Looking back on it, I think I found the first few years of doing PS as a full-time job quite lonely. It’s hard to make friends with anyone in the industry when you’re constantly commenting on them publicly. The kind of person I was interviewing was also generally older than me, and we didn’t have much in common.
I felt quite a lot of personal pressure to make it successful - I’d quit my career of 15 years, and had two children and a mortgage to support. The site had a good foundation, but it always felt as if something (Instagram, TikTok) was threatening to sweep it all away.
It was really nice, therefore, when Lucas (below left) started working on PS four years ago. It was only part time, but it was lovely to have someone to involve in every decision - as well as to just say everything was going fine (which of course you always know, but it still makes a difference when someone else says so).
Actually, there’s actually an interesting body of research around the benefits of talking to someone - anyone, even an orangutan - about the things that chase themselves round the inside your head. Even if it’s something as sophisticated as a scientific theory, forcing yourself to communicate can spark connections that you would never make on your own.
Lucas has now taken on more days, and Manish is contributing regularly. Manish also runs social media and is involved in a lot of the events.
Add to that the regular photographers Alex and Jamie, and other contributors like Aleks (below) and André, and there is something of a ‘crew’ - as one reader put it recently.
I’m closer friends with several brands too. Oliver and Carl from Rubato came up recently, but there are half a dozen others. I’m not sure why that has happened now - maybe because we’re more similar ages, maybe because doing our own products means we have more in common.
It’s been so lovely. I enjoy my job today more than I've ever done. From the outside you often think it’s the nature or profile of someone’s job that makes it enjoyable, but in my experience it’s more the people and the place - the day-to-day experience.
I rarely do trips on my own anymore. When we go to Pitti, Lucas and Alex and I usually stay together. When we do the pop-up in New York, it’s with Oliver and Carl. It makes the trip actually, really enjoyable. Not just tiring and a bit lonely (missing my family) but ‘worthwhile’. Actually fun.
After 17 years of doing Permanent Style, I don’t think I can thrash myself in the same way I used to. I can’t take cheap flights at bad times, eat cheaply, never take a taxi. Maybe I don’t have the stamina for it; maybe I’m finally giving myself a break.
Today I’m appreciating all these things that make me happy. Going for a run during Pitti rather than feeling I have to socialise every night. Learning how good Swedish people are at table tennis, as Oliver (below, centre) and Carl casually suggested a game at Cellar Dog in New York and then utterly destroy us.
A more substantial point here is that PS still remains as independent as always. Friends know what PS is - as a service, as a business - and they respect me and it too much to ask me to cover something I wouldn’t otherwise, or cover it more favourably.
They know that I will like some things they make, and not others. They know that that’s how PS works, and what so many readers find valuable about it.
From the outside this could seem like a hard balance to strike, as you want your friends to do well. But I find good friends always have that kind of honesty and understanding.
Interestingly, I find friends also appreciate how the PS business model has evolved over the years. They know we promote hundreds of brands for free, and that advertising is a harder revenue source to generate than ever - as big brands prioritise ‘influencers’ and small ones go direct to the consumer.
Selling our own products - which will always be sometimes adjacent to theirs - could be an awkward topic, but I’ve consistently found that people who know and understand PS also get the dynamic.
Until the day we start selling every basic known to man, shouting about 'cutting out the middle man', and conducting Black Friday sales, I think that’s likely to continue.
Much has changed in the 17 years since PS began. I’ve gone from being someone very much on the outside of menswear to someone on the inside, not just as a journalist but as a designer too.
But the loveliest aspect of all of it has been the group of intelligent, interesting, kind - and yes, very stylish - people I’ve got to know. I dearly hope I get to carry on working with them for many years to come.
Colour images: Jamie Ferguson, from our Anniversary Open day. Black and white: Milad Abedi, from our Anniversary Dinner
Everything is nicer with friends
TRUE!!!!!!!!!!!
What a thoughtful and respectful nod to the crew…and a nice transparent self-reflection, bravo! I, as a long time reader, enjoy the development and love the idea that you go for a run at Pitti and experience a bit of normal life on site much more than seeing only the “professional” take of maker portraits etc.
