We are 10! (What was your best bit?)

Wednesday, December 20th 2017
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Permanent Style started 10 years ago.

It seems odd to call it a blog now - given how much PS encompasses today - but back then that was definitely what it was.

It was a blog with a lot of rants. About how there were no good magazines; about how men wore striped suits with striped shirts and looked like they were wearing pyjamas.

I had little knowledge, and fewer connections. But I felt there was something wrong with how menswear was being discussed and - as a journalist by trade - I wanted to write about it.



The decade's most popular post:

How to wear separate jacket and trousers



Ten years and 1,866 posts later, many things have changed.

There is a genuine movement around craft and artisanship. There is also a related one around maintaining local specialties and traditions.

Both have been taken too far, inevitably.

The man on the street too quickly assumes that 'Made in Britain' necessarily means quality. The menswear geek too quickly assumes that knowing the factory something was made in necessarily tells him the same thing.

But they are both good things, and broader in their impact that the equally genuine trend of greater interest in sartorial, bespoke menswear, which we spend most of our time discussing.



The decade's most shared post:

Buy good English shoes



Unfortunately, most things have not changed.

There are still few good magazines. Indeed, you could argue that the advent of social media and 'influencers' paid to promote products has made things worse. Certainly, it's more opaque.

The vast majority of men are also still paying little attention to their clothing - or if they are, they're largely buying cheap things driven by branding or celebrities.

'Classic' clothing has had a renaissance, but it will always go in and out of fashion. It's the long-term attitude to both style and quality that we need to strive for.



The decade's most popular newsletter post:

Which office are you?



And how about Permanent Style?

I think it's fair the site has made a contribution to these trends, and helped spread the word. Several million people have read the site in that time; over half a million pages are viewed every month.

More pleasingly, readers regularly tell me how much the site has meant to them. Last week I had a long message from an American reader explaining how much I had contributed to the success of his wedding. 

Ten years is a long time in the world of blogs, but not that much in life.

My eldest daughter turns 10 in January, and she is already one of the most wonderful, creative people I have ever met. She knows a lot; she absorbs knowledge like a sponge.

But she's a long way from knowing everything - and so is Permanent Style.



The decade's post with the most comments:

P Johnson tailoring: Review



Some good work has been done in assembling a body of knowledge.

Tailors and brands have been reviewed, covered from personal experience, and put in context.

There are series of posts providing foundational knowledge on assessing quality, on the intricacies of cloth, and the principles of suit style. And a view has been put forward on dressing stylishly in this dress-down age. But there is still a long way to go.



The decade's post with the most visits:

Bespoke tailoring: cost, margin and value



I'm always open to comments about how this site could be improved (and hopefully that is also one of the things that defines it).

But for now, perhaps as a means of celebrating our 10th anniversary, I would like to know from readers what their favourite posts have been over all that time.

I'd genuinely like to know, and it could be a nice introduction for the tens of thousands of people that come to the site for the first time every month.

I also think it's a nice way to celebrate the writing that has always been at the core of what Permanent Style aspires to.

Try to mention just one or two. URLs or titles will probably be helpful.

Thank you all.


Photo: Andrew Barber for GQ China. Wearing Musella-Dembech cotton suit

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First congratulations. My view is that there remain remarkably few sites I read regularly. There is a lot of content out there, but very few favour quality, considered views over quantity. And I like that.

To the question. Personally bespoke suiting is out of my budgetary reach. But what this sites has done over the years is guide me in assembling a small stable of quality leather shoes. They last and are therefore good value. They will be with me for a long time. So through your posts on the subject you’ve given me something that will likely be with me forever. Specifically:


Don Ferrando

I only “discovered” PS short time ago. But every day I look it up to see if there is a new posting!
Keep on going!

Don Ferrando

In the last couple of monthes I went trough a lot of older postings.
And my favorites are the two talking about the Edward Sexton grey flannel suit and Edward Sexton grey flannel-when to where- both from 2015. Maybe because I like the suit so much.

In the end I commissioned a grey DB suit myself. Not from Sexton but still full bespoke!


