Sartoria Ripense: Visiting Andrea Luparelli in Rome

Monday, July 17th 2023
Share
||- Begin Content -||

By Manish Puri

Whenever an article related to Rome is published on Permanent Style I’ve noticed there’s usually a reader comment or two about Sartoria Ripense – either asking about their style or praising their work. With this in mind, I decided to stop by and meet Ripense’s founder and cutter Andrea Luparelli on a recent visit to the eternal city.

Andrea’s grandfather was a tailor, and so after a brief stint working for an electric company, he chose to pursue his passion, follow in his grandfather’s footsteps, and opened Sartoria Ripense on the Via di Ripetta in 2000. Ripense’s tailored offering is bespoke only – Andrea has toyed with introducing made-to-measure but thinks having one line offers the customer greater clarity and certainty.

On the afternoon I visited, Andrea was busy conducting final fittings for a couple of local clients and boxing finished garments for a business trip to Paris. Ripense have previously held trunk shows in several European and Asian cities, but their current trunk show schedule is Paris only. Nevertheless, he was most accommodating as I quizzed him on the particulars of the house style.

Even though I didn’t commission anything on this occasion, I have included my thoughts and the experiences of two long-time Ripense customers. As always, it would also be great to hear the experiences of readers in the comments section below.

It’s always fascinating (and quite revealing) to see which topics people elect to open a conversation with; in Andrea’s case he instantly leapt onto the notion that the best bespoke tailoring begins with “a beautiful idea”. To illustrate, he showed me one of the jackets he’d recently made for himself – a 6x1 double breasted (modelled above by me).

Andrea had been searching for a cloth that was “both heavy and soft – like chewing gum”. One day, in a local fabric warehouse he spotted a weighty cream linen in a wide herringbone pattern stippled with pale brown.

Unusually the cloth was only available in a narrow width, 70 cm (typically tailoring fabrics are woven at 140cm to 150cm) – the reason being that it had been woven for a manufacturer of dish cloths. Andrea purchased the remaining length anyway, gave it a good wash to soften it up and made a jacket for himself and a few of his customers.

With similar enthusiasm, Andrea showed us a field jacket made from deadstock WWII-era cotton bedding. I got the impression that he found the classic navy two-piece a little prosaic - not that he isn’t happy to make them, there was a whole rail lined up to deliver to Parisian customers - but Andrea is clearly someone that likes exploring the full possibilities of bespoke.

He also said he prefers to use materials that aren’t widely available in ready-to-wear: “I try to use exclusive bunches whenever possible. How can I go to dinner with a client and explain my price when someone at the next table is wearing a jacket in the same cloth for €1000?”. Outside of this, he tends to prefer British mills and merchants: Fox Brothers, the Harrisons group and Bateman & Ogden.

Trying on a few of Andrea’s jackets also helped to assuage a concern I had that the Ripense jacket might be a little close in the body. To be honest, I think this concern was based purely on Andrea’s slimmer casual style which I had wrongly assumed would translate to his tailoring. In reality, Andrea’s jackets were very comfortable to wear and move in.

Andrea led me downstairs, below the shop, to one of Sartoria Ripense’s two workrooms - the other is located about 200 metres away – where four tailors (out of a total staff of seven) were preparing garments.

Later that afternoon I observed the benefits of having the tailors so close to hand: when a customer had a minor trouser issue Andrea summoned a couple of colleagues from the basement and an ad hoc tailoring quorum was assembled to agree on the best approach.

As to Ripense’s house style, Andrea was reluctant to categorise it as Roman or otherwise. “When bespoke tailoring began, there was no Neapolitan style or Roman style. There was only classic style – something that looks good this year and in 10 years.”

To bolster his argument Andrea pointed to some framed Apparel Arts-esque illustrations that were hanging on the wall – the gentleman depicted clearly wearing neither Roman nor Neapolitan tailoring. “Look at his quarters – a little open but not too much. A very similar line to how I cut my jackets. Classic style. Looks good then and looks good now.”

