Where to buy a RTW double-breasted navy overcoat

Wednesday, December 20th 2023
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By Manish Puri

Some years back, I was having a drink with my partner, Gemma, and a friend, Nathan, who shared my interest in clothes. Over a few pints and packets of bacon fries we delved deep into matters political and philosophical, before turning to the personal, and nothing is more personal than style.

"What item of clothing do you think a woman notices first about a guy?" asked Nathan.

"Their coat," Gemma replied, without hesitation.

Nathan and I were both surprised. Lad's mags had been insisting for years that women are constantly scanning men's feet and judging them by their choice of shoes - it was almost as if the magazines didn't know what they were talking about!

The more we pondered it, the more sense it made. Many guys (and this was true of me for a time) have a 'one-and-done' policy when it comes to outerwear, the whole of autumn/winter to be spent wearing the same coat regardless of the occasion. And, if that's the case, the coat you've chosen to wear to work, on a date, and for a night out can speak volumes.

If that actually is the case (and I'm breaking out in a cold sweat just thinking about returning to having only one coat), is there a better candidate than a double-breasted overcoat? I don't think there is, and I know Simon agrees, going so far as to say the double-breasted overcoat might be his favourite piece of menswear.

And so, this guide has been written to look at some of the best RTW options in navy - arguably the most versatile colour. I've focused on coats that I've been able to try firsthand in London - and my, how lucky us Londoners are to have access to so many excellent options within a mile of each other. However, I know there are many more choices online, and so, as always, the comments section is open for your best recommendations.

Cordings (£795)

The Cordings polo coat is undoubtedly the workhorse option in this guide. Hewn from a robust Yorkshire wool (at 26oz the heaviest in the list) it should easily shrug off being balled up in the corner of a pub or getting snagged by a branch on a country walk. It doesn’t feel like the most luxurious cloth, but then again, the cashmere option in this guide is five times as expensive.

I tried the UK38 and it was a comfortable fit, even over the chunky Shetland roll-neck I was sporting at the time. The coat was longer than a Bollywood movie, finishing in the middle of my shins; an unapologetic length for a classic coat and the longest in the guide too.

The shoulders were slightly padded, but I’m pleased to report that they didn’t appear as prominent or as stiff as on Cordings’ website (below).

The only quibbles I had were on the design side. For example, I found the coat’s matte, textured exterior jarred with the satin burgundy lining, which is emblazoned all over with the Cordings crest. 

Or how about the patch-flap breast pocket, which didn’t appear to be wide enough to foppishly stuff a nice pair of gloves into - as is de rigueur with a polo coat. (I know, I can’t believe there isn’t a support group for poor tortured souls like me either).

But these points aside, I would recommend this coat to anybody that’s looking for a more classic style and length, and a more economical proposition. 

Also available in chestnut

New & Lingwood (£1250)

I’ve been really impressed with the collections released by New & Lingwood of late. (I’m also annoyed I didn’t give them a shoutout in my article on pink, because I’ve not seen a brand use the colour so well - whether it’s pyjamas, gowns or knitwear). 

Their pieces are full of character, or, in the words of the shop assistant who helped me, “charisma” (wind your neck in Stefan, I’ll do the writing). Their double-breasted coat is no exception with two standout elements.

The first is the use of a gently textured cloth made of 85% wool and 15% silk, the latter injecting a little lustre and elegance to the coat. As a result, the cloth is marginally lighter than the other coats in this guide - still plenty snuggly, but it might require bolstering with chunky knitwear in a cold snap.

The second element is the shorter, Buddha-belly lapels which evoke the feel of an old naval coat (although perhaps that idea has been implanted in my mind by the brand’s styling with a white roll neck - above). The shorter lapels (with a jigger button situated near the bottom of the ribs) affords the skirt of the coat a generous drop; it might look incongruous with low to mid-rise trousers, but I found it wonderfully expressive.

I tried a size 40 and that fit well in the shoulders, had room for layers and finished at my platonic ideal of coat length - a couple of inches below the knees. Generally, as long as the basic fit of a RTW overcoat is good, I don’t tend to fuss too much with alterations. However with its stylised lapel, darted waist and lighter cloth, I’d make an exception for the New & Lingwood coat to preserve the sharpness of the cut.

In my case, the shape through the waist was ever-so-gently interrupted by a few ripples caused by excess cloth in the back. Stefan was as quick with the pins as he was with the adjectives and restored the intended line, which could subsequently be altered by their in-house tailor.

