This is a jacket from Liverano & Liverano, Florence. Readers of the Armoury’s excellent Tumblr account will be familiar with various Liverano jackets, but this was my first experience of the Liverano cut.

Although it has many things in common with other north Italian tailoring, such as the construction that sits squarely between Savile Row and Naples, and the former’s traditional shoulder and seams, Liverano is also noticeably different in a few areas.

The jacket tends to be cut rather short, with most of the length coming off the skirt rather than the chest. The sleeve is narrow and the chest cut quite close. The overall result is a jacket that looks quite contemporary, and this is at least one reason it has become popular.

Antonio Liverano also has a wonderful eye for colour, which he will deny with a wide, modest smile, but then throw on a pastel pink scarf with a doughnut pattern that he designed himself.

It was that eye that convinced me to go with this rather strong shade of purple, in a vintage woolen cloth from among his collection. Those that have come along to the Armoury’s trunk shows in London or been to the Liverano shop in Florence will be familiar with Antonio’s homemade swatch books.

The fit was faultless, as you might expect, and the overall look of the finished garment was dressier than I expected. Even at the forward fitting I anticipated a rather casual piece that I would wear with jeans, but the sharp finish and bright horn button make it more akin to a blazer, albeit in a rather unusual tone.

Liverano is expensive, which I can’t account for, but the style in both cut and cloth is unique – and that’s pretty rare among Italian tailors.

Shirt by Turnbull & Asser, tie by Drake’s, handkerchief by Anderson & Sheppard

Photography: Luke Carby