On a side note, I don’t think the PS products are in competition to these other brands, at least not for me. I have to admit I am more drawn to the Rubato products because of PS. I think of it more like a cross-fertilising humus, much like the the historical context of a street of cobblers, shirtmakers, sock vendors (you name it) that are somehow like-minded and build a center of competence rather than cannibalising each other.
Great article, and if Manish’s humour which comes through his articles and Lucas’ sarcastic quip about not contracting trench foot when he bought some Blake stitched boots are anything to go by, I can see why it’s enjoyable.
Given your background was not in clothing and you were developing your credibility, did you ever experience resentment from those you were critiquing in the early days?
Good question. If it was someone I had met in person and interviewed, I didn’t usually find that was the case. Because I was clearly so earnest and open in my approach, and asked good questions (and then reflected the answers accurately) the person knew they were getting a good hearing.
To be frank it’s in stark contrast to what you see on TikTok these days, which is a lot of people who are as young as I was then, but don’t bother to interview anyone or understand their topic, yet still pontificate on everything.
Although again being frank, the only reason I approached it in that way was it was how I had been trained. It’s why we always found it was better to hire curious, honest writers rather than subject specialists. If you’re not afraid to ask stupid questions, you learn a lot very quickly.
I like this reply in an age where everyone seems to have a very firm and loudly voiced opinion on everything, no matter her/his knowledge and experience on this matter.
Hi Simon – younger reader here. Couldn’t agree more with your point above on the state of style-related discourse on social media. As a twentysomething, I’ve found it quite difficult to find honest, detailed and well-informed advice on clothing. This site was a revelation for me when I stumbled upon it a few months ago, not just for the journalistic standards here, but also for the breadth of coverage and the approach PS takes in recommending clothing. The capsule wardrobe articles have been especially useful: it is so rare to see advice online that factors in the nuances of people’s varying lifestyles and offers suggestions accordingly. Kudos!
One question related to the subject of a ‘crew’ (and sorry if you’ve answered this before): which menswear writers/blogs/websites do you personally read and/or interact with regularly? As I continue to learn about quality menswear, I’d like to also gain more exposure to quality writing on the subject!
Many thanks.
Thanks Samin, that’s lovely to hear.
Frankly, there aren’t many I read. Die Workwear, though Derek doesn’t write that much anymore. For magazines, L’Etiquette but there isn’t much else
Good thoughts. Probably most of us (loyal readers) have not realized for how long we have been reading PS and how it has influenced our daily life. Looking forward: keep it free and when it is the right time open up the capital to followers and friends (to the extent they are not involved in the fashion industry – just a club of passionate people).
Lovely piece. Congratulations on everything you have achieved
Lovely article. It is so difficult to find a website that feels independent, everything is sponsored or affiliated. I know some of your articles in the past have drawn criticism that they feel sponsored, i.e Rubato. However, I think anyone who has read your blog would know the value you put on quality and surely wouldn’t risk that reputation pushing a brand (or item) you didn’t feel matched PS standards.
Like you have alluded to true friends would understand your independent role.
Any advice to someone looking to move into a role in fashion from another industry?
Thanks Henry.
Interestingly, I have an article coming up on that, hold that thought!
17 years !!! Gosh !
I think I’ve followed you for about 15. I can’t even remember how I started .
From seeing your small ‘palm sized’ book in Dhillions bookstore to visiting the London popup, ordering MTM shirts from Simone to finally ordering the tweed cloth and getting a jacket made .. and a suit … and another !
Interestingly , the mention of your name does get a mixed response with those in the ‘industry’ that I’ve come across . Sadly like all craftspeople they don’t take kindly to any critique from an ‘outsider’ so I can imagine how lonely it must have been.
Thank you for enriching our lives, raising the quality of our wardrobes and substantially reducing our savings accounts !
The very best moving on .
Thank you Robin
A very nice post to read on a Friday (just about) morning! Great that you are enjoying it more than ever.
I hope you, the crew and all readers have a great weekend!
