Baudoin & Lange sagans – my colour

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Friday, July 7th 2017
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For the past year - ever since they were first launched here on Permanent Style - I have been wearing Sagans by Baudoin & Lange regularly and consistently. 

But it has only been in the past few weeks, as the temperature has soared and I've been travelling in Italy, that they have really come into their own. 

In hot weather, with a small invisible sock, I can wear Sagans all day long and remain cool and comfortable.

No blisters, no sweaty feet.

If I walk for hour after hour, my feet will get tired without the normal structure and sole of a proper shoe. 

But even this Allan (Baudoin) has mitigated with a particular insert under the ball and heel of the foot. 

I'll go into this in more detail in a fuller piece on dressing for very hot weather, in a couple of weeks. 

Right now, I am proud to say that Allan and Bo are offering a new colour of Sagan that I have designed myself - the lovely grey/brown you can see pictured here. 

I've worn both brown shades, and black, in the Sagans but I always felt there was a gap for a versatile suede that bridged slightly smarter and more casual clothing.

This is the result. A brown whose earthiness will make it perfect for warm colours such as brown, tan and green, but whose grey cast also makes it suitable for cooler colours - greys and navy.

In the pictures here I'm wearing them with off-white linen, but they have also gone well with a navy cotton suit, green linen trousers, and grey Crispaire. 

The versatility also has the advantage - of course - of making them even more useful for travelling. 

There is also - though it is very slight - a subtle purple cast to the colour. You can see this particularly when you look at the reverse, inside the shoe. As they are unlined, you can see the topside of the leather there, and it has a grey/purple tinge. 

I was honoured to be asked by Allan and Bo to help come up with a new colour for the range, and even more pleased now to see the results. 

The new 'Bark Grey' colour is available on their site as of this morning, in a limited run of 50 numbered pairs. There are three styles, as shown above.

You can see and buy the pair here

Now back out into the heat of Naples...

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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Felix E.

Hey Simon, seems like the link is not working?

Cheers

Baudoin & Lange

Hi Felix,

The link is up and running. But please let us know in case you are still having trouble accessing it! We can always send you a custom link in case you remain having troubles.

Bo

Ben

Hi Simon,
I love the shirt jacket. Please could you detail the outfit?
Thanks,
Ben

Nate

Simon, you mention a limited run – is that ready to be shipped now or will it take 3-4 weeks for them to be produced first?

Thanks

Michael

Hi Simon, it seems like a heel is slightly different from other colours. It looks more dressy, more in “bespoke” style.

RoshanYJ

The colour sounds brilliant. I’ve recently been falling in love with brown suedes with a bit of an urban (grey-purple) cast to them – finding them all wonderfully versatile.
Just ordered a pair of these – my first B&L.

Johnnydevore

I’ve gotten my B&L a few weeks ago, and wore them to the office, getting bread, travelling, strolling arround in the city, etc. These are easily the most comfortable shoes I own. They go so well with a casual suit, chinos, denim and even shorts. When it comes to comfort, I’d choose them any day over my EG Tassels, JL Lopez’s or SC Penny’s or even CP trainers for that matter.
I orderd a few more and will probably replace my Gommion’s over time with them.

Baudoin & Lange

That’s great to hear, thanks for the compliments 🙂

Bo

O

Simon, I’ve been looking for some suede loafers for general wear recently. In previous posts you have said that these are only really suitable for indoors, or brief/limited (low wear) trips out. Is the same true if you add the optional “interchangeable rubber grips” (which B&L say give an indefinite – which I presume simply means longer – lifespan)? With the rubber, could they be a good replacement for welted suede loafers? Thanks!

Alex H.

Baudoin & Lange Sagans – we guarantee you’ll feet will stay dry and you won’t be kicked out of any race!

Chris Finch

Brilliant – I wondered if anyone else would pick up on this!

david

Been trying to purchase a pair for the last hour, the checkout system doesn’t appear to be working.

The link takes me to the proper site, however it does not allow me to add them to my cart.

