The making of my Marinella tie hasn’t quite gone according to plan. When I received it – admittedly very quickly, after little more than a week – the length was correct but it was the standard width at the bottleneck. As I explained in the previous post, I wanted the neck wider in order to create a longer knot.
This may have been partially my fault, as I changed the order – to 9cm at the tip rather than 10cm – while talking to shop manager Dani on the plane back from Naples. Nonetheless, there were only three things to remember (length, width at tip, width at neck).
The tie went back and was remade, again in just over a week. Impressive, particularly given the rush to get things done before Italy closes down for August.
The neck has been corrected, though I’m not sure entirely by the half centimetre I requested. If not, the difference is marginal – millimetres that can easily be added or subtracted depending on how you press the tie when measuring.
And the tie itself – texture, weight, colour and knotting – is lovely. The construction I would call a 10-fold, given that there are that many of folds in the silk and that system corresponds to a three-fold conventional tie. But then everyone calls something different a seven-fold. Kiton’s are five-fold, as are the multifolds from Hermès, while Bulgari is six-fold.
A lovely cloth, and a great reflection of local, traditional tie-making in Naples. Even if it took a while to get there.
Note: The London store is now stocking vintage Marinella ties, going back to the forties and fifties, made then but unworn since. Each has the date hand-written on the back. Three folds, around £130.
I’m all for tie-makers and the tweaks you can get from a tie made to specifications, but there’s also a bit of a pretence going on. All that silk folded inside does not automatically make the tie hang or sit better or perform any astonishing function – indeed a 7-fold tie hangs no better than a quality 6 or 4 fold with lining, and more ‘folds’ is not better, just like more blades does not necessarily make for a better razor. The wastage of usable silk for display is just crazy.
The chance of choosing the cloth itself; self-tipping or a chosen silk for tipping; width and other size specifications are great, but let us not kid ourselves that there is something else special about having a tie made up.
I agree about the seven fold. It is a beautiful practice and produces a beautiful, unique product, but there is no practical benefit. Then again, that’s true of many aspects of hand construction in a suit or shirt.
That looks so beautiful!
Simon – is it worth buying a pocket square from e. Marinella
They will be well made and pretty good value, so if you like the design, yes
How would you say this compares to the regular ties?
To Marinella’s regular ties? The make is available ready-made as well, it’s just that you get to pick the silk
Just received 2 really nice ties from them. Very subtle patterned finish in brown and dark green. Very happy with the choice. I haven’t always made the best tie choices in the past, they are always well made and high quality but too strident. The subtlety in the palette on these was inspired by your own preferences and posts.
Nice to hear Malcolm, thanks. I hope you get much pleasure out of wearing them
Dear Simon.
Could You recommend a dry cleaning place in London where I can safely clean my E. Maronella ties?
Well, I’d go to the Valet, but also ask Marinella themselves in their shop perhaps