The preferred shoulder style is rollino (aided by a layer of canvas rather than shoulder pads) but spalla camicia is also frequently made. Upon enquiring about a 3-roll-2 jacket Andrea light-heartedly countered: “Why? What do you need the extra buttonhole for?”

While discussing other aspects of style, I found Andrea and I frequently gestured using our thumb and forefinger curved into a C-shape: the universal indicator for a little or un po’.

Lapel width? Moderately wide. Lapel line? A very gentle curve. Button point? Slightly lowered. To my eyes, it’s a well-balanced jacket (with two darts through the front) where no single element dominates.

However, the detail most emphasised to me (and although small, could be considered a Ripense signature) was the seam between lapel and collar. On a Ripense jacket, the point of the lapel is cut at a strict 90-degree angle, but when the top of it meets the collar, it twists sharply up towards the neck (as you can see in image on the left).

The intention here is for the collar piece to be of uniform width as it snakes from one lapel and around the neck to meet the other lapel – an aesthetic Andrea prefers. When the lapel line is straighter (as is the case with the jacket on the right) the collar piece starts slim but must widen to ensure a good fit around the neck (shown by the red markers).

A typical Ripense suit is worn above by regular customer Max Poux (below). I reached out to Max to get a client’s view of the Ripense experience and product, and he was most generous with his time.

“I’ve been a customer of Sartoria Ripense since 2016 when I was introduced to Andrea through a friend. We bonded over cars and watches first, then I asked him to make me a suit and since then he’s been my only tailor and become a very dear friend.

“Previously my bespoke tailors were Terry Haste and Anderson & Sheppard (who I used for many years: 2007-2015). I’ve also commissioned made-to-measure tailoring from Sartoria Partenopea and Orazio Luciano.

“Haste was a little too structured and I couldn’t ride my motorcycle! I found A&S too ‘old school’ with too much drape. For me, Ripense is the best looking fit, a modern style, and the most comfortable I ever had.

“Since 2016, I’ve built up an extensive wardrobe made by Andrea. My favourite pieces are a tuxedo (above) and a Solaro double-breasted - simply because these are garments worn for special occasions and aren’t work related. But the piece I wear most is a blue hopsack blazer jacket (above).

“They put so much work into tailoring the garments that the only changes I usually ask of Andrea are to simplify - not putting buttons in the trousers cuffs, or not necessarily stitching a buttonhole in overcoat lapels.

“What I like most of all about Ripense is Andrea’s eye. He has impeccable taste, brilliantly mixing English elegance with Italian nonchalance! Anything he wears immediately becomes an inspiration and knowing you can trust your tailor’s taste brings real peace of mind for any customer who wants to look his best without having to overthink it.”

I also spoke with Paul Fournier (above) who has been a customer since 2010. “I discovered Sartoria Ripense, in 2010, and it was love at first sight. The craftsmanship exhibited in their garments is unparalleled, a true testament to the art of bespoke tailoring.

“I have commissioned garments from Cifonelli, Camps de Luca, Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Sartoria Dalcuore, Sartoria Panico, WW Chan, Orazio Luciano and many others I would rather forget.

“What sets Sartoria Ripense apart is the ability to understand one's lifestyle, making each piece a reflection of one's individuality.

“My favourite piece from Ripense would be a double-breasted jacket in a 4-ply open weave wool fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico (above). There is an undeniable allure to their double-breasted jackets.

“While my overall experience with Sartoria Ripense has been exceptional, there was a period where I had some concerns regarding their trousers. However, they have since made changes to their trouser maker.

“Unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to try the new trouser offerings, as I currently have all my trousers made by Salvatore Ambrosi, in my eyes the best trouser maker out there. Nonetheless, it is encouraging to see that Sartoria Ripense is attentive to feedback and continuously strives to improve their craft.

“Above all, what sets Sartoria Ripense apart is the unparalleled consistency of their tailoring. I have yet to encounter another tailor in the industry that consistently delivers such exceptional results.

