Summer: Tan, white and cream
Summer outfits often involve white somewhere, as it’s nice to reflect the brightness of the weather – particularly if you’re in Italy and the sun is that much more consistent than it is in the UK. Combining more than one white &ndas...
Summer: Tan, white and cream
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Thanks Simon. I was just thinking that articles like this one are truly fantastic. A bit off the beaten path for lots of people and yet so so useful for all of us who love our clothing!...
Cashmere, denim and fresco
In response to a couple of requests from readers, here is that photograph from the Asprey workrooms in colour. Navy cashmere jacket from Solito. Dark-brown horn buttons that I bought myself from Weldon’s (Italians rarely have matte horn)....
Cashmere, denim and fresco
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Love the denim shirt and looking forward to seeing how it ages. As for interview attire, if it's in the tech industry, you could always go for the "California tuxedo" and pair a navy blue cotton blazer with tan chinos. N...
Postcards from Madrid
These past few days I’ve been in Madrid, speaking at the Aristocrata club meeting and seeing a few of the tailors and shoemakers I know ( Langa, Reillo, Calvo de Mora, Norman Vilalta). I invited Elia Caliendo and Luca Avitabile of Satria...
Postcards from Madrid
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Again, the price difference is largely down to London real estate, London wages etc, rather than attention to detail. But quality is still a part of it. You should certainly expect an A&S suit to be superior in fit, and ...
Levi’s final bespoke jeans
I’ve been wearing in my Levi’s bespoke jeans gradually over the past few weeks, and the raw denim is settling in well. For those unfamiliar with raw denim, it is favoured by those passionate about indigo twill for the way it mould...
Levi’s final bespoke jeans
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I do wear the white ones still, but not the others - because of fashion rather than fit, they simply feel too narrow to me now. I would say bespoke would be worth it for me, except the fact that I have now found two RTW ...
Solito and Satriano in How to Spend It
[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque that I use, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] The latest How to Spend It column...
Solito and Satriano in How to Spend It
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Think it's Caccioppoli jacketing, but will check...
Satriano Cinque and Solito dates
[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque that I use, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] For those with an interest in Nea...
Satriano Cinque and Solito dates
[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque that I use, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] For those ...
Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014
A few of the pictures of me from Pitti this year. Above, in brown tweed Caliendo jacket (more on that in a couple of weeks), Anderson & Sheppard flannels and Ralph Lauren madder-like orange handkerchief. Tweed such as this goes well with lot...
Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014
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There would need to be more contrast in texture, yes. Try charcoal plain-weave or fresco perhaps...
D’Avino shirts, Naples
One of the new makers I met in Naples last month was D’Avino, a small shirtmaker run by Fiorenzo Auricchio (above). Fiorenzo trained as a boy under his father, who worked for Gino Borelli – so a pretty decent education – and then se...
D’Avino shirts, Naples
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There is no shop, just a workshop, and it's a good 40 minute drive outsode Naples I'm afraid...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...
For those that were interested in the Chittleborough & Morgan suit I wrote about last week, here are some more images. The photography was done by new online luxury magazine Essence, for whom I wrote a short piece on Anderson & Sheppa...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...
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Around a year ago. And no, not in the immediate future....
Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars
[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] One of the nice things about having cl...
Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars
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Either double or single, perhaps with a rounded edge but doesn't have to be...
Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?
Hi Mr Crompton, I’m a fan of yours (Permanent Style, The Rake) from Singapore. I’ve been agonising over my shirts for some time and would like to ask your advice. I’ve been wearing bespoke T&A for about 10 years...
Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?
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Thanks for the tip...
Satriano Cinque and Solito back in September
[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque that I use, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] The Italians, frustratingly, don&...
Satriano Cinque and Solito back in September
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Thanks, Simon. Booked in for the September visit. I've gravitated away from double cuffs as well. For some reason I've grown to like the humble but simpler and more pared down button-cuff. As I think you may have written...
How a shirt should fit
Learning how a shirt should fit you can take surprisingly long – as most fans of bespoke try far fewer shirtmakers than they do tailors. Once learned, however, the lessons are fairly simple. They are becoming particularly clear to me as I c...
How a shirt should fit
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Yes you can certainly alter them, that's a good idea and better than doing MTM if you only need one or two things. Shirt length depends on whether you wear it tucked in or out. For tucked in, you generally want towards t...
Ciao Luca and Luigi
Luca from Satriano Cinque and Luigi Solito (left and right) were in town last week for fittings with a growing number of London clients. It’s been nice to see that grow in just a few months. I also find I particularly enjoy with craftsmen a...
Ciao Luca and Luigi
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I like solito style !!!! Come to Moscow , you will find a lot of good clients !!!!...
Sean O’Flynn bespoke dress shirt
At the end of last year I completed a project with Sean O’Flynn to cut a traditional dress shirt, with voile back, Marcella front and detachable stiff collar. Some readers may remember they have already seen this shirt in black tie shoots with ...
Sean O’Flynn bespoke dress shirt
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Just on fit? By ‘cut’ you don’t mean style or make? Then I’d probably say D’Avino, Sean and Charvet. But we’re talking very small differences between them all...
Satriano Cinque and Solito in London
[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque that I use, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] As promised in my recent po...
Satriano Cinque and Solito in London
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& how about Solito? Any idea what his price range for a suit or sportcoat is?...
Segun Adelaja: made-to-measure shirt review
The third in this series on bespoke shirts, this post looks at the made-to-measure service offered by Segun Adelaja, who owns a boutique in the Prince’s Arcade. It is obviously not a direct comparison to either Burgos or Satriano Cinque, as it ...
Segun Adelaja: made-to-measure shirt review
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You'll have to contact them Ola - it's a long time since I've been to the shop I'm afraid...
Satriano Cinque: Bespoke shirt review
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Satriano Cinque: Bespoke shirt review
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To be honest it's been a long time Morten, but I don't think there was that much distinctive about the Burgos style - it was similar to an English shirt like Budd, and quite formal as a result. The quality was good for t...
Blue shirts: Burgos, Satriano Cinque, Segun Adelaja
This week is blue-shirt week. Over the next three days I will post about three blue shirts made for me in recent months, by three different makers. Hopefully running the three together will make for some interesting comparisons. They are all identica...
Blue shirts: Burgos, Satriano Cinque, Segun Adelaja
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Hi I am looking for a soft light blue cotton shirt ,do you please forward me any link and offers. thanks...
Papped at Pitti
My question is, why do they credit Luca in these pictures but not me? Is he more famous or something? Photo above by Tommy Ton at GQ, below by Nam from Grazia. Cashmere/corduroy suit from Anderson & Sheppard, shirt from Satriano Cinque, cash...
Papped at Pitti
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It was Loro Piana cord. There is only one bunch, but bear in mind it may have changed in the intervening years...
Satriano Cinque: bespoke shirt, Naples
In Naples last week, I was able to have a fitting on the shirt I ordered from Satriano Cinque earlier in the year. As neither Luca nor Gabriella travel to London, this was the only opportunity to get a fitting done – indeed, in the end we h...
Satriano Cinque: bespoke shirt, Naples
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Thank you....
