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One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled.

I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recommendations for a while, so I can point readers there and don’t have to reply in full every time.

So a selfish motivation, primarily. But I’m also hoping that this Resources page will become a useful reference document - something readers might bookmark and refer to.

Of course, as with most things on this site, this is just a list of my experiences and recommendations. So that does limit it a little, particularly geographically.

As a result, I’m thinking that if three or more readers recommend somewhere else, I will add it to the list, making clear that is why it is listed.

If anyone has any views on a different way to handle this, please do chip in.

Below, then, is a list of the places I have used, liked and can recommend, with a few comments and details on each.

 

Dry cleaning

Although dry cleaning should be done as infrequently as possible on tailoring (perhaps once a year depending on usage) there will be times when it is required, often with particularly tough stains.

The key to a good cleaner is one that will do pieces individually, and can press well - most high-street cleaners fall down on this point, ruining lapels and collars by pressing them flat.

Michael Norman

  • No street-facing space - operates through pick-ups (most areas in and around London)
  • www.mnbespoke.com, [email protected]
  • I’ve used Michael for a few years and he has been consistently good, on cleaning and pressing
  • There are a few other good dry cleaners in central London used by Savile Row tailors, but they tend to just clean, with the tailor then doing the pressing.
  • Those include Buckingham Dry Cleaners (Duke St, Mayfair), Mr Steeds (South London, collects) and Celebrity Dry Cleaners (Green’s Court, Soho)

 

Pressing

Suits and jackets often need a press once or twice a season, rather than a full clean. And while most tailors will happily do that for their customers (often for a small fee) this isn’t possible with foreign tailors. So it’s useful to have somewhere that can do it locally.

The Pressers (George Varvara)

  • 59 Brewer Street, top floor, London
  • [email protected]
  • George does pressing work for many Savile Row tailors, and I have used him on a number of occasions
  • Only pressing - not cleaning, repairs, loose buttons etc
  • Does not collect, but will receive deliveries of tailoring

 

Invisible Mending

Holes or cuts in tailoring can often be repaired invisibly, reweaving the cloth so nothing shows afterwards. This can be expensive, usually from £80 up to £200 or £300; but if it saves a £4000 suit, it’s worth it.

Tailors use various people, mostly based at home outside London. But there is one good resource in Marylebone - British Invisible Mending.

British Invisible Mending

 

Tailoring alterations

Most alterations should, again, be done by the original tailor, but that’s not always easy with foreign tailors, or possible with ready-to-wear brands.

The ideal here is somewhere that is a tailor themselves, but is happy to do alterations on other tailors’ work.

Graham Browne

  • 12 Well Court, London
  • www.grahambrowne.co.uk, 020 7248 7730
  • I’ve had suits made at Graham Browne (run by Russell Howarth) and had many alterations done over the years.
  • Some high-street dry cleaners have tailors in-house, who can deal with simple changes like shortening trouser legs, taking in trouser waists, and perhaps narrowing a jacket waist. I’ve used Atelier Colpani for such changes.

 

Knitwear repair

Most people should clean their knitwear more than they do - once every few months perhaps - and that helps with pilling and other signs of wear.

However, those that specialise in it can remove all pilling very effectively, as well as darning moth holes, and repairing collars and cuffs.

Love Cashmere

  • Ladylaw Mill, Hawick, Scotland
  • www.lovecashmere.com, 01450 377648
  • Operates by post.
  • I’ve used Love Cashmere a few times and been very impressed - see post here. Knitwear comes back cleaned, de-pilled, repaired and feeling like new - and it’s cheap, usually £20-£50.
  • They can do all forms of repair, and even some alterations, such as slimming bodies. The latter is risky, however, and I sewed my own alteration for them to then fashion properly

 

Leather clothing repair and alterations

I wish I'd known I could get leather jackets altered earlier in my life. Stuck between a medium size on the shoulders and a small on the waist, I would often get the small as I knew a big waist would annoy be more.

In recent years, I've always bought the right fit on the shoulders (as should be done on tailoring) and had the waist taken in.

