How clothing kept me sane

February 1st 2021

Something that has consistently surprised me over the past year of this horrible pandemic, is the friends - especially in the menswear industry - that have lost some interest in what they wear every day. I offer no kind of opinion on that choice, a...

How clothing kept me sane

Something that has consistently surprised me over the past year of this horrible pandemic, is the friends - especially in the menswear industry - that have lost some interest in what they wear every day.  I offer no ki...

February 1st 2021

My shirt collars

January 27th 2021

  When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly as we&rsqu...

My shirt collars

    When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear.  In fact, this has come up a few times over the ye...

Shirts - January 27th 2021

John Simons – the shop, the history, the in...

January 25th 2021

In normal menswear - not even classic menswear, but everyday, everybody menswear, everything outside big fashion brands - retailers can often have more influence than designers. People like Charlie Davidson of The Andover Shop, Isabel Ettedgui of Co...

John Simons – the shop, the history, the in...

In normal menswear - not even classic menswear, but everyday, everybody menswear, everything outside big fashion brands - retailers can often have more influence than designers. People like Charlie Davidson of The Andov...

January 25th 2021

Brexit: Don’t worry, nothing has changed

January 24th 2021

We've had a few questions from readers in the past fortnight about Brexit, and they've all contained misinformation, or been plain wrong. So I thought I'd publish a simple breakdown (here and on Instagram) to explain what's going on. The most import...

Brexit: Don’t worry, nothing has changed

We've had a few questions from readers in the past fortnight about Brexit, and they've all contained misinformation, or been plain wrong. So I thought I'd publish a simple breakdown (here and on Instagram) to explain wh...

January 24th 2021

Bruce Boyer’s A&S jacket: How great th...

January 15th 2021

  When Bruce read our article on Nicoletta Caraceni’s 50-year-old jacket recently, he was spurred to send an example of his own: the Anderson & Sheppard jacket worn above. And really, there are few people better placed to talk...

Bruce Boyer’s A&S jacket: How great th...

  When Bruce read our article on Nicoletta Caraceni’s 50-year-old jacket recently, he was spurred to send an example of his own: the Anderson & Sheppard jacket worn above.  And really, there are few people be...

January 15th 2021

The Permanent Style Awards 2021: Charity, e-comme...

January 11th 2021

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from it, and which I wanted to refl...

The Permanent Style Awards 2021: Charity, e-comme...

It’s hard to use terms for this past year that haven’t already been overused, and lost most of their meaning along the way. But there are certainly several issues and trends that have naturally emerged from it, and ...

January 11th 2021

New daily email and comments page, plus 1.2 milli...

January 8th 2021

Over the past six months, we've made several improvements to the website based on requests in last year's reader survey . Some of the new pieces of functionality will not be that obvious, so I wanted to highlight them here to make sure everyone can...

New daily email and comments page, plus 1.2 milli...

Over the past six months, we've made several improvements to the website based on requests in last year's reader survey .  Some of the new pieces of functionality will not be that obvious, so I wanted to highlight them...

January 8th 2021

The Christmas Quiz!

December 25th 2020

**UPDATE: The answers to the quiz are now listed at the bottom of this post. Don't peek if you want to try it out yourself first! The winner of the competition was Mathias Olsen. Well done to him.** This is a spot of fun for Christmas Day. It should...

The Christmas Quiz!

**UPDATE: The answers to the quiz are now listed at the bottom of this post. Don't peek if you want to try it out yourself first! The winner of the competition was Mathias Olsen. Well done to him.** This is a spot of fu...

December 25th 2020

Which brands do we cover, and why?

December 14th 2020

Now more than ever, I think it’s important to say what we stand for at Permanent Style. And one of the ways that comes across clearest is our editorial policy: what we cover, and what we don’t. Implicitly, this defines our values. It re...

Which brands do we cover, and why?

Now more than ever, I think it’s important to say what we stand for at Permanent Style. And one of the ways that comes across clearest is our editorial policy: what we cover, and what we don’t.  Implicitly, this de...

December 14th 2020

The perspective of medieval menswear

December 7th 2020

I recently saw a presentation by the cultural historical and writer Benjamin Wild (below), on the history of menswear. The talk covered everything from 1300 to the present day, but it was pre-20th Century that was the most interesting. The developm...

The perspective of medieval menswear

I recently saw a presentation by the cultural historical and writer Benjamin Wild (below), on the history of menswear. The talk covered everything from 1300 to the present day, but it was pre-20th Century that was the m...

December 7th 2020

The Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat

November 27th 2020

I’ve been lucky this year that so many outerwear collaborations have come to fruition - no delays, no problems, everything fulfilling my expectations. That doesn’t always happen. This next one is no less exciting than the others, but I ...

The Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat

I’ve been lucky this year that so many outerwear collaborations have come to fruition - no delays, no problems, everything fulfilling my expectations. That doesn’t always happen.  This next one is no less exciting ...

November 27th 2020

What is comfort?

November 23rd 2020

Working from home has thrown up lots of interesting clothing debates recently - including whether people will just stop caring, as we discussed recently . Another interesting one, I think, is the idea of comfort. As in, ‘It’s just so co...

What is comfort?

Working from home has thrown up lots of interesting clothing debates recently - including whether people will just stop caring, as we discussed recently .  Another interesting one, I think, is the idea of comfort. As i...