Anglo-Italian (£1550)

The Anglo-Italian martingala coat has been a constant since the business was founded. It was also one of my first serious menswear purchases, having previously bought overcoats at High Street retailers such as River Island, Zara and (this must have been in another multiverse) G-Star.

I remember browsing Anglo-Italian’s earliest range of products (whilst trying very discreetly to check price tags before getting too excited or attached to anything) when Jake Grantham (the founder) invited me to don their new overcoat.

The lining of the sleeve may as well have had a card swipe machine stitched into it, because as soon as I put my arm through I was sold. The substantial 25oz wool weighed heavy on my shoulders, but, at the same time, propped me up straight and proud. It was one of those garments that wasn’t just pleasurable to wear, but revealed a mode of dressing that I’d been grasping at with limited success for a while.

And so, it’s with a heavy heart that I inform you dear reader that (after several winters of denial) I recently sold the coat to a fellow (slimmer) enthusiast. Alas, amongst the martingala’s many properties preventing weight gain wasn’t one of them, and I had to accept that the IT46 was simply too small for me and I would never again wear it with the intended repose.

Were I to get a replacement, an IT 48 would do nicely. Indeed, in the intervening years, the only thing that has changed is my body, the coat remains as it was: patch flap pockets, turnback cuffs and a more discreet lapel than anything offered by the other brands in this guide.

However, it was the details of the back of the coat which originally fired my imagination, as I’d never seen them on a High Street coat before: an action back to allow ease in motion, a buttoned rear vent, and a half-buttoned-belt to nip the waist just so. 

On reflection, perhaps I was too hasty and should have enquired if Anglo-Italian would consider a part-exchange?

Also available in mid-grey and charcoal

Edward Sexton (£1,750)

The Edward Sexton top coat is a relatively new addition to their range of RTW coats and is patterned after a coat that Edward himself used to wear (below).

It is, as with much of the Sexton range, a statement piece: full-bodied lapels swelling through the chest and demanding attention be paid to the strong, roped shoulder. And, as with many statements, they’re best made when you know exactly what it is you want to say. 

In other words, if you're tentatively building a more tailored wardrobe (in the manner that I was when I purchased my Anglo-Italian coat) the Sexton top coat may just overwhelm the rest of your wardrobe. For everyone else, it’s a superb option - steeped in Savile Row history - at a good price.

I tried the UK 40, the first time I’ve ever put on a Sexton garment, and was jolted by a frisson of excitement. I felt the beginnings of a smirk developing on my face, an unintended consequence of knowing you look damn good.  

The coat was perfect through the shoulders, but, owing to the thick folds from an overly long jumper and the thick folds from an overly long lunch, it was too tight through the waist and seat when buttoned. 

The coat has a few hallmarks of Savile Row tailoring: hand-made buttonholes, pick-stitching and generous inlays. And so, I could easily have let out the waist by an inch or two to allow me to button the coat more freely. However, the advice from Dominic (Edward Sexton’s Creative Director) was to size up to the 42 and bring the waist in to preserve the Sexton hourglass silhouette.

Thom Sweeney (£3,995)

Of all the coats I tried, the Thom Sweeney model was the one I would have walked out with on the spot. (An act I may have contemplated had there not been a staff of pesky, youthful assistants who looked like they could run quite fast).

This is partly because of the fit - the IT48 was absolutely dead on for me in the shoulders, sleeves (which are usually a shade long) and waist (which is usually a smidge tight). 

The only note of caution I’d sound is the length, which is gently flirting with being on the shorter side - fine if you’re below six foot (and at the age of 43 I’ve recently accepted that I’m unlikely to grow beyond that threshold), but, any taller and you might risk exposing the knee (and you wouldn’t want to set tongues wagging in the local Parish, would you?).

But my main reason for favouring this coat was the composition. Whilst the other options in this guide are predominantly fashioned from wool (a material that’s well represented in my coat wardrobe) the Thom Sweeney offering is made from 100% Loro Piana cashmere (a material that’s tragically less well represented).

And so, I could easily envisage a prime, central hook of my coat rail being cleared to make room for the Thom Sweeney coat. However, if you’re in the market for a one-off coat purchase to be worn regularly and without a care then I’d suggest a hardier and cheaper wool (such as those used by Cordings or Anglo-Italian) might be a better choice for you.

