford (shirt and fabric)

Match in comments:
Jackson, Simon, I'll chime in if I may. I've had a fair few Merz B sweatshirts in a range of colours. I still enjoy wearing them, however some have stretched a bit too much and have been relegated to 'work around the hou...

ShirtsNovember 13th 2020

Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns

October 7th 2020

  With men wearing fewer ties with their jackets these days, shirts carry more of the burden in creating style and interest. Of course, there is another way to look at it, which is that we have more freedom. Suddenly those bold patterns tha...

Name that stripe! A guide to shirt stripe patterns

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I'm not sure I can imagine that looking good I'm afraid, unless it was a very 80s style...

ShirtsOctober 7th 2020

The Guide to Shirt Cuffs

September 14th 2020

  This is the second in our series looking at style aspects of shirts. As with the previous one – on shirt collars – it will focus on sensible advice, rather than illustrating the myriad gimmicks with which menswear seems...

The Guide to Shirt Cuffs

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Button and buttonhole...

ShirtsSeptember 14th 2020

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

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I haven't tried it, but yes it would...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

The guide to shirt collars – and what suits...

August 31st 2020

  With the slow disappearance of the tie from the male wardrobe, the shirt collar has become increasingly important. It now bears almost sole responsibility for framing and flattering the face. However, guides to shirt collars – s...

The guide to shirt collars – and what suits...

Match in comments:
Ah, I see Amrinder. If it's that kind of smart event then a button down shirt is not really ideal. But it sounds like there's not much you can do about it...

ShirtsAugust 31st 2020

Pink PS Oxford shirts available

August 10th 2020

What can I say about PS Oxford cloth at this point? I've gone through the reasons I like it so many times, most obviously in posts introducing the blue , striped and white versions. So this time I thought it might be good to focus on what customers...

Pink PS Oxford shirts available

Match in comments:
Yes certainly, and the other colours apart from perhaps black. Do have a look at the ensemble yourself though (in a mirror or laid out on a bed) and see which you like together the most...

ShirtsAugust 10th 2020

The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...

July 17th 2020

One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...

The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...

Match in comments:
Mostly the style...

Shirts - SuitsJuly 17th 2020

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

July 15th 2020

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

Match in comments:
Sure Chris. It's not something I wear outside of the house - but I presume that's what you mean? I wear Belgian loafers, or Sagans, but not really slippers...

Casual clothing - CoatsJuly 15th 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

Match in comments:
Oh good. Helps when you've been there!...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

The cream shirt

May 11th 2020

There is a certain type of gentleman who swears by the cream shirt. Who argues passionately for its elegance over that boring, corporate alternative: white. When I say there is a type, I am basing this on three men, all of an older generation, who ...

The cream shirt

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Love a cream shirt, moreso an off-white/ivory shirt with just a hint of yellowing, I've heard the terms used interchangeably. Great for when I'm not sure if I want a white or blue shirt. People say cream shirts work bett...

ShirtsMay 11th 2020

Introducing: The Madras linen

March 13th 2020

There is a certain preponderance among men to order bespoke shirts in loud checks. This must be the case, because most patterned materials offered for bespoke are bright and loud. Even though the ones available in a mill’s full collection - o...

Introducing: The Madras linen

Match in comments:
Yes, we have reordered it so it should be in fairly soon. As ever, waiting list with the support team is the best way to get first notification...

ShirtsMarch 13th 2020

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

January 13th 2020

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

Match in comments:
Perfect, thanks Simon! I guess you can't go wrong with a white shirt!...

ShirtsJanuary 13th 2020

The guide to winter shirt fabrics

January 3rd 2020

  I’m a relatively new convert to winter shirts. Although I’ve had brushed cottons in the past (such as my grey made by Simone Abbarchi, above) it’s only this season that I’ve started wearing heavier flannels and cor...

The guide to winter shirt fabrics

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In that respect yes, though the colour would make a big difference as well obviously...

Cloth - ShirtsJanuary 3rd 2020

The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting

November 29th 2019

I recently went to see Wil Whiting's studio for the first time. Wil and I have chatted many times in recent years, but this was the first time I'd been to see where he works. Wil has proved himself a talented shirtmaker, despite only four years sin...

The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting

Match in comments:
I really can't say, given I haven't had anything made particularly. I can only speak to the work involved...

ShirtsNovember 29th 2019

The polo shirt under knitwear

November 27th 2019

I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters. Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt. It’s the reason I sometimes we...

The polo shirt under knitwear

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Spread. I find it sits better myself...

Shirts - StyleNovember 27th 2019

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019

October 23rd 2019

Welcome to our small but regular selection of interesting things this Autumn/Winter. As ever, this is a highly personal list, which makes it both idiosyncratic and entirely without commercial angle - no one can ever and will ever be able to pay to a...

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019

Match in comments:
I haven't seen that one in person. It looks nice though...

Knitwear - ShirtsOctober 23rd 2019

The (21) shirtmakers I have known

October 9th 2019

Three years ago, I wrote a post called ‘ The tailors I have known'. The idea was to provide a single reference point for anyone to get a run down on everyone I had tried - and links to more detail. A reader recently commented that it would be...

The (21) shirtmakers I have known

Match in comments:
No, I haven't asked in a while I'm afraid, or had something made. You'd be better off asking him...

ShirtsOctober 9th 2019

The guide to denim and chambray shirtings

September 16th 2019

  A denim or chambray shirt can be great with tailoring. Perhaps more than anything else, they have the ability to subvert its corporate, even dandy associations. They reliably give the appearance of being both casual and practical. The two ...

The guide to denim and chambray shirtings

Match in comments:
Originally David, yes, but as I say the term chambray is also used today for a wider variety of materials, and there are certainly heavier weight and 2-ply chambrays out there. Also, a chambray can be heavier but single ...

ShirtsSeptember 16th 2019