The growth of men’s bags – FT article
The growth of men’s bags as a sector is quite incredible. Menswear as a whole has outstripped women’s clothing for a few years now, as we’ve accepted the idea of buying better clothes and wearing them better. But while it grew 15% w...
The growth of men’s bags – FT article
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I think you clearly need a bag Ronnie, yes. If you want it quite casual, go for a tote bag. A leather one for work/town, and you can always get a nice canvas one if you want something more casual. Perhaps a backpack for ...
Buying a modern man bag
Dear Simon, I have been wearing a messenger bag for some time for commuting as it’s a very handy way of containing all the bulk and occasional papers that I have to cart around with me. However, I have worried for some time about the potent...
Buying a modern man bag
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A bit late to the party, sorry you felt our bag doesn't look like the highest quality. If I may make a distinction between "luxury" and "high quality" - luxury being features that will go beyond high quality, where high ...
Monocle Summer Fayre and Trunk Labs
At the Monocle Summer Fayre this weekend. Monocle’s quirky and intelligent selection of partners and products was on display, as well as some rather fetching goats. It was also the opening day of Trunk Labs: a new branch of Trunk Clothiers a fe...
Monocle Summer Fayre and Trunk Labs
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Hi Tom, I asked friends who are big trainer geeks and they recommended them for the best raw materials and classic styling. I've had them for two years and they've only got better with age so far. Simon...
How to buy a leather bag on a budget
Hi Simon, I’ve been following Permanent Style for a while now, as well as investing significantly more of my time trying to learn more about menswear. As my style has evolved and I find myself wearing a blazer or sportcoat more often, I&...
How to buy a leather bag on a budget
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Thank you. That is a nice design from Dunhill. I don't know whether it's all hand sewn though it may well be. Two things I think worth noting: - This looks like a heavier leather, like bridle, which is what English maker...
Crafted: Makers of the exceptional
Sophie Coryndon’s toolbox for her decorative lacquer pieces These are good times for craft. Hermès is bringing its festival of artisans to London next month; Vacheron Constantin is touring Europe with a series of craft days; and this...
Crafted: Makers of the exceptional
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No, never did. Thanks for the reminder though, I'll get in touch again...
How to buy a quality leather bag
Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories. A good one will last a lifetime and, if treated well, will look better at the end than the beginning of your life together. Only leather has this attribute, gaining an individual patina from t...
How to buy a quality leather bag
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I need help here! I’m looking for a very specific type of tan leather military wet pack. It is also known as a roll pack and has a strap and buckle. There are various compartments inside. Usually coloured green. The be...
Hype luggage: Review
Hype iPad cover, £150 There is a surprising lack of good, mid-market leather products and bags out there. By mid-market I mean those stitched by machine rather than by hand (which adds considerably to the price) but otherwise using the highest ...
Hype luggage: Review
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I don't have one myself, so I'm not sure of its thickness, but there isn't much room to play with inside with the sheep's wool I'm afraid...
Michael Drake on style: English worn by the French
I always used to describe my style as how the Italians wear English clothes. Talking to Michael Drake recently though, (whose taste and sense of colour I respect immensely) I think the French might be a better reference point. The Italians are more o...
Michael Drake on style: English worn by the French
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Thanks Evan, nice observation on female dress, particularly among the French I don't ride I'm afraid, so unlikely to do something on that...
How to wear a silk scarf
As the days begin to grow colder, one of the most tactile pleasures is wearing a short scarf at the neck. I’ve never taken to wearing an ascot in an open shirt collar, much as I agree with the rationale of retaining some silk at the neck; perha...
How to wear a silk scarf
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It can look great, with the only risk being looking a little fancy or fussy. If done in a relaxed manner, and with other clothes that aren't too fussy etc, I think it can be great...
PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan
You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it’s alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN magazine, which I am told by...
PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan
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Thanks, I certainly will. It will hopefully also be the topic of my third book, which I'm talking to publishers abou at the moment...
Hermes: The bags
It’s not surprising that, given the focus on Hermès over the past week, I’ve had questions about what man’s bags they have and where they can be obtained. Hermès bags are often made in small quantities because of the d...