Baudoin & Lange

Hi David,

The webshop platform we are running on had a checkout error lasting for about an hour, but they seem to have fully resolved the issue as of now.

Sorry for the inconvenience!

Bo

patrick

Hi Simon,

Where are your small invisible socks from?

S

Why not the H&M version? Why pay more for items where “craft” is irrelevant?

Thanks,
S

S

Simon,

I was talking about the “invisible socks” not the shoes. Just curious why one should go for Trunk’s significantly higher priced socks over H&M’s more than satisfactory and much cheaper version?

Thanks,
S

Reuven Lax

Been wearing my B&L for a year now. Still love them!

Baudoin & Lange

Glad to hear 🙂

S

B&L,

How is the sizing? I wear crockett and jones on the 348 last in 9 (uk). Do you think size 9 will work for me in these?

Thanks,
S

Baudoin & Lange

Hi S,

Our sizing runs true to size. In your case, I would certainly recommend a size 9 (43) in our shoes.

Cheers,
Bo

S

Thanks. Even though I am a 9 in Crockett and Jones I am often a 44 in other shoes, for example espadrilles. Is there much space in the toe box?

Carl

How is the sizing. I am usually a large 9.5 with a wide foot. I am a 44 in the continental system?

Baudoin & Lange

Hi Carl,

Our shoes are true to size, with added flexibility in fit due to the unlined structure and the soft suede leather we use.

I would certainly recommend going for a size 44 in your case.

Cheers,
Bo

Phil

Any chance of a Naples city guide? I enjoy those posts most of all, and am considering a trip in a month or two.

Thorn

I’m tempted, but I’ve never ordered shoes via the Net. What’s the sizing like? Fit is critical with loafers. In U.K. sizes I’m 8.5. 42 can be on the tight side, and 43 too large.

Baudoin & Lange

Hi Thorn,

There is always a first!

Our loafers are inherently designed with the main objective of comfort and fit. Due to the unlined structure of the shoe, the fit molds a lot more than you might experience with typically lined shoes. This has the great advantage of our loafers being an ‘easy’ fit and thus easier to order remotely while getting the sizing right in one go.

In your particular case, I would recommend opting in for a size 42. We always recommend a snug fit at the start as the soft leather will start forming towards your feet.

If you have any trouble ordering online, don’t hesitate to send us an email!

Cheers,
Bo

Ant

I’m sorry to ask what might be a stupid question, but are the pictures of you above definitely in the bark grey?! The look different to those on the B&L website, which seem to really show the grey tones and almost suggest a slight difference in colour tone between the vamp and the main shoe. I’m tempted as my 2nd pair but the real life pics look very similar to the dark brown. Might just be my poor colour perception!

Baudoin & Lange

Hi Ant,

Yes, the colors on our website are a better indication of the color tone.

But as Simon indicated, there are some shades of brown in the color mix so it has some slight similarities naturally.

Cheers,
Bo

Ant

Hi Bo

Thanks for the follow-up and helpful comments on colour – I’m pleased to say I’ve put the order in now 🙂

Thanks also, Simon – although damn you it means the Friday Polo’s have been bumped down one on the list! Fingers-crossed you’ll still have smalls available in a couple of months.

Cheers,
Ant

Thanks

John

Would you recommend this for someone who is flat footed?

Baudoin & Lange

Hi John,

We currently have multiple clients who would diagnose themselves as flat footed and wear them with great comfort.

But there might be someone here who can speak from his own experience.

Cheers,
Bo

Chuck

Simon,

I like the linen pants you are wearing, may i know the swatch number, the bunch and the manufacturer.

Many thanks,

Chuck

Sam

Hi Simon, would you ever wear Belgians with tailored shorts? I see a lot of people wearing Goodyear welter loafers with shorts recently but the gap in formality always looks a bit jarring to me. Does the unstructured nature of Belgians make them casual enough in your view ? If not any recommendations (other than boat shoes) for when espedrilles are too casual?