Congratulations to a job well done!

I really like your articles and have bought some of the products. It amazes me that the quality of most menswear journalism is so bad. The articles may be well written and the photos amazing. But even niche magazines like the Rake are too uncritical. I want menswear journalism to be like other consumer journalism. Critical reviews, pros and cons etc. I dont know how many interviews Ive seen with Luca Rubinacci, Ralph Lauren and Tom Fords where the journalist evidently endorses them and describes them as god-given creature. No disrespect to these (great) personalities but articles about brands and artisans should be more like interviews with politicians or reviews of cars. One of the things I really appreciate with PS is that you write both about the good and the bad stuff. If something is “just ok” you write that.

Why do you think most menswear journalism is so uncritical? Are the writers to dependent of the corporations (for ads and shows) or are there any other explanation. I want menswear journalism to be a little less about the lifestyle and more about the consumer.


Congratulations Simon. Your site is a wealth of very useful knowledge and I am considerably poorer for having headed some of your advice.

My favourite post: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/01/building-a-wardrobe-neapolitan-tailoring.html


Wow, didn’t know you’ve been at this for so long! I discovered your site a few months ago, but only recently I’ve been reading lots of articles. I really appreciate the quality of the posts and I personally like the detailed descriptions of different styles and other aspects of tailoring you provide. My folder of menswear pictures is flooded with your photographs, and I love it.

I’m not sure I’d like to see more of a particular thing, I enjoy reading just about everything you post, and I encourage you to keep up the variety and depth 🙂


Simon, congratulations on reaching your tenth birthday!

I’m not at all surprised to see that ‘How to wear separate jacket and trousers’ is the site’s most popular post. This is one of the first major hurdles when one begins to learn how to dress well and the article is a great help in trying to navigate that potential minefield. I have now developed a knack for dressing in this way but still often return to that article when planning an ‘occasion’ outfit, as I find it useful for provoking new ideas.

My other favourite articles are perhaps unsurprisingly written in a similar ‘advisory’ vein. The first is the ‘Colour combinations, from casual to formal’ (https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/05/colour-combinations-from-casual-to-formal.html) piece. Again, this is something I revisit regularly and I find it prompts me to dress appropriately for a given situation, instead of ending up looking overdressed all the time. The ‘Sliding scale of formality’ article is useful for a similar reason.

Finally, I very much enjoyed the ‘History and families of fragrance’ piece (https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/02/the-history-and-families-of-fragrance.html). There isn’t enough high-quality writing around on the topic of fragrance. I consider it to be a vital component of style; as important as other carefully selected accessories, like belts or socks. I very much enjoy the handful of articles you have written on the subject.

Congratulations again and all the best for another successful decade ahead.

Mark R

Simon, congratulations on your 10 years, I’ve been reading you for about the last 3 and enjoy the site immensely.
Like your respondent above, bespoke clothing is way beyond my budget, however the style points so effectively discussed on here remain valid even when the actual clothes themselves are less rarified.

Looking back though, how would you say your focus has changed over the last 10 years?

“Something that is all about style and takes a practical look at men’s clothes: where you can get designer clothes at high-street prices; which of the labels offer the best value for money; how to tell if your off-the-peg suit fits you;”

It would be interesting to be able to sort the postings into a chronological order, I for one would like to go back and see how the site has developed.

Mark R

Found it Simon, thanks. There goes a few hours…


Happy birthday Permanent Style! Congratulations Simon and here’s to the next ten years and beyond.

One of my all time favourite articles is: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/07/how-to-dress-pale-colours-for-summer.html

Why? Well, one of the many strengths of PS is the attention to detail and a practical way of maintaining that detail is to write about your commissions and your experiences. However, this article allows you to bring your eye to what works well on other people with different physiques and styles – and then explains why it’s successful. For example, I don’t think we’d ever see you in a similar ensemble to Ethan (bright blue polka dots and a solaro suit) but to have him featured and then for you to explain why it works (in a similar manner to your colour combination articles) is brilliant and something I would love to see more of.

