Mr Vintage Fayre: Bringing vintage menswear together in London
This past Sunday was the second installment of ‘Mr Vintage Fayre’, a new vintage-shopping event in London. The first one was back in April, and was by all accounts a success (I couldn’t attend unfortunately, weekends being always a bit tricky with the family).
Such was its reception that the original plan for an annual event became a biannual one, and the number of sellers has increased (in number and prominence). This past Sunday the likes of Jojo from Rag Parade (in Sheffield), Max Sardi (@sanforized, normally showroom only) and Michael Levison (of Levison’s, Brick Lane) were showing for the first time.
Given the lack of vintage shopping in London, the event is very welcome, particularly as it brings in sellers that are outside London and otherwise classify as destinations. The location in Newington Green is not the easiest for everyone, but much easier than going round the country. It also makes it easier to have a bigger range of small sellers.
The event is held at the Mildmay Club - a lovely old building on the corner of Newington Green - and there was something of a village-fete feel to the whole event.
Son of a Stag had a big spread on the stage of the hall, with sparkling red, blue and yellow streamers behind them - normally the background to Friday’s jazz night, or the Charity Quiz. Upstairs there was a cake stall with coffees, teas and I have to say a very good BLT.
That atmosphere was probably accentuated by the nature of the industry. Vintage menswear is not a big world, and most of the dealers and customers know each other. Even if they’re working somewhere else, such as the staff of Clutch Cafe (who were there with a small stand), or Ben from Bryceland’s, they’re often customers.
That could make the Fayre sound intimidating, but it wasn’t. There was a lively atmosphere, but it was helped by the fact that it wasn’t as busy as last time, where apparently you couldn’t move in the morning.
This time it started slowly. There was the ticked 9-10am slot for the serious collectors (‘like birds of prey, they’re in and out, pounce and go’ in the words of one seller). But after that the flow started sedately and grew steadily stronger. I turned up at 10:15, and it was certainly busier by the time I left, around midday.
There was a bit of a mix of stands - not just the old and new, with the latter represented by Clutch and Son of a Stag - but also a watch dealer, a couple of record sellers, and vintage stands that were more of the mod-ish variety, all 50s tailoring, tie pins and trilbies.
But there was still enough of the standard military surplus and workwear, and in fact the thing I ended up buying was a pair of peccary gloves (£40) from one of the tailoring stands. They were beautifully hand sewn, and had a patina that had turned mid-brown into an array of blacks and browns around the palms and fingers.
My other favourite stand was Max’s, just because his selection was different from the others - more sportswear, with faded hoodies and flannel shirts alongside woollen hunting jackets. I almost bought a beautifully faded flannel shirt, but it was really a size too small, and in retrospect that was the right choice.
Apparently Max had two others that were sold to the 9-10 crowd, and one that would have been in my size, so that’s one reason the £5 for early admission might be worth it.
I did actually feel a little disappointed not to find more, despite the gloves. But I think that’s probably because I’ve been to Rag Parade, been to Max’s showroom, and was subconsciously expecting the same range, which is impossible given the size of a stand. There was still a huge amount to see, and it’s a lot better than any other option in London.
Thank you to Tony Sylvester and Jonny Trunk for organising, and creating this unique menswear event.
Everyone else, do go along next Spring if you can, and thanks also to Illya (@illcutz) for the photos.
Simon,
When will you be releasing the new raincoat?
Thought it was scheduled for this month.
Regards,
David
It was meant to be, slight delay but it will now be launching next Wednesday
A date for diary. Looking forward to seeing it.
Hi Simon,
This looks a very interesting event to visit. Great pictures. How do I find out about the dates in advance?
Thanks
Best to follow them on Instagram (account at the end of the article) or check that account in the new year
Why no pic of the gloves?
Illya took the photos separately, but I’m sure they’ll come up at some point
This is definitely loads of cheers and fun event 😎
Regarding vintage – maybe it’s just me but these photos make me positively itch. I’m just waiting for bugs to emerge.
Personally I think the only good vintage is your vintage. This is the end product of buying quality and ignoring spurious trends. I visual check reassures me that the average age of an item in my wardrobe – excluding underwear – is approximately 15. Some being as old as 40. All fit my like a glove and are intrinsically mine.
A classic example is a Zegna leather jacket I bought in NYC some twenty years ago.
One wag once said: “If you go out to buy a leather jacket you’ll make a mistake. Let the leather jacket find you.” This was certainly my experience. A lunch time stroll down 5th avenue saw me spy a take on a biker jacket high in Zegna’s atrium. This, I thought, is what I’ve being looking for. A member of staff explained to me that my size was actually the one on display but don’t worry I’ll get it down for you. Huge ladders were brought – at one juncture I thought they’d need scaffolding – and the item was on my back. It had found its home.
It cost about $2500 and my late wife beat me mercilessly when she saw the bill. Twenty plus years on it looks even better and I took great delight in noting that Zegna are selling version 10.0 for £7500 !