Marvin Chankowsky

Really nice trousers, may I ask where you got them made?

S

Simon / Bo,

Will vat be deducted from the price when shipping outside of the EU (to Norway)?

Thanks,
S

S

Simon,

Would you recommend going for the rubber grip?

Thanks,
S

S

Will you then wear it on wet pavement (after a summer shower for example) or would that kill the leather?

S

Thanks. In that case it sounds like the rubber grip adds no real advantage?

Thanks,
S

Peter K

Looking forward to the dressing for very hot weather post. I just returned from a camping vacation in the badlands of Alberta, Canada. It was extremely hot (34 degrees centigrade). I was sweaty, happy and very un-stylish in shorts, tank top and wide brimmed hat.

I have a pair of suede loafers in a grey-brown (a little lighter brown than yours) that I also find surprisingly versatile. They were found by luck on deep discount at a menswear store in a city I traveled to for business. Always satisfying to find a bargain that works so well.

Brian G

Simon,
Can I ask, what size is your shirt jacket from Drakes?
Thanks,
Brian

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

I’m having trouble placing my order through the Baudoin and Lange website, and have reached out to them via email with no reply. Is there an alternative way for me to place an order for the Sagans in your color?

Baudoin & Lange

Hi there,

I’m afraid we didn’t get any email from you, but please do send again and I will get to it right away!

Bo

Anonymous

Great, could you please confirm the appropriate email address? I’ve sent multiple messages to [email protected] and have also filled out the online form.

Chancellor

Simon,

I’m wondering about the relative formality of the classic v. string versions of the loafers. I assume the classic is the most formal by virtue of its simplicity. However, since the string references lace-up shoes, I’m wondering if it only slightly less formal (noting, of course, that since these are suede and loafers, as well as a lighter brown, they are aren’t particularly formal).

Thanks for your thoughts in advance.

Naty

Looks like Rubinacci,
Are they making the shoes for Rubinacci?

Steven

who do you recommend for invisible/no-show socks?

Andy

what happens after the limited run of 50?

Will you be making the colour available again or stopped?

Paddy

Hi Simon, what size did you take in these?? Normal size?

Michael P.

Hi Simon

Nice article, that made me purchase my first pair of B&L loafers. Unfortunately the company has yet to send me an order confirmation and does not respond to any of my emails (I wrote the to ask for an OC and I wanted to modify the size as well). The purchase should have gone through as this was clearly visible on their website. Lets see if they respond soon, it has been a week already.

– Michael

Baudoin & Lange

We remain to have some issues with icould.com email addresses receiving our emails, but everything has been taken care of regarding your order:)

Joel

Where does the leather come from that you use?

I’m probably misunderstanding, but on Facebook there is post about it coming from Hermes and in the latest edition of The Rake Magazine in says Cyprus…..which of course could still be Hermes.

Anonymous

Placed my order when this article went live, and received an email stating that my order has shipped (I’m in the US).

Looking forward to enjoying these shoes for the remainder of the summer.

T

Morning,
this was the newest shoe related piece i could find, my question is:
Has anyone heard of Buday shoes and if so does anyone have any thoughts on them. Someone on eBay wants to swap me a handmade pair of them for a suede C&J Hallam but haven’t heard of them previously?
Regards

A.

Hi Simon. This summer I have to go to 2 weddings (not required very formal attire) and I am really interested buying BL loafers (to use also outside these event). I have a DB (6to1) blue linen suit in W Bill 60266. Which color have I to pick? Dark brown – burgundy – navy/grey ?

david

Simon,
I recently placed an order with these guys and am finding them more difficult to contact than the Queen.
Their site is also quite unstable.
Is there a problem ? Can you ask them to respond to me ?
Regards,
David

David

Thanks Simon – they have been in touch and my loafers are on the way.

Carl

I like the Sagan but think it may be to neat for me. Do you have any experience of the Loro Piana Summer Walk? I want something more sturdy than a slipper, lighter than a good-year welted loafer and more elegant than most boat shoes. I have also looked at Moreschi.

