For the past year - ever since they were first launched here on Permanent Style - I have been wearing Sagans by Baudoin & Lange regularly and consistently.
But it has only been in the past few weeks, as the temperature has soared and I've been travelling in Italy, that they have really come into their own.
In hot weather, with a small invisible sock, I can wear Sagans all day long and remain cool and comfortable.
No blisters, no sweaty feet.
If I walk for hour after hour, my feet will get tired without the normal structure and sole of a proper shoe.
But even this Allan (Baudoin) has mitigated with a particular insert under the ball and heel of the foot.
I'll go into this in more detail in a fuller piece on dressing for very hot weather, in a couple of weeks.
Right now, I am proud to say that Allan and Bo are offering a new colour of Sagan that I have designed myself - the lovely grey/brown you can see pictured here.
I've worn both brown shades, and black, in the Sagans but I always felt there was a gap for a versatile suede that bridged slightly smarter and more casual clothing.
This is the result. A brown whose earthiness will make it perfect for warm colours such as brown, tan and green, but whose grey cast also makes it suitable for cooler colours - greys and navy.
In the pictures here I'm wearing them with off-white linen, but they have also gone well with a navy cotton suit, green linen trousers, and grey Crispaire.
The versatility also has the advantage - of course - of making them even more useful for travelling.
There is also - though it is very slight - a subtle purple cast to the colour. You can see this particularly when you look at the reverse, inside the shoe. As they are unlined, you can see the topside of the leather there, and it has a grey/purple tinge.
I was honoured to be asked by Allan and Bo to help come up with a new colour for the range, and even more pleased now to see the results.
The new 'Bark Grey' colour is available on their site as of this morning, in a limited run of 50 numbered pairs. There are three styles, as shown above.
You can see and buy the pair here.
Now back out into the heat of Naples...
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
Hey Simon, seems like the link is not working?
Cheers
It works OK for me. Is it still not working for you? If so, please let me know your machine and browser (Mac/PC, IE/Chrome/Firefox etc)
Hi Felix,
The link is up and running. But please let us know in case you are still having trouble accessing it! We can always send you a custom link in case you remain having troubles.
Bo
Hi Simon,
I love the shirt jacket. Please could you detail the outfit?
Thanks,
Ben
Coming in a post soon… the shirt jacket is from Drakes
Simon, you mention a limited run – is that ready to be shipped now or will it take 3-4 weeks for them to be produced first?
Thanks
They need to be produced – made to order
Hi Simon, it seems like a heel is slightly different from other colours. It looks more dressy, more in “bespoke” style.
I think that might just be the imagery. The heel is the same
The colour sounds brilliant. I’ve recently been falling in love with brown suedes with a bit of an urban (grey-purple) cast to them – finding them all wonderfully versatile.
Just ordered a pair of these – my first B&L.
I’ve gotten my B&L a few weeks ago, and wore them to the office, getting bread, travelling, strolling arround in the city, etc. These are easily the most comfortable shoes I own. They go so well with a casual suit, chinos, denim and even shorts. When it comes to comfort, I’d choose them any day over my EG Tassels, JL Lopez’s or SC Penny’s or even CP trainers for that matter.
I orderd a few more and will probably replace my Gommion’s over time with them.
That’s great to hear, thanks for the compliments 🙂
Bo
Simon, I’ve been looking for some suede loafers for general wear recently. In previous posts you have said that these are only really suitable for indoors, or brief/limited (low wear) trips out. Is the same true if you add the optional “interchangeable rubber grips” (which B&L say give an indefinite – which I presume simply means longer – lifespan)? With the rubber, could they be a good replacement for welted suede loafers? Thanks!
I would update that advice a little and say they can definitely be worn outdoors, though perhaps not still in a whole day of walking.
The rubber makes a small difference, but I would still say they are not a full replacement for a welted suede loafer in every way – still not quite as much support for the foot, still not quite as hard wearing
Baudoin & Lange Sagans – we guarantee you’ll feet will stay dry and you won’t be kicked out of any race!
Brilliant – I wondered if anyone else would pick up on this!
