Stefano Bemer fitting

While at Stefano Bemer I had a fitting on what is easily my longest-running order for a pair of shoes. The process started back in January 2012. A combination of company upheaval and very infrequent travel to Florence has meant that only now, two years later, am I seeing them in the flesh. 

They are beautiful shoes. Made in the simple shape and style that Bemer was renowned for, with a gently elongated toe, the mid-brown will have a thin welt and some burnishing and polish to vary the colour. The latter two points are not the normal style for Bemer, but I wanted a finish that was a little closer to Northampton.


Stefano Bemer  bespoke shoe

Stefano Bemer  bespoke fitting


Most importantly for bespoke, the fit was excellent. There is a peculiarly pleasurable feeling of feeling your instep hugged all the way around the foot that you only get with good bespoke. It is similar in many ways to the sensation of having a collar fit all round the neck on a first bespoke suit. I still remember that feeling. 

On my last below, you can see where Masako has marked out some small changes. A little needs to be added to the top of the instep, as it is lacing up completely at the moment. And a little is needed on the outside of both feet, around my little toe. Both of these will be achieved with the addition of a small layer of leather on the last. The shoes will then be relasted over the top. 

As ever, click on the images to enlarge. Note the beautiful Bemer wooden shoe boxes in the background. Each pair of shoes comes in such a box, with a shoe shape in the same leather stuck to the outside. 


Stefano Bemer  fitting bespoke shoe

Stefano Bemer

Photos: Luke Carby

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Such a thin sole it looks hardly present, as if the shoes will wear through in a matter of weeks! nonetheless attractive shoes.


SIlly me


Also Simon I was wondering what I should do if I can afford more than £800 Graham Browne but cant quite go to the £3000 top Savile Row tailors?
There must be an immediate alternative available in London for between those price points?


They look beautiful. As with your tailoring, do you now only buy bespoke footwear ?


Makes sense to me. I’m slowly working my way up the quality shoe ladder. I’ve just decided on my first pair of Crockett and Jones. They will be be heaven compared to what I’m used to.

John K

Not sure if either bespoke suits or shoes can be justified economically. They are both occasional indulgences, for me at least. I must say that I get just as much pleasure from my bespoke shoes (Jason Amesbury) as from my bespoke suits (Timothy Everest, John Pearse). It is the small things that I appreciate as much as the fit – a lovely beveled waist on the sole, the quality of the leather used and, of course, that personal pleasure from knowing that you are wearing something unique and special – even if nobody else notices.


Do you know how the sizing of Stefano Bemer RTW compares to EG sizing? Thanks


Wouldn’t the lacing close even more if they added on the instep?


I thought so. I was wondering how that would work since the pattern will be even bigger if something was added onto the instep.

Also, I would just like to ask, what to do you think about bespoke shoes being made for people who have very very wide feet? For example, a person roughly around size 46, with a ball girth around 30+cm. Have you ever seen one?