Cromford Leather

  •  56 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, London
  • www.cromfordleather.co.uk, 020 7935 1041
  • Pauline and her team make for some large brands, offer their own line, and do all manner of repairs and alterations. I've had two jackets altered, and one repaired in the collar. I'm now having a made-to-measure jacket made.
  • You can read more about her work and alterations on old pieces here

 

Shoe resoling

It’s usually best, and safest, to give your shoes back to the original maker to be re-soled. However, many of the English makers also use re-soling places in London for this work, and the three I’ve listed here are all used in that way.

They will also do some things you might rather not give to your shoemaker - such as changing the sole for a different style.

Tonys Heel Bar

Kokos Shoes and Repairs

Fifth Avenue Shoe Repairs

 

Shoe polishing and patination

There is a very particular pleasure in polishing your own shoes. But if you’re lazy, bad at it, or want to change the colour with dyes (patination) then a specialist is needed.

They can also often help with things like cleaning or damage, and recommend other places for resoling or repair.

The Jaunty Flaneur

  • c/o Cad and the Dandy, 13 Savile Row, 1st Floor, London
  • www.thejauntyflaneur.com, 07546 324641
  • Tom Beecroft and Parijat Upadhyaya are ‘the Jaunty Flaneur’ based in the Cad and the Dandy space on Savile Row. PJ has patinated shoes a pair of Dovers me and helped clean some white nubuck ‘bucks’, both with great results.
  • They also work on leather goods such as bags and wallets, and can sometimes carve a tighter waist on shoes.

 

Trimmings and equipment

Resources to buy the things you need to look after clothes yourself

 

Please do add your own thoughts, experiences and recommendations.

And by the way, things you should be able to do yourself include polishing shoes, sewing buttons, darning small holes, pressing trouser creases, steaming jackets, and looking after suede.

Some resources on PS that could help there are:

Here's to buying better, lasting longer, and loving more.

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George

Pinnas & Needles in Soho are fantastic, very good quality work. They do some bespoke as well but haven’t heard any reviews (would be curious though!). a pair of Sicilian twins in a lovely corner of London. Worth popping into Andrew Edmunds for lunch as well!
G

Anonymous

Would add that their key flaw is opening hours – 9-6 with no weekends!

George M

I would like to recommend Pinnas and Needles also. Had them shorten a sleeve on a jacket by around 9cm, which they shortened from the sleeve head with brilliant results. Sleeve lining was very well hand finished internally. Their prices are reasonable for the quality of work.

Animesh

Completely agree with this suggestion. Have taken RTW suits to them for years and they have always done a great job. Very modest prices.

Jonny

I also highly recommend P&N. Their attention to detail is phenomenal. They’re the only people I trust to handle things like sleeve pitch.

I hope to try their bespoke offering one day. Can’t really find a nicer set of guys too.

BespokeNYC

Very helpful list! Do you have anybody you use for alterations with denim?

Anonymous

Classic Shoe Repairs in Islington have my vote. Outstanding quality and service.

BespokeNYC

Thanks! Am I correct in thinking the chain stitch is only necessary for shortening? i.e. it’s not needed for taking in the waist, etc?

Anonymous

Denim doctor in Manchester

Philip Park

This is very useful information, something I had been waiting for.
Can I rely on Graham Browne for sleeve shortening via shoulder?
Many thanks
Phil

Nick Inkster

And shortening from the shoulder doesn’t work for patterned fabrics as the matching is lost

Albert

If I’m not mistaken you had used Burford Valet in the past. Is there any specific reason why they are not included in here?
I have used them in the past, after discovering them on your site, with good results, but can’t compare with any of the other names mentioned here, so was curious to understand the differences. Thank you

Bamboccio

I would say that it would be more useful to have a list as locations may not be practical for everyone

Ant

Not a new recommendation, more a further endorsement (if needed!) for Tony’s Heel Bar. I understand J Fitzpatrick uses Tony for all their toe taps, for example – and the price is very reasonable compared to using many makers own factory. I also had Tony change some buckles on a recent J Fitz MTO

Bamboccio

Distinctive Shoe Repairs in Paddington is top quality.
For alterations in London I use Artesian Tailors in Chepstow Road.
For invisible mending I use two sisters in Rome near Piazza Cavour: they saved a few items that had moth holes and they also re-stitched a cashmere jumper.
For dry cleaning I tried Blanc near Portobello Road but I was not satisfied.

