The best things from the pop-up: Bryceland’s, Colhay’s, and on to Scott and Masaru 

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This was so lovely. The opportunity to see readers in person for the first time in two years, and such great products to show them. 

Before the party kicked off, I made sure to try on all of the Bryceland’s products I hadn’t seen or tried  before. 

My favourite by far was the lounge jacket. Styled as a tuxedo, with grosgrain lapels and piping, it has a wonderfully broad lapel, with a low belly. The material is a black Fox wool, but it’s made to order generally so you can pick a range of materials (cream and grey shown on the Bryceland’s website). 

Most importantly, it looks very elegant yet feels like a dressing gown. And the trousers have a tie waist, but then you’ll never take your jacket off with black tie, so it won’t be seen anyway. Definitely worth a try on if you come to the shop in the next 10 days. 

The down jacket and down vest I’ve been looking forward to trying for a while. The latter is cut pretty short and large, even for a gilet, but is designed to sit over the top of even outerwear like a blouson or denim jacket. 

The down jacket works better for the proportions I normally wear, and is in a nice matte-black. Made to be as practical as possible, the shell is a nylon/cotton mix and the fill the most efficient mix in terms of warmth and value - 90% down, 10% feather. 

The other things I hadn’t tried were the frogged-button shirt and the farmer’s smock. The latter might be a little too much style-wise for me, but the collar is a nice height - often a band-collar like this can be too skimpy, and not great on anyone that finds a normal shirt collar flattering. 

Most of Ronnie’s stuff at Colhay’s has been covered already, most recently in our Autumn/Winter Top 10, but it’s worth coming in just to try the shawl coat - basically a shawl-collar cardigan but the length of a dressing gown. 

The weight is often the issue with long knits like this, but the lambswool Ronnie uses is pretty light, and it’s quite open, so overall weight isn’t an issue. 

And try on the cashmere shirt cardigan. I’m still not sure about it how I’ll wear mine, but it’s certainly not as light and flimsy as some cardigans like this that are designed to be worn as shirts too, so it has that on its side. 

Tony’s brand, AWMS, is on the small table in the middle, and he has his new collaboration with Crown shoes - leopard-print Belgians - plus the berets and new ‘alumni’ scarf

There’s also a cracking cricket sweater - only for teasing purposes only, as it’s not available yet - and some cheeky slippers made in various vintage cloths. 

From Wednesday of course, shoemaker Masaru Okuyama will be coming to the shop, which feels significant to me, as one of the first Japanese makers to be here in London. 

And from Thursday, Scott Fraser Collection will be replacing Colhay’s. 

A lot of what SFC does starts with the trouser as a foundation - be that with coloured panel knit shirts, or a drapey cuban collar shirt. So they will be bringing their two most popular cuts - the classic wide leg (straight cut, wide and high waist) and the Empire waist trouser (Hollywood waist with a wide leg that tapers to the ankle).

These will be available in a size breakdown, and a selection of about 25 fabrics to order from. Then there will be a size run of the Cuban-collar shirts, a selection of accessories (hand-made in London belts, pocket chains and vests) some current collection pieces for MTO, and stock of the popular Ripley knit - Scott has ordered some specifically for the weekend. 

Finally, Scott will be bringing a hand-picked set of vintage Italian knit shirts from the 1950-70s. He has been collecting these shirts for the last 15 years and plans to bring out some of the highest-grade for these few special days on the Row. 

One more unique reason to come along. 

Permanent Style Presents is at The Service, 32 Savile Row, from today until November 7th. 

Full details on the dates and opening times here

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JB

Interesting that your description of the Colhays shawl coat feels straight up opposite of their description as a very heavy weight knit.
Regardless, it’s a design I’m eager to try, but it will have to be at home as I won’t be able to visit.
I’m sure the pop up will be a great success as always.

Austin Pollak

Hi Simon,
Lovely event last night, and so nice to be able to see new and familiar faces in person for the first time in a long time. I’m looking forward to visiting the pop-up again and meeting the new round of makers showcasing their products.

Teo

It was a wonderful event, Simon, I really enjoyed speaking to you and the rest of the guests. Thank you very much for organising, I’ll definitely try to pop down and have a better look at the products these days. In the meantime, I’m eagerly awaiting my PS Friday Polo in the post.

Walt

Loving the Indiana Jones Cosplay in the photo second from bottom!

Martins

Was nice to say hi to you Simon!

Donegal actually feels lighter than I expected and absolutely lovely cloth! Unfortunately just got Vax walker so have to wait until next year and hope it’s something similar to v1 or V3.
Tweed jacket is really lovely! Definitely hoping you’ll make some runs next year too!
Tote is much more substantial than I thought! if I can break habit of carrying stuff on my shoulder and you still make it, Ill really consider it! In brown.
Chambray is amazing!

hardest thing will be choosing 1-2 things a year to buy!

For the foreseeable future I think my wallet will really hate you!

On the other hand… Cap was really way too high for me! So whenever you think you have a hard time to find a hat, imagine my struggle! And I forgot to ask you about scarf to see if it’s really too short for me.

Gabriele

Good to know that the scarf has sold well! Any plans for a restock?

Martins

Re comment.
I’m actually surprised you post them on your usual schedule while shop is open! Impressive!
But I wasn’t talking about this one. I know about moderation. I was talking about one a while ago when I saw conversation about very long preorder. I proposed 2 stage gmto for Donegal. Same idea as I mentioned today, stage one, pay for cloth for next winter (you’d need to make a nice article about it), and stage 2, when cloth is ready, people either receive cloth, either pay the rest and receive the coat once it’s ready.

I’m pretty sure you missed it, because you posted some my comments after it.

But hey, no worries, as long as you don’t consider it a bad idea, it’s ok!

Re scarf. Sigh. I’ll have to come one more time! 🙂

P.s. Those colhays knits are CHUNKY!

James

Simon, how does the Crown Belgian compare to the Sagan?

James

From the photos I’d say Crown’s make seems just slightly less polished/precise than B&L’s. Would you say that is a fair assessment?
I do appreciate the detail of the cutout rubber insert, and they are not charging £35 just to apply it, but, say, the back of the shoe just isn’t there when compared to B&L. I do have an untrained eye, so it might just be off aesthetically and otherwise just as good functionally and structurally as the Sagan.
Have you had the chance to use them yourself? I’d be interested in knowing if there’s any discernible difference in comfort (beyond the rounder toe shape bit).
Thank you, by the way!

Gary

Best laid plans and all that; having tried and failed to get to UK and call in to visit the pop-up I can only wish you good luck. I, for my sins, land at Manchester 3 days too late to visit.

Giorgos

Simon i wish you all the best for the pop up, you deserve it after so much work. I have two questions:
1. can you wear the Colhays shawl coat till 5 Celcius or you need an overcoat on top of it ?
2. which trouser type and which color would you choose from Scott ?

Giorgos

Which color would you choose from the two for the shawl colar ? The blue looks better on fotos but i ilways found brown more versatile for coats. I live in germany so i cant see them in person.

Kenneth

Good Saturday to you…much greetings from new york….good luck!!! I am confident that it will a big success…peace

Matt

Hi Simon, nice to meet you today. And thank you for your help finding where my cardigan ended up!
Although after taking to home for a while I can’t help but feel the fit is a bit too tight. I might be back tomorrow to exchange it for something larger.

Rob

Well my Bryceland’s Westerner shirt arrived last week and I have been wearing it non-stop since. I just wanted to say how exceptionally pleasant, nice and patient all three of the Bryceland’s team were.
I also enjoyed my chat with Ronnie (Colhays) and his colleague.