For me, that is vintage. My PS Trench is, after six great years, is on its way to achieving similar status.
Thank you David, that sounds wonderful.
Shame you feel that way about other vintage though. Always cleaned, never any issues from sellers like these, and you can buy newer pieces if you prefer that.
I will second David here.
Vintage is not for me….a full stop.
I just like the originality of a new piece of apparel, and the joy of caring for it.
I’ve had a pair of Crocket & Jones Bradford shoes for around four years. Not a perfect fit but cared for with pride.
Today they are like new.
Despite this being a menswear site, I think I have to compliment the photography attached with this article. Outstanding. Capturing candid shots is by no means easy. The photos contain great expression and composition. Good job!
That’s not a sneak peek of the forthcoming grey melange PS t-shirt you’re wearing?
Afraid not, no! But yes, Ilya has a great eye and really brought out the atmosphere of the event
ca. 1981 as a university student abroad I purchased a vintage British issue military trench at the Petticoat Lane market. A great find. Armani and Boss were drawing inspiration from military wear. I wore it endlessly traveling the continent speaking bad French thinking I was all that. Are there no longer discoveries to be made at the open air street markets ? Looking forward to an article on PS reader’s best vintage treasures.
Certainly not as much as there used to be, no. The clothing is a lot older and the market is more efficient.
A nice idea for a piece though
I buy a lot off vintage and/or 2nd hand clothes. I NEVER bring the clothes into the house without first hanging them outside for a day. The washable clothes are then immediately machine washed and those that need to be dry cleaned are taken to the dry cleaners before I bring them inside the house. Once in a while after a wool garment is dry cleaned you sometimes find evidence of moth or insect damage that was not apparent when purchased. This is just something you have to expect and accept when buying vintage clothing.
During a lockdown I bought a jacket off eBay with the intention of getting a couple of alterations once my tailors reopened. Took it out of my wardrobe after two months to find it riddled with moth holes that weren’t there when I first received it. Thankfully the rest of my clothes weren’t affected. Since then I give any wool item I buy second hand a moth spray and some time in the freezer to kill any potential moth eggs.
Hi Simon. When using the little magnifying glass on your web site, is there a way to sort for an item by date too, I.e., starting with the most recent posting? Many thanks.
There isn’t no, but we could look to introduce it. Can I ask the specific thing you were looking for? It might help to have the use case. Thank you
Simon, unrelated but just been thinking. Have you ever thought about the idea of a second hand shop? Perhaps only dealing with Permanent Style items, whereby readers could sell, via yourself, items purchased but no longer of use. Perhaps they no longer fit. Changed jobs etc…and find they no longer have the same use for a particular garment. This would make sense on so many levels. Selling on eBay I find is very hit and miss and I know that I’d more than likely purchase more of your newer releases if I could readily sell one or two of my older purchases that for whatever reason, I wear less nowadays. Just a thought…
Hi Richard,
I haven’t, to be honest, as it’s not something I’d really have the time to run, but I know others use Marrkt to sell some pieces like that. Have you tried them?
I see Nick Drake’s “Five Leaves Left” in a couple of shots, which is apt for this time of year. I’ve not really seen Nick Drake discussed in menswear terms but his outfit on that cover in particular is pretty timeless/modern – though maybe more 2010s than 2020s, at this point:
– button-down (with undone button-down collar)
– no tie
– jeans
– tasteful yet distinctive belt
– navy/dark sportcoat (perfect cuff)
Nick Drake was photographed in varying degrees of optimism or melancholy, with long flowing coats, turtlenecks, or hippie ponchos. Of his time but timeless, like his music.
On another note, this article reminds me of similar ones from years ago on other blogs. I really found my way into menswear when my dad gave me a Harris tweed jacket, which sent me on the hunt for more at thrift shops. I then started to read about tweed and down the rabbit hole I went. While I arrived relatively late to reading this site, by way of other sites, it’s interesting to see the circular flow of things: whether you start with bespoke commissions or hunting through thrift/vintage you can end up in the same place of high-quality, well-loved clothes that are worn for the joy of dressing. This also picks up on your recent article about your own journey over the past 15 years. Ruminations over a Saturday morning coffee…
Thank you for them
Event looks great!
London definitely underserved in terms of quality vintage shops given its size, history, etc.
Really nice to see something bucking the trend.
Hey Simon, I am an American travelling to London in a few months with my father, and he has a bit of interest in military/outdoorsy gear. Your London guide has a few shops (Cabourn, Real McCoy, Private White) that appear to have since closed their London locations. Are there any newer shops in that category that you would recommend?
Yes, that guide needs updating. I would recommend:
– Clutch Cafe
– Son of a Stag
– Brycelands
Simon I remember you suggesting a vintage shop in London that has a webshop in an article or a comment recently – unfortunately my search history is not helping, although I remember looking at some things available. Do you have any idea what it might have been please?
Worne London perhaps? They only do pop-ups though