“I am fully aware that I am using an unreasonable number of superlatives. They are deserved.”

I would echo Paul’s enthusiasm for the Ripense double-breasted cut – above you can also see the Solaro suit referenced by Max alongside another customer’s 6x1 jacket – and were I to commission anything from Ripense, it would almost certainly be a double-breasted suit.

The lapel line, with the peak arrowed towards the shoulder crease, seems to strike a pleasing balance between a louche, low-slung vibe and the over-excitable antenna look.

For international customers, Andrea’s English is perfectly serviceable - certainly far superior to my Italian. If you have very specific requirements or want to get into technical details it might prove challenging, but otherwise I wouldn’t worry about a language barrier.

And if words do fail, Andrea isn’t shy of resorting to a bit of theatre to make his point. At one stage in our conversation, he was on his haunches re-enacting the evolution of man: from hunched knuckle-dragger to upright biped, his hangdog eyes running the gamut from bewildered agony to spine-straightened ecstasy.

I think the purpose of this natural history lesson was to demonstrate how subtle shifts in one’s posture can fundamentally alter the balance of a bespoke jacket. But to be honest, I was laughing too hard to fully comprehend.

Sartoria Ripense’s prices start from €3000 for jackets, €4000 for suits and €5000 for coats.

Photos by Olimpia Piccolo @lollipiccolo

Additional images courtesy of @sartoriaripense, @maxpoux and @paulluxsartoria

Manish is @The_Daily_Mirror

Subscribe
Notify of
guest

65 Comments
Oldest
Newest
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Paul F

Lovely article, well written! Thank you for asking for input, I was more than glad to give some. Andrea is a fantastic man and really offers some of the very best tailoring has to offer.

Ajbjasus

Gosh, I wish he came to the UK.
His stuff is spot on!

Lindsay McKee

To AJBJASUS & SIMON
This is another astounding article and another new sartorial kid on the block!
Wish he’d come to UK indeed.
I don’t intend to be disparaging here, but it would be nice to hear of some new tailors from here in the UK again when possible.
Great post!

Paul

Very interesting. I’d love to read a proper review – and I suspect many other readers might be as well

Charles.

That was a nice write up and especially liked the inclusion of client feedback within the article, that should happen more often.

Andreas

“I have commissioned garments from Cifonelli, Camps de Luca, Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Sartoria Dalcuore, Sartoria Panico, WW Chan, Orazio Luciano and many others I would rather forget.”

I don’t know, the pieces shown in this article have a decidedly “#menswear ca. 2014” aftertaste to me, only the tan-colored double monks are missing. I’d rather go with any of the guys above (except Cifonelli).

Andreas

It’s hard to put my finger on it, but I’d say it’s a sort of bland italian overpolished-ness that seems sort of outdated in a post-2020 world. In fact, the clothes remind me of a former work colleague who used to order his entire (and I mean entire) wardrobe from Suit Supply. I know there’s a major difference in fit and quality, but the “vibe”, as the kids say, is the same. Unlined blazer with big lapels, white/blue/pink shirt, cream trousers, pocket square, repeat.

Andrew

A man already draws attention to himself wearing a suit or jacket from a high-end bespoke tailor like Ripense or others featured on PS. Many people who know nothing about tailoring can tell that it is special. I think the risk of tipping the fine balance towards overdoing as Simon mentions is when you add small details that make the outfit too much: bulging pocket squares, a little too short or too tight, unbuttoned shirt cuffs, patch pockets where they aren’t really appropriate, etc. (all things that were very #menswear). i find that there are choices people often make (myself included) when they are starting with bespoke and get carried away with the options and want to show to the world they are wearing a bespoke suit or jacket. I would say some of the photos go in that direction.

Having gone through this phase I am now much more in favour of letting the cut, fabric and fit speak for itself without calling further attention to myself with these kinds of details.