Thank you for allowing us to be part of your journey and best wishes for the future.


I think that commentary is also what elevates The Style Guide beyond a pretty book with pretty pictures – as my well thumbed copy will attest.


Absolutely it does! Netflix and chill has been replaced in my house with Style Guide and chill.


Congratulations on an outstanding and ongoing piece of journalism.

If I may, a word of thanks to your advertisers. I don’t know if they find you, or you them, but they’re very complementary to your writing. Through your website I’ve been introduced to some great brands who now take the lions share of my non-bespoke clothes budget.

Best wishes for the next 10 years.


Congratulations on 10 years, Simon. I’ve been reading the blog for a number of years and remember starting when I was looking for reviews on Reiss RTW suits and stumbled upon PS. Since then I have been logging on almost every day or so for any new posts!

There have been a number that I have enjoyed reading over the years, but particular standout articles that I coming back to include:

The formality of trousers: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2015/03/the-formality-of-trousers-reader-question.html

Wear a jacket or trousers at the weekend: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2012/02/wear-a-jacket-or-trousers-at-the-weekend.html

Why men are scared of real trousers: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2009/06/why-men-are-scared-of-real-trousers.html

I would also like to thank you for the quick response where I have previously added a question in the comments section within the blog and you replying really quickly!


“a lot of the style coverage is either ridiculously expensive (a recent GQ featured a photo shoot of Loro Piana sweaters ranging from £500 to £2000)”

Oh how you’ve changed Simon!


Peter Kuperis

I have followed PS for about three years now.

And yes I’ve also noticed how Simon has moved from praising ETRO (RTW) to bespoke and much more expensive clothing.

And while I am not willing to pay for many of the beautiful garments Simon examines I have learned a lot about quality, fit and how to dress with style. And knowing what some of the best brands are means sometimes I can get lucky and purchase something really fine at a great price. Like the Smedley scarves (merino not cashmere) that I purchased at deep discount (20 Canadian $, about 14 GBP) last year.

And in fairness to Simon we have to note that he has started exploring more MTM options – a good middle ground between RTW and bespoke, which can be more affordable than the high end RTW brands.

It’s also interesting to observe the cultural differences around clothing. Simon’s discussions of formality illustrate this. The grades of formality in the UK would be mostly irrelevant in Canada where almost any suit is formal and any outfit with a tie is “dressed up”.

Congratulations on 10 years Simon.

Matt B

Hi Simon

I came across this site about five years ago and i’m pretty sure i have read every post on this site. Budget restrictions apply but you have inspired me to start building a better quality wardrobe starting with bench made shoes (Bodileys after your review). Im certainly much more aware of how and where my clothes are produced. I have purchased a couple of your books and also found those of G Bruce Boyer through your site too.

Fav posts that come to mind:


Finally, thank you for the great site and i’m looking forward to many more.

Regards Matt B


Thanks Simon. It has been marv being part of the journey. I have always enjoyed the lists of 10 RTW / accessories. I commented on the Flannel Post re jackets and was lucky enough to receive some comments of good RTW etc (something that you don’t cover, for completely understandable reasons). What would be lovely would be a repository of user info for suggestions. Whilst you cannot vouch for lots of things you have a pretty sophisticated readership and it would be great if there was an easy way for everyone to benefit from that.


Hi Simon,

first, congratulation fot these 10 years, your work has been a staple for many gentlemen over the world.
Hard to select one or two articles, for your website is interesting as a whole, like a menswear encyclopedia. But if I had to pick one, it would be this one https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/05/seven-levels-of-formality.html and also this one https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/12/highlow-dressing.html
As I said in an other comment, it summarize what may be the greatest challenge for the modern classic menswear amateur: how to mix tailored clothes with more casual one. Unless you’re working in a very strict law firm, everyone has to manage with this issue, and it’s a tricky challenge. That’s why I would pick these one. They sum up a deep sartorial culture and help us to overpass it.
Merry christmas to you and your family.

