Cifonelli Japanese jacket
I love Lorenzo Cifonelli’s constant innovation in his menswear designs. Some I like more than others, but I love the embroidery of the Japanese symbol for love on the lapel of this grey jacket. I’d go for a bit of subtle embroider...
Cifonelli Japanese jacket
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Hey Certainly some good tailors and a bit cheaper, though I haven't tried any personally so can't really recommend directly...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 6: Finished article
The Rubinacci jacket is back, and feeling pretty good. Having been worn once, all day today, I don’t feel it’s too early to say that this is the most comfortable bespoke jacket I’ve ever worn. That might not be surprising, given tha...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 6: Finished article
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It was a vintage piece Rubinacci had - worth asking them, but otherwise it might not be available...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 5: Naples
I was in Naples this week, to see Kiton, Rubinacci, Marinella, Attolini and Tavarico among others. It was a wonderful if sweltering way to learn more about Neapolitan style and tailoring. Serves me right for going in July. First off, my second fittin...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 5: Naples
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There are basting stitches there, yes. But they are not to attach the lining, if only because there will be no lining in the back! The jacket will be half lined. At this fitting stage the lining on the too foreparts was ...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 4: first fitting
First fitting for the Rubinacci cashmere jacket, with Mariano. A fair few adjustments at this, basted stage. Dropping right shoulder slightly, shortening left sleeve (though the sleeves were a better length than any other tailor has got them first ti...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 4: first fitting
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This looks sooo comfy and classy!...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 3: Measuring
Following on from the previous two posts in the Rubinacci series, on cloth and style, this week runs through the measuring and opinions on tailoring as a whole. The biggest difference between Rubinacci and other, English tailors that have featured in...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 3: Measuring
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Wow, nice blast from the past - no I've never seen that, though things have changed at Huntsman once or twice since this article, so maybe they were experimenting with it more at one point...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 2: Style
I was interested in the Rubinacci vintage cloth for my jacket (see previous post here) but wanted something a little more substantial than the French linen. This is England after all. In particular, I thought something with a pattern akin to a Donega...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 2: Style
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Hi Simon, I looked around for a suitable article to bring this up. Hope this fits the bill. Considering getting one of Rampley & Co.s fine art silk linings for a double breasted blazer size in a heavyweight and somew...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth
The next series to feature on Permanent Style will look at the making of a cashmere jacket at Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci, based on interviews and fittings with Mariano and Luca in London and a visit to the Naples workrooms to see it being made. For ...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth
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To be honest John, I find it funny that you can associate jeans with things like expertise or being a gentleman. It's such an oddly narrow view of the world....
Variations on the summer dinner jacket
The Burma shade summer dinner jacket Esquire, August 1936: “The old summer formal combination of blue jacket and white flannels got the gong because of its obvious incongruity with summer evening dresses. “Hence the white dinner j...
Variations on the summer dinner jacket
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Hi Simon, Can I ask your advice about a white dinner jacket. I am thinking of having one made for use in the summer. I was planning on a single-breasted peak lapel with one button. What advice would you have about cloth ...
Final tweed jacket from Cifonelli
I’m seriously impressed with this tweed jacket from Cifonelli. The style is nice, with a mix of traditional and original detailing. But having put that together with Lorenzo, it was what I expected. Perhaps more surprising, and certainly more i...
Final tweed jacket from Cifonelli
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Hi there, Any update perhaps on what the prices for bespoke Cifonelli garments are now in 2023? Two piece, three piece and an overcoat? Thanks Simon, Byron...
Tweed jacket from Cifonelli
As you might have sensed in a recent post on Parisian tailors Cifonelli, I was rather taken with Lorenzo’s stylistic details. That led to a commission for a Harris tweed jacket including his slash pockets, five-button front up to the throat...
Tweed jacket from Cifonelli
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It was from the Holland & Sherry Harris Tweed bunch. But it was years ago so the precise shade won't be available any more......
A jacket to ponder in
Sober and still not solemn on Sunday Esquire, January 1935: “The sobriety of black and white afternoon dress does not necessarily imply the solemnity of the mourner’s bench. Relieving touches that keep you from bending over backwa...
A jacket to ponder in
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Many thanks Lindsay...
Velvet jacket from Timothy Everest
A few years ago I came across a double-breasted brown velvet jacket in a vintage shop in London. It was far too large and, at the same time, far too short. But I loved the contrast between deep-pile brown velvet and grosgrain lapels, both in colour a...
Velvet jacket from Timothy Everest
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The key question, if I may say so, is can a velvet jacket be worn with 'ordinary' black tie trousers at a ball? what do you think? such questions keep me awake at night......
More buckskin, grey flannel jacket
Father and sons foregather for Harvard Esquire, June 1953: “There’s a shoht cheeyah for Haahvuhd in both these costumes, although in basic detail they are both right for both sides of the embattled lines that draw up in New London...
More buckskin, grey flannel jacket
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Fox will be better than most, particularly in that heavier weight with a bit of cashmere, but still if you haven't seen it made up I'd stay away from flannel to be on the safe side. It can easily look like half of a suit...
Half-lined and unlined jackets
An image-heavy post this week, to illustrate options for summer jackets. In particular, those half-lined and unlined. An unlined jacket is a nice way to create greater ventilation in hotter temperatures. The major disadvantage is that the jacket is m...
Half-lined and unlined jackets
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Yes, when people talk about unlined jackets they normally mean the sleeves are still lined and there is usually a little lining in the top of the back as well. Unlined sleeves are rather easier on cotton and linen, but s...
Reader question: Wearing odd jackets
David: I very much enjoy your blog and find it to be a great source of inspiration in my desire to master the art of permanent style. I was hoping you could help me in the matter of choosing odd jackets. I am starting a new job where most people wear...
Reader question: Wearing odd jackets
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No worries!...
Keep your jacket on
Takizawa Shigeru makes beautiful suits and jackets. But while the style details of his tailoring stood out to me in a recent communication (particularly his emphasis on a very slim edge to the top of a jacket’s waist pocket), it was the philoso...
Keep your jacket on
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I'm afraid I personally think that's both antiquated and sexist, but it's just a personal view....
Reader question: Wearing suit jackets separately
Ted: In reference to your post on building a wardrobe, if the man in question mostly gets navy and grey suits, does he need to buy sport coats? He can just use the suit jackets and mix and match. The short and simple answer, Ted, is no. He can’...
Reader question: Wearing suit jackets separately
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I guess if you don't have a suit you don't have much of a choice, but I'd certainly wear a suit if I could?...
The waistcoat as jacket
This is an addendum to The Waistcoat Theory, that personal hobbyhorse of mine that attempts to solve the problem of men taking their suit jackets off indoors, and undermining all the aesthetic advantages of a suit as a result. I won’t repeat th...
The waistcoat as jacket
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Oh good, lovely to hear that Yuta...
Two very different jackets and jeans
When a jacket-and-jeans combination works well, it is one of the most stylish outfits a man can wear, successfully bridging the casual and the formal, and merging the best elements of both. It is, however, hard to get right. As mentioned in a previou...
Two very different jackets and jeans
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Will do thank you....
The logical jacket
It always gets hotter in the afternoon in this office. I don’t know whether the air conditioning is just tired, or the whole building is warming up after a day’s sunshine, but around 3pm it starts to get a little stuffy. Today, joyously, ...
The logical jacket
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Also, if you want to know more about my tailor and the process of managing one, I suggest you search for the term 'tailor' on this blog or look at the section on the right entitled The Suit. Simon...