Jonny

Andrew and Andreas, you have some interesting ideas- I think Manish has been a great find for this site- and I know many people who think the same. Why don’t you submit an article on how to dress post-Covid? I agree that much has changed…

Andrew

Hi Jonny, I agree that Manish has been a very positive addition and my comments weren’t in any way a criticism of his writing or his coverage of Ripense. My comments were more of a reaction to a few details that I saw in some of the photos that are not in line with my personal taste.

I am not sure that the readership of PS would like an article written by me as it would bring down the level of journalism several notches and indeed Simon has not asked.

I was profiled here a few years back and gave my thoughts on how I dress now. If you search Andrew I’m sure you’ll find it.

Jonny

Interesting- I love the way you mix textures- Berenson’s ‘tactile element’, v apt for an American(!)

Andrew

Thank you. I’ll have to look that one up as I’m not familiar with it.

Max Alexander

With respect, I don’t understand the comparison to menswear fads on Instagram, much less Suit Supply. I happen to know that Andrea tailors ex-French president Hollande, distinguished architects and international art dealers well over the age of 60, and African business and political leaders whom I have encountered in the shop. These are not exactly IG influencers.

Andrew

Hi Max, I believe the tailor can only guide his client but not make choices for him, and most tailors will not refuse to make a garment if the client chooses a fabric or details he doesn’t agree with.

So the outcome of what the tailor makes is as much a reflection on the client’s skill and experience and taste as it is of the tailor’s. And of course the tailor has nothing to do with how the client wears his clothes after he takes them home, which probably makes an even bigger difference to the overall impression than what tailor the client uses.

It may be that the people you refer to have a different style and make different choices, albeit using the same tailor, than the people in some of the photos that to my eyes look a bit overdone.

Max Alexander

I agree with your thesis. I was only taking issue with Andreas’s implication (perhaps misunderstood by me) that Ripense’s house style might be better suited to Pitti peacocks than “serious” men.
That said, there is a different, more playful attitude about clothes and style down here. Romans like to say they don’t live in Europe, which ends at Milan. (Rome is geographically closer to three African capitals and Athens than it is to Paris.) Naples, even farther from Europe.

Andrew

There is a flashiness of the details in a number of the pictures (4×2 DB solaro with 3 patch pockets and quite noticeable “grinze” at the top of the sleeve head, 6×1 DB suit with what look to be very straight lapels) that reminds me a lot of Cifonelli and is not really to my taste.

I would hazard a guess that this may be what Andreas is referring to.

Max Alexander

I once had a tailor in Sicily make me a DB navy blazer with three patch pockets (although not the “mappina” sleevehead of that Solaro suit), and I regretted it—deciding it was just not my taste.

The only DB jacket I have from Andrea has conventional flap pockets and a more formal rollino shoulder. He has made me some jackets with spalla camicia and the wrinkled mappina sleevehead, but always SB and with more informal fabrics.

Sartoria Ripense

First of all I want to thank Permanent Style and Simon Crompton for giving me the opportunity to talk about my tailoring, through Manish, a very nice guy.
I still remember the first contacts with Simon 15 years ago by email, when I told him my intentions to open the market in England, but then many English customers started following me in Paris and it was easier for me.
I hope with this article to be able to reopen the doors of England to the sartorial culture of Ripense. Thanks again to everyone including my loyal customers and above all friends who have spent beautiful sentences on my behalf.
Really thank you all
Andrea

G

It would be great to have him collaborate on a shopping guide to Rome?

Mike

The comment regarding the 3 roll 2 is interesting, as I’ve often felt the same. It always seems to interfere with the belly.
I wonder if anyone else feels the same.

Andrew

I have tried a few 3 roll 2 jackets and never fell in love with them. I feel like it somehow shortens the lapel, even if the effect is only visual and not actual. I gave up trying with 3 roll 2 four or five years ago, and now have all of my SB jackets done with 2 buttons.