David A

Hi Simon,
I’ve been reading your blog avidly for the past few years. I’ve learnt a lot and I can stride out with a lot more confidence and knowledge. My favourite postings , Five tips on trousers https://www.permanentstyle.com/2011/07/five-tips-on-trousers.html
Trouser colours to wear with odd jackets https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/03/trouser-colours-to-wear-with-odd-jackets.html
and Scarf outfits https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/01/scarf-outfits-solito-cifonelli-anderson-sheppard.html actually there’s more but I limit myself to these three.
I don’t have a Saville Row bespoke budget but I’ve managed to save up and have made a pair of grey flannel bespoke trousers from a tailor in York. I received them in October, I was so pleased with the fit and workmanship that I ordered a second pair, I’m expecting delivery in the New Year. The trousers have side adjusters and 1 ½ inch turn ups’ they’re so comfortable.
Because of the blog I’m now thinking on a different level.
Thanks a lot and keep it up.
David A


Congratulations and all the best always


WOW!! 10 years !

From reading earlier blogs around affordable bespoke at Graham Browne to current day postings on £2000 shoes.

I think in 2017 the blog has veered more towards your inner geekiness regarding the craft of making clothes and shoes and also the extreme price end of bespoke.
But alas every so often you’ve given us something within our reach to digest.

Blogs on the basics are still very, very much needed and those educating men on colour and proportion regards clothing .
Also what about travelling beyond London into the regions to highlight great tailoring in Yorkshire , Lancashire , the Midlands etc

I’ve actively searched for other blogs like yours but seriously there is nothing quite like PS .

Many, many congratulations !

Where do you go from here ?


Rabster is quite right. Also interested in how you can benefit bespoke, the mass market and the average joe; having gained all the knowledge you have got.


What I’ve learnt from PS

1 how things should fit
2 get your RTW clothes tailored
3 pay more buy less
4 go for bespoke otherwise MTM otherwise quality RTW which you tailor to fit
5 colour … … wear cream trousers , brown trousers, grey jackets
6 shoes are very important
7 evangelise PS … … at first they will ignore you , then fight you and then come to you and say “Can you help me shop for a wedding suit .” (yes, that is a literal example I have experienced)

what I have yet to learn / embrace
1 should I really spend £1000 plus on a suit ?
2 shoes for over £350 !
3 buy less, pay more

P.S. has changed how I dress and that has literally changed me .
Its not narcissism … it’s a pride and respect for oneself and others

You’ve done something remarkable with PS.

My congratulations to you and warmest seasons greeting and wishes for a happy new year.


Congratulations Simon!

To be honest I’ve know of the site for quite sometime, but only this year have I made it a point to regularly digest it. I appreciate what you do even more because you do come from the journalistic side. I feel that the majority of the menswear guys you see on social media either own a shop, or work for a haberdashery. This can sometimes be detrimental for folks like me and many of your readers because we have to wear clothing in different industries, business settings, sales meetings. Majority of the stuff you see these guys wear looks great when they take a photo in their shop, but it’s not something I could take to a board meeting and be taken seriously.

You provide insightful information that is useful to me and my profession. I hail from the American South and I feel more so than the rest of the U.S. that we still have a sense of occasion and dress accordingly, particularly classic British style. My father raised me on Alan Flusser and Bernhard Roetzel books, and I feel this site is simply a continuation of the knowledge I learned at a young age.


Here’s to the next 10 years. I wonder how your style will evolve. One thing I would say about this site, in contrast to some analogous blogs, is that the quality of the photographs is superb, ftand this really enhances the posts for me. Hats off to Jamie Ferguson. Best posts for me are the really high end suit reviews, Ciffonelli, Liverano, etc. Doubt I’ll ever be able to afford this level of suiting but I’m still fascinated, in a window shopping way. Better still are posts on high quality but affordable bespoke/mtm. I’ve booked an appointment with SamanAmal in February as a result of the recent review here. Love the city guides too but I guess there probably aren’t many more suitable destinations to cover. Coverage of UK tailors operating outside of London might be interesting. They do exist.


Happy 10th Anniversary! It’s been a real pleasure reading your articles and learning from your experiences.