Also available in ash oak

Other options

The Anthology, in collaboration with Permanent Style, have developed a terrific polo coat. My only reason for not featuring it in the main body of the guide is because there’s currently no RTW navy option - it’s only available in herringbone donegal tweed ($1950) and camelhair ($2050).

However, customers can commission a navy polo coat via MTO, and, having seen it on a couple of friends (including The Anthology co-founder, Buzz - above), I would wholeheartedly recommend it.

One of the pleasures of working on these guides is that it gives me an excuse to pop into shops that I haven't visited before. And so, I recently found myself in the Cifonelli showroom on Clifford Street for the very first time. The range, as you’d expect, uses some of the most luxurious fabrics in the world - it’s certainly not cheap, but, when compared to some of the luxury brands housed on nearby Bond Street, it suddenly appears quite reasonable. 

Their double-breasted coat (€3,600) is a good option for anyone looking for a more luxurious piece. The coat is made from a very soft, thick, spongey, double-faced wool (which you can see as it’s unlined) and has some hand-sewn details like the milanese buttonhole. 

As is characteristic of Cifonelli, the coat does fit quite close to the body and high in the armhole, so I found sizing up to IT 52 offered the best fit. If you too find yourself with any fit issues, it’s worth noting that in-store alterations are included in the price.

When I visited the Ralph Lauren store in London they’d sold out of their navy polo coats (£1899) and had just a few large sizes in camelhair left. 

You might have more luck in your local store but I would expect a similar model (made from a double-faced melton wool) to be available most Autum/Winters.

And finally, a more budget-friendly polo coat option (£795) is also available from John Simons - made in Florence from melton wool.

My warmest thanks to Matthew Coles, Mila Dastugue and Nina Penlington for their help with this guide.

Manish is @the_daily_mirror on Instagram

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Ian Skelly

Bacon Fries? what , had they sold out of Scampi Fries then?

Eric Twardzik

I was introduced to scampi fries on a trip to Scotland last spring. It may be the one junk food I sadly can’t locate in America.

Dario

That Sexton coat looks amazing… If only it was as long as the great coat they sell…

Manish

Research selfies…

Manish

Cordings UK38

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Manish

New & Lingwood UK40

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Lax

This is me in a 42 , deciding between this and the one navy MTO from Anthology. Although Anthology are visiting in Feb 24 and then however long the MTO process takes , so probably won’t be ready for this winter.

From a style perspective, which one would be your preference?

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IJC

Certainly the Anthology, in my opinion. Better styling overall.

Manish

Thom Sweeney UK38

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Kevin

This looks the best.

Manish

Edward Sexton UK40

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Mike

Hi Manish,
How do you find the DB here from Sexton compares to the Great Coat in terms of versatility? I’ve been going band forth.
I think the Great Coat is obviously more dramatic, and the regular DB here seems (also dramatic) but more straightforward, if not quite versatile. It seems smarter with the lack of gauntlet cuffs and clean/beltless back.

Lindsay McKee

Very interesting article….but what became of Crombie?

Aaron

They seem to be forever teasing a return on Instagram! They were the first RTW coats that I came across that seemed to be of a decent quality, if I’d been earning slightly more then I’m sure I’d have bought one. Less sure about the red lining.

Kent

Crombie closed down several years ago. I also miss the Chester Barrie, Aquascutum, Austin Reed and Simpson’s shops that are long gone. RTW tailoring in Gieves & Hawkes and Turnbull & Asser declined over the last decade or so. There was a much better choice of RTW in the nineties and noughties.

Lindsay McKee

I agree.
See to see those menswear icons gone.

Oliver Price

This is pedantic I know, but don’t you mean the Cordings coat is the workhorse option rather than the workhouse option (conjures up images of Dickensian street urchins)?

Manish

Not pedantic in the slightest – thank you!

Will

Rubinacci has some great coats as well. They have a wonderful shop on Mount St. Lots of choice, but in the Cifonelli price range.

Kent

It’s now very difficult for Britons who don’t live in London to find 100% wool overcoats on their local High Street. Nearly everyone, men and women, young and old, wears ugly nylon puffer jackets or coats. The rest tend to wear waxed Barbours or peacoats.

I agree with Manish’s comments on Cording’s polo coat. It’s surprising that Ede & Ravenscroft ‘s Halesworth in Loro Piana cloth (£895) and Oliver Brown’s heavy wool DB (£895) are not on his list Huntsman’s unstructured cashmere Ulster (£3,400) with gauntlet cuffs is very tempting for those with deep pockets.