Sam

I’d certainly recommend British Invisible Mending too. They sucessfully mended some very pominent moth holes on the front of a flanel suit jacket with very good results. Given how painstaking the work they undertake are, and hoe good their reuslt are I think their prices are reasonable.

Peter K

I won’t make a recommendation since I live in a western Canadian city that I suspect few other readers live in as well.

I had a seamstress add gussets to two shirts where the armholes were to tight. Very reasonable price and two shirts were saved that I otherwise could not wear anymore.

Many of the alterations tailors I spoke to had no idea what a gusset is. The one I found does costume work for theater and regularly uses gussets to make vintage clothing items fit. A very useful person to have found.

Sky

There are some Edmontonians here… recommend away. 🙂

Peter K

Good guess on Edmonton. I can recommend Tony the Tailor for alterations but I used Lucille Fester at Rhythm Fabrics for the gussets.

Chancellor

Edmonton ex-pat here as well. 🙂

Thanks for these recommendations!

Peter K

I’m curious to know if any Edmontonians have used John the Tailor for bespoke suits or sport coats.

Ryan

Has anybody used Jeeves for shirt laundering? If so, what are your thoughts? £7.50 per shirt is clearly at the top end of the market but is it worth it?

Robert

This bears repeating. Far too many iGents go on about dry cleaning their luxury bespoke shirts.

Shirts are made to be laundered at home. By definition. Including the most expensive bespoke shirts. Cotton is not damaged by cold water and soap (whereas it is damaged by many of the nasty chemicals used in dry cleaning). And a shirt is a single layer of fabric, so you don’t have to worry about it getting deformed.

The only exception (only just, and only if nothing else works) is if you need to remove the odd nasty stain like ballpoint ink.

I’m all for patronising professional shops, but dry cleaning your shirts is blasphemy.

Ryan

Thanks Simon. I’ve always washed and ironed my shirts myself and was primarily looking at other options to save time. I care a lot about quality and longevity, though, so I’ll continue doing it myself.

Just out of interest, what part of the laundering process reduces the lifespan of the shirts? Previously I had thought this was only an issue with dry cleaning.

Nick Inkster

I have to agree with you Simon about external cleaners using industrial washing and pressing processes which are not kind to cloth.
I am very lucky to have found a local mother and daughter business who wash small batches of shirts, never mix colours, press by hand, and who collect my shirts from home and deliver them back to me on hangers. For £1.60 a shirt.
You will understand that I will not be sharing their contact details.

Michael Norman

Having only just seen this post, Anyone taking a shirt to the dry cleaners will be disappointed to learn that no dry cleaner would dry clean a shirt, nearly all shirts are washed. As Simon has said shirts on bulk, high temperature wash rpm’s of 1000 or more will do your shirts harm.
The best advice here for anyone wanting to do there own shirts are as follows, 40c quick wash Persil Bio with no more than a 800rpm spin speed (this spin speed is very important in not permanently creasing your shirt) It will make it easy for when you iron. Shirts would only be dry cleaned to remove grease stains, biro, and antiperspirant yellow stains
Hope this advice helps

Anonymous

Laundering and dry cleaning are totally different processes. The former uses soap and water, the latter uses chemicals.

Sending shirts to a good laundry should be no different, and therefore have no impact on life, than you doing it yourself at home.

The benefit is that it saves you a lot of time.

Avoid dry cleaners like the plague.

Tony Lupton

Agreed. I went through a period where I was getting shirts laundered at work for a price that I couldn’t ignore. Unfortunately, what I hadn’t factored in was what it did to the total cost of ownership and the need to replace shirts earlier (not to mention constantly having to replace buttons that were either broken or missing).

Dachshund

I’ve used TML Tailors on Gray’s Inn Road for years. Paul effectively remade my wardrobe when I lost a lot of weight. My cheap but really good.

larry

What resources to clean, repair and alter would you recommend for those of us that live in New York City? Thank you

Nick Inkster

When I lived in NYC, albeit 18 years ago, the Church’s shop recommended B. Nelson, who were, from memory, on Madison.

They resolved a couple of pairs of shoes for me and did a very good job.

Anonymous

Excellent idea for an article Simon. Classic shoe repairs in Islington is always highly recommended. New Stitches in Richmond is also recommended; I have had excellent invisible mending on woollen garments and a variety of jackets (sleeve length at shoulder), coats (length) and trousers altered to a high degree of finish. They also do leather (alterations and repairs). Also worth looking at Laine (74 St George’s Rd in Brighton) for alterations to woollen garments (sleeves, length etc. can be altered/lengthened esp. after any shrinkage).