Been trying to purchase a pair for the last hour, the checkout system doesn’t appear to be working.
The link takes me to the proper site, however it does not allow me to add them to my cart.
Hi David,
The webshop platform we are running on had a checkout error lasting for about an hour, but they seem to have fully resolved the issue as of now.
Sorry for the inconvenience!
Bo
Hi Simon,
Where are your small invisible socks from?
Trunk
Why not the H&M version? Why pay more for items where “craft” is irrelevant?
Thanks,
S
The craft is less relevant (except in the binding, which is more attractive for being turned) but the materials are not – you don’t find this quality of suede in other Belgian slippers, and that’s the key thing that sets them apart
Simon,
I was talking about the “invisible socks” not the shoes. Just curious why one should go for Trunk’s significantly higher priced socks over H&M’s more than satisfactory and much cheaper version?
Thanks,
S
Oh I see, my apologies. There isn’t much of a difference, to be honest. I also have some from Uniqlo that are good.
Been wearing my B&L for a year now. Still love them!
Glad to hear 🙂
B&L,
How is the sizing? I wear crockett and jones on the 348 last in 9 (uk). Do you think size 9 will work for me in these?
Thanks,
S
Hi S,
Our sizing runs true to size. In your case, I would certainly recommend a size 9 (43) in our shoes.
Cheers,
Bo
Thanks. Even though I am a 9 in Crockett and Jones I am often a 44 in other shoes, for example espadrilles. Is there much space in the toe box?
How is the sizing. I am usually a large 9.5 with a wide foot. I am a 44 in the continental system?
Hi Carl,
Our shoes are true to size, with added flexibility in fit due to the unlined structure and the soft suede leather we use.
I would certainly recommend going for a size 44 in your case.
Cheers,
Bo
Any chance of a Naples city guide? I enjoy those posts most of all, and am considering a trip in a month or two.
Yep, on its way…
I’m tempted, but I’ve never ordered shoes via the Net. What’s the sizing like? Fit is critical with loafers. In U.K. sizes I’m 8.5. 42 can be on the tight side, and 43 too large.
Hi Thorn,
There is always a first!
Our loafers are inherently designed with the main objective of comfort and fit. Due to the unlined structure of the shoe, the fit molds a lot more than you might experience with typically lined shoes. This has the great advantage of our loafers being an ‘easy’ fit and thus easier to order remotely while getting the sizing right in one go.
In your particular case, I would recommend opting in for a size 42. We always recommend a snug fit at the start as the soft leather will start forming towards your feet.
If you have any trouble ordering online, don’t hesitate to send us an email!
Cheers,
Bo
I’m sorry to ask what might be a stupid question, but are the pictures of you above definitely in the bark grey?! The look different to those on the B&L website, which seem to really show the grey tones and almost suggest a slight difference in colour tone between the vamp and the main shoe. I’m tempted as my 2nd pair but the real life pics look very similar to the dark brown. Might just be my poor colour perception!
No, you’re right the pictures might be a little misleading there. Go off the B&L website – the studio shots will be the most accurate
Hi Ant,
Yes, the colors on our website are a better indication of the color tone.
But as Simon indicated, there are some shades of brown in the color mix so it has some slight similarities naturally.
Cheers,
Bo
Hi Bo
Thanks for the follow-up and helpful comments on colour – I’m pleased to say I’ve put the order in now 🙂
Thanks also, Simon – although damn you it means the Friday Polo’s have been bumped down one on the list! Fingers-crossed you’ll still have smalls available in a couple of months.
Cheers,
Ant
Thanks
We won’t have them in this style for a while Ant, new styles coming… Sorry!
Would you recommend this for someone who is flat footed?
Hi John,
We currently have multiple clients who would diagnose themselves as flat footed and wear them with great comfort.
But there might be someone here who can speak from his own experience.
Cheers,
Bo
Simon,
I like the linen pants you are wearing, may i know the swatch number, the bunch and the manufacturer.