Markus

I was just about to write, and what about the Italian manufacturers Canali, Caruso and Corneliani, who have beautiful navy overcoats. But they are all single-breasted.
Boglioli, De Petrillo and, on the pricey side, Stile Latino and Cesare Attolini have beautiful double breasted navy overcoats.

Matt

I’m pretty sure the Cifonelli featured here would be made by Caruso. Perhaps the Thom Sweeney too, although I’ve not actually seen the label in TS tailoring.

Simon Crompton

Thanks Matt, though as ever that doesn’t necessarily that much about the quality. Some things, yes, but a long way from everything. Brands make to their own specifications

Anonymous

Manish, Mason and Sons have just released a navy overcoat – in homage to the most famous overcoat in cinema history…. It looks superb.So too they’ve added another navy overcoat and a car coat. Any thoughts re these? They look impressive. Also re their ready to wear or made to order suit range – Manish or Simon what do you make of their quality and pricing? I think they may be Italian made.They seem to have a strong following and very positive reviews.

David

Great read, the Cordings and Sexton coats look very attractive to my eye.

Any examples of navy overcoats in a different fabric design? There are many good herringbone, donegal tweed…. Fabrics out there that make a great navy DB overcoat. Cover the bases for office wear and also cross over into the smart end of casual wear.

CJ

As an ex-retail employee of Crombie (during my university days) I am still slightly saddened/frustrated that the brand didn’t find a hold in menswear. Don’t get me wrong the majority of the seasonal collections were old-fashioned and increasingly poor quality but the initial starting point was actually rather good.

SamS

I keep wanting a sexton greatcoat – bespoke is out of my league, but rtw could be doable. I was turned off the idea of ordering it online after the person (or ai) answered my question about if it could be let out with “the sizes are listed on the website”…

Eric Twardzik

A very enjoyable piece Manish, thank you. I know that Drake’s has a navy double-breasted out this season; I’m guessing it may have arrived in stores after you’d written the story. Have you had any experience with it since? Would be interested in hearing your take.

Petronio

To be less London-centric: in Milan Bardelli and Al Bazaar have very good RTW Ulster coats

Rob P.

Especially for folks in North America on a less generous budget, Spier and Mackay never disappoints. Two standouts this season are their Ulster Coat (below) and, for the more rakishly inclined, a belted version.

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Simon Crompton

Thanks Rob. To chip in with my two cents, I was a little unsure about the material for that Ulster, which feels a little casual for the style (a reader had asked about it previously). The belted version is a little different in style from the set Manish looked at (which necessarily had to be quite specific)

Peter K

Canadian society is increasingly informal but I agree that the twill cloth is a bit odd for the style of coat. I would prefer a smoother cloth myself.

Simon Crompton

Could be great in a more casual design, like a balmacaan maybe

m

What do you think about this single breasted one from Private White? It has visually similar fabric but different more relaxed design. I’m not so sure about self fabric sash of this medium-heavyweight cloth though, seems it could be pretty stiff considering the weight and spongy nature of the fabric. Do you think it works?

https://www.privatewhitevc.com/products/the-deluxe-belted-overcoat-navy-twill?variant=40770337964093

Simon Crompton

Personally no, I don’t think the belt works so well there, also be good if it was longer (though that depends on your height as well of course)

Mike

A cheaper, but good option

Spier and mackay
https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/navy-heavy-twill—ulster-coat-8167-ulst

Cavour also sells two navy DB coats

Simon Crompton

Thanks Mike – mentioned above in the comments

Albert

Very interesting article and some great brands mentioned. I live in Italy and I have often bought from Pini Parma for many RTW items such as trousers and knitware. I recently saw in the Milan store their DB Polo Coat and was impressed with it.
https://www.piniparma.com/products/blue-polo-coat-made-in-italy

Simon Crompton

Thanks Albert – I’m sure Manish would join me in saying that’s too short for the kind of style we’d prefer, but nice otherwise

JB

A navy db coat was on my list this fall/winter – but then the english tweed overcoat was released. Alas, I’ve yet to own one. I’m going back and forth on wheter a peak lapel or ulster lapel style would be more versatile. The latter would likely go with more things, and can be popped (not sure how I feel a bout a classic peak lapel with popped collar, it’ very much depends on how it’s cut, I think.
But regardless, I agree it’s probably the perfect coat. Looks equally good with a suit and well worn jeans and a jumper.