Daniel

Thank you very much for the information ! If there are any Germans following PS I am able to recommend Ralf Poppe in Cologne. A bespoke shoemaker himself he does all repairs of (goodyear) welted shoes. And for a reasonable price comparing to have the shoes repaired by the producer.
#schuhmacherkoeln
http://www.schuhmacher-poppe.de

Anonymous

In the U.S., Rave Fabricare in Arizona, for cleaning and some repairs too. I doubt there is a better cleaner in the U.S. They do mail order.

For shoes, Willie’s Shoe Service in Los Angeles. They also make shoes so they know what they’re doing.

Reuven Lax

I’ve popped into Cad several times to see the jaunty flaneur. The only one I’ve ever seen working there is PJ Upadhyaya, who does some exquisite patina work.

Ben

I would add my endorsement of Pinnas & Needles, great service and great guys. New Stitch in Richmond also very good. I haven’t used Kokos for a while but they were excellent last time I used them.

Simon – any recommendations for repairs to leather bags?

Cletus

It is PJ at the Januty Flaneur that does all the patina work, shoe care and waist trimming not Tom.

Richard

Hi Simon
Thumbs up for Tony’s heel bar. Another very good place for shoe repair is George Shoe Repairs on Tottenham St.
For suit and odd trouser alterations I have used Hidalgo Brothers on Savile Row. Very good workmanship and value.

Paul Clewes

Hello Simon,

I have a very old, but very special pair of Oxfords that have a small split in them. Could you recommend someone who could patch them?

I’ve tried as many places as I’ve had hot dinners, but I’m afraid, I’ve come up short.

Thank you

Psul.

Guy Graff

Fabric repair in NYC……………..had wonderful bespoke suits w/moth damage, one in glen check and one mini hounds tooth pattern repaired beautifully. Patterns match where repaired, can’t see where the damage existed. Highly recommend, a dying breed:
French American Re-Weaving
119 W 57th ST Rm 1406
New York, NY
212-765-4670
Ronnie Moore

Paul

That’s a fantastic initiative, thanks a lot Simon. Looking forward to advice on US places.

A couple good spots in Paris:

Dry cleaning: Royal Pressing Berri, 44 Rue de Berri, 75008 – On the expensive side, but great service / great level of care, dry-cleaning done on site, and they offer to basically dry clean your suit by itself, with no other garment in the machine, for a little extra. Very good to remove stains from luxury ties too

Alterations & repairs: Maison Pen, 5 rue Pasquier, 75008 http://www.maisonpen.fr/ Former cutter at Smalto / Cifonelli / Arny’s – Can absolutely be trusted for heavy alterations

Guy Graff

P.S. forgot to mention this……………again related to NYC, a source for a vast selection of buttons:
Tender Buttons
143 E 62nd St
New York, NY
212-758-7004

Michael K.

If you live in the States anywhere outside NYC, DC, Chicago, San Francisco or LA, maybe Houston, there’s effectively no trustworthy option. Even big cities like Philadelphia, where I live, are impossible to trust with bespoke or couture clothing. I send suits and jackets once a year to Rave Fabriccare in Arizona. It’s expensive because of the postage, but reliable and the lapels and collars come back thoroughly supported with inflated plastic and beautifully shaped. They have also invisibly repaired several tears in a sportcoat I love, but is half-lined cashmere and ridiculously fragile. D&B Tailors in Newtown Square is a good option for those in Baltimore or Philly — Gabe’s house style is not to my taste but he will do expert alterations on others’ suits. Finally, B. Nelson shoe repair in NYC, which does mail order, is the only reliable option for shoe repair: they’ve resoled my favourite pair of old Church’s diplomats three times and converted two of my shoes to Dainite when I realized I mainly wore them in bad weather.

C Schreiber

I`ve used Golden Stich on golders green road in North West London quite a few times, with great results. Touch expensive, but then compared to other things on this site not really.

They also do a bit of MTM, with Holland and sherry fabrics, Zegna, ect. That I haven`t tried.

Also very quick.

