Following our recent project with Italian tiemaker Passaggio Cravatte, I’m pleased to offer the second iteration of this collaboration, focusing on regimental ties. (You can see the samples at the bottom of the post.)
For anyone who missed the first project, Passaggio Cravatte is a young tiemaking company based just outside Milan, but using a workshop in Naples to make lightweight ties very much redolent of that region. They specialise in multifold, lightly lined ties that tie a beautiful knot but sit gently on the wearer. I particularly recommend both four fold and seven-fold varieties.
Passaggio also differentiates itself by working with vintage and vintage-inspired silks. This offering of regimental-striped ties on Permanent Style comes in two varieties: vintage Italian silks, of which only one multifold tie can be made per silk, and English silks that have been recreated by Passaggio based on old regimental patterns. These are not old, but they are unique to Passaggio and are a much more contemporary take on the same ethos. As you can probably discern from the images, the actual vintage silks have a slightly larger weave and matte finish. The recreated English patterns are smoother and finer.
We are also differentiating this second project in another way: making the ties out of only two pieces of silk. Every mass-produced modern tie is made out of three pieces, at the front, back, and a small strip in the middle. It’s much easier to cut it this way and you waste less silk. We wish to set our ties apart by using only two pieces. There is no practical benefit to it. It is, in a sense, needless. But it is an artisanal detail we wish to recreate for the sheer sake of the craft.
Using just two pieces is more expensive. You can order any of the ties below in three pieces if you prefer, for 45 euros less. We do not wish to impose, merely to propose.
The prices with a two-piece construction are:
Classic three fold: €165
Four fold: €185
Seven fold: €215
As with the first offer, ties can be tipped or untipped. For untipped ties, add €5.
All orders should be made to my address, [email protected], and payment will be made to Gianni at Passaggio on confirmation of the order. He only accepts bank transfers for payment, and will confirm postage costs. Postage by UPS to the US is normally around €50 (in the Passaggio box). Details of width and length can also be confirmed with Gianni at that point.
The first offer sold out, barring two slightly more adventurous patterns, within a week. And everyone seemed to be happy with results. Some feedback from those:
“My Passaggio ties came in today. Fantastic!”
“I am delighted with the finished tie, even better than I imagined! Both the material and the finishing are exceptional, thank you. I will be back for more.”
“Great to have access to limited silks in this way. And reading about them beforehand gave such an insight into the process. Thank you.”
Italian regimentals
It 1
It 2
It 3 – SOLD OUT
It 4 – SOLD OUTEnglish regimentals
E1
E2
E3
E4
E5
E6
E7
E8
Just out of curiosity, is there any benefit, either practical or pertaining to craft, to an untipped tie?
Practically, no. In terms of craft, yes, in that it means the bottom edge of the tie has to be carefully rolled over and hand sewn, in the same way a fine handkerchief is. Aesthetically there is that, plus the fact you see the reverse of the silk, perhaps creating the feeling of a closer connection to this lovely material wrapped around your neck
I was brought up with the idea that I shouldn’t wear any tie that might be a regimental/school/club tie unless I was certain I was entitled to wear it and I’ve always thought better safe than sorry on the matter. Just wondering what your thoughts are on that?
I think the reference these days is so rare that it’s not really an issue, particularly so with regimentals this old