Gab

PWVC made an excellent one last year or the year before…

Edward

Geat guide! I want to mention what about Private White?

Simon Crompton

There’s only their great coat, I think, which is a slightly more unusual style, plus gold buttons etc. Not the tailored classic overcoat we’re focusing on

QJ

I really enjoy this overcoat by Frank Leder I got in 2021. I saw Simon wearing this in a 2019 post of his about his no man walks alone review, and later saw it featured in yet another flattering Peter Zottolo post.

I emailed Frank Leder intending to get the same coat in navy but after some back and forth settled for the original colour, made to measurements I sent over.
One of my favourite details about this coat is that the lapels are so bold, yet taper seamlessly to join the front of the coat all the way to the hem in one curved line, in contrast to other double overcoats which have a very abrupt end to the inferior aspect of the lapel.
Of course this is personal preference, and I suppose does make it more casual. The coat itself fits quite tight and has high armhole anyway, making it more suitable for knitwear underneath rather than a suit.
I’m not sure if Frank Leder still do these, but it’s worth emailing to ask.

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SM

I am interested in the same coat, RTW by Nomanwalksalone. Would you happen to know the weight of the fabric? I like the idea of navy, I’m going to email them to enquire if MTM is still available.

QJ

I actually would be pretty keen to find out too. I do not know the exact weight but yes I would recommend you email them (and perhaps update me). I recently saw this coat again in NMWA as part of their 10 year anniversary, but not in Navy.
The only things I would change with mine, are the addition of a half belt, vents at the back and the addition of a chain in the inner collar to hang the coat by.

John

what do you think of this style of double breast overcoat from The Armoury?

https://www.thearmoury.com/collections/coats-and-jackets/wool-birdseye-overcoat?variant=40395348869191

John

Do you think a navy wool twill fabric (wool/cashmere) can work and be versatile?
Thanks, and happy Holidays!

Simon Crompton

I would say so John, yes

John

What do you think of wearing a coat with twill pattern and a jacket of similar twill pattern? What if it was herringbone coat over a herringbone jacket?
Thanks!

Simon Crompton

I think it only matters if the patterns are strong enough that you would notice them being that similar, without being close.

That can happen with strong herringbones, but it’s unlikely to with a twill

Robert

Perhaps Gemma feels that way about coats. But I think far more women notice shoes and watches first. And hands.

Phil

Perhaps one reason for the reference to shoes rather than coats might be that shoes are usually worn for longer and more commonly than coats.
But it is interesting to consider what others notice about us and differences in perception. For example unless someone is interested in watches themselves are they noticing that you’re wearing a well-known brand, that it’s gold, perhaps just very big, etc.? I think we can’t control which particular element others are drawn too, but ideally nothing should be too incongruent so it doesn’t undermine the whole.

SamS

I think shoes and watches have lost a lot of their signalling power.

I honestly think watches have mostly been about impressing other men. My experience is that very few women care much about watches beyond aesthetics – perhaps with the exception of some petite bourgeois snobbs who judge people by their income levels, or influencer wannabees who care only about the right brands. At any rate, a lot of people don’t wear a watch at all today, and many who do wear utilitarian smart watches, so while wearing a watch at all can say something about you, there’s less of a “social language” about watches today. 50 years ago, you could tell a lot about someone by the watch they wore. Today, not so much.

Shoes use to be a pretty good way of identifying what kind of work a person does, and how they view themselves (or wish to be viewed). Oxfords, loafers or work boots? Spotless, well-worn but taken care of, or falling appart? But today, sneakers dominate, and most high street “leather” shoes can’t be maintained even if you try. With the exception of some sub cultures (where the right kind of shoes can be a very strong statement), looking at peoples feet is usually not saying too much about them. Even investment bankers wear dirty sneakers at work today.

Overcoats have a great visual impact, there are a lot of models to chose from, and more social acceptance in picking a different model. Wearing a suit and black oxfords will get you comments in a business casual workplace, but you can get away with wearing a navy overcoat or a duffel when your colleagues wear puffer jackets. So Gemma might be on to something- today an overcoat is one of the few pieces of clothing where a man can make a choice to wear the full spectrum from tailored to grungy – it’s a fairly good first thing to look at.

