By Manish Puri
Some years back, I was having a drink with my partner, Gemma, and a friend, Nathan, who shared my interest in clothes. Over a few pints and packets of bacon fries we delved deep into matters political and philosophical, before turning to the personal, and nothing is more personal than style.
"What item of clothing do you think a woman notices first about a guy?" asked Nathan.
"Their coat," Gemma replied, without hesitation.
Nathan and I were both surprised. Lad's mags had been insisting for years that women are constantly scanning men's feet and judging them by their choice of shoes - it was almost as if the magazines didn't know what they were talking about!
The more we pondered it, the more sense it made. Many guys (and this was true of me for a time) have a 'one-and-done' policy when it comes to outerwear, the whole of autumn/winter to be spent wearing the same coat regardless of the occasion. And, if that's the case, the coat you've chosen to wear to work, on a date, and for a night out can speak volumes.
If that actually is the case (and I'm breaking out in a cold sweat just thinking about returning to having only one coat), is there a better candidate than a double-breasted overcoat? I don't think there is, and I know Simon agrees, going so far as to say the double-breasted overcoat might be his favourite piece of menswear.
And so, this guide has been written to look at some of the best RTW options in navy - arguably the most versatile colour. I've focused on coats that I've been able to try firsthand in London - and my, how lucky us Londoners are to have access to so many excellent options within a mile of each other. However, I know there are many more choices online, and so, as always, the comments section is open for your best recommendations.
The Cordings polo coat is undoubtedly the workhorse option in this guide. Hewn from a robust Yorkshire wool (at 26oz the heaviest in the list) it should easily shrug off being balled up in the corner of a pub or getting snagged by a branch on a country walk. It doesn’t feel like the most luxurious cloth, but then again, the cashmere option in this guide is five times as expensive.
I tried the UK38 and it was a comfortable fit, even over the chunky Shetland roll-neck I was sporting at the time. The coat was longer than a Bollywood movie, finishing in the middle of my shins; an unapologetic length for a classic coat and the longest in the guide too.
The shoulders were slightly padded, but I’m pleased to report that they didn’t appear as prominent or as stiff as on Cordings’ website (below).
The only quibbles I had were on the design side. For example, I found the coat’s matte, textured exterior jarred with the satin burgundy lining, which is emblazoned all over with the Cordings crest.
Or how about the patch-flap breast pocket, which didn’t appear to be wide enough to foppishly stuff a nice pair of gloves into - as is de rigueur with a polo coat. (I know, I can’t believe there isn’t a support group for poor tortured souls like me either).
But these points aside, I would recommend this coat to anybody that’s looking for a more classic style and length, and a more economical proposition.
Also available in chestnut
I’ve been really impressed with the collections released by New & Lingwood of late. (I’m also annoyed I didn’t give them a shoutout in my article on pink, because I’ve not seen a brand use the colour so well - whether it’s pyjamas, gowns or knitwear).
Their pieces are full of character, or, in the words of the shop assistant who helped me, “charisma” (wind your neck in Stefan, I’ll do the writing). Their double-breasted coat is no exception with two standout elements.
The first is the use of a gently textured cloth made of 85% wool and 15% silk, the latter injecting a little lustre and elegance to the coat. As a result, the cloth is marginally lighter than the other coats in this guide - still plenty snuggly, but it might require bolstering with chunky knitwear in a cold snap.
The second element is the shorter, Buddha-belly lapels which evoke the feel of an old naval coat (although perhaps that idea has been implanted in my mind by the brand’s styling with a white roll neck - above). The shorter lapels (with a jigger button situated near the bottom of the ribs) affords the skirt of the coat a generous drop; it might look incongruous with low to mid-rise trousers, but I found it wonderfully expressive.
I tried a size 40 and that fit well in the shoulders, had room for layers and finished at my platonic ideal of coat length - a couple of inches below the knees. Generally, as long as the basic fit of a RTW overcoat is good, I don’t tend to fuss too much with alterations. However with its stylised lapel, darted waist and lighter cloth, I’d make an exception for the New & Lingwood coat to preserve the sharpness of the cut.
In my case, the shape through the waist was ever-so-gently interrupted by a few ripples caused by excess cloth in the back. Stefan was as quick with the pins as he was with the adjectives and restored the intended line, which could subsequently be altered by their in-house tailor.
The Anglo-Italian martingala coat has been a constant since the business was founded. It was also one of my first serious menswear purchases, having previously bought overcoats at High Street retailers such as River Island, Zara and (this must have been in another multiverse) G-Star.
I remember browsing Anglo-Italian’s earliest range of products (whilst trying very discreetly to check price tags before getting too excited or attached to anything) when Jake Grantham (the founder) invited me to don their new overcoat.
The lining of the sleeve may as well have had a card swipe machine stitched into it, because as soon as I put my arm through I was sold. The substantial 25oz wool weighed heavy on my shoulders, but, at the same time, propped me up straight and proud. It was one of those garments that wasn’t just pleasurable to wear, but revealed a mode of dressing that I’d been grasping at with limited success for a while.
