Permanent Style trench coat: Alterations and waiting list

Tuesday, September 19th 2017
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Many thanks to everyone that bought our trench coat last week.

The response was wonderful, and as you will have been able to see, we have sold out.  

We are now putting together a waiting list, which readers can be added to my emailing us on [email protected]

There is no need to pre-pay to be on this list, but it gives us a good indication of sizes required, and those on the list will be given priority when that new run is ready. We should have more information on the timing of the run in the next week or so. 

Separately, I've also clarified a few things about alterations. 

I know that I am above average height, and that therefore the coat might be a little too long for some people. This is easy to alter, as the coat is unlined (and the removable lining considerably shorter than the full coat). 

At least 10cm can be taken off the length of the coat without causing any issues.

Private White VC offer a great service in their store for this, or it can be done by a local alterations tailor. 

The sleeves can also be shortened, but only by about 1.5cm.

More than this and the end of the sleeve gets too close to the cuff flap and will look odd. But 1.5cm will make a noticeable difference. 

Both could be options considered by those 38 people that have bought coats so far. Everyone should receive them this week. 

Lastly, Private White VC do offer both MTM and bespoke services - the former at 20% above retail price, and the latter at 70% above. With MTM you can change most sizing, widths, lengths etc. With bespoke you can basically redesign it, with different materials, pockets and so on. Contact them through their website for details. 

Thanks again. 

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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Rob

Hi Simon

It would be great if your trench could be made available mtm.

Daniel

This MTM service is offered for a limited time only or any product previously offered by them can be ordered?

JB

Hi Simon,
Might be that I’m not a native english speaker, but the way that last phrase is put, it’s not entirely clear that the MTM and bespoke option is valid for your version as well rather than in general, just a heads up.
Coat looks marvelous.

Anonymous

Great Simon, I had assumed your trench was not included in that list as it was not the standard trench.

Philipp

Hi Simon,

completly off topic, but the last pic of you here smiling into the camera made me realize it again: your tie knot sits perfectly in between your shirt collar. I recognized that my tie knot (four in hand) won`t stay in that place for a long time. Instead it keeps slipping down just a bit showing just a little bit of the shirt beneath. I tried several ties but haven`t found a satisfying solution yet. Do you know what causes this and what can be done to avoid it? My shirt collars neither feel to tight nor to loose.

Peter K

It’s pouring rain today. I could really use this trench coat.

Ian Arnold

Thanks Simon for the heads up! Today I saw the material in person and gained an idea of the practicality. I pressed Ahead with the MTO option as I’m a little short in the arms. I stuck with the Dark Olive even though a voice in my head was saying Navy. I thought I’d give Navy a break, the fabric is sufficiently dark enough to not stain easily and the cut is nice. I liked the belt features, seems better and more masculine than having to tie a little bow with my Burberry trench which is so short it would only be practicable if I took to wearing mini skirts. The colour and style isn’t so loaded with connotation that people will immediately cry “Oui Clooooosooooe” when I enter a room.

The sales representative was attentive and appeared confident in what he was doing. Something I’ve found lacking in my fellow countrymen who work in clothing.

I’m looking forward to the first fitting.

Sent from my iPhone

Ian A

Update : I received the coat back from Private White and they were able to let the coat out a bit and this put less strain on the buttons. It’s held up well and is very warm with the lining. PWVC is a great company to deal with when ordering MTM products and they had a very helpful and professional attitude in ensuring that I had a practical fitting garment following factory adjustments and repair.

Rutherford

Hi Simon,

This looks like a fantastic garment and a welcome innovation, one I might certainly try out myself in the near future.
Trench coats have actually been a bit of a personal fascination of mine and I would like to hear your opinion on the quality of construction of makers such as Private White compared to Burberry or Aquascutum, irrespective of their prices.

Best,
Rutherford.

Tym

Dear Simon, What kind of fedora are you wearing in the photo and where can it be acquired?

SKM

From the web shop it seems you are now taking preorders for delivery already in week 42. If that’s the case, when does the option for pre-orders close?

Thanks!

SKM

It does, thanks a lot for claryfying!

Ed

Simon, after a consultation with my local alteration tailor, we’ve managed to shorten the cuff significantly more than the 1.5 inch prescribed, by opening the seams at the cuff and cutting off the excess length from there.

Obviously this had an impact on the positioning of the cuff strap; so we decided to simply cut the poppers off, mask the holes left by the poppers with a length of excess cloth, reinstall a new popper (the tailor managed to source something identical to the PWVC one, in copper) along with the strap higher up the arm.

The end result was impressive. The holes left by the poppers were nicely hidden under a rectangular piece of excess cloth, with stitching done in a thread of same colour as found elsewhere in the garment. Indeed the modification is pretty much unnoticeable to the casual observer.

Shame I can’t attach a picture here. I believe this will be a good solution to a common problem encountered by readers in this post.

Ed

Oh, forgot to mention one more thing.

Simon, the armholes on this trench are HUGE. I know they are meant to help accommodate a jacket underneath, but even then they do not have to be this large and low. I could fit a thick leather jacket underneath, layered on top of a few knit pieces, and still have excess in the sleeves…

Considering how you envisioned with trench to be a versatile piece wearable both with and without a jacket, I would consider a slightly slimmer sleeve and higher armhole advisable, much like what you do with your overcoat shoulders – a little tight with a jacket, a little excess without.

I wonder if this is something that can be altered?

Andy

Hi Simon,
I recently acquired the trench- it is fantastic albeit bigger than my other PWVC jackets in the same size – is that what you requested?

So, I’d need to shorten sleeves, more so than my other PWVC jackets- possibility more than 1.5cm. Do you know if they can shorten via the shoulders given it is set in and raglan sleeves?
If they can ,do you also recommend me slimming down the sleeves as well?

Jim

Hi Simon, have you cycled with the coat? Wondering how practical it would be for a short bicycle commute, or if the length is too long to tuck away. Thanks!

Pat

Just got this in but just wanted to check from you in regards to sleeve shortening. I know you’ve said it can be shorted max 1.5cm but I will need more taken off.

What do you recommend in this instance ? Should I take it back to PWVC and somehow they can shorten more? What would you do?

Pat

Here you go-

“The sleeves can also be shortened, but only by about 1.5cm.”

Given the price of the trench I want to get it right. If I need it shortened more than 1.5cm, what are you recommending ?

Pat

I should also add that if I was to shorten via the shoulders, I’d take it back to PWVC.
Is this something you’d do?

sorry for all the questions!

Andy

Hi Simon,

This being cotton, and after many wears, will the sleeve shrink slightly with the crease?

Asking because i recently bought your trench and considering if I need to factor in the wrinkle when shortening the sleeves- so thinking if I should shorten not as much to compensate..??