I do agree with you about hands, but hands are smaller (and during the season when you wear overcoats, usually hidden away in pockets or gloves), so you need to get a lot closer to a person to observe them.

stephan

Manush or Simon, do you have any experience with the Rubinachi DB overcoat and how it compares to the ones featured here? Thanks! https://marianorubinacci.com/en/product/blue-cashmere-overcoat-DP-A2662

Norman

Cordings looks a bit too boxy for my liking. I’d personally go with S&M Ulster. Casual clothe makes it more universal!

Michael

The Anthology Polo in Navy does look class (love the lapels). I think the colour suits the pockets as well (they blend in a touch more), but the tweed version is amazing! It does feel like there’s been a more recent cycle of the “contrast” tweed herringbone over the last few years, but still looks very versatile.

Ankit

M, I urge you to try: https://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/outerwear/products/navy-warrington-coat-89881
Soft, classic and SO beautiful on the eye!
AM

m

Thank you Ankit for suggestion. That’s an elegant coat for sure but fortunately I already own couple of smart coats in navy and charcoal that would make it redundant in my wardrobe. I considered the Private White one because it was a little more relaxed in material and design, easy to just grab and go to gym for example regardless of what you wear underneath.

Aggro

Disagree

DB coats are more trouble than they are worth

(same with robe coats with belts)

The excess material flapping around means they only look good buttoned up.
When not buttoned up it just looks inelegant/sloppy

What is it about the Edward Sexton DB coat that makes it look decent unbuttoned (unlike the others)?

Simon Crompton

I personally disagree, I think a DB can look very elegant unbuttoned. Put your hands in the pockets, wear a scarf with it

Michael

for what it’s worth I think that overcoat fashion will move back to single breasted, but DB is king. The natural ‘setting’ when buttoned and the drape when open is inherently dramatic / stylish in a way that isn’t too much. Each to there own but long live the DB!

Markus

I wonder how common a double-breasted coat is in London. Here in Vienna, despite the much colder temperatures, it’s extremely uncommon, at least in my perception

Simon Crompton

They’re certainly not common, though perhaps more so than Vienna. It can be a nice smart look and even a casual one if dressed down well too

SamS

Personally, I’m starting to think DB actually looks BETTER unbuttoned. The drape, the flair of wearing something highly formal in an informal way. Goes especially for coats, but even my DB jackets are mostly worn unbuttoned these days.

Simon Crompton

Yes I think it can look great – it’s about the style you want more than one being better or worse. Nice if you do like wearing them both ways too, as it does mean you get different options in terms of warmth. If you like it more casual, maybe pop the collar when you wear it buttoned

Rups

Manish, what are the construction methods used in all these coats? Do any have a free floating canvass like in a bespoke coat or are they fused? Does it make as much difference in a coat as in a tailored bespoke jacket? Some of the price of these I’d expect them to be basically doing a lot of bespoke type manufacturing, & handwork, otherwise why that kind of cost? I mean 4k for a Tom Sweeney, or Cifonelli RTW coat?

Simon Crompton

Manish is travelling at the moment but will reply to everyone later.

In general we pick pieces for this kind of article that have around the same level of construction. For these coats that means a full floating canvas and the kind of handwork you should expect on good RTW tailoring – hand-attached collar, hand sewn armholes. Other points like hand-sewn buttonholes Manish usually notes separately.

It makes less of a difference than in a jacket, but you’d still want those kind of things in a good tailored overcoat, I think. Some of the cheaper brands mentioned in comments etc won’t have that.

Thom Sweeney or Cifonelli are not made in a different way. Extra costs would be largely the materials

Rups

Ok noted thanks Simon) Im pleasantly surprised that they have that they have a full floating canvass & the more important handwork in a coat) Very precient article actually as Im in the market for a good polo coat) The Anthology & AI ones look particularly appealing but will give them a try on & see how they look! Hoping Anthology bring back the navy Polo soon.

Simon Crompton

Yes, and note that a more casual coat (like our Donegal with Private White) won’t have that full canvas as it’s not needed. Private White coats won’t either – which is why they don’t make more formal overcoats generally, like the ones listed here.

I did the collaboration with The Anthology on that coat because they not only have the characteristics of a good RTW tailored coat, like that canvas, but also do aspects of bespoke such as the hand-padded chest.

