Suit style 6: Buttons

Read MoreSep 23rd 2019

This is the sixth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here.  God, I love a good button. Some are so nice I co...

Suit style 6: Buttons

This is the sixth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here.  God, I love a good button. Some are so nice I co...

Sep 23rd 2019

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

Read MoreJan 20th 2020

This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats, and at cut, in hopefully comprehensive detail.  Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details - including cuffs/turn-ups, belts ...

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats, and at cut, in hopefully comprehensive detail.  Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details - including cuffs/turn-ups, belts ...

Jan 20th 2020

Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers

Read MoreNov 18th 2019

  Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore - the seventh in the Suit Style series - we’ll tackle one of th...

Suit Style 7: A guide to pleats on trousers

  Oddly, readers ask about style points on trousers more frequently than on jackets. Perhaps it’s because we don’t cover them as much. In this article therefore - the seventh in the Suit Style series - we’ll tackle one of th...

Nov 18th 2019

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

Read MoreJul 29th 2016

  This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Following on from previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, ...

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

  This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Following on from previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, ...

Jul 29th 2016

Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreJun 21st 2021

**This article is an extract from our book 'Bespoke Style', which sold out in less than a month last year. A new print is ready and will be on sale soon. If you would like early access, or are interested in stocking the book, please email [email protected]

Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style breakdown

**This article is an extract from our book 'Bespoke Style', which sold out in less than a month last year. A new print is ready and will be on sale soon. If you would like early access, or are interested in stocking the book, please email [email protected]

Jun 21st 2021

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

Read MoreAug 10th 2018

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue to be added to over the next...

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue to be added to over the next...

Aug 10th 2018

Suit style 2: The single breasted

Read MoreMay 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. How many buttons should I have on a single-breasted jacket? Just as hard a...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. How many buttons should I have on a single-breasted jacket? Just as hard a...

May 27th 2016

Suit style 3: The double breasted

Read MoreJun 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the d...

Suit style 3: The double breasted

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke double-breasted jacket by Dege & Skinner Perceptions of the d...

Jun 27th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear

Read MoreApr 29th 2016

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard   What's the difference between bespok...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard   What's the difference between bespok...

Apr 29th 2016

Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and proportions

Read MoreApr 30th 2018

  One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser openin...

Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and proportions

  One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser openin...

Apr 30th 2018

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreNov 25th 2019

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences.  So th...

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences.  So th...

Nov 25th 2019

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreApr 9th 2021

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing.  They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just under ...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing.  They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just under ...

Apr 9th 2021

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

Read MoreApr 24th 2020

Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a matter of comfort. So arguing ...

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a matter of comfort. So arguing ...

Apr 24th 2020

Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreMay 1st 2020

(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more traditional Neapoli...

Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown

(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more traditional Neapoli...

May 1st 2020

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreAug 5th 2019

Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris - the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known for the style of its shoulder, and fo...

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris - the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known for the style of its shoulder, and fo...

Aug 5th 2019

Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreAug 19th 2020

Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades.  Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters.  Kathryn Sa...

Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown

Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades.  Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters.  Kathryn Sa...

Aug 19th 2020

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreApr 19th 2019

  Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we're now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional ...

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

  Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we're now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional ...

Apr 19th 2019

The Guide to Suit Style

Read MoreAug 9th 2018

The Guide to Suit Style

Aug 9th 2018

Which house style suits your body shape?

Read MoreMar 7th 2016

  So, how shall we tackle this one then? Look at house styles in turn, or body shapes? I suggest we should look at each major house style, and consider the effects that each has on the body - accentuating one aspect, minimising another. It can the...

Which house style suits your body shape?

  So, how shall we tackle this one then? Look at house styles in turn, or body shapes? I suggest we should look at each major house style, and consider the effects that each has on the body - accentuating one aspect, minimising another. It can the...

Mar 7th 2016

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreMay 10th 2019

  Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, w...

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

  Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, w...

May 10th 2019

Book review - The Suit: Form, Function and Style

Read MoreAug 3rd 2016

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one.They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button merchant, and the embroiderer, bri...

Book review - The Suit: Form, Function and Style

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one.They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button merchant, and the embroiderer, bri...

Aug 3rd 2016

Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreSep 17th 2018

We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris - which is all close chests, roped shoulders and ornate finishing. Now, the ...

Camps de Luca pick-and-pick suit: Style Breakdown

We are travelling gradually south in this series covering the styles of the finest tailors in the world. So having covered the major styles of London, we arrive in Paris - which is all close chests, roped shoulders and ornate finishing. Now, the ...

Sep 17th 2018

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreAug 24th 2018

Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accen...

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style breakdown

Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accen...

Aug 24th 2018

Ferdinando Caraceni herringbone suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreOct 26th 2018

Following on from French bespoke style with Camps de Luca, we now arrive in Milan with Ferdinando Caraceni. Milanese tailoring has quite a distinct style, with light structure overall but a strong shoulder. So while tailors from Milan will talk a...

Ferdinando Caraceni herringbone suit: Style breakdown

Following on from French bespoke style with Camps de Luca, we now arrive in Milan with Ferdinando Caraceni. Milanese tailoring has quite a distinct style, with light structure overall but a strong shoulder. So while tailors from Milan will talk a...

Oct 26th 2018

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreFeb 6th 2019

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neapolit...

Feb 6th 2019