The eternal style of the shawl-collar cardigan

September 29th 2014

If you don’t own a shawl-collar cardigan, it’s the one sweater you should invest in this winter. No other knitwear is more versatile: its collar makes it the only style that works with T-shirts, shirts or polos, for everyone. Some m...

The eternal style of the shawl-collar cardigan

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I have two of the shawl collared cardigans from Drake’s and a William Lockie labelled one that I bought from Richard Gelding (Baltzar). Although they look identical, they’re not in reality. The Lockie one seems to be...

Knitwear - StyleSeptember 29th 2014

Johnstons of Elgin

August 25th 2014

Johnston’s is one of Scotland’s best-known and oldest knitwear companies. Most of its production is for third parties – it is the preferred supplier to several of the biggest men’s luxury brands. But it also ...

Johnstons of Elgin

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Hey - asked Graham and yes it's a Johnston's cloth, but no it's not the one from the website, as Graham had his made bespoke....

KnitwearAugust 25th 2014

The perfect cardigan: Updates and details

August 13th 2014

THE FINAGON CARDIGAN WAS PUT INTO SMEDLEY’S PERMANENT COLLECTION FOLLOWING THIS COLLABORATION. YOU CAN BUY IT ON THE SMEDLEY SITE. – Following Monday’s post on the cardigan we have developed with John Smedley –...

The perfect cardigan: Updates and details

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Yeah it's not a great ecommerce system. Pleased it worked in the end though...

KnitwearAugust 13th 2014

The perfect cardigan – Permanent Style x Sm...

August 11th 2014

THE FINAGON CARDIGAN WAS PUT INTO SMEDLEY’S PERMANENT COLLECTION FOLLOWING THIS COLLABORATION. YOU CAN BUY IT ON THE SMEDLEY SITE. – Last year I began working with John Smedley on our next project – the perfect cardigan. ...

The perfect cardigan – Permanent Style x Sm...

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This is a very old product and old post, we don't do this any more...

KnitwearAugust 11th 2014

Al Bazar, Milan – a style all its own

March 24th 2014

I’ve known Lino Ieluzzi, the proprietor of Al Bazar in Milan, for a few years now and always admired his style. I wouldn’t wear it; I wouldn’t recommend it; but it is unique, personal and consistent. The worst thing about so-called ...

Al Bazar, Milan – a style all its own

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Vitale Barberis Canonica, Loro Piana and few others....

Knitwear - ShirtsMarch 24th 2014

How to wear a cardigan

March 21st 2014

Several readers commented in last week’s post on trousers that they would appreciate something similar on cardigans in such outfits. So here we go. I will largely be talking about sleeveless cardigans (although given we will assume they ar...

How to wear a cardigan

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Without muddying the waters too much for the non British,I would say you could use a jumper for goalposts,but not a cardigan....

Knitwear - StyleMarch 21st 2014

How to stretch a sweater

March 5th 2014

I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love polishing shoes so much. One task...

How to stretch a sweater

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Not with acrylic, no...

KnitwearMarch 5th 2014

The Dartmoor in grey: Buy the perfect polo

January 20th 2014

– NOW SOLD OUT – As flagged up last week, we are now offering a new edition of the Dartmoor sweater – the long-sleeved polo shirt I designed with John Smedley. You voted for our second edition to be in the mid-grey show...

The Dartmoor in grey: Buy the perfect polo

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Thank you for the swift reply!...

KnitwearJanuary 20th 2014

New Dartmoor order! But which colour do you want?

January 14th 2014

– VOTING CLOSED! (Wednesday, 5pm) After a last-minute rush, grey (silver) is the winner. Thank you to everyone that voted. Orders for our exciting new grey Dartmoor – the perfect polo – will start on Monday. I will post ...

New Dartmoor order! But which colour do you want?

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With the three together, yes. And good idea to have some pattern in there so it's not all plain. Could also add with a pocket hank...

KnitwearJanuary 14th 2014

Slim-fitting knitwear at Anderson & Sheppard

October 14th 2013

Most shops do not redesign the knitwear they stock. They pick colours and models, and decide which sizes to carry, but the overall design and fit is left untouched. This is perhaps understandable: they do the same with other stock such as ties and ha...

Slim-fitting knitwear at Anderson & Sheppard

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It is dressy, yes. I wouldn’t wear it with denim...

KnitwearOctober 14th 2013

A good tool for removing pilling from sweaters

September 9th 2013

I’m not great at looking after anything apart from shoes. Suits I brush down occasionally, but certainly not after every use, and knitwear rarely gets much of a look-in. In an effort to change this I recently picked up a few of the garment care...

A good tool for removing pilling from sweaters

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I know this is a very old post, but I found some of the movie's suits on Ebay, apparently all the tailoring was made by Cantarelli. Hope that helps....

KnitwearSeptember 9th 2013

Permanent Style x John Smedley: The perfect polo

June 26th 2013

– NOW SOLD OUT – For anyone who likes bespoke or made-to-measure clothing, knitwear can be frustrating – particularly for wearing with that bespoke clothing, where you want the fit and finish to be as precise as the pieces ...

Permanent Style x John Smedley: The perfect polo

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Sunspel...

KnitwearJune 26th 2013

The Stoll cotton-collar knitter

May 15th 2013

Fans of traditional weaving and knitwear brands are funny about old machines. They often equate old machinery with superior techniques, when the new machines usually do at least as good a job – just faster. Usually the reason the brand still ha...