Tom in New Hampshire

Manish, To reinforce your point about the coat mattering, I have a short anecdote. I earn my living as a financial executive, but my client base is food companies, and I spend most of my time in factories and on farms, including large scale agribusiness animal operations. Consequently, my go to winter coat is a Carhartt cotton duck insulated jacket of the sort you would see on a North Bank of Alaska oil worker. Great jacket, but not exactly couture. I had a Board meeting and Christmas dinner in the Back Bay of Boston one year. It was particularly cold and windy that day with driving sleet and snow. I do not generally even wear a top coat in the US East Coast as I am well insulated and do not generally feel the cold in that part of the country. I wore the Carhartt over my suit and tie out of expediency. Ten years later I am still reminded of my wardrobe choice by my colleagues. Men and women notice your overcoat!
Best, Tom

Anonymous

Simon have you tried Mason and Sons made to measure or bespoke suits, blazers or sports coat offerings yet? They claim to be a dedicated exponent of the Conduit Cut. Are you a fan of this cut/style? I’m tempted to try them soon given the online research I’ve done so far. A few years ago I purchased some flannels (rtw) and the cloth, rise, price point, design and customer service were very impressive.Matt Spaiser recently uploaded a very positive review re one of their made to measure suits. Do you know how their made to measure option compares to Jean-Manuel Moreau’s which I believe you rate very highly? Thank You.

Simon Crompton

Hi there,

I haven’t tried them, no, so I can’t comment much. I do like that historic cut though.

The only thing I’d say about the MTM comparison is that the JMM ones are largely handmade, including a hand-padded and shaped chest for example, being made in Naples. The vast majority of MTM doesn’t have that level of handwork. Although I’d imagine that would also be a rather softer and more casual make than an English company trying to recreate the conduit cut.

dan

I bought myself an edward sexton Great overcoat knowing that it will last me decades to come. I think their RTW cut suits me very well given that they cut their shoulder wide which I like a lot. Their overcoat is what stands out to me the most with that brand. very friendly people. I have ordered another great coat but in water resistant cloth. I know, its a bit over the top given that raincoats materials are actually pretty cheap. but then I figured, if I was going to get a burberry coat which I think is overpriced for what it is, but is functional, then I may as well pay £300-£400 more, to get one from Edward Sexton in a MTO basis. The raincoat will be a green cloth, and probably will have purple or blue lining. need to find out what matches it best still. I prefer my raincoats to have a dressy function to it but still practical, which is why I went with this. I think if it was lighter colored, as much as I’d love it, I think it’d just get too dirty too easily and I’d be too worried about wearing it when its particularly mucky. That’s why dark is best I think.

I’d love a MTM or bepsoke coat but simply do not have the means to get one, but I do always appreciate the visual interest in one. I may end up getting one in 15 years or so depending on how things pan out. Either that or just more RTW coats with MTM offshore suits. They said the RTW fits me very well but shoulders needed to be a fraction wider, half an inch or less or so. Maybe if I can overlook that I can just go even cheaper ha.

Jason

Hi – thanks for the article, very helpful. I bought a nice Ralph Lauren DB overcoat, and would like to change the buttons to the same ones I have on the PS Bridge Coat. Where would I be able to find/buy these please? many thanks.

Simon Crompton

They won’t be exactly the same, but very nice – Bernstein & Banleys

Jason

Many thanks!

QJ

I’m looking at making a new overcoat at the moment and would like some advice on the fabric choice and colour.
I already have the forest green one from Frank Leder, and am looking to make something more formal yet casual enough to wear with a polo neck as I rarely wear suits. Would you choose charcoal or navy if you could only have one? I am also mulling over whether to get a very discrete herringbone pattern to add some interest.
My choice of fabric is either 100% wool or a wool cashmere blend. I do like the refinement cashmere offers, but am concerned about it’s ability to withstand daily wear in London, and I like the structured look that a wool coat has. I tend to wear my coat with the collar up in lieu of a scarf, and rather like the look as well.
Currently my tailor who is based in Shanghai, seems keen on promoting cashmere options, which does seem to be more popular based on Chinese social media.
Any thoughts? Thanks!

Simon Crompton

Hi QJ,
– I’d go for navy or a mid-grey. Charcoal can be a little smart.
– Herringbone would be great, yes
– I’d go for wool in that case
– I’m not surprised cashmere is more popular, it’s an easy sign of luxury etc, but I’d stick with wool for longevity

QJ

Thanks for the advice Simon!