Being an entrepreneur can indeed be a lonely proposition. The enthusiasm and belief required to be successful with it at the beginning must be more or less entirely self-generated, even if you have a supportive spouse. But then, as you go on, you find that the universe tends to give you what you need, just when you need it. Great people, who you never knew before, emerge from the mist to join you in the fight.
Very resonating with me that a good team makes a job great.
I wonder if you would open some space to the “crew” over a piece of clothing, or a brand favorite within an article – or would you rather keep a very clean journalistic approach – i.e one piece – one voice ?
Have a great week end friends
I can see that being nice, yes Tristan. I already find it makes sense to have Manish, Lucas or André write about some things that are less my style, so we might also have different takes on the same thing
I’ve been a loyal reader for ten years or so and have enjoyed the journey. I learned about Private White from PS and six garments later, with a seventh soon, I like the company more than ever. This is just one real world example of how you’ve helped one reader in the quest for true permanent style Simon and I’m grateful. I’m also a PS shop customer and will become more active in 2025. Thanks again for what you do!
avengers assemble
I presume you mean the stylish Avengers from 1961?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Avengers_(TV_series)
The old adage that always gets thrown around is that if ‘you find a job you love, you never have to work a day in your life’. I’m an accountant so my job is definitely not my passion but I have always looked with some scepticism at people who pointed to that quote because many successful people I have met through M+A due diligence work who started their own businesses and clearly ‘love’ (are very passionate about) their work, actually seem to work far more, and live with far more stress than anyone who collects a paycheck as a normal employee.
Given that you managed to turn a passion project into your full time occupation I am interested to here your thoughts on how you view work now. Do you still see the site as work? Did the fact clothes and menswear became your job in some ways dampen the interest you have for it when you are outside of working hours? It’s always an interesting theme to explore for someone who has not lived this experience that you and many others have of changing course in life career wise towards a passion project.
Interesting questions Albert. I do still see the site as work, and approach it in that way, which I think is very healthy. Most of making this successful is not about having taste or dressing well or writing well, it’s about running a business well. Or at least half is. The quote that always stays with me is ‘everyone wants to start a brand; no one wants to start a business’. In fashion at least.
The fact it’s my business hasn’t dampened my enjoyment of it at all, but then again there is no ‘out of work’ anymore really, it’s all consuming!
Simon, as someone who has built a successful platform in the menswear space, how do you think small businesses like yours can effectively leverage artificial intelligence in digital marketing to compete with larger corporations, particularly in areas like personalised customer engagement, content creation, or optimizing online sales?
To be honest, I think small brands and makers will do better by avoiding those kinds of things. Bigger brands will go more in that direction, become more anonymous, and the value of human, authentic interactions will become ever more important. The idea that you can walk into a small shop, they know you, and you’re connected to the people actually designing the product, will seem incredible
Its always good to have ”mates” at work. And nice to avoid the cheapest travel arrangements if you can, especially when you are a bit older.
I started following PS in 2009 so I was early to the party but not among the first. I fondly remember articles about Loro Piana outlets and sales at Graham Browne. And your first experiences and experiments with bespoke.
I have enjoyed following the ride and hope it will continue in different directions.
Great post! Wish your whole “crew” all the best for the future!! 🙂
Great article! And I’d like to thank the entire PS crew for what you guys doing. Unfortunately these days many people in menswear turn into cultish nerds. To me your team is opposite of that.
Yeah, I have been reading PS for years. It’s an accomplishment to have it progress to its present form. It’s also fun to compare how I have evolved since then. I use to be excited for bespoke and trying it. Now, I find bespoke an unnecessary luxury after experiencing it. I found that I am fine with MTM versus bespoke after the costs and experience. I also find some brands featured on this site overpriced and underwhelming. I guess that also is because of how much more expensive things are since covid. Other brands featured here are the opposite. They are great value such as Harley. Also, the reader profiles are interesting and more should be done. However, I have to say I find Mannish’s contributions a total bore and his writing style even worse. I prefer Simon’s writing than Mannish’s verbose meandering style.
Thanks Dan, but please be polite, no need to say things like ‘total bore’
DAN..BE NICE
Mannish is BRILLIANT!