Andrew

I think part of the problem was that neither I nor my dry cleaner at the time know how to iron it properly. The look is nice on more casual jackets in my opinion if the lapel is ironed to roll like it should (for example your Ciardi jackets work, but if I recall correctly not so much the A&S you had done 3 roll 2). Despite best efforts, mine ended up ironed like a normal 2 button and there was no longer much point to the 3 roll 2

Ian F

Forgive me, Simon, if I seem a bit dim but I don’t follow your argument. As I understand it, a 3-roll-2 coat has 3 buttons with the lapel rolling to the second/middle button that is roughly on the waist line and a 2-button coat has 2 buttons (obviously) with the lapel rolling to the first/top button that can also be roughly on the waist line. On both coats, the roll of the lapel is controlled by the way the canvas is constructed and how the lapel is attached to the collar. On many 3-roll-2 coats the top button and buttonhole are hidden behind the roll of the lapel (but yes, I know that others have the redundant buttonhole stranded visibly part way up the break line) so how are these different in appearance from a 2-button that rolls to the same point?
 

Ian F

Thank you. That confirms the point I was trying to make that the roll line isn’t dependent on button position but on canvas construction and collar attachment. If using a soft, probably bias-cut canvas can put a gentle lapel roll between the middle and unused top button on a 3-roll-2, the same effect can be achieved using a soft, probably bias cut canvas to put a gentle lapel roll the same distance above the top button of a 2-button coat without the need for a redundant third button. Or, to put it another way, there is no need to add the third button/buttonhole once the coat is made

Jay H

Yes, I’ve always felt the same way too.

DrBruno

Great article Manish! It was nice bumping into you the day you were there.

Manish

It was a real pleasure to meet you too! I hope you enjoyed the rest of your trip in Italy.

Noel

I found their uniform width collar quite interesting. It’s remarkable how small changes in tailoring can alter the general appearance of a garment.

Ben

Not sure these are the best photos to show off Andrea’s work. Both pictures of Max with the jacket buttoned show significant pulling around the buttoning points. And Pauls likes his jackets way too short imo. The navy DB looks great.

Philip

Paul uses so many superlatives they become almost meaningless. Not necessary for describing the work of an industry legend like Andrea.

Petronio

Very helpful article. The first time I have heard of Sartoria Ripense was about the field jacket with fur interior. It created a lot of curiosity because anytime I pass by the shop in Via di Ripetta is closed and I thought it was a very traditional sartoria. I like very much the creative approach of revisiting and revamping piece of clothing withou loosing a traditional feeling. To be honest from these pictures I am now reconsidering also my Ralph Lauren shirts. As a Roman I am glad of projects like Sartoria Ripense.

John

With all due respect, the tattoos are in bad taste and I would probably be hesitant to endorse his workmanship after seeing them.

Max Alexander

You can’t really see his tattoos well in the photos. I am not a big tattoo guy (have none personally) but his arm tattoos are actually kinda cool.

Andrea.jpg
John II

I think that John was referring to the “Me Too” language. This photo pre-dates that addition.

Sartoria Ripense
a bit prejudicial as a statement, like saying I wouldn't watch a Samsumg TV because it's made in Korea. Why? this is a blog where we discuss techniques and details not private tastes. If you knew how many things I don't like about this twentieth century and yet I manage them without disagreeing. Let alone if a tattoo can discriminate against the art of know-how. For me those tattoos have a meaning!
robert

I ordered a couple shirts from the on-line shop and will do so again. The fit, finish and quality of fabric are excellent. I can vouch for the rtw products. Andrea was quick to respond to my e-mail inquiries removing any uncertainties.

Dario

I find interesting that he says he can’t justify the price to customers if he’s not using exclusive fabric, as the pieces that the cited clients are wearing look really nice. Maybe the average client is not the average reader of this or any other sites where you could learn that the most important part of bespoke is what you don’t see at first glance, and it’s someone who’s more interested in something that clearly says “I dropped 4000 euros on this suit”?