Ironically, one of the posts that has made the most impact on me was a very recent post of your Q&A: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/12/am-i-effeminate-am-i-vain-reader-questions-on-style-and-its-context.html

I think for several beginners, like once myself, it is helpful to not only learn the ‘what’ but also the ‘why.’ Perhaps, this article best represents the ‘why’ from someone who has made the same mistakes I might make in the future. It’s like asking your grandfather about how to be a good husband versus asking your best friend who’s the same age as you. There’s something about the knowledge and wisdom from someone who has been through the ups and downs.

Secondly, the other article I find myself turning to most (very much related to “Which Office Are You?”) is: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/05/colour-combinations-from-casual-to-formal.html

It’s a great example of how to incorporate another color rather than gray or blue into a sliding scale of formality. This article is the ‘what’. It also addresses the very real issue of dressing for the occasion by giving practical examples.

Finally, my third favorite article is: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/06/how-to-dress-for-summer-reader-question.html

Summer is real where I live. It is brutal at times and can make dressing elegantly a little more challenging. Again, it’s great to have real practical examples to use as a rule of thumb.

Thank you very much for your contribution to educating other men and sharing your experiences. For me, it is something that I could not do on my own, and I know that you have made real sacrifices in your life to provide this outstanding piece of work. Here’s to another 10 years!


Congratulations Simon! PS is one of the few blogs I read daily and, while I may have spent more money as a direct result, I also think I’ve spent more smartly, and I certainly look much better! I still remember turning to PS at the beginning of my style journey, when I came to the realization that, despite the fact I now had the disposable income to afford the “designer” clothes I had always coveted, I still didn’t look very good! 6 years later, PS continues to be a source of great inspiration and pleasure today, just as it was then. Thank you!

My all time top articles are “How to wear separate jacket and trousers” and “Buy good English shoes” so it’s not at all surprising to see them as the most popular. However, seeing as they’ve already been featured (along with some other great ones in the comments) I will add two that had particular relevance for me:

Jacket and jeans might be the most common menswear blunder seen today and yet, when done right, it can be so useful. At the time most menswear forums seemed to be full of stodgy trads venting spleen about how gentlemen should only wear jeans when doing manual labor (or some other such nonsense!) This article was one of the first (and certainly most practical) guides to explain how to make it work and, even more importantly, why certain combinations work, while others don’t

Combining two here – there’s no shortage of online articles about harmonizing colors, usually featuring multi-hued rainbow wheels and words like triad and tetradic. The problem with most of them is they’re not very useful when you start picking out clothing, and it’s easy to end up making terrible mistakes with bright overly-contrasting colors that make you look like an extra from Glee. Although early in PS history, both articles stood out for their simple, practical tips, that could immediately be put into action. Exactly the same reason PS is still such a valuable resource today.


I agree,

I find the articles about color theory have been the ones I find most thought-provoking. The two above, plus the “fun with flowers” mentioned by Jose, below.

They may not be the most practical on a day to day basis, but I think they are some of the most thought out articles which a) shape how I can make my own outfits, and b) provide me the vocabulary to articulate why a particular combination does or doesn’t work

Barry Pullen

My favorite post? I don’t even need two seconds to think about it–

The monumental ‘BATTLE HYMN.’ If someone were reading Permanent Style for the first time, that’s where I’d have him start.

Happy anniversary, Simon. To us all.

Digby AG

Hi Simon,

Ten years! cant believe its been going that long!

This is my favorite post:


I like it because before I read it I had no idea how to buy a suit, of course I needed to remember how to use my credit card first 🙂




Congratulations, Simon!
I remember discovering you on Instagram a few years ago because another member had posted a picture of you in a beautiful Solito jacket. After that I discovered your wonderful “blog” and it’s been my go to site for menswear ever since.

I’ll say my favourite posts have been the ones that opened my eyes a bit regarding things I would’ve avoided but now love.

1. https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/01/video-how-to-tie-a-scarf.html

Helped me to see how lighter scarves can be a wonderful accessory in menswear when I previously would’ve guessed they were to feminine for myself.

