Everyday Denim shirts available

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Wednesday, March 14th 2018
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I know I'm biased, but this shirt made in the Everyday Denim cloth we developed with Albiate/Albini last year is now easily my favourite. 

It has faded slowly and nicely, while stopping short of bleaching completely. The fading around the cuffs, placket, sleevehead and collar are subtle, but distinct - unmistakable up close but invisible at a distance.

After around 25 washes it is still fading, but very slowly, almost settling on a final patina. 

If I could, I'd wear it pretty much every day.

My daily uniform is usually an open-necked shirt, flannels or cavalry twills, with a jacket or shawl-collared knitwear over the top - and the Everyday Denim shirt goes with all of it.

It's smart enough for a navy blazer, and casual enough for a vintage-style RRL shawl. The button-down collar is cut to frame the face, but also have enough curl to sit around a tie if needs be. 

And of course it's nice that it's unique to Permanent Style.

A new batch of the shirts, in sizes S to XL, is now available on the Shop site

I've deliberately included images here of my shirt to give readers an idea of how it fades over time. 

And of course, as always the shirts are made by Luca Avitabile in Naples and have several hand-stitching steps. Both the practical (hand-attached collar, hand-attached sleeve) and the aesthetic (hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-attached buttons). 

There is no denim cloth to buy on its own at the moment, as that had its second batch at the end of last year. We will do another one, but not for a couple of months. 

I should say, by the way, that a couple of readers that don't have access to a shirtmaker have e-mailed saying they darted their Everyday Denim shirts.

The nice thing about a shirt (compared to a jacket) is that it can be darted quite deeply and almost from top to bottom, significantly changing the shape through the chest, waist and hips. 

If anyone is going to do this, do make sure to buy the right size for your neck and shoulders, given you can adjust much of the rest. 

For anyone that is new to the Everyday Denim shirts, here's a summary:

  • 'Everyday Denim' is so-called because it is a denim shirt a man in a modern office can wear every day. It is made in the same pale-blue colour as a regular office shirt but rendered more casual by its denim texture.
  • It uses a denim shirting from Albiate (part of the Albini group) that is exclusive to Permanent Style. A re-weaving of a cloth that wasn't commercial enough for mainstream stores because of its fading, but perfectly suits more advanced PS readers.
  • The shirts are made by Neapolitan bespoke shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, using several stages of hand-stitching to give it more of a bespoke fit (eg a smaller, hand-sewn armhole)
  • The buttons are flat, yellowed mother-of-pearl in order to give a vintage look to the shirt, which suits the fading denim
  • And the button-down collar is a style I developed with Luca on my bespoke shirts. It curves subtly outwards when worn open, rolling around the collar of the jacket and framing the face; but when the shirt is buttoned up, it also has enough shape to curve around a tie knot, rather than sitting flat against the body.
  • The cloth is a cotton twill, using 60/2 yarn in the warp and 120/2 in the weft. Being 2-ply is significant with denim, as most brands use cheap, single-ply yarn for denims - but 2-ply softens and wears better. 
  • Everyday Denim shirts are slightly more expensive than the Friday Polos, reflecting the exclusivity of the cloth, at £180 (ex-VAT).
  • Ships from the UK.

The full, original post on Everyday Denim can be found here.

Shirts available here.

Sizing:

  Chest Waist Yoke Neck Sleeve length Body length
Small 100cm 94 45 37 64 79
Medium 108 100 47 39 66 81
Large 116 108 49 41 68 83
Extra large 124 116 51 43 70 85


Other images:

Photography: Portrait image, Jamie Ferguson; other images, Permanent Style

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Kristian

Hi Simon
First, these shirts are just fantastic. I got one and immediately bought another of the last run. They have easily become my most frequently worn shirts. Should probably get more while they are available. At this price point they are an excellent value. Well done Simon.
I have a question, slightly off topic. In a previous post I think you have mentioned that you might do a collaboration on linnen shorts for this spring. Is that still on the agenda?

Kristian

Ha ha, linen shorts, not shirts. I went back and found it in an answer to a reader question under “What I pack when I travel”. You said you were considering a PS version tailored linen shorts.

Dixon

Any chance you will be offering just the denim cloth for sale again?
Thanks

Néstor

Hi Simon,

This have been my favourite shirt for a while too.

One thing that I think it’s spot on is the interlining. It’s soft but mantains the shape of the collar perfectly. I’d like to order the same type of interlining thorough my shirtmaker next time because the ones he usually puts are thicker, do you know how this interlining could be described?

Thanks in advance!

Néstor Valiño

That would be great, thanks!

Anonymous

Simon
A bit confused on sizing… I am a 15.5 in collar and 35 in sleeve (size 40 chest) where (roughly) would that put me? 35in seems to be about 90 cm for sleeves so really doesn’t line up!

Carl

Great!

I really love this shirt. I chose the option of buying the cloth and having Luca tailor it based on my pattern.

Will we be able to order short sleeved friday polos for the summer?

David

This shirt is an absolute winner.
Can we have the same in grey and in dark blue ?
Regards,
DRC

David

Maybe a nice light flannel would do it ?
I bought a grey flannel from Dunhill about three years ago – that cloth would be perfect.
Of course, the cloth is crucial but the cut and collar design is what makes it the 100% essential.
Just foryour info, I wear the EDD with my A&S cord suits without a tie and they stand up perfecty.

Taka

Hi Simon, great shirts these. I had Luca make me a shirt with the same collar but different cloth. I might look at a denim for the Spring.