Many thanks,
Chuck
Coming in a post soon Chuck. They’re from Edward Sexton
Hi Simon, would you ever wear Belgians with tailored shorts? I see a lot of people wearing Goodyear welter loafers with shorts recently but the gap in formality always looks a bit jarring to me. Does the unstructured nature of Belgians make them casual enough in your view ? If not any recommendations (other than boat shoes) for when espedrilles are too casual?
Yes, I would wear them, though only with the smartest shorts. Loafers that are unlined, or with a thin Blake or cemented sole, will look more casual. But after that you’re into boat shoes and sneakers
Really nice trousers, may I ask where you got them made?
See above
Simon / Bo,
Will vat be deducted from the price when shipping outside of the EU (to Norway)?
Thanks,
S
Simon,
Would you recommend going for the rubber grip?
Thanks,
S
Personally, no. I like the leather and longevity/grip aren’t so much of a concern
Will you then wear it on wet pavement (after a summer shower for example) or would that kill the leather?
It would be ok now and again, yes. I would generally avoid wearing them in wet weather though, both as the suede is close to the ground and will get dirty, and because the low vamp means your socks would start to get wet
Thanks. In that case it sounds like the rubber grip adds no real advantage?
Thanks,
S
It adds grip and longevity, but it’s a question of whether you need either.
Looking forward to the dressing for very hot weather post. I just returned from a camping vacation in the badlands of Alberta, Canada. It was extremely hot (34 degrees centigrade). I was sweaty, happy and very un-stylish in shorts, tank top and wide brimmed hat.
I have a pair of suede loafers in a grey-brown (a little lighter brown than yours) that I also find surprisingly versatile. They were found by luck on deep discount at a menswear store in a city I traveled to for business. Always satisfying to find a bargain that works so well.
Simon,
Can I ask, what size is your shirt jacket from Drakes?
Thanks,
Brian
Medium
Hi Simon,
I’m having trouble placing my order through the Baudoin and Lange website, and have reached out to them via email with no reply. Is there an alternative way for me to place an order for the Sagans in your color?
I’m afraid not, no. Do persist with email, I know they have had some issues recently and have been replying to people
Hi there,
I’m afraid we didn’t get any email from you, but please do send again and I will get to it right away!
Bo
Great, could you please confirm the appropriate email address? I’ve sent multiple messages to [email protected] and have also filled out the online form.
Simon,
I’m wondering about the relative formality of the classic v. string versions of the loafers. I assume the classic is the most formal by virtue of its simplicity. However, since the string references lace-up shoes, I’m wondering if it only slightly less formal (noting, of course, that since these are suede and loafers, as well as a lighter brown, they are aren’t particularly formal).
Thanks for your thoughts in advance.
Yes, I wouldn’t concentrate too much on the formality, but the strings will be less so.
Looks like Rubinacci,
Are they making the shoes for Rubinacci?
No, these are a chunk better in quality than Rubinacci. Better leather, better finished, more comfortable. Have a read of my original post on them for more details
who do you recommend for invisible/no-show socks?
Trunk has a decent range, largely Tabio ones, and Falke are also good. But I also have Uniqlo ones that are just as good.
what happens after the limited run of 50?
Will you be making the colour available again or stopped?
Hi Simon, what size did you take in these?? Normal size?
Yes
Hi Simon
Nice article, that made me purchase my first pair of B&L loafers. Unfortunately the company has yet to send me an order confirmation and does not respond to any of my emails (I wrote the to ask for an OC and I wanted to modify the size as well). The purchase should have gone through as this was clearly visible on their website. Lets see if they respond soon, it has been a week already.
– Michael
We remain to have some issues with icould.com email addresses receiving our emails, but everything has been taken care of regarding your order:)
Where does the leather come from that you use?
I’m probably misunderstanding, but on Facebook there is post about it coming from Hermes and in the latest edition of The Rake Magazine in says Cyprus…..which of course could still be Hermes.
Placed my order when this article went live, and received an email stating that my order has shipped (I’m in the US).
Looking forward to enjoying these shoes for the remainder of the summer.