Dave Carter

Hidalgo Brothers on Savile Row (right above Cad and Dandy) are excellent for alterations. They’ve expertly altered several jackets for me from the shoulder, which is an expert job.

Jason Fraser

I feel like we’re giving up secrets here as these recommendations are worth their weight in gold 🙂
Damian at Magic Stitch
23 Earls Court Rd
I’ve had a number of items altered by him including, suits, jackets, trousers, swimwear….he did a great job on a couple of my Loro Piana sweater jackets, which are pretty tricky as they’re unlined and have almost no excess fabric to play with.
Also for the married readers, your wives will love you for this recommendation. Magic Stitch is where a lot of the Sloane St / Bond St. designer stores send their dresses when the scope of the alterations are beyond the comfort level of their in-house seamstresses.

Simon, thank you for the recommendations…..I had used an excellent laundry service for my shirts during a stay in London and I forgot who they were, despite searching on the net, looking at credit card receipts etc. I just found them on your list (it was Buckingham cleaners)

Jorn

Maybe not in your confort zone, Simon, but do you (or someone else) know of some useful places for clothing alteration or shoe repair in Belgium?

Jorn

Thanks!

Michael

Hello Simon
Perhaps you can make a list per city, similar to your shopping guide per city. Readers can contribute locations for tailoring alterations, cleaning and repairs.

Richard T

For anyone in Yorkshire, I can recommend the Ilkley Shoe Company for resolving and repairs. The quality of work is good, with reasonable prices and good service. They also offer a postal service too. Highly recommended.

Simon

Great post, my uncle will be very pleased that Celebrity Dry Cleaners got a mention! He washes a presses all of my shirts some of which are now 4.5 years old.

On the same theme, with a full time job, Permanent Style and two kids, how on earth do you have the time to wash and iron your own shirts?!

CHIN-CHEN LEE

I wish you published this article when I was still living in London

Tony M

I wouldn’t recommend Graham Browne. I had a dispiriting experience with them went I went to get a jacket altered. I only went because they kept being recommended on here! From the outset I felt unwelcome, like my custom was really putting them out. And despite me telling them not to, they made the jacket too tight so it felt really restricted at the back. I don’t know who I dealt with but they seemed like old fashioned London cabbies, brusque and rude and acting like they were doing you a favour taking your money. Just my experience. I don’t doubt they’re lovely to Simon!

Domingo Reiman

I am completely agree with this tips. Outstanding quality and service.

Walter

Hi Simon,
who would you recommend for clothing storage services ?

Cei

Any recommendations for shirt/jacket alterations in Cambridge (UK), Simon?

Jonathan

Thanks for this article Simon, very useful. I have my late father’s old Barrow/Hepburn briefcase and would like to restore it. It’s in a mess, with curled edges, cracked leather, loose stitching etc… However, it is of sentimental value and from a good maker so worth the effort. I live near Northampton so hope there may be someone who could help nearby but a drawing blanks so far. Would you have any experience with this kind of leather restoration?
Thanks,
J

Jonathan

Thank you Simon. I will try that. I have also asked Barrow and Hepburn (they have an in-house restorer).

Robert

Try Martin Ashworth (www.mlworkshop.co.uk). Not quite Northampton but he knows his trade.

Jonathan

Thanks Robert. After a fair bit of research, I came across Martin too! Had a chat with him and he seems to fit the bill. He will re-stitch all seams, renovate leather (cracked, curled etc.) and hand make a new handle.

Richard T

I wonder if there would a market for a little course on how to look after clothes, particularly sponge and press. YouTube videos aren’t interactive and one can’t ask questions or gai much impression of technique.

brendan

Ive been using Jac Hui at 76 Berwick St, Soho, London for a couple of years and the work has been first class. Ive taken a number of garments from Brioni altered and its as good as the original work. its If its hand finished garment it will hand finished as the original. He does work for brands on Bond St, and prices are fair for the quality of work.

Erik Syverson

Allow me to contribute 2 crucial Los Angeles resources. For dry cleaning only browns cleaners in Santa Monica will do. For shoes, only Pasquale shoe repair on San Vicente. For tailoring that has to be kept secret of course.

Ray Song

Hi Simon,

I wonder if you have any sources of good dry cleaning vendors in HK? thanks a lot!