Hermes: The bags
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I guess it depends on your office, if that's where you'll use it most. What do other people use, and so how much would taupe stick out? By the way, I was about to look at selling mine, just because I use it so little, if...
Hermes: Interiew, Claire Marie
Claire Marie is the artisan in the Bond Street branch of Hermès. It is her job to make alterations and repairs to client’s belts, bags and other leather accessories. As reported in a previous post in this series, she is also a proficient...
Hermes: Interiew, Claire Marie
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I trained at Cordwainers Technical College in London and was awarded membership of the Society of Designers-Craftsmen. I never heard of this, but I did go to the Hermes expo in 2012. I would love to do the Hermes course....
Hermes: Trying the saddle stitch
As mentioned in the first part of this Hermès series, artisan Claire Marie was kind enough to allow me to try stitching part of the clochette that she was making. As with previous attempts at being hands-on, it of course all went wrong. It&rsq...
Hermes: Trying the saddle stitch
As mentioned in the first part of this Hermès series, artisan Claire Marie was kind enough to allow me to try stitching part of the clochette that she was making. As with previous attempts at being hands-on, it of cours...
Hermes: how leather goods are made
This week is Hermès week. There will be a series of pieces, based around the ‘expat artisan’ that sits in the Bond Street store, making repairs, embossing products and generally giving advice. Her name is Claire, and over the yea...
Hermes: how leather goods are made
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I would like to know what's the real name of flat-headed iron? or do you know where can i get one? Thank you for this article it is great!!...
Be patient with wardrobe building
Last week a friend commented on my blue silk Hermès tie. It is a navy three-fold decorated with a faint pattern of little Hs: very practical, very versatile, a perennial favourite. Having had it for a few years, I was surprised that it drew co...
Be patient with wardrobe building
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Nice idea Martins, yes....
The reputation of Smith & Co
Following on from my note last week on the history of W Bill, here’s some information gleaned on the history of Smith Woollens. For many, including my tailor, Smith’s is a brand they swear by. Worsteds that are often a little bit pricier ...
The reputation of Smith & Co
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I have a cream lambswool twinset size 42" bearing the label in both pieces 'W BILL, Old Bond Street - pure cashmere', in perfect condition. I would be interested to know if it was produced before W Gibb was taken over an...
My Hermes scarves
I love my Hermes scarves. But in order for silk scarves to work as (slightly more) masculine accessories I think they need to be both dark and low on contrast. Classic polka dots or stripes are different – they can get away with higher contrast...
My Hermes scarves
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I think that's high contrast, but also just quite bold being gold itself. It's not something I would wear...
That delayed Anderson & Sheppard
[Top photo added since this post was originally written, as the bottom one distorts the shape of the suit rather] As requested, here is my Anderson & Sheppard suit. A 13-ounce, grey Prince of Wales cloth with pale blue overcheck, made up int...
That delayed Anderson & Sheppard
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My apologies, I was looking at the wrong post. Yes I do wear this separately sometimes. It's not perfect - there should be a little more texture really - but it just about works. See here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/...
Spotting quality in a tie (at Drake’s)
It’s not easy to spot a high-quality tie. Most of the signs that people tell you to look for, such as the loop being sewn in between the folds rather than tacked across, have no real practical benefit. They are just signs that a little more eff...
Spotting quality in a tie (at Drake’s)
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I've always wondered about this cutting on the bias. I know how to detect it, but visually it's very hard to spot. For instance I have a Drake's tie that has lines straight down. Was that woven taking the cutting on the ...
Longevity, not profit, at Hermes
Ties are not easy to clean. Those made of silk, at least, are very delicate things. They are carefully folded lengths of volatile material that are sewn together with loose, sparse stitches – to allow room for the silk to flow, to stretch and t...
Longevity, not profit, at Hermes
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Hermes tie prices are now stratospheric. Pre-Covid prices hovered around $170. My wife has yearly gifted me one for Father's day. This year $240. Despite the "buttery" silk and "Made in France" mystique this price point ...