Morning,
this was the newest shoe related piece i could find, my question is:
Has anyone heard of Buday shoes and if so does anyone have any thoughts on them. Someone on eBay wants to swap me a handmade pair of them for a suede C&J Hallam but haven’t heard of them previously?
Regards
Hi Simon. This summer I have to go to 2 weddings (not required very formal attire) and I am really interested buying BL loafers (to use also outside these event). I have a DB (6to1) blue linen suit in W Bill 60266. Which color have I to pick? Dark brown – burgundy – navy/grey ?
I’d go for dark brown – probably the most versatile
Simon,
I recently placed an order with these guys and am finding them more difficult to contact than the Queen.
Their site is also quite unstable.
Is there a problem ? Can you ask them to respond to me ?
Regards,
David
Hi David. No problem that I know of. I can drop them a line, sure.
Thanks Simon – they have been in touch and my loafers are on the way.
Super, good to hear
I like the Sagan but think it may be to neat for me. Do you have any experience of the Loro Piana Summer Walk? I want something more sturdy than a slipper, lighter than a good-year welted loafer and more elegant than most boat shoes. I have also looked at Moreschi.
No, but I don’t really like the style of the Walk much, not very elegant. Try unlined summer loafers from the normal English makers?
Is it me or have B&L significantly increased their prices? I was just about to order a pair for this summer since reading this post last year. I have a vague memory of a pair costing in the region of 200-300, not 300-400.
At this price and not being able to replace the sole, do you Simon or any readers here, think this makes them bad value for money and we would be better off going for an unlined number from say C&J?
They certainly have increased, yes.
I’d say they’re still just about good value for money, given the quality of the materials and all being handmade in London. I guess not having the latter would make them cheaper.
Unlined shoes from one of the Northampton makers would be a rather different shoe though – not really as light or as flexible, given this is a cemented sole. A better comparison is with other Belgian loafers probably.
Dear Simon,
I am thinking about another pair of loafers, but struggled with the decision between the belgian loafer by Boudain&Lange and normal loafers in brown suede? Which would be more versatile? I like to combine with linen trousers but sometimes I prefer a more casual style with jeans, cause it is a bit more practicable to commute to work. I hope you see my point.
I do Christopher. Normal loafers will probably be more versatile. B&L are best at filling a particular hole for something elegant but very lightweight and cool
Dear Simon,
I have decided to buy brown suede loafer from Meermin. They offer now an unlined version for the summer, which is very comfortable and soft. I guess, it is a very good value for the price.
In terms of versatility, how do you compare your bark grey and oat brown?
I presume you mean oak brown, though oat sounds cool!
I think the grey is more versatile, though dark brown is probably the most versatile of the lot.
Hi Simon,
Do you feel that the Nappa Deerskin Sagans could be worn throughout autumn (and perhaps, dare I say it, winter)? The images online seem to suggest an almost pebble-grain like texture.
I understand that in terms of practicality, they wouldn’t be first choice for a blizzard, but providing it’s moderately dry would it be a terrible idea?
I think it’s unlikely you’d feel cold in Autumn, but I’d avoid any wet weather
Thanks Simon. I understand this is highly subjective, but would you say that in terms of style, opposed to function, a Belgian loafer would work for Autumn/Winter, if the loafer were a seasonal colour?
It would look OK most of the time, but do be aware that a normal loafer would be more versatile and easier to wear with a range of things
Thanks Simon. Unfortunately I have very low volume feet and fallen arches which have never worked with a loafer (even with orthotics) before. I usually have the sides gaping open. I tried a Sagan at Selfridges and despite being tight across the toes (which I’ve been told should ease due to the soft construction), it turned out to be the only loafer I’ve ever tried that didn’t have this problem!
Aha, I see.
Among the style of tassels, string and classic (that’s plain one), what’s your preference?
Plain is my number one, and I have three in that design. I have just one string, for a little variation
As a follow up question, any reason why you prefer the plain one out of the 3 ?
Thanks
I find it the most versatile – between casual and formal.
Good advice Simon! By the way, what do you think of Saddle Penny?
