There are two important points to note about these commentators, though. The first concedes that he wears his Berluti shoes relatively rarely, as shoes for a special occasion and generally for evening wear. They are therefore not on a heavy rotation and rarely receive a full day’s use. He admits they are a little delicate, as many fine things are, and should be treated as such.
This suggests to me that while Berluti makes a fine pair of shoes, they should not be the second or third pair you buy. Get the basics first, your essential black oxfords and chocolate derbys – the shoes you will wear to work, the shoes you will wear more than once a week.
Then consider Berluti as something special. For you this may mean they are your fifth pair of high-end shoes. For these commentators I rather suspect they are their ninth or twelfth.
The second point is that the more critical Berluti customer still owns a pair, and without regret. Despite his reservations about the quality of the construction, he is happy he bought a pair and would do so again. This is true of almost all detractors of Berluti that I have seen: they still love the pair they own.
This reinforces the impression of Berluti as an exception, a treat. No matter how many great pairs of solidly-built English shoes you own, a little bit of moon-painted frippery will get you eventually (Berluti famously claims that the patinas on some of its shoes are painted by the light of the moon, enhancing their effect. Rubbish, of course, but it all adds to their frankly very successful PR mythology.)
The second point also shows that there is more than one way to judge a pair of shoes. Edward Green and John Lobb are generally considered to be among the best-constructed shoes available. But some of the designs leave me a little cold. I own a pair of Oundle monk-fronts on the 888 last from Edward Green – a long look with a chiselled toe. But the more conservative lasts, such as 202, just seem stumpy to my eye. The same comment has been made about some Vass shoes – they are wonderfully made but you’d never want to put them on your feet.
At some point, you pay for design. With Berluti, this is a large portion of what you pay for. Some of the designs are just horrible (Rapieces-Reprises) and some are gorgeous (Piercing). But Olga is famed for pushing the envelope on design, with new shapes, engraving, personalised tattoos and chunky rubber soles. Many of her innovations, like the brogueing on wholecuts, have now been copied by several other designers.
In conclusion, buy Berluti as an extravagance and buy it for its design. They’re well-made (I don’t believe the rumours about basic construction being done in China today) but they won’t hold up too well after several trips to the pub, or after a few English winters of cold slushy rain.
I’m more a fan of Pierre Corthay these days. But more of that in the next posting.
I started alternating a pair of Berluti’s and a pair of Bontoni’s every other day.
The Berluti’s look better than the first day I bought them and the Bontoni’s have fallen apart.
I still covet a pair of Jermyn II’s by Lobb. that said the Piercing is some kind of beautiful.
love what u said about buying luxury but making sure that it was beautiful. at first glance no one can tell if your shoes are berluti’s or not ,so they’ve gotta be cool!
Permanent Style – you should take a look at the Bontoni and Kiton collections. They are simply sublime!
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I looked at Berlutis when I visited Barneys in SF a few weeks ago. They didn’t do much for me as the shoes look better on the web! I must say the designs make them more desirable than an overpriced, bland pair of Lobb or Green.
Comment by Alan — July 15, 2008 #
I bought my 1st pair of Berluti wholecuts (black, 3 laces) in London in 2000 and wore them regularly with no real rotation until they developed a split under my right toes in 2012 when in LA so I left them there. Admittedly living in Australia they did not see much rain but they looked good to the very end with people commenting on them despite their “wrinkled” and well-worn look. Liked them so much I bought another pair exactly the same but tan in colour when in Singapore in 2014. A bit expensive but fitted my feet well despite my high arch. Hear what you say about the Goodyear construction but they look a bit boxy. My Lobb (“William” double monk shoes) are stout and I wore them in mud and slush in Salt Lake City and look like they will with re-soling, go on forever, but I feel “square” and “frumpy” wearing them compared to Berluti and other Italian shoes (Artioli, Bontoni, Gucci) I have. Same comment re: Lobb, applies to my Grenson brogues which are over 20 years old – stout but “square’.
Thanks. Worth looking at someone like Gaziano & Girling, which are Goodyear welted but have all the elongated style you could ever want
Hi Simon, not sure if you even read comment in so old post. Anyway!
It’s very interesting to read your two posts about Berluti you wrote in 2008. Today, in late 2019, I see on Berluti’s website that they have their shoes not only in Blake construction but in Goodyear and Norwegian (Storm welt) as well! And for some, who say Venezia leather is not durable, probably may go with Alligator leather, that supposed to be more durable.
Personally, I have a dream and a goal to buy Berluti’s briefcase and will ask to make the briefcase in burgundy colour and for doing it all, I’m going to visit London! 🙂
Yes, I get alerts about all comments, so dont worry.
Berluti do have a small amount of Goodyear yes, but not much. Most of the Goodyear they do is the bespoke side.
Personally I don’t think any of it is great value for money, but if you have that dream then I’m sure it doesn’t matter much…