And so, it’s with a heavy heart that I inform you dear reader that (after several winters of denial) I recently sold the coat to a fellow (slimmer) enthusiast. Alas, amongst the martingala’s many properties preventing weight gain wasn’t one of them, and I had to accept that the IT46 was simply too small for me and I would never again wear it with the intended repose.
Were I to get a replacement, an IT 48 would do nicely. Indeed, in the intervening years, the only thing that has changed is my body, the coat remains as it was: patch flap pockets, turnback cuffs and a more discreet lapel than anything offered by the other brands in this guide.
However, it was the details of the back of the coat which originally fired my imagination, as I’d never seen them on a High Street coat before: an action back to allow ease in motion, a buttoned rear vent, and a half-buttoned-belt to nip the waist just so.
On reflection, perhaps I was too hasty and should have enquired if Anglo-Italian would consider a part-exchange?
Also available in mid-grey and charcoal
The Edward Sexton top coat is a relatively new addition to their range of RTW coats and is patterned after a coat that Edward himself used to wear (below).
It is, as with much of the Sexton range, a statement piece: full-bodied lapels swelling through the chest and demanding attention be paid to the strong, roped shoulder. And, as with many statements, they’re best made when you know exactly what it is you want to say.
In other words, if you're tentatively building a more tailored wardrobe (in the manner that I was when I purchased my Anglo-Italian coat) the Sexton top coat may just overwhelm the rest of your wardrobe. For everyone else, it’s a superb option - steeped in Savile Row history - at a good price.
I tried the UK 40, the first time I’ve ever put on a Sexton garment, and was jolted by a frisson of excitement. I felt the beginnings of a smirk developing on my face, an unintended consequence of knowing you look damn good.
The coat was perfect through the shoulders, but, owing to the thick folds from an overly long jumper and the thick folds from an overly long lunch, it was too tight through the waist and seat when buttoned.
The coat has a few hallmarks of Savile Row tailoring: hand-made buttonholes, pick-stitching and generous inlays. And so, I could easily have let out the waist by an inch or two to allow me to button the coat more freely. However, the advice from Dominic (Edward Sexton’s Creative Director) was to size up to the 42 and bring the waist in to preserve the Sexton hourglass silhouette.
Of all the coats I tried, the Thom Sweeney model was the one I would have walked out with on the spot. (An act I may have contemplated had there not been a staff of pesky, youthful assistants who looked like they could run quite fast).
This is partly because of the fit - the IT48 was absolutely dead on for me in the shoulders, sleeves (which are usually a shade long) and waist (which is usually a smidge tight).
The only note of caution I’d sound is the length, which is gently flirting with being on the shorter side - fine if you’re below six foot (and at the age of 43 I’ve recently accepted that I’m unlikely to grow beyond that threshold), but, any taller and you might risk exposing the knee (and you wouldn’t want to set tongues wagging in the local Parish, would you?).
But my main reason for favouring this coat was the composition. Whilst the other options in this guide are predominantly fashioned from wool (a material that’s well represented in my coat wardrobe) the Thom Sweeney offering is made from 100% Loro Piana cashmere (a material that’s tragically less well represented).
And so, I could easily envisage a prime, central hook of my coat rail being cleared to make room for the Thom Sweeney coat. However, if you’re in the market for a one-off coat purchase to be worn regularly and without a care then I’d suggest a hardier and cheaper wool (such as those used by Cordings or Anglo-Italian) might be a better choice for you.
Also available in ash oak
Other options
The Anthology, in collaboration with Permanent Style, have developed a terrific polo coat. My only reason for not featuring it in the main body of the guide is because there’s currently no RTW navy option - it’s only available in herringbone donegal tweed ($1950) and camelhair ($2050).
However, customers can commission a navy polo coat via MTO, and, having seen it on a couple of friends (including The Anthology co-founder, Buzz - above), I would wholeheartedly recommend it.
One of the pleasures of working on these guides is that it gives me an excuse to pop into shops that I haven't visited before. And so, I recently found myself in the Cifonelli showroom on Clifford Street for the very first time. The range, as you’d expect, uses some of the most luxurious fabrics in the world - it’s certainly not cheap, but, when compared to some of the luxury brands housed on nearby Bond Street, it suddenly appears quite reasonable.
Their double-breasted coat (€3,600) is a good option for anyone looking for a more luxurious piece. The coat is made from a very soft, thick, spongey, double-faced wool (which you can see as it’s unlined) and has some hand-sewn details like the milanese buttonhole.
As is characteristic of Cifonelli, the coat does fit quite close to the body and high in the armhole, so I found sizing up to IT 52 offered the best fit. If you too find yourself with any fit issues, it’s worth noting that in-store alterations are included in the price.
When I visited the Ralph Lauren store in London they’d sold out of their navy polo coats (£1899) and had just a few large sizes in camelhair left.
You might have more luck in your local store but I would expect a similar model (made from a double-faced melton wool) to be available most Autum/Winters.
And finally, a more budget-friendly polo coat option (£795) is also available from John Simons - made in Florence from melton wool.
My warmest thanks to Matthew Coles, Mila Dastugue and Nina Penlington for their help with this guide.
Manish is @the_daily_mirror on Instagram