November 23rd 2020

The mock neck

November 20th 2020

I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous...

The mock neck

I’m not sure about the mock neck.  It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear b...

Knitwear - November 20th 2020

Buying vintage – with Oliver and Carl of Ru...

November 11th 2020

While in Stockholm last month, I spent a morning shopping with Oliver (Dannefalk, above) and Carl (Pers) of Rubato. I was particularly interested to hear their views on vintage shopping, as I knew that both of them used to work in vintage stores in ...

Buying vintage – with Oliver and Carl of Ru...

While in Stockholm last month, I spent a morning shopping with Oliver (Dannefalk, above) and Carl (Pers) of Rubato. I was particularly interested to hear their views on vintage shopping, as I knew that both of them used...

November 11th 2020

The symbolic value of clothes: An interview with ...

November 2nd 2020

Philip Warkander is a Swedish academic, lecturer at Lund University in fashion studies. We got to talking recently thanks to an introduction by Dag at Saman Amel, and it was interesting how many of the topics Philip covers - from the value placed o...

The symbolic value of clothes: An interview with ...

Philip Warkander is a Swedish academic, lecturer at Lund University in fashion studies.  We got to talking recently thanks to an introduction by Dag at Saman Amel, and it was interesting how many of the topics Philip c...

November 2nd 2020

Fashion is running out of ideas, faster and faster

October 16th 2020

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a men’s fashion magazine in the new (very nice) newsagent on Chiltern Street. I really miss good print products, and fashion magazines in particular. I think I flicked through it all in five minutes, and felt ...

Fashion is running out of ideas, faster and faster

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a men’s fashion magazine in the new (very nice) newsagent on Chiltern Street. I really miss good print products, and fashion magazines in particular. I think I flicked through it all ...

October 16th 2020

Postcard from Stockholm

October 9th 2020

So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal. No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do sanitise their hands frequently, an...

Postcard from Stockholm

So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal.  No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do sanitise...

October 9th 2020

My beard

September 30th 2020

It’s probably surprising how little time and attention I’ve put into my beard over the years. I’ve had it almost 20 years, long before it was fashionable (which I do tell people, to my shame). Yet I’ve always cut it myself, ...

My beard

It’s probably surprising how little time and attention I’ve put into my beard over the years.  I’ve had it almost 20 years, long before it was fashionable (which I do tell people, to my shame). Yet I’ve always ...

September 30th 2020

Postcard from Milan

September 25th 2020

When I was young, my family used to play a game on holiday. The question for all of us was: what can you see that tells you you’re in a different country? It could be the types of trees, the style of road signs, the way people gesticulate. It ...

Postcard from Milan

When I was young, my family used to play a game on holiday. The question for all of us was: what can you see that tells you you’re in a different country? It could be the types of trees, the style of road signs, the w...

September 25th 2020

How Permanent Style works as a business

September 2nd 2020

Fashion media has had a hard time of it in recent years, with near constant disruption - which Covid-19 has only made worse. So why am I confident that Permanent Style can survive this turmoil? What revenue streams support that, and what investment...

How Permanent Style works as a business

Fashion media has had a hard time of it in recent years, with near constant disruption - which Covid-19 has only made worse.  So why am I confident that Permanent Style can survive this turmoil? What revenue streams su...

September 2nd 2020

How to launch a menswear brand

August 26th 2020

Despite the uncertainty in the world right now - and the economy in particular - it has never been easier to launch a brand. Indeed, I suspect that in the next couple of years most of the new, interesting designs will come from small start-ups, rath...

How to launch a menswear brand

Despite the uncertainty in the world right now - and the economy in particular - it has never been easier to launch a brand. Indeed, I suspect that in the next couple of years most of the new, interesting designs will c...

August 26th 2020

We will not all be wearing T-shirts and sweatpants

August 12th 2020

Apparently there is a thing called a Zoom shirt. It sits on the back of your chair at home, and just before you start a meeting with your boss or colleague, you put on the shirt to look professional. You know, over a T-shirt and sweatpants*. There ...

We will not all be wearing T-shirts and sweatpants

Apparently there is a thing called a Zoom shirt.  It sits on the back of your chair at home, and just before you start a meeting with your boss or colleague, you put on the shirt to look professional. You know, over a ...

August 12th 2020

Local UK tailors: Controlled crowdsourcing

July 10th 2020

Readers have commented fairly regularly that it would be good to include more local UK tailors on Permanent Style. I’ve generally been resistant, largely because those tailors would be relevant to only a small number of people. As they tend n...

Local UK tailors: Controlled crowdsourcing

Readers have commented fairly regularly that it would be good to include more local UK tailors on Permanent Style.  I’ve generally been resistant, largely because those tailors would be relevant to only a small numbe...

July 10th 2020

Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing

June 22nd 2020

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just to...

Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality.  I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwi...

June 22nd 2020

A complete capsule wardrobe

June 17th 2020

  This article was spurred by two things. First, by a reader specifically asking for it, on another capsule post in this series (always a good sign). And second, by some consultancy work I’ve been doing, where the client had assembled ...

A complete capsule wardrobe

  This article was spurred by two things. First, by a reader specifically asking for it, on another capsule post in this series (always a good sign). And second, by some consultancy work I’ve been doing, where the...

June 17th 2020