In my experience, printed silks are more suited to a seven-fold, and heavier silks in any regard. Gianni has made me unlined ties before in such printed silks that have worked well.
I’ve had a frustrating relationship with Passaggio Cravatte. Gianni, who runs it, is a young guy, very keen, very inventive and with some good people making his ties in Naples. It is a sign of his ambition that he has started making entirely one-piece ties – the original seven folds, that require a piece of silk around 2m x 1.5m. Most seven-folds do not use just one piece, and indeed are three-folds through the centre of the tie (eg Marinella).
The tie pictured here is the seven-fold he made for me. The silk is nice – some of the vintage fabrics he works with are not as appealing – but unfortunately not suited to this construction. Original seven-folds are unlined, which means the silk has to make up for that lack of structure with its own thickness. This woven silk is too light, meaning the tie twists when worn. It has also been rather overpressed – as you can see from the image below.
Which is the frustrating thing. I have had some great things from Passaggio and some not so great. One tie he made was lovely, except for the fact that the keeper was so far up the front blade that it interfered with the knot. The making on the tie pictured here was also a little off, with the join down the back of the tie wonky in a few places.
I know how hard it is to make a new product, and work with new craftsmen. Here’s hoping Gianni can achieve greater consistency in time.