Manish

Hi Dario

My apologies, perhaps I didn’t make this clear enough.

Andrea is referring to cloths/bunches that also get bought up en masse by RTW retailers which means it is possible to get a superficially similar jacket at a much lower price point.

So “exclusive” here just means those cloths that are only accessible through bespoke/MTM houses. I think it’s all part of Andrea’s view that bespoke tailoring should be a unique expression of style, fit and (where possible) cloth.

Thanks so much!

Dario

Thank you Manish for the reply (and the article)!
I understood about the bunches, but I also read it like getting a high end fabric is more a concern of the client than part of the tailor’s view.
If I could afford or justify this price range I would have absolutely no issue paying the price even if I can get something on the same fabric at suitsupply, as I think the difference lies elsewhere. But I am not everyone, of course.

Manish

Hi Dario

Thank you so much!

I completely agree with you, and it wouldn’t be a factor for me. To be honest, I suspect it doesn’t happen that often with customers either, but it was just one of the considerations Andrea keeps in mind when selecting/recommending cloths.

Max Alexander

I was happy to see Andrea, my regular tailor for almost ten years, featured here. It’s easy to credit his good eye and taste; less obvious is his ability to really understand his customers as individuals. With me, he gets that as a writer and (undeserved) television personality in Italy, I rarely wear navy business suits; my style leans toward bold patterns and unusual fabrics, like the jacket he recently made me from a Loro Piana checked seersucker fabric in wool/silk/linen. When it’s time to choose linings, he won’t even bother showing me the “boring” book of solids; he knows I prefer “fantasia” designs like bright paisleys–although so far I’ve managed to resist his suggestions to try a naked-lady lining.

We have also bonded over cars (he has multiple Porsches; I used to own one, years ago) and watches. One day in his shop, where I often just pop in to say hello while out on my bicycle, I was complaining that my vintage Rolex Air King was running slow. “Let’s go,” he said–and off we went in his silver 911, racing through the streets of Rome, to what he assured me was the best Rolex repair shop in the city. He could have just told me the name of the shop, but he left his own work to drive me there. Such moments, and such people, are rare in life.

Who knew he speaks English? I’ll have to tease him about that.

Sartoria Ripense
in the interview done it can be read very clearly that I am a lover of the two buttons and not of the three roll two, because I think it is more natural to drop the closure button of the jacket in its natural point and in doing so I will be able to obtain greater visibility of the shirt and the tie that will have their prominence. As for the style of the stereotypical jackets Andreas talks about, I find that it all depends on who is wearing the garments. the true soul of a suit or jacket depends a lot on the elegance with which they are worn. A pocket square can be elegant or rude depending on the person who wears it as well as a plaid jacket can be worn by a clown or by a super elegant person. There are no tasteful or not tasteful jackets made by well-known tailors, but it is important to interpret what the customer wants to achieve by trying to make it in the best possible way, rich in details and impeccable in workmanship. Each tailor has its own style, I think it is important to marry the style of a tailor and be able to enjoy the workmanship of the garment that has been commissioned. Each of us has his own way of expressing his elegance, for us tailors it is important to make the customer feel in a perfect suit full of hand finishing. this is our task
Burt

So well put! Thank you.

Dario

Hi Simon, I am not sure if this is just me but some of the comments on this article are coming in one line and you have to scroll sideways to read them. I have tried safari on my laptop and chrome on my phone.

Pietro Lo Scocco
Andrea Luparelli as well as a dear friend has been my tailor for 3 years now. giving a synthetic judgment of Sartoria Ripense is extremely difficult because Andrea represents Taste, Class, Professionalism, Elegance, Refinement. The style that Andrea and his Sartoria Ripense represents is a timeless style, free from the fashions and influences of the moment. You can find a jacket, a dress, a coat by Andrea in the wardrobe for all the life. 
Before becoming Andrea's customer, I clearly compared and saw the taste of other high-level tailors. But no one is like him. The style of his jackets and suits is unmistakable. you recognize it right away.
Sartoria Ripense is the best you can choose.
Scott

This was a fascinating article. I find the client comments the most interesting, particularly Max’s comments about A&S being too old school with too much drape. For a knowledgeable client to make a change to a new tailor after a long period with previous ones says a lot about Sartorial Ripense.