As a long-time follower of this blog, I completely disagree. I find Manish‘s articles and writing style great and he is a very good addition for PS.
Simon, may I suggest that your readers who send in comments be considered part of the crew? Due to your enlightened but firm moderation, you have a community of interested, knowledgeable, and interesting commentators who add additional depth and breadth to the articles. Personally, I read almost all of the comments, and am always amazed at the quality of the discussion. The depth of knowledge of some readers is genuinely humbling and an important vehicle for improving my own views in the ever evolving world of menswear.
I completely agree, it’s absolutely one of the best things about all this
Your blog is the last man standing of the full force #menswear craze that peaked around 2014. I really appreciate that you evolved the concept of a blog and not turned to social media with it’s logic of hit and run content. Additionally you stayed in touch with the ever changing zeitgeist but also stayed true to your concept in the core. Thank you very much for beeing the best and Most relyable source for clotheshorses.
No problem Dr Andresen, thank you for the kind words
This is a nice story. And yes, having a cheer squad and someone to bounce ideas off from will help professionally and sometimes even just as a sounding board when you just want to vent.
It always helps that the crew is like minded enough yet diverse enough to keep it interesting.
Hi all: how appropriate that this was published as we here in the US are celebrating thanksgiving. Many thanks to the crew and looking forward to many more years of this personal relationship.
Ah yes, I hadn’t thought about that! Thanks Howie and look forward to seeing you soon. I hope your suede overshirt works out well
Nice post, reminding us what elegance really is.
Good morning…we all need a few outstanding friends i. Our lives….not a whole lot just a few…peace
Hi Simon,
I have a long question that might be a bit philosophical for a Saturday but in the spirit of talking to someone, here goes – is there a point at which during the discovery of your personal style that you stop making “mistakes” and eventually achieve stasis, for lack of a better word?
For example my ultimate aim is to buy classic, high quality items that will last both in terms of durability and style so that over time rather than buying anything new I am simply repairing or, if needed, replacing an item with one of similar quality to last. The problem is these higher quality goods are understandably more expensive than their fast fashion counterparts and if you make an error with these then it’s both costly and can be similarly wasteful (unless donated or sold on to a new wearer). In a recent case I’ve now decided that I would prefer wider jeans than my current pairs so that they’re similar in taper to my chinos which means I’ll need to purchase new jeans and find a new home for the old ones.
As a keen PS reader I am obviously interested in clothes, which could be both seen as a hobby or an obsession depending on your perspective. Ideally I would like to be less obsessed with clothes partly for the benefit of my wallet and so my time is spread on other activities. I am younger than you so I’m curious to know about your journey as someone older who may have made these same mistakes and could offer advice. Or perhaps I need to reframe my perspective about my clothes interest? Or hire a psychiatrist instead of asking you.
Tom
Ha!
You certainly get better at it Tom, and buy less. But on the other hand you will certainly change your mind on some things and trends will change a little too.
My suggestion would be to not go so far in terms of quality if you can’t afford. Go for decent quality, not the best, so you can afford to buy a little more or the journey is a little more affordable.
There is a bit on this in my post here
Hi Tom you wrote Ideally I would like to be less obsessed with clothes partly for the benefit of my wallet and so my time is spread on other activities.
Maybe you could ask yourself what would be the consequences if you spend too much money or all of your time on clothes? Would there be a knock on effect on friends family socially, economically or personally, or maybe some other effect? Do you need to reframe your perspective?
I read this interview the other day that may help?
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/09/workwear-and-tailoring-how-to-dress-like-willy-wang.html
Tom,
I was (perhaps still am) in a similar predicament to you. I love clothes but have to accept the likelihood that I will never be able to afford to buy certain pieces, or indeed the range of clothing I would like. I am likely a bit older than you so I few things I have picked up on over the years that hopefully may be of use.
Don’t view things as mistakes. We buy things for a reason, accept that tastes will change and don’t fret about whether or not a piece will last for years, or that you will still love it further down the line. As you say, things can be sold or gifted if needed.