I don’t know them I’m afraid
Hi Simon, do you use shoe trees with your sagans? Thanks.
No
Hi Simon,
Really like the color you created. Get a hard time to choose between the classical version and the tassle version. Can you sort of explain which type suite for what kinds of situation and fitting?
Tassels are probably less versatile, more of a definite style. If it’s your first pair, I’d go for the classic look
Hi Simon
Regarding the invisible socks, I try to look for a brand whose invisible socks do not show when wearing the B&L loafers. My pair of Pantherella invisible socks is still visible when I put on the B&L. Any suggestions?
Hi Simon
(Repeat my previous unanswered question)
Regarding the invisible socks, I try to look for a brand whose invisible socks do not show when wearing the B&L loafers. My pair of Pantherella invisible socks is still visible when I put on the B&L. Any suggestions?
I wear Falke ones – the invisible line
I really like this color but are thinking about buying something that can also function as a slipper in a more informal black-tie event. I am thinking about a sagan in midnight blue or something like that. An alternative can be the Albert in velvet from Crockett & Jones. I already have a lot of loafers in different shades of brown. Do you think the sagans work as indoor slippers and can they work with black tie. And in that case in which colors? (I really don´t want black because I would love to be able to wear them without black tie as well).
They can just about work as slippers indoors, but they’re never going to be as soft as the slippers you’re used to, given the leather sole.
And yes they can work with black tie, but I’d only use black ones for that…
Hi Simon I’d like to ask, besides comfort..my experience with unlined shoes from Italian shoe maker Manina Firenze are that overtime they become completely unwearable due to over stretching.
Has this been the case with your experience with B&L Sagans?
No, they’ve been fine, though I did learn I should err on the smaller size given I’m between two. (42 and 43)
I would have thought a Mannina shoe would have a lot more structure than a Sagan though?
Hi Simon, would you recommend to wear them for an Italian wedding in middle of August? I’m eventually pairing the black version to a tobacco linen suit and black grenardine tie.
Thank you
Yes. Unless it’s a formal wedding where everyone will be in smart grey and navy suits, black shoes and so on, this would fit in very nicely
Hi Simon,
After the Lus. Dark Brown, what do you think is the second most versatile color? Oak brown? Their “iconic” tobacco? Sand?
Would love to hear your thoughts and maybe even get your 3rd, 4th and 5th most versatile color picks, thanks!
I’d say versatility is (for me, for what I would wear them with):
– Dark brown
– Oak brown
– Dark green
– Black
Thanks!
Hi Simon,
I wonder how your loafers are holding up? Within two weeks the rubber toe came off, within a month the inner leather slipper started to fall off and more recently the heel has started to come off (about 8 months) Baudoin and Lange claim this is ‘normal wear and tear’ and also don’t offer repairs.
Well, the first two things don’t sounds like wear and tear, though the latter might be if heavily used.
Bear in mind that they’re simply made shoes as well, unlike most dress shoes, and aren’t really designed for heavy wear, or for being repaired. It’s what makes the price point difficult for some people.
Hi Simon-
I am curious if you’ve had a chance to check out the new Sagan Ginkgo loafer. I really like the design, the penny strap adds some nice visual interest to the top of the shoe without being as formal as a tassel. Do you think one of of the lighter, dustier tans in this model would work well as a casual summer shoe (creamy linen trousers, white jeans, etc). Thanks Simon.
Yes I think it would. I’m actually working on doing my own colour of the Gingko with the guys, as they could do with a mid-brown in that range I think
Thanks, Simon. Is the mid-brown collaboration something you expect to come to market this Season or pushed out a bit?
This season hopefully
I have two pair of the original Sagans and a pair of the newish Grand. They are all excellent shoes but it isn’t realistic to impose expectations on their use.
The Sagans are a very unstructured shoe and shouldn’t (my opinion) be worn for walking much. Apart from the absence of lining, the incredibly soft suede adds to the sense of lack of support. But they are remarkably elegant because of their remarkably soft suede and sleek profile.