The Stoll cotton-collar knitter

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i have use stolls for collar like 220 full/ shape callar and use cotton and polyester/cotton as well as polester.WITH MACHINES today that type machine is no longer use .SHIMA SEIKI are use as well as unversal ,or any mac...

KnitwearMay 15th 2013

The John Smedley drum

May 13th 2013

This is the drum of the old John Smedley silver band, which sits in the newly opened Smedley archives and is the focus on my favourite anecdote from the factory’s history. Smedley was known around the region for its silver band – differen...

The John Smedley drum

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Now, as in the current time of the story....

KnitwearMay 13th 2013

John Smedley: the factory

May 10th 2013

Last week I visited the John Smedley factory in Matlock, and it has quickly become my favourite anywhere. The oldest factory in the world still in production, it is nestled in between Derbyshire hills, with a babbling brook (the Lea) running through ...

John Smedley: the factory

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Dear Luke, would it be possible to use your pictures of John Smedley for our display. We are a little store selling John Smedley. If yes, it would be great to have get them in higher resolution. Best regards Peter...

Factory visits - KnitwearMay 10th 2013

Things I was wrong about: The sleeveless cardigan

April 8th 2013

One of the disconcerting things about the growing popularity of Permanent Style is the regularity with which readers find old posts – usually via search engines – and question me about them. I dislike being called an expert today, whether...

Things I was wrong about: The sleeveless cardigan

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Do William Crabtree do them? Or Campbell's?...

KnitwearApril 8th 2013

Why sartorialists should love John Smedley

March 15th 2013

Of the tailors I have interviewed recently in my Style and the Tailor series, several have mentioned that they wear John Smedley knitwear at the weekend. There is a reason for this. Smedley rightly calls itself ‘tailored’ knitwear. It is ...

Why sartorialists should love John Smedley

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Sorry, cotton and wool of course...

KnitwearMarch 15th 2013

Anderson & Sheppard on Clifford Street: It’s ...

March 8th 2013

It is perhaps understandable to assume that the new Anderson & Sheppard store on Clifford Street is expensive. Bespoke suits round the corner certainly aren’t cheap, while in Clifford Street the trousers are over £300 and you can ...

Anderson & Sheppard on Clifford Street: It’s ...

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Yes the staff are very customer focussed in that store and are good at presenting their products and getting customers to try them on. (Unlike Edward Green who have a fantastic product but don't offer the same quality of...

Hanks and scarves - KnitwearMarch 8th 2013

North Sea Clothing

December 10th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 325 1855 Euromoney PLC 15 3 2278 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false I’m always interested in clothing that is different. Other than the fancies of fashion, very little changes in menswear. So if a piece is cut, wov...

North Sea Clothing

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I recently acquired the New Cadet Heavy Long Sleeve Crew Neck shirt in Navy without the breast pocket and I can tell you that this is an excellent shirt, but warm! I can recommend it....

KnitwearDecember 10th 2012

Anderson & Sheppard: the Clifford Street shop

September 3rd 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 390 2227 Euromoney PLC 18 4 2734 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false We’re starved of good, independent shops in London. It’s great for fashion brands – if there’s a trend or a hot new label, t...

Anderson & Sheppard: the Clifford Street shop

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I find the above arguments more interesting in what they say about those posting than the issue at hand. Anderson & Sheppard are a business - if they can't sell trousers at £350+ they won't make money and the shop will ...

KnitwearSeptember 3rd 2012

How to stop sweaters pilling

March 14th 2012

Good knitwear needs to be looked after, tempting though it is to think that it rarely needs cleaning or anything else. A regular clean does more than just stop the piece smelling: it also brings up the fibres, brings back colour and, perhaps unexpect...

How to stop sweaters pilling

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I don't use specialist laundry detergents. It's mostly about washing delicate, line or rack drying etc, rather than the detergent...

KnitwearMarch 14th 2012

Anderson & Sheppard, haberdashers

November 8th 2011

Anderson & Sheppard is opening up new premises on Clifford Street. And my, hasn’t there been a fuss. Those that have fussed the most might have done well to remember that A&S used to do ladies’ wear and ready to wear. (W...

Anderson & Sheppard, haberdashers

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From the Anthology, pale grey Art du Lin linen...

KnitwearNovember 8th 2011

The satisfaction of darning a sweater

October 26th 2011

I was horrified to discover at the weekend that one of my Loro Piana Roadster sweaters had a moth hole in. Two, in fact. Despite the various moth products and regular airing. The experience, however, had an upside. I believe in buying high-quality pr...

The satisfaction of darning a sweater

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The quality is good, I wouldn't worry about that...

KnitwearOctober 26th 2011

The virtues of a shawl-collar cardigan

December 17th 2010

I’ve always liked shawl-collar cardigans. One reason is that I have a long neck, which benefits from a collar. T-shirts and round-neck sweaters tend to make me look scrawny. Shirts, polo shirts and polo-collared sweaters provide more support. T...

The virtues of a shawl-collar cardigan

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Certainly David, that would work. It could start to look a little old-mannish, but that could be alleviated with the cut or colour - or simply leant into if that's your style...

KnitwearDecember 17th 2010

A lovely evening sewing a sweater

October 20th 2010

There is such pleasure in looking after good clothes well. One of the reasons shoes are my favourite piece of clothing is they actually get better with age: the upper shapes to your foot; perhaps more importantly, the insole does too; and the leather...

A lovely evening sewing a sweater

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Just finished my darn. It came out very passably - just wanted to say thanks for the encouragement!...

KnitwearOctober 20th 2010