2. https://www.permanentstyle.com/2015/08/fun-with-flowers-wearing-a-buttonhole.html

I always hated flowers on lapels; both when fake, as a casual accessory, or formally in weddings. I felt they just stood out so awkwardly and took away from an outfit. Thankfully though, the above post has helped me with wedding planning and I now am excited to wear a flower that will just be a compliment.


Congratulations on 10 years. Yours is easily the best blog going. With Will leaving the blogoshere, I think yours and DieWorkwear are the only two I check on a weekly basis now.

Most read? I would say What Trousers to Wear with Grey Jackets: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/05/trousers-to-wear-with-grey-jackets-reader-question.html as you got me addicted to grey jackets (wearing one now) & Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2015/05/hopsack-blazer-the-perfect-summer-jacket.html ( I got one in single breasted made and love it)

Thank you again for all the work and look forward to another 10!


I’ve been reading PS for about a year now. I’ve read many of the older posts especially ones you’ve highlighted in some manner on your site. I think my favorite posts were the degrees of formality article you did with all the different levels of dress, and I love the occasional series how beautiful things age, especially when it’s been done on shoes.


Hey Simon,

my congrats! As so many readers stated before – you are doing a great job here. For me the most important thing is that I can feel your passion for style, craftmanship and quality in your writing. It’s not just like the technical aspect of trying and recommending certain items. There’s always an idea of how it should or could actually be. This led to some – sufficiently discussed – cooperations that show the quintessence of your experiences and insights. In my opinion one have to be pretty brave to make such a step because one will be judged not only by words but by doings.
My favourite posts are the ones I started with on PS – the “The rules and how to break them” series:

Ever since PS is one of my daily readings. Keep on going, Simon. Looking forward to the next ten years.

Cheers, Karsten


Happy Anniversary Simon, here’s to ten more. I’d have to say the articles in which you provide guidance on how to start building a wardrobe have been my favourite. With so many avenues it can be hard to know where to start so your advice has been much appreciated, to the point where I commissioned my first bespoke navy worsted suit from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury off the back of your recommendation.



This one, because if a new reader read (an applied) only this post and nothing else, he could still be light years ahead of most guys around him: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/05/seven-levels-of-formality.html

And this post: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/03/how-wide-should-my-jacket-lapels-be.html

I’m not sure why I have read it so many times; one would think that once or twice would be enough. But perhaps my appreciation of the post is because none of the lapels pictured within are skinny, and (to me) a wider lapel helps communicate masculinity and even a bit of…danger, in the same way a lion with a large mane is scarier than a lion with a small mane.

Perhaps I am alone in my opinion on this, but in the same way that one takes someone less seriously because they are dressed poorly, a wider lapel makes me take a well-dressed man even more seriously. To my eye, the wider lapel subcommunicates a greater appreciation of sartorial detail the same way a well made shoe does. In fact, even before looking at shoes, my eye naturally goes to the lapel.


Congratulations, Simon. Your articles have been extremely helpful to me during the 7 years or so I’ve been reading PS, and without them I can’t imagine where my sense of style would be today. You’ve also answered a lot of questions personally, and I’m very thankful for that. My favorite bits have been all the capsule articles, which I’d like to see more of in the future. Keep it up and, again, thank you!

Nigel C

Simon – Congratulations on ten years. Your website is a source inspiration and reference as well as a good, regular read.

My favourite articles are the ones that make you actually think about what you wear and how to put things together. Referenced by others are: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/02/which-office-are-you-or-a-sliding-scale-of-formality.html and https://www.permanentstyle.com/2013/10/how-to-wear-separate-jackets-and-trousers.html . We all have more than enough in our wardrobes, in spite of constantly looking for that next must have item. These are the kind of posts that challenge you to extract all the versatility from the pieces you already have. In the thought provoking vein I also loved https://www.permanentstyle.com/2015/11/clothing-is-not-important.html.

It’s also great to learn about interesting new producers and to get a proper and honest view of them, and then use them oneself. Even my wife is pleased I followed up on the Simone Abbarchi posts!