Mackie

I believe that the real added value of Andrea and his tailoring is not just the fabrics, the double-breasted suits or the peak lapels. Andrea had the merit of knowing how to use his good Italian taste without giving in to the compromise of easy money. I remember a recent criticism because according to some a tailor could not have luxury cars and today I read that it seems that one cannot even have tattoos. in a world that runs fast and doesn’t care about much else than business it is very rare to participate in a conversation with him that lasted more than two hours in which Andrea did not save a single ounce of his energy
to transfer his enthusiasm and Italian know-how to me, dispensing advice that made those few hours an experience that was worth my entire first trip to the city. Now I can’t go to Europe without planning a stop in Rome where I will know that he will be able to welcome me joyfully with new ideas that make Ripense my best choice.

Kerin O'Connor

It was terrific to see Sartoria Ripense in Permanent Style, as it is the home of wonderful Italian tailoring. Andrea is one of the nicest human beings around. Kind, mannered and intriguing. He’s made me three suits, a sports jacket and the most gorgeous Ulster style coat. All with fabrics that reflected our conversations and how he discussed my needs with me. The process was effortless, and he has a brilliant eye for small changes that follow correctly through to the finish, unlike some tailors that never quite finish the jacket correctly. I’ve also experienced the little tailoring conferences that happen at his Ripense store, where a gathering will focus on a buttonhole intensely.
He is consistently charming and makes all the fittings a joy. The style is unique, a sort of loose formality that is fitted to my body. The shoulders have little padding yet sit correctly; the body is shaped and flattering. I wish he was in London more often, but hope to see him in Rome again! Bravo Andrea!

Laurent

Adding my two cents to the conversation as a long time client of Sartoria Ripense—they came to my attention through Paul Fournier who wrote a piece about Andrea on another site many years ago. I had my first jacket made in 2011 and have never looked back.
Both Paul and Andrea became friends and it is always a pleasure to meet Andrea, whether in Rome or Paris. I usually have him make 1-2 jackets, a few trousers and a suit a year, even though hat rhythm sadly got interrupted during lockdown.
Andreas tailoring style is just right for me. He has his own opinions and very good taste but at the same time he always manages to listen to my—sometimes peculiar—demands and we have a great friendship going on that evolved from working on my commissions.
For example, most of my jackets are half-lined and have unlined sleeves (which he hates), 3 button to 2 roll (we know what he thinks about that ?) and I have already sent him the oddest fabric finds to make into a jacket or suit (not talking about the various PS fabrics that he CMTd for me).
I concur with most comments here that Andrea is quite reliable, travels often to Paris where he built up a good client base and has good taste. We certainly don’t have the same style, but our tastes follow the same ideas and Andrea is never one to push his own agenda.
Laurent

Levantine

I stumbled on Ripense in 2009 or 2010 and have been a steady customer ever since.
Before ripense I have been using various English tailors. I have since moved to a combination of Ripense plus Cifo. I now find English tailors too staid. Just watching an uninspiring square patch pocket on a London tweed jacket makes me gloomy.
Ripense has evolved over the past 14 years. It has moved toward the more classical. That of course depends on the client and Andrea is very good in assisting the client in finding his style. Overall his trajectory is continuously toward more classicism.
He is a man of style and dresses both formally and informally equally well. Contrary to most tailors (who are slobs) he is a bit of a dandy. I thinks that’s good as he inspires the client to try new things.
His staff is great: a mix of ukrainian, Russian and Japanese craftsmen producing top-knotch finished products.
the greatest asset is the warm and ebullient character of Andrea.
Andrea, a Ripense jacket and a Roman getaway is a recipe to briefley escape life’s troubles.