Sartoria Melina – first London trunkshow, and talk

Tuesday, April 24th 2018
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After a long wait, Neapolitan bespoke leather experts Sartoria Melina are finally coming to London - on May 16th and 17th. 

They will be at Mark's Club, and as with Sartoria Ciardi last month, we will hold a small event for them on the Wednesday night.

Anyone that comes along will be able to meet Jolanda and Carmela, see examples of their work, and then listen as we conduct a short interview. 

Last time a few readers said they would have liked to send in questions for the interviewees to answer. So if you have any such questions for Melina, do please add them to the comments of this post and I will be sure to ask them. 

Melina's work is so unusual, with nothing comparable in London, that I'm sure they will be popular. Please do email me to get a place for the talk on the Wednesday night ([email protected]) and Jolanda for an appointment on the Thursday ([email protected]).

I've been wearing my brown nubuck Melina jacket regularly since the weather warmed up, and it's the perfect piece for me in many ways: luxurious yet subtle (given the texture of the nubuck) and a beautiful piece of craft. 

Look forward to seeing everyone there. 

Simon

Read all about Sartoria Melina and their workshop here. Read my review of a finished jacket here

Photography: Workshop, Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man; Finished jacket, James Munro 

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Anonymous

Simon
Apologies but the leather as jacket look is really not a good one. I know you have tried to make it as soft as possible etc, but it really looks a bit dodgy. I think fundamentally this is the antithesis of permanent style.
Due to the nature of the material leather is hard wearing, durable and (can be) rugged. Because of this we use it for outwear, shoes, and trimmings that come under strain / frequent use (handles, wallets etc)
A blazer, by contrast, is soft, less frequently worn, takes less abuse and is supposed to be more refined.
The contradiction of the two is a bit forced and takes the “if you know the rules you can break them” way too far. A pursuit of the unique / fashionable over pragmatism, style and sensibility.

Sorry for the harshness but it does sometimes feel like you are extremely wrapped up in the bubble of ultra high end wear that you lose perspective once in a blue moon!

As ever, all the best

Anonymous

Thanks for replying. I agree with you on most things, though !
And thanks for taking the criticism openly, hopefully I framed my points enough so that it doesn’t feel like pure trolling / attack (which even on a relatively civilised site like this seems to occur!)

Anonymous

Looking at the last picture, it again points to your coats being on the short side with the buttoning point somewhat too high.

For me, leather or suede are fine for bomber type jackets, but not as an odd coat I’m afraid. I agree with the honest comment of your poster above.

Brian Fantana

Hi Simon,

I appreciate that photographs are not a good indicator of fit, however is it fair to say that the sleeve length of this jacket is a little shorter than ideal? Is this due to creasing of the leather at the elbows causing “shrinkage”, as with your D’Avino denim shirt?

Thanks,

Brian

John

The blazer is groundbreaking and nostalgic at the same time and will be (if cared for properly) of a most permanent style. Steve McQueen would definitely give it a go. The rigid naysayers be damned.

Hristo

I like the idea and the look of the leather jacket cut as a normal blazer. If you would combine the cut of the Cifonelli suede jacket with the colour of the Melina jacket you get an absolute killer.
Yes, it is unusual. Yes, not everybody would like it. Some will hate it and some will love it. And this is a legitimate mindset.
Some people like being invisible in the crowd and to be understated.
Others like to provoke.

P.S. I intend to go to the philharmonics on Sunday with a patched pockets, spalla camicia, notched, mid-blue, single breasted jacket and a midnight blue bow tie.
I really don’t care that this is not a proper black tie outfit. If I had a double breasted leather jacket, I could have put it to use with equal carelessness.

Omar Asif

Given the size of your watwardrobe, I am always bemused when you write about a piece of clothing or even a shoe getting ‘regular or frequent’ wear – curious to know what this frequent wear means for you?

Mac

Hi Simon
I can see the point both people are making and I’m not usually one for leather jackets but this particular piece is striking and looks really superb with the casual denim shirt.
How is the jacket wearing, is it stretching so that the fit is affected?

graham

The artisan is very talented, thanks for bringing her to our attention!

Chancellor

Hi Simon,

A little bit of a tangent: what are your thoughts on using nubuck for shoes? I don’t believe I’ve seen you discuss nubuck shoes before.

Fred

Dear Simon,
Best of luck with the Trunk Show and Talk.
Whilst respecting ‘Anonymous’ frankness, I cannot say I agree.
Using leather in a sports jacket has a history, albeit distant, I am thinking eighteenth century frock coats.
More than that it is an attractive idea to be able to wear leather without having to go for a biker or pilot look.
And the result looks good (although with a different colour trouser might look even better).
A bit of innovation is need to keep things fresh and moving along.
Please keep leading the way for us all.

JJ Katz

For the ‘man who has everything’ or at least a very versatile wardrobe, why not?
A nice mix of ultra-casual material and sartorial cut.

I am curious about one thing: would it not wear awfully hot, even relatively to wool?

Al

Hi Simon
I bet it all depends from the cultural background too. Here in Italy (where I live) we have a long time deal with leather jackets and the market is packed with RTW ones. They are often Spring’s jackets, made in very light, soft leather (“camoscio” or “nappa”) and able to wrap the body like a fine wool suit. I myself have a black, nappa one I wear in casual events.

G.

It has always been my understanding that sartorially speaking that leather-sourced blazers are taboo. But in this case rules meant to be broken. Very nice look.