[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque that I use, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]]
The latest How to Spend It column looks at our friends Luca Avitabile and Luigi Solito (pictured), Neapolitan shirt and suit makers, and their efforts to build a client base in London.
Read it here.
Hello Simon,
How does the make/fit/finish of your Solito jacket compare with the two your two from Caliendo? It seems the price favours Solito, correct?
Regards
Yes, but finish is a bit better at Caliendo
I had my first shirt made by Luca late last year. It’s fantastic. Way better than previous bespoke shirts made in London and better value. Good luck to both of them.
I have to ask. What’s that on his wrist?!
The jacket looks very beautiful, but the person wearing it is sloppy and does it an injustice. I hope he’s not the person who made it.
Simon, I love the look of classic English tweed jackets, but wondered about weight of the cloth. Is a ‘proper’ traditional tweed (rather than a worsted wool imitation tweed like Harrison’s glorious 12th et al.) with a weight of 17 oz going to wear very hot in London? Its difficult to work out what it will be like esp. if you add the canvass etc to the whole thing. Also would this kind of jacket be heavy (I have a barbour wax jacket and don’t wear it because I find that too heavy on the shoulders after walking around town for a couple of hours). Would be good to get your view before I splurge £2.5k behind this venture! Cheers
I don’t think it needs to be 17oz, but you probably want to err on the side of weight. Also, I prefer hairier, spongier tweeds to the bunches like the glorious 12th.
http://www.deoost.nl/huddersfield-cloth-magdale/wc5otd83ebpv74eyeyz2xbwuz8csjj
I was specifically thinking of the cloth above, from Magdale bunch (Huddersfield) .. dirty brown /green .. which may divide opinion but I quite like the idea of it with a pair of cords. It is ~17oz in weight.
What I’m wondering is are cloths lets say above 14/15 oz going to be heavy on the shoulders, like say I find a barbour wax jacket (tbh I find the weight quite unbearable by the end of the day after standing up in the tube for 1.5hrs)? Ive never had experience of wearing such a heavy coat?
I’m afraid it’s very hard to say – you’re working with a very personal reaction to weight there. I would suggest going into a tailor and trying to find something of similar weight to wear for a bit while you talk through options. And buy it from a bunch at the tailor, rather than online
ok ta simon
Any idea the jack fabric? Love the deep blue with the orange check.
Think it’s Caccioppoli jacketing, but will check