Richard Jones

Hi Simon, my first suit from a city tailor had a beautiful lapel roll, the second (same tailor) didn’t. Apologies if the question is obvious, can a lapel roll be achieved if it never had one? It has not been dry cleaned if that makes a difference?

Thanks for the Kokos recommendation, I look forward to picking up some refurbs this Saturday – followed by a nice pub lunch in East Finchley. 2 weeks turn around certainly helps.

Julius

Hi Simon, do you have any recommendation for sponge and press around Manchester (or North of England) ? You probably have some networks who live around here. Thanks !

MK

Any recommendations for pressers or cleaners in NYC? So hard to find a place that takes proper care of custom garments.

Richard T

Hi Simon,

Do you have any recommendations for someone who can alter shirts, specifically shorten the sleeves. I’ve had sleeves shortened successfully by Drakes on shirts I’ve bought from them, but TM Lewin botched it completely. I’m hoping that having made to measure shirts will obviate the need to have this done for more formal shirts, but I’m happy to buy RTW casual shirts if I can get the sleeves altered successfully.
Any suggestions?

Richard T

Thanks, Simon. I’ve emailed GB to ask if they do some alterations on an overcoat for me (G&H wool and cashmere for £200 in TK Max!) so I’ll ask what they think about doing shirts too.

Kit

Hi Simon,

I’ve got a particular bit of mending needed doing on my evening tail coat. It’s a vintage ensemble from the ’30s (tailors were Cooling Lawrence & Sons on Maddox Street) belonging to my neighbour’s father that he very kindly gave to me. It fits like a glove and now that it’s approaching the time of year I can wear it I have to address an issue.

The silk on the lapels seems to be coming free at the neck (due to abrasion other time, I would imagine), leaving black marks on the white of the shirt. Is this something you have come across before and would you recommend Invisible Mending for the job?

Carl Convery

No resources listed for sponge cleaning your suit!

The invisible mending resources are a godsend. The last invisible mending atelier in Paris closed a few years ago!

I read the posts about only dry cleaning your suit at most once a year and never your shirts with interest, but I was surprised to see no listings at all for somewhere to have your suit sponged. In the past many sry cleaners even did this, but none seem to do it today. I know that Savile Row tailors still send their clients suits up to Scotland (soft pure ph neutral granite water, no limescale) to have the suits sponge cleaned. Before overly harsh dry cleaning was invented this of course was the only way to clean a suit, though tougher stains might have required ammonia (or urine, baking soda etc.). Are there any good places left that will sponge clean your suit, which is the way that a tailored suit should be cleaned?

Also when discussing dry cleaning nobody mentioned the newish eco dry cleaning or green dry cleaning which I would presume might be less harsh though I hear that it can ruin some fabrics? Does anybody know any more about the subject?

A good dry cleaners in Moscow might have been useful a few years back, the local ones are notorious for using overly harsh chemicals and ruining suits in no time after a half dozen cleans and the air pollution is so bad that it actualy eats away at the fabric! I was so terrified for my suits that I actually sponge cleaned them at home myself! Probably not advisable, but it worked out perfectly and was the lesser of two risks!

Also there are no resources for hat re-blocking or repairing! Truly shocking. Has everyone really given up wearing hats? Does on here still wear their top hat several times a year at least? What about a fedora, trilby, astrakhan hat, tweed cap or fur hat?

Which brings me neatly on to the next missing resource, places to store your mans fur coat (either fur on the outside or fur lined, absolute survival essentials for a well dressed man in places like Russia or Canada or some northern states). Places to get a fur or astrakhan collar repaired, attached or replaced?

Finally what about gloves? Have these been relegated to verbaten wear these days? People do list leather repairers for coats and jackets and they might be able to restitch a gloves seam, but perhaps they might not do such a good job. So where can one find a good glove repair service which perhaps even includes cleaning or re-staining?

Many thanks for the wonderful resource guide as is, just a few omissions that were overlooked in the initial enthusiasim for creating this guide.
Carl

Carl Convery

Oh and of course, where to have your hat cleaned? Most dry cleaners will probably shrink or slightly deform it. I amde the mistake the other year of wearing my fedora after a days racing into a busy, young cocktail bar, with the result that many in the crowd thought it perfectly acceptable to take it off my head and try it on, others just begged for permission to try it, girls being the worst offenders. Unfortunately, it soon ended up rolling on the drink sodden floor and had to be professionally dry cleaned, rather than home steamed. I used the best place in town but it had slightly shrunk and the brim was curling up at the front and way too much at the back and the crease was gone in the crown. It’s semi revived now, but sadly not what it was!