Do you know what cloth Ambrosi uses for that particular trouser you are wearing? I would like something similar.

many thanks!

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

Hopefully you can offer some advice about size. I’ve bought a RTW brushed cotton shirt (slim fit) in size XXL (neck: 17.0 chest: 43) recently from Luca Faloni and find it fits me well. What size would you suggest for the everyday denim?

Thanks

Axel

Sorry to bother with sizing again:
My XL, (42) regular fit, Luca Faloni is just ok around the chest (118 cm), so your “L” with 116 seems to tight, while “XL” with 124 cm might be to baggy! Any advice?

Aaron

How does VAT and shipping figure into international orders (USA)?

Thanks!

Anonymous

Patina? On cloth? Grief.

How can you describe cloth as having a patina? Patina is a layer that sits on top of something, Like leather, or copper, or stone.

Anonymous

Know what you mean.

Weathered might work.

Martin

Wouldn´t washed out be correct? But patina sounds better I guess.

Fred

Simon, thank you. Order placed, fits a gap in my wardrobe. Look forward to wearing it hard.

Peter

Can’t say I like the shirt Simon. Packets and button down collars are two of my pet hates. I love the gloves so that’s a hit for me.

Gabe

On a vaguely related note, would you trust any of these online laundry companies with a shirt like this? I’ve realised life is too short for ironing. However, at the same time all of my shirts are bespoke and don’t want them to be ruined.

Anonymous

We need an article on how to iron a shirt!

David Jencks

I have been using this guide to ironing shirts for some time and love it: https://lavraiechemisesurmesure.blogspot.com/2009/02/comment-repasser-une-chemise.html?m=1

Anonymous

This looks rather labor intensive…

John Fickes

I share your affection for denim shirts, Simon. They perform well in my work environment — particularly with woven ties and sports-jackets. Yours is a fine-looking shirt and I’d love to buy one (and a polo, too), but I’m a 17.5-18″ neck sitting above a 46″ chest. Any chance of generating runs of size XXLs in your shirts?

Rik

On the washing point Simon, how do you do yours? Low temp? No spin? Your advice most welcome!

P Lewis

Hi Simon,

I received my shirt today: I have a 40 inch chest / 34 waist, and the large fits me perfectly (I prefer my shirts to be slightly looser than the current slim fit trend). I definitely think it would be worthwhile offering this shirt style in other colours and fabrics in future: perhaps a more casual range, such as other shades of blue denim, or brushed cottons for autumn?

Thanks,

Paul

Kingston Lim

Have noticed any of the stitching fray after washing it 25 times?

Ian

I take a 16.5 shirt collar, what size Denim shirt would I need to order ?? thank you….

ian

thank you, understood and just ordered one…

David Healy

Simon. Would it be easy to alter the shirt as whilst the chest will fit the waist will be loose? Thanks.

Rafael Ebron

Got one in a L. Easy sell and it’s nice shirt, good job.

Simon

Hi Simon

Do you have a recommendation for a tailor/shirtmaker to dart the shirt in London? The large is perfect on my chest and shoulders but very big on the waist.

Many thanks

Ian

Dear Simon, my shirt arrived yesterday and and I love the fabric, its weight and colour but unfortunately find the collar to high for my taste, could you tell me how I go about organising a return please. thank you Ian,

Ian Mazur

Thank you, if you could let me know how to proceed I would be very grateful as I am going away in a day or so and would like to get it sorted soon, thanks Ian.

V

Hi Simon,

Great shirts, but was actually going to ask where can I get a suede blazer like the one you’re wearing in the picture at the top of this page? Thanks!

Larry

This question has probably been asked and answered concerning the denim shirt but…15.5 neck and 38 chest. Is this a small or a medium? Thanks

Ian Mazur

Dear Simon, I have sent a couple of emails re a return, with no luck, could you please just post the returns address here and I will post the shirt myself today as i am going away soon, thank you Ian Mazur.

Darryl

Hello Simon
This is a wonderfull shirt and the fit is superb. However I find the arms to be very long. I had anticipated that they might shrink a little after washing but this doesn’t seem to be the case.
Is there anyone you could recommend who could shorten the arms in a sympathetic way without loosing too much of the hand stiched charm? Thanks.

Jon

I’ve just received one and love it– great cut, collar, colour, and looking forward to the evolving blue as it fades. However, the size L on me fits nearly too well– all buttoned up it’s exactly at the slim limit around my neck and wrists, sleeves on the short end of ‘long enough’. I believe I’ve learned all I need by reading these posts, but forgive me, Simon, for seeking succinct summary: the fabric is pre-washed? As long as I launder cold and hang dry, I don’t need to exchange it for an XL?

shem

hey simon is there any difference between darting the shirts and taking in the seams from the side? I generally prefer a clean back. My actual chest and waist are 38 and 32 inch. The chest looks good but the waist is too big.

J

Simon what do you think of adding side darts to denim shirt in general? Does it go against the overall more casual nonchalant feel of the shirt? I have broad shoulder but small waist so tend to find rtw denim shirt to have too much fabric at my waist

Frank

Hi
What size would You recommend?
My Rtw shirts from i.e. drakes are size 15.

Small or medium? I am 5,7, rather slim and I seldom wear a tie. I read that You would use a medium ? So small or

Frank

Thanks, yes I will try to measure a shirt .

I am used to go for the smallest size everytime I buy clothes, so small would have been my first choice per default?