Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 19th 2018

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

June 4th 2018

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back i...

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back i...

Factory visits - TailoringJune 4th 2018

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

March 5th 2018

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan...

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan...

Factory visits - SuitsMarch 5th 2018

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It als...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It als...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 2016

Barbour: Factory and repairs

March 4th 2015

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Barbour: Factory and repairs

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 4th 2015

Quality, embroidery and mechanisation – at Begg

February 13th 2015

The video above shows the key aspect of quality control at most weaving houses. Workers quickly scan the cloth for faults, then either snip off the stray end or – much more laboriously – manually reweave th...

Quality, embroidery and mechanisation – at Begg

The video above shows the key aspect of quality control at most weaving houses. Workers quickly scan the cloth for faults, then either snip off the stray end or – much more laboriously – manually reweave th...

Accessories - Factory visitsFebruary 13th 2015

Begg & Co: luxury scarves, Ayr

December 24th 2014

Begg & Co is not in the most prepossessing location. Ayr is far from a glamorous location anyway, but the factory itself is down a side street, opposite several blocks of council flats. Still, that’s often th...

Begg & Co: luxury scarves, Ayr

Begg & Co is not in the most prepossessing location. Ayr is far from a glamorous location anyway, but the factory itself is down a side street, opposite several blocks of council flats. Still, that’s often th...

Accessories - Factory visitsDecember 24th 2014

How a Mackintosh is made

December 10th 2014

How is a Mackintosh made? With an odd, perhaps appealingly simple process: cut out pieces of bonded cotton and stick them together with blobs of glue, using your fingers. A few weeks ago Luke and I visited one of the t...

How a Mackintosh is made

How is a Mackintosh made? With an odd, perhaps appealingly simple process: cut out pieces of bonded cotton and stick them together with blobs of glue, using your fingers. A few weeks ago Luke and I visited one of the t...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 10th 2014

Robert Noble mill, Peebles

November 24th 2014

We visited Robert Noble in Scotland last month on the strength of its archive. But while that was impressive, perhaps more interesting was the company’s history and perspective as a mill weaving almost exclusivel...

Robert Noble mill, Peebles

We visited Robert Noble in Scotland last month on the strength of its archive. But while that was impressive, perhaps more interesting was the company’s history and perspective as a mill weaving almost exclusivel...

Factory visitsNovember 24th 2014

The inside line: Gaziano & Girling in How to S...

November 19th 2013

It has been a year since I began my column with How to Spend It looking at value in menswear. Nice as it was, we had covered most of the basics – so the editors and I decided recently to change tack. The new col...

The inside line: Gaziano & Girling in How to S...

It has been a year since I began my column with How to Spend It looking at value in menswear. Nice as it was, we had covered most of the basics – so the editors and I decided recently to change tack. The new col...

Factory visits - ShoesNovember 19th 2013

John Smedley: the factory

May 10th 2013

Last week I visited the John Smedley factory in Matlock, and it has quickly become my favourite anywhere. The oldest factory in the world still in production, it is nestled in between Derbyshire hills, with a babbling br...

John Smedley: the factory

Last week I visited the John Smedley factory in Matlock, and it has quickly become my favourite anywhere. The oldest factory in the world still in production, it is nestled in between Derbyshire hills, with a babbling br...

Casual wear - Factory visitsMay 10th 2013

Barbour video: the factory and the aftercare

September 13th 2012

I love this video made in the Barbour factory and the homes of some of its long-term customers. Barbours are great for patination – a fancy word for ‘dirt’ in this case – and I didn’t realis...

Barbour video: the factory and the aftercare

I love this video made in the Barbour factory and the homes of some of its long-term customers. Barbours are great for patination – a fancy word for ‘dirt’ in this case – and I didn’t realis...

Casual jackets - Casual wearSeptember 13th 2012

Alfred Sargent factory

May 4th 2012

I was recently contacted by photographer Steve Lancefield, who is in the process of visiting various British factories and took these of the Alfred Sargent factory in Rushden, Northampton. I’ve visited many in Nort...

Alfred Sargent factory

I was recently contacted by photographer Steve Lancefield, who is in the process of visiting various British factories and took these of the Alfred Sargent factory in Rushden, Northampton. I’ve visited many in Nort...

Factory visits - ShoesMay 4th 2012

Corgi: The machines

February 20th 2012

There are three types of knitting machines at Corgi: old, domestic models; double-bed machines; and single-bed machines. All require hand framing – that is, the worker must pull the carriage up and down by hand. ...

Corgi: The machines

There are three types of knitting machines at Corgi: old, domestic models; double-bed machines; and single-bed machines. All require hand framing – that is, the worker must pull the carriage up and down by hand. ...