Assed to this, where can you get your ties cleaned or dry cleaned? Obviously water might stain them and most dry cleaning shops will damage them as they don’t have the specialist machinery and without this it affects the long loose stitch and interlining. There are specialist tie cleaning machines but who around the world has them in their shop or is there a better way to clean your tie? Obviously doctors have been told to stop carrying pens around wards and wearing ties as they are rarely cleaned and they carry germs around the hospital (though consultants still wear them in Irish hospitals where I live now!), so a good resource is badly needed by many who are neglecting the cleaning of a key piece of apparel.

Perhaps the odd resource on tailors who can reverse shirt collars and cuffs. I’ve never tried this before, but I do meet people at my alterations tailor here in Dublin using this service (Gallahers tailors and alterations on Wicklow St, Dublin 1., a fully trained tailor who can deconstruct any jacket and remake it, resize it etc. Pretty good in my limited opinion, he does all the work for the local high end department store who stock Canali, Gieves & Hawkes, Tom Ford, Dolce & Gabana and all the other usuals which range from the poorly constructed to the fairly ok standard).
Carl

Carl Convery

Craft Cleaners in Ballsbridge, Dublin 4., Ireland, is the only dry cleaner I would trust with a good suit (or dress) in this city.

While not exactly clothing wear, it is part of the old expected dress code, so whilst if you have purchased an umbrella from one of the worlds last eight good makers of them , just return them to the maker to be repaired, but if you have an umbrella by an historic brand, your fathers old one or an undefined brand Smiths of London will repair them. Their store is a beautiful old umbrella store, where they of course still make and sell their own famous umbrellas.

Carl Convery

Thanks Simon for the tip on the sponge and press resource in London.

I know that there are very good hat re-blockers in NY still. A large Orthodox Jewish population has aided their preservation through the hatless 70s-90s. There are also two places I believe in London that will repair or even slightly re-size your top hat, but I’m afraid I don’t have those names to hand (they are somewhere buried deep in my cavernous resource guide that has finally been roughly filed, having been spread around the house on scraps of paper, magazines, internet searches and through wandering in diverse cities but the files still need to be processed!).

Another resource that is missing is a place to have your detachable collars cleaned. I know that there is only one place left in England, the other having closed about ten years ago and that it is somewhere in Devon or Cornwall from memory. It’s a very specialist job. Again, I have filed away this piece of information somewhere, as they had no online presence or address a few years ago, though no doubt this has now changed and hopefully someone will be good enough to mention them here as it is the final piece of information required for Simon’s list (along with a few from my previous comments). Thanks all for being so forthcoming with your recommendations.

George

I’d like to leave a (very belated) further endorsement for Michael Norman, who is absolutely fantastic. Michael has cleaned a number of suits for me and the service and results were consistently very good.

The most impressive job was a clean & repair of a Norton & Sons bespoke suit, which was wearing thin in the trousers. The suit came back meticulously repaired by Michael’s tailor (I’m not sure who this is), beautifully cleaned, and with life restored to the shape which had previously been butchered by Jeeves. Michael took the time to talk me through his process, inspected the suit thoroughly, and commented on the (somewhat disappointing) original quality of the make. Michael’s prices are very reasonable — I believe the repair was done for around 20% of the price quoted to me by Norton’s.

I should add that Michael also managed totally to remove a stubborn oil stain from the front of a Gieves & Hawkes suit made from a delicate Loro Piana wool, which I had thought was lost forever.

All delivered back to my house within a few days with a good quality wooden hanger and suit bag. It’s hard to imagine better value.

Dr Peter Sudevan

Most of these recommendations are for Londoners, since PS is based there and perhaps much of its readership comes from there. I’m across the pond, and I have one recommendation to make for the US. There’s a re-weaving service in Chicago named Without a Trace. They do outstanding work. I have used them myself, although not very recently. Their prices are a bit on the high side, in the neighbourhood of $100-$150, but their work is extraordinary — indeed, no trace of the hole can be found once they are done. Here is their website:

https://www.withoutatrace.com/

I hope this helps some of your readers in the US.