Work out the difference between what you really need and what you love, and buy more of the former, it simplifies things and really gets you to hone in on really key pieces. In truth I probably own about 15 pieces of outerwear, I only regularly wear 3-4 of them. Working out what you actually wear makes future buying a lot easier.
Don’t spend what you can’t afford. It may seem obvious but be realistic and set a budget. Being open to compromise is a good thing and there are so many options available you can still find clothing you will love and enjoy within your budget. For example, I will probably never be able to buy a fully bespoke suit unless I change career. In the end I spent about £2k on a MTM suit, it will never be 100% what I wanted but it is still a lovely item that I enjoy wearing and if we are being honest, I am still lucky to be able to afford that, it would be beyond many people’s means.
Finally, don’t discount pre worn items. It is lovely to be able to buy new but there are lots of high quality items out there that can be affordable whereas the same item new would not. I recently bought a pair of TLB shoes online for £120. They are near perfect and saved me around £300 on a new pair.
I would also say that a limited budget definitely makes one appreciate owning a small handful of really great pieces. I am not in anyway criticising those with much larger budgets, but sometimes perhaps being able to afford everything you desire does not always provide the most fulfilment. There is a lot of satisfaction in saving up for something and finally being able to afford it. You really look after those things and don’t take them for granted.
Hope this helps!
So solid (stripes) crew?
What a fun topic: the concept of social crews. It reminds me of the Alfargo’s Crew in NYC and the vintage clothing crews in Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York. The menswear scene has been a great source of “crew-ification” and a community to join in without any real pretense or gate-keeping. “You like clothes?, you’re in!” Maybe you could interview various clothing crews for future articles? What unites them? Who brings what the mix? The evolution and potential goals?
Yeah, very nice idea
Hey Simon! I will be in London mid December. Any places that I must check out new menswear openings? I’m excited to check out some rubato in person at taillour. Any recommendations would be great 🙂
I love this piece, Simon. So much of what has kept me coming back to your blog is that there is the human interest aspect, the radical honesty piece, and the free-ranging creative nonfiction element that makes your essays (or posts) feel like conversations with smart people (without a whiff of condescension). It also feels like the reportage of a far-flung correspondent without the stiffness. It’s what I nudge my own students to write in the composition classroom. Full disclosure — I don’t care nearly as much about clothing as I used to (when I first read PS) — but I’m not here for the style advice.
You are a reflective man Simon. It feels like taking stock, and celebrating what you’ve achieved on your own, and lately in collaboration.
For me your journalism experience shines through. There’s a thoughtfulness and rigour that is missing elsewhere, especially on commercial sites and mags. They sound needy and desperate. And I suppose they are both.
Also, I mentioned when we talked at your London pop-up, your moderating and interaction with readers is exquisite. Your tone is lovely, and of course consistent. And you stick up for fairness.
17 years – congratulations and admiration.
Cheers Kevin
Well said Simon! We don’t acknowledge and appreciate those that add something to our lives enough these days, so well done.
Bravo.
Congrats for having a supportive crew around you, and a wider community of fans beyond that to support the PS journey in the years ahead!
It’s called success. Here’s to more of it.
Thank you Edouard
As usual great article Simon and I appreciate your honesty when writing these articles.
Lovely article
Must have a been a lonely furrow to plough in a highly niche area, Simon
But what you’ve done is remain accessible, trusted and always balanced. That’s a rare talent over the years
You deserve the enjoyment (and accolades)
Thank you Andrew
Excelente tus arliculos que leo en Diciembre. Felicitaciones
Any chance you could rerun this article from 2020 for this Christmas as I have just read it again and found it very useful (the comments)
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/01/the-permanent-style-awards-2020-value-investment-and-women.html
Jon
Hey Jon,
We will do so again, yes, but it will be in the New Year, as it’s an end-of-year awards kind of thing
Nice
Interesting share. From the outside it always looked like you were the centre of all anyway.
Based on my experience setting up three companies, I think what happens is that simply you become more successful and so naturally people want to stick around. Nonody wants to be part of a failing project. So I believe you are simply to relevant to not be interesting.
Who would have thought that some dudes don‘t want to socialize at Pitti 🙂