Chris Finch

Is it me or have B&L significantly increased their prices? I was just about to order a pair for this summer since reading this post last year. I have a vague memory of a pair costing in the region of 200-300, not 300-400.

At this price and not being able to replace the sole, do you Simon or any readers here, think this makes them bad value for money and we would be better off going for an unlined number from say C&J?

Christopher

Dear Simon,

I am thinking about another pair of loafers, but struggled with the decision between the belgian loafer by Boudain&Lange and normal loafers in brown suede? Which would be more versatile? I like to combine with linen trousers but sometimes I prefer a more casual style with jeans, cause it is a bit more practicable to commute to work. I hope you see my point.

Christopher

Dear Simon,

I have decided to buy brown suede loafer from Meermin. They offer now an unlined version for the summer, which is very comfortable and soft. I guess, it is a very good value for the price.

Ben

In terms of versatility, how do you compare your bark grey and oat brown?

Jonny

Hi Simon,

Do you feel that the Nappa Deerskin Sagans could be worn throughout autumn (and perhaps, dare I say it, winter)? The images online seem to suggest an almost pebble-grain like texture.

I understand that in terms of practicality, they wouldn’t be first choice for a blizzard, but providing it’s moderately dry would it be a terrible idea?

Jonny

Thanks Simon. I understand this is highly subjective, but would you say that in terms of style, opposed to function, a Belgian loafer would work for Autumn/Winter, if the loafer were a seasonal colour?

Jonny

Thanks Simon. Unfortunately I have very low volume feet and fallen arches which have never worked with a loafer (even with orthotics) before. I usually have the sides gaping open. I tried a Sagan at Selfridges and despite being tight across the toes (which I’ve been told should ease due to the soft construction), it turned out to be the only loafer I’ve ever tried that didn’t have this problem!

Ben

Among the style of tassels, string and classic (that’s plain one), what’s your preference?

Ben

As a follow up question, any reason why you prefer the plain one out of the 3 ?

Thanks

Ben

Good advice Simon! By the way, what do you think of Saddle Penny?

Greg

Hi Simon, do you use shoe trees with your sagans? Thanks.

Jack

Hi Simon,

Really like the color you created. Get a hard time to choose between the classical version and the tassle version. Can you sort of explain which type suite for what kinds of situation and fitting?

Ben

Hi Simon

Regarding the invisible socks, I try to look for a brand whose invisible socks do not show when wearing the B&L loafers. My pair of Pantherella invisible socks is still visible when I put on the B&L. Any suggestions?

Ben

Hi Simon

(Repeat my previous unanswered question)

Regarding the invisible socks, I try to look for a brand whose invisible socks do not show when wearing the B&L loafers. My pair of Pantherella invisible socks is still visible when I put on the B&L. Any suggestions?

Carl

I really like this color but are thinking about buying something that can also function as a slipper in a more informal black-tie event. I am thinking about a sagan in midnight blue or something like that. An alternative can be the Albert in velvet from Crockett & Jones. I already have a lot of loafers in different shades of brown. Do you think the sagans work as indoor slippers and can they work with black tie. And in that case in which colors? (I really don´t want black because I would love to be able to wear them without black tie as well).

Yee

Hi Simon I’d like to ask, besides comfort..my experience with unlined shoes from Italian shoe maker Manina Firenze are that overtime they become completely unwearable due to over stretching.
Has this been the case with your experience with B&L Sagans?

Stef

Hi Simon, would you recommend to wear them for an Italian wedding in middle of August? I’m eventually pairing the black version to a tobacco linen suit and black grenardine tie.
Thank you

Bernie

Hi Simon,

After the Lus. Dark Brown, what do you think is the second most versatile color? Oak brown? Their “iconic” tobacco? Sand?

Would love to hear your thoughts and maybe even get your 3rd, 4th and 5th most versatile color picks, thanks!

