The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

March 10th 2021

  This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider – also encompassing some semi-be...

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

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Bespoke: - Yohei Fukuda - Seiji McCarthy - Nicholas Templeman RTW/MTO: - Edward Green - Alden - Crockett & Jones...

ShoesMarch 10th 2021

High/low dressing

December 6th 2017

The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the other hand, is v...

High/low dressing

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I wouldn't say it was high/low - that usually refers to a greater level of contrast in formality or style. But jeans and a jacket can be something that looks less fussy, yes...

Hanks and scarves - HatsDecember 6th 2017

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, ...

December 1st 2017

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include some Permanent Style favourites...

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, ...

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Perhaps a mid or pale brown? Also stronger colours like oranges and reds, if that's your style...

Casual clothing - Hanks and scarvesDecember 1st 2017

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

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Thank you, and yes you're right. Today I would have had a loafer or two in there, more dark-brown suede, and I would have had a more subtle boot than that chelsea. Overall though, I would also keep bespoke mostly for mor...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

Norman Vilalta at Leffot in New York

March 5th 2015

With his customary humour, Norman Vilalta has created a (very) little video to announce his trunk show at Leffot in New York today and tomorrow. Go say hello if you can.

Norman Vilalta at Leffot in New York

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Simon, very interested in the Barbour SL Bedale but it seems to be out of stock, or in size XL only, across the few sites I looked at. Any tips on acquiring?...

ShoesMarch 5th 2015

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

January 17th 2015

Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy  

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

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1. Partly, I'm fairly well into my career and earn decent money now - I couldn't have afforded anywhere near as much 10 years ago. And partly, prioritisation. I know people (particularly women) who buy even more clothing...

January 17th 2015

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

November 17th 2014

Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of personality. Earlier this year we h...

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

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No, unfortunately we had to give up on that project. We tried a fitting but the style wasn't working....

ShoesNovember 17th 2014

Bespoke is the future

July 11th 2014

During a sunny, late lunch in Madrid last month, Norman Vilalta and I spent some time talking about his experiments with new materials, and ideas on working with high-technology companies like Nike. It occurred to me that one of the reasons I enjoy...

Bespoke is the future

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I completely agree. The only other thing to say is that almost anything can be a luxury. It's just a question of choice. A night of drinking in London at £5 a pint is also a luxury......

July 11th 2014

Five tips on bespoke shoes

July 7th 2014

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I know it’s the same as the f...

Five tips on bespoke shoes

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Absolutely Lindsay, there's lots of coverage around the site. Perhaps start with the post 'The bespoke shoemakers I have known' https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/10/the-shoemakers-i-have-known.html...

ShoesJuly 7th 2014

Norman Vilalta, Luca and El Aristocrata

October 10th 2012

As mentioned on Monday, last week I was in Madrid to speak at a meeting of the El Aristocrata gentleman’s club. Speakers below, left to right: tailor Jose Maria Reillo, shoemaker Norman Vilalta, me, Jose Maria ( El Aristocrata) and Luca Rub...

Norman Vilalta, Luca and El Aristocrata

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Bespoke is about the same level in London for value - from G&G, Cleverley etc. Saint Crispin's is a great option, for a modified last but not full bespoke. Have a look at what I've written about them. But they're not in ...

Shoes - StyleOctober 10th 2012

Stefano Bemer, farewell

July 29th 2012

Stefano Bemer, a great man and shoemaker, died yesterday. I had the privilege of knowing and working with Stefano earlier this year. He was, as is probably obvious from the tributes that have followed his death, a wonderfully warm and welcoming man. ...

Stefano Bemer, farewell

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A Salute to this Great Artisan;May he rest in peace......

ShoesJuly 29th 2012

What I did this summer

June 25th 2012

Not much of an excuse to post this, except to celebrate being on holiday. The nearest I can get is the Rapha gear, which is performing very well. There is some geeky satisfaction in demonstrating that wool (mix, jersey) and leather (shoes) perform be...

What I did this summer

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Cheers Tim. I think those jerseys are more style than craft, but some are definitely lovely things. And where are you living that moths are so all pervading? What do you do with your knitwear?...

June 25th 2012