The Grands are the walking shoe, though the thinner sole is more limiting than a Goodyear. They are beautiful though. One gripe — if it is that — the construction is such that one sees a sort of inner line following the front form of the vamp. I felt underneath and it is the stitching of the inner lining. No one but the wearer will notice, but it seems either a design or construction flaw.
Sorry to see that they dropped the saddle loafer, which allowed for so many combinations of build, and the Gincko strap should be added to the strides. I just ordered some strides but there is a point where the plainness of the Sagan simplicity gets dull.
Scratching my head over which colour to choose and get most use out of : black or dark brown ? I think you have both.
Considering I already have a dark brown suede pair of penny loafers, wouldn’t that colour be redundant ?
I was thinking of the black suede as a casual option but also a formal one, to wear with a dark grey (charcoal) suit and tie ; would that work ?
It depends how you’re going to wear them. For me, they’re just for hot weather when I want something as light as possible – so they’re a replacement for the penny loafer when the temperature demands it. So you want the same material, the dark brown.
They might be too casual with a suit and tie, I think
Thanks for your answer.
My penny loafers are already my “hot weather shoe” as they are unlined.
Besides the dark brown, what other colours could be versatile, just to have other options ?
I’d say either oak brown or black, as you highlighted.
Out of interest, if you don’t need a hot-weather shoe, what are you getting the Sagans for? Variation in style? If so I’d consider what things you’re more likely then wear those with, if that makes sense
For variation in style yes (I only have one pair of loafers and they are currently my most worn pair of shoes), and because I’ve seen them worn in such a broad spectrum of outfits, from linen pants with polos, to jeans, to suits with ties.
They look like they can bridge formal and casual with their “cool” look, plus they look extra comfy. I was also attracted to black suede, because it is kind of an oxymoron.
I was thinking of wearing them with jeans on the week-end when I don’t want/need to wear a more proper dress shoe, to work on those days when you just want something very comfortable, bring them on holidays to have a nice shoe to wear to dinner, but don’t want to bring dress shoes, and to wear with “cocktail” suits to work parties for example.
That sounds great, they could definitely work like that.
I guess my only word of caution would be that they won’t be as versatile as a normal loafer – just being more unusual – so wouldn’t work with everyone to work etc, and also not all year round.
How durable are they for someone that walks a lot in the city ? Have you had to resole yours ?
And what do you think about other brands’ take on the belgian loafer, but made with a Blake stitch ?
I haven’t had to, but I’ve really only worn them in the summer has a hot-weather shoe, as I say.
To be honest, given you only have one other loafer, and are talking about durability, I’m not sure they’re the right choice – another normal loafer might be better.
I haven’t tried other Belgian-style loafers I’m afraid, only the original Belgian, which I’d have similar concerns about
Taking your thoughts into consideration, I think it might be more sensible to go with a black leather penny loafer. This was my original thought actually, my mind drifted towards the Sagan afterwards.
I think that’s probably a good call. Still plenty of interesting ways to wear that as well – few people expect a black loafer these days worn remotely casually, but it can work really well. As discussed a little here
I actually discussed it on a few threads, and have already picked a brand and model.
I’m buying a flat so I have to prioritize my expenses, still it is fun to discuss those options.
Glad to hear it. I’m now even more in favour of the loafers over Sagans!
Can Sagan soles be easily resoled? Or once it’s worn down, it’s done?
On a previous trip,I decided to visit Baudouin & Lange in Burlington Arcade.
I was wearing my old Navy Cord jacket and grey trousers.
I asked the super guy in the Burlington Arcade shop what he regarded as a suitable pair for indoor wear and yet offer some robustness for occasional outdoors…on the sidewalk…no more.
Ideally an elegant substitute for wearing slippers indoors.
He recommended the midnight navy Stride Model which he thought worked well with the Navy jacket and grey trousers.
What do you think, Simon?
What’s your all time favourite B&L shoe and what is your current view on B&L now?
I’m not a big fan of the Stride as I don’t like that style of shoe generally, but for classics like the Sagans I love B&L, mostly as a lightweight summer shoe. The only issue with those is they’re more expensive now
Thanks for that