Bernie

Thanks!

yusuf eqbal

Hi Simon,

I wonder how your loafers are holding up? Within two weeks the rubber toe came off, within a month the inner leather slipper started to fall off and more recently the heel has started to come off (about 8 months) Baudoin and Lange claim this is ‘normal wear and tear’ and also don’t offer repairs.

Justin

Hi Simon-
I am curious if you’ve had a chance to check out the new Sagan Ginkgo loafer. I really like the design, the penny strap adds some nice visual interest to the top of the shoe without being as formal as a tassel. Do you think one of of the lighter, dustier tans in this model would work well as a casual summer shoe (creamy linen trousers, white jeans, etc). Thanks Simon.

Justin

Thanks, Simon. Is the mid-brown collaboration something you expect to come to market this Season or pushed out a bit?

Alex

I have two pair of the original Sagans and a pair of the newish Grand. They are all excellent shoes but it isn’t realistic to impose expectations on their use.

The Sagans are a very unstructured shoe and shouldn’t (my opinion) be worn for walking much. Apart from the absence of lining, the incredibly soft suede adds to the sense of lack of support. But they are remarkably elegant because of their remarkably soft suede and sleek profile.

The Grands are the walking shoe, though the thinner sole is more limiting than a Goodyear. They are beautiful though. One gripe — if it is that — the construction is such that one sees a sort of inner line following the front form of the vamp. I felt underneath and it is the stitching of the inner lining. No one but the wearer will notice, but it seems either a design or construction flaw.

Sorry to see that they dropped the saddle loafer, which allowed for so many combinations of build, and the Gincko strap should be added to the strides. I just ordered some strides but there is a point where the plainness of the Sagan simplicity gets dull.

P.A.

Scratching my head over which colour to choose and get most use out of : black or dark brown ? I think you have both.
Considering I already have a dark brown suede pair of penny loafers, wouldn’t that colour be redundant ?
I was thinking of the black suede as a casual option but also a formal one, to wear with a dark grey (charcoal) suit and tie ; would that work ?

P.A.

Thanks for your answer.
My penny loafers are already my “hot weather shoe” as they are unlined.
Besides the dark brown, what other colours could be versatile, just to have other options ?

P.A.

For variation in style yes (I only have one pair of loafers and they are currently my most worn pair of shoes), and because I’ve seen them worn in such a broad spectrum of outfits, from linen pants with polos, to jeans, to suits with ties.
They look like they can bridge formal and casual with their “cool” look, plus they look extra comfy. I was also attracted to black suede, because it is kind of an oxymoron.
I was thinking of wearing them with jeans on the week-end when I don’t want/need to wear a more proper dress shoe, to work on those days when you just want something very comfortable, bring them on holidays to have a nice shoe to wear to dinner, but don’t want to bring dress shoes, and to wear with “cocktail” suits to work parties for example.

P.A.

How durable are they for someone that walks a lot in the city ? Have you had to resole yours ?
And what do you think about other brands’ take on the belgian loafer, but made with a Blake stitch ?

P.A.

Taking your thoughts into consideration, I think it might be more sensible to go with a black leather penny loafer. This was my original thought actually, my mind drifted towards the Sagan afterwards.

P.A.

I actually discussed it on a few threads, and have already picked a brand and model.
I’m buying a flat so I have to prioritize my expenses, still it is fun to discuss those options.

Kyle

Can Sagan soles be easily resoled? Or once it’s worn down, it’s done?

Lindsay McKee

On a previous trip,I decided to visit Baudouin & Lange in Burlington Arcade.
I was wearing my old Navy Cord jacket and grey trousers.
I asked the super guy in the Burlington Arcade shop what he regarded as a suitable pair for indoor wear and yet offer some robustness for occasional outdoors…on the sidewalk…no more.
Ideally an elegant substitute for wearing slippers indoors.
He recommended the midnight navy Stride Model which he thought worked well with the Navy jacket and grey trousers.
What do you think, Simon?

What’s your all time favourite B&L shoe and what is your current view on B&L now?

Lindsay McKee

Thanks for that