Good luck for the future years and in the next adventures! Nigel


Hi Simon,

Was the pop up shop a commercial success in the end? I presume it was even more popular than last time and hopefully that transferred into profit…


Congratulations!!!!! greetings from Spain, we, Spaniards are great admirers of British stile but your blog goes further and introduces us stiles from other cultures, thanks for all these years


Dear Simon,
The Huntsman dinner was simply unforgettable. The participants truly expressed their individuality and pleasure in dressing. I now have several good friends on both sides of the Atlantic of those who have attended. I would like to thank you again for inviting me. Please continue to fight the good fight, carry the torch and shed light and help. Wishing you and your family all the best for Christmas and the New Year

AJ Burns

Bravo Simon. Keep up the great work. As a reader who has followed the journey from the start – it is great to see your sartorial story unfold and learn and develop along side you.


Many congratulations on this landmark, and also thanks for your thoughtful and rapid advice. The standouts for me are the comparative pieces that are unique and invaluable for those making the first and uncertain steps into bespoke. In particular I’d be loath to count just how many times I’ve read the following two posts:



I wondered, have you considered doing something similar for evening wear?


Congratulations Simon. Your posts continue to be a source of both inspiration and insightful advice. I very much enjoy reading them and purchases at A & S (both tailoring and haberdashery), Elia Caliendo,, Edward Green, Drakes and Simone Abbarchi are all down to posts on this page. Please continue to share your journey with us.


Your singular accomplishment, of course, is the creation of a compendium about bespoke tailors. Accounts of the tailoring experience and reviews of the product—usually nuanced and appropriately critical—accompanied by photos and for such a sheer variety of houses simply doesn’t appear elsewhere on the web. In many cases, your commissions (e.g. the Taub peacoat, that Caliendo tweed) have also set my aesthetic benchmark, informing me about what’s possible so that I know where my tailors/manufacturers fall short. You’ve made better consumers of us all.

For future content, I’d recommend
1. more updates about previous commissions. The idea that a higher price can be justified by higher quality and a greater number of use is one that usually goes unchallenged. Part of the reason for this is the dearth of information for how things actually age. In particular, I’m interested in when and why an item simply becomes unwearable. Did the upper leather crack? Did the crotch wear out? Did a zipper fall out? When? Comparisons are also very valuable. Shop vs shop. Fabric vs. fabric. Is a goodyear welt really more durable than a blake? Does hand-stitching really outlast machine-stitching?

2. more non-suiting commissions. Reiterating my above point about setting aesthetic benchmarks, I’ve always held fascination in your leather, denim, knitwear projects equal to that in formalwear ones. In particular, I’d be interested in seeing a bespoke trench and oversized cardigan. Perhaps it’s not worth going bespoke for these items, but you never know.

3. more criticalness. I’ve read some of the major threads on menswear forums, where no-holds-barred takedowns is the norm. For all the incivility and triviality that follows, there’s also a major positive that the culture produces. One tends to be more incisive when he’s set out to shit on an item, and from time to time he makes a point that make me see an item differently. Perhaps incisivity and fairness can go hand-in-hand, though I simply hope to see more of the former, regardless of whether it’s accompanied by the latter.

Binayak Thapa

Congratulations Simon!! So many good posts and so much entertainment over the years. I love your own evolution from early posts on Graham Browne and HK tailors to Saville Row and Cifonelli to Italian artisnal tailor. Have certainly followed and loved the journey.

My link is not for the writeup, but because I think this is the best suit I have seen and the photo of the waistcoat is pure art:



Hello Simon,

Congratulations on reaching a decade of writing this fantastic blog. Having become interested in tailored clothing in the past two years, I began exploring the blogosphere on the topic and ran into your informative blog. It’s taught me so much about how to dress and I look forward to continuing to follow your sartorial exploration. My favourite post that I’ve read so for has been the guide to cloth. Of course, I haven’t yet plumbed the entire archive so my opinion may change however the guide will still rank highly. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and perspective with us classic menswear enthusiasts.