Kind regards,

Dr Peter Sudevan

Joel

Hi Simon,

I stupidly bought two pairs of Gucci suede loafers with lug soles in a size 9 when I should have got a size 8.5.

They aren’t available in England so I got them sent from the Gucci shop in New York.

I bought them before I had read your article about how shoes should fit.

I can wear them but they are looser than they should be. Can you off any advice about what I can do or am I stuck buying insoles from Timpson?

Joe

Dear Simon,

Please can you let us know about your clothing insurance?

Reason I ask is no matter how well you look after your clothes, shoes, shirts, ties, bags etc., accidents happen.

What do you do in this instance when for example you get a hole in a pair of trousers that belong to a Ciffonelli suit costing £5,000 and they aren’t repairable?

Looking at all your posts you must have clothing in value anywhere from £50,000 to £250,000.

Nick

Dear Simon,

Apologies if you have covered this before, but could you offer some advice of steamers and whether they are a good option suits?

Nick

Barry Kearney-Luc

Dear Simon,

I recently purchased a Belstaff Burfield Parka and am not so happy with the colour of the shearling trim on the hood and would like to have it replaced with a darker colour. Could you recommend someone who could do this for me?

with kind regards

Barry

Nikita

I’ve been looking for a decent cobbler for shoe resoling for both men & women’s shoes. The ones listed above popped up on a few recommended lists, however, Tony’s has very hit and miss revues, which turned me off as I’ve had some mediocre experiences in the past. Kokos, on the other hand, has excellent revues, and recent ones as well which is encouraging. I’ll be testing them out in the next few weeks and will update.

Nikita

So we finally picked up our shoes from Kokos. First of all when we dropped them off we got great service. I was having some gommino Tods resoled and they talked me through the various soles they had in stock and how they would make it work, particularly as I’d worn away some of the leather at the front and back.
George, the shoesmith came out and spent about 25 minutes talking to us and advising on what to do, whether we should have soles put on some new shoes, or if we should wear them a bit. My gf was concerned as she has some quite expensive designer shoes but George took the time to reassure her and not only give his advice but also explain why. Great service.
We picked up the shoes 3 weeks later and have been wearing them for the past two months. So far the workmanship has been great and haven’t had any issues.
Very happy with the service, attention to detail and final product. Overall I’d happily recommend Kokos and I’ll definitely be going back.

Luke

I just discovered your website. I live in Stanmore NW London and was wondering, is there someone in my area (this site seems to concentrate on central London) who can care for my suits e.g. steam, press and occasional clean. I’ve invested in a couple £400 half-canvas suits and want to care for them properly. What do I need to look for? Thank you.

Luke

Thank you. I understand some do a collection service, which would be worth it if I do a few items at once. Where can I find those?

Alex N.

Dear Simon,
Whitcomb and Shaftesbury recommended
K.S. Tailoring Services for alterations and repairs. The service was very good and work was very neat. The man behind it used to be a bespoke coat maker. However, I believe he was (what I would consider) unreasonably expensive. Taking out a jacket at the waist and side seam, and trousers at waist was around 150£. Perhaps this is the standard here, but I was surely surprised. He can be found at 11 St. George str. W1S 2FD (same as W&S) but on the lower ground floor.
07583131652. I hope that helps if anyone is looking, but have in mind it is not cheap.
Regards

H

Hi Simon, who would be your first port of call for repairing jeans? I have an Albam pair with a tear at the groin, and I’m wondering where to take them to be patched up.

H

Just to follow this up, many months later – I paused for a while before eventually taking them to Soldier Blue. They took a little longer than initially promised ( 7-10 working days, ended up being more like 3 weeks) but did a really faultless job. I would highly recommend them

https://www.soldierblue.co.uk/pages/denimrepairs

Susan Beck

Great article and very useful tips. Thank you for sharing your page.

Mike

Hello – love your website…Where should I get my shirts done? Cleaners hate the floating interlinings in the cuffs and collars and they never get it right….I don’t mind spending more, but even the more expensive services don’t work.

Mike

Hi Simon – sorry for the delay and thanks for the response! I’m completely inept. I’d wind up burning the house down or something. I agree re dry cleaning — I just get them laundered and hand finished.