Accessories - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 2012

Corgi: Factory visit

February 17th 2012

Corgi is a lovely little company, just outside Swansea in south Wales. It’s been around since 1893 and has the Prince of Wales’s royal warrant. But, more importantly, it’s one of only a few companies le...

Corgi: Factory visit

Corgi is a lovely little company, just outside Swansea in south Wales. It’s been around since 1893 and has the Prince of Wales’s royal warrant. But, more importantly, it’s one of only a few companies le...

Accessories - Factory visitsFebruary 17th 2012

Bresciani – factory visit

December 23rd 2011

Most of the factories I visit present few surprises in the manufacturing process. I’ve seen a lot of looms, from Hattersleys made in 1910 to the latest air-pressure machines that make up most of the production at L...

Bresciani – factory visit

Most of the factories I visit present few surprises in the manufacturing process. I’ve seen a lot of looms, from Hattersleys made in 1910 to the latest air-pressure machines that make up most of the production at L...

Accessories - Factory visitsDecember 23rd 2011

Loro Piana: Quarona factory visit

December 14th 2011

My favourite room at the Loro Piana facilities was the first one they took us too: a vast warehouse, 50 metres or so high and stretching perhaps a hundred off into the distance. We stood on a metal viewing gallery about ...

Loro Piana: Quarona factory visit

My favourite room at the Loro Piana facilities was the first one they took us too: a vast warehouse, 50 metres or so high and stretching perhaps a hundred off into the distance. We stood on a metal viewing gallery about ...

Casual wear - ClothDecember 14th 2011

Fox Flannel: Factory visit

December 8th 2011

When you approach the town of Wellington over a rolling Somerset hill, you are greeted by a row of chimneys silhouetted against the horizon. This is the outline of the old Fox Brothers facilities, which at its peak emplo...

Fox Flannel: Factory visit

When you approach the town of Wellington over a rolling Somerset hill, you are greeted by a row of chimneys silhouetted against the horizon. This is the outline of the old Fox Brothers facilities, which at its peak emplo...

Factory visits - TailoringDecember 8th 2011

Postcard from Spirano

December 2nd 2011

At Bresciani today, in Spirano just outside Bergamo. Lovely socks, and some nice sheep too. They’ll be the socks chapter of my upcoming book. More photos on www.andybarnham.com...

Postcard from Spirano

At Bresciani today, in Spirano just outside Bergamo. Lovely socks, and some nice sheep too. They’ll be the socks chapter of my upcoming book. More photos on www.andybarnham.com...

Accessories - Factory visitsDecember 2nd 2011

Postcard from Switzerland

December 1st 2011

In Coldrerio and Mendrisio, Switzerland, today to visit Zimmerli underwear. That’s the cloth being cut in Mendrisio. Zimmerli will be included in The Finest Menswear in the World as the producer of the best underwe...

Postcard from Switzerland

In Coldrerio and Mendrisio, Switzerland, today to visit Zimmerli underwear. That’s the cloth being cut in Mendrisio. Zimmerli will be included in The Finest Menswear in the World as the producer of the best underwe...

Accessories - Factory visitsDecember 1st 2011

Postcard from Quarona

November 30th 2011

Quality control that resembles an odd art installation at Loro Piana’s knitwear facility in Sillavengo, down the road from the Quarona headquarters. In the area this week for three chapters in my next book: The Fin...

Postcard from Quarona

Quality control that resembles an odd art installation at Loro Piana’s knitwear facility in Sillavengo, down the road from the Quarona headquarters. In the area this week for three chapters in my next book: The Fin...

Casual wear - Factory visitsNovember 30th 2011

Hawick, Vanners and Robert Noble – Duchamp fa...

November 21st 2011

Good friend Eric Musgrave – author of Sharp Suits among other things – has got a great job, going around the country making films of all the factories where Duchamp has its products made. It’s almost as...

Hawick, Vanners and Robert Noble – Duchamp fa...

Good friend Eric Musgrave – author of Sharp Suits among other things – has got a great job, going around the country making films of all the factories where Duchamp has its products made. It’s almost as...

Factory visitsNovember 21st 2011

Breanish Tweed: Unique luxury

November 16th 2011

Breanish Tweed has all the hallmarks of a Harris tweed weaver: old single-width looms stored in draughty sheds; decades of experience in hand weaving; a stunning but hostile location that constantly reminds one of tweed&...

Breanish Tweed: Unique luxury

Breanish Tweed has all the hallmarks of a Harris tweed weaver: old single-width looms stored in draughty sheds; decades of experience in hand weaving; a stunning but hostile location that constantly reminds one of tweed&...

Cloth - Factory visitsNovember 16th 2011