The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known
This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider – also encompassing some semi-be...
The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known
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No worries, always happy to help, just keep on asking questions...
High/low dressing
The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the other hand, is v...
High/low dressing
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I'd say core is largely in this case about the pieces closer to the body. The tees, knits, trousers, with the experimentation easier with outerwear, shoes, headgear...
Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, ...
First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include some Permanent Style favourites...
Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, ...
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Perhaps a mid or pale brown? Also stronger colours like oranges and reds, if that's your style...
Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes
As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...
Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes
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Sam - Trickers are particularly known for brogue shoes and boots. They are excellent at those and they will last forever. In my view they do other styles less well. That heavy, country style brogue is slightly out of fas...
Norman Vilalta at Leffot in New York
With his customary humour, Norman Vilalta has created a (very) little video to announce his trunk show at Leffot in New York today and tomorrow. Go say hello if you can.
Norman Vilalta at Leffot in New York
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Simon, very interested in the Barbour SL Bedale but it seems to be out of stock, or in size XL only, across the few sites I looked at. Any tips on acquiring?...
Bespoke shoes event: the speakers
Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy
Bespoke shoes event: the speakers
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1. Partly, I'm fairly well into my career and earn decent money now - I couldn't have afforded anywhere near as much 10 years ago. And partly, prioritisation. I know people (particularly women) who buy even more clothing...
Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot
Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of personality. Earlier this year we h...
Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot
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No, unfortunately we had to give up on that project. We tried a fitting but the style wasn't working....
Bespoke is the future
During a sunny, late lunch in Madrid last month, Norman Vilalta and I spent some time talking about his experiments with new materials, and ideas on working with high-technology companies like Nike. It occurred to me that one of the reasons I enjoy...
Bespoke is the future
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I completely agree. The only other thing to say is that almost anything can be a luxury. It's just a question of choice. A night of drinking in London at £5 a pint is also a luxury......
Five tips on bespoke shoes
I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I know it’s the same as the f...
Five tips on bespoke shoes
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Absolutely Lindsay, there's lots of coverage around the site. Perhaps start with the post 'The bespoke shoemakers I have known' https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/10/the-shoemakers-i-have-known.html...
Norman Vilalta, Luca and El Aristocrata
As mentioned on Monday, last week I was in Madrid to speak at a meeting of the El Aristocrata gentleman’s club. Speakers below, left to right: tailor Jose Maria Reillo, shoemaker Norman Vilalta, me, Jose Maria ( El Aristocrata) and Luca Rub...
Norman Vilalta, Luca and El Aristocrata
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Bespoke is about the same level in London for value - from G&G, Cleverley etc. Saint Crispin's is a great option, for a modified last but not full bespoke. Have a look at what I've written about them. But they're not in ...
Stefano Bemer, farewell
Stefano Bemer, a great man and shoemaker, died yesterday. I had the privilege of knowing and working with Stefano earlier this year. He was, as is probably obvious from the tributes that have followed his death, a wonderfully warm and welcoming man. ...
Stefano Bemer, farewell
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A Salute to this Great Artisan;May he rest in peace......
What I did this summer
Not much of an excuse to post this, except to celebrate being on holiday. The nearest I can get is the Rapha gear, which is performing very well. There is some geeky satisfaction in demonstrating that wool (mix, jersey) and leather (shoes) perform be...
What I did this summer
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Cheers Tim. I think those jerseys are more style than craft, but some are definitely lovely things. And where are you living that moths are so all pervading? What do you do with your knitwear?...
