The Simone Abbarchi workshop, in a little street,...
I know shirtmaker Simone Abbarchi has a lot of PS customers in London and New York. They might like to know - and see - where their shirts are made. It’s a little workshop about 10 minutes drive outside of Florence. Simone arrives every morni...
The Simone Abbarchi workshop, in a little street,...
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Thank your for this view behind the curtains! I like the trend the people want to know how and were their clothed are made. Too long we just thought about styling - and too less about the conditions behind it....
Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles
I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes. But everyone’s stock has been arriving so late that the int...
Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles
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A late comment on this, but... When you're paying for a small, niche brand like Rubato, part of what you're paying for is the quality and design. Quality here doesn't always mean durability or hand finishing (though thos...
Reader profile: Patrick
Patrick Dawson is a retired news correspondent, now living in London. During his career he worked for ABC, CNN and NBC and covered the Balkans War from Kosovo, the Gulf War from Kuwait, and was the first NBC correspondent on the ground during 9/11. ...
Reader profile: Patrick
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Pat Dawson has -always- looked great. He and I competed in local news in NYC back in the late 80s, and even then he was the best-dressed man I knew. I'm not at all surprised it has continued....
Reader profile: Ben
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben
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Love the semi-casual....
New black bullskin tote, and angled DBs
A new black version of our bullhide tote, a collaboration with Frank Clegg, goes on sale today. It’s available on the Frank Clegg site (not ours) alongside a restock of the dark brown. I shot some pictures of it with Alex last week, and it re...
New black bullskin tote, and angled DBs
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Amazing, thanks Bo. I hope you really enjoy it - and that it provides a nice alternative to the rest of your collection...
My shirt collars
When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly as we&rsqu...
My shirt collars
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No worries. When the collar is fastened, the distance between the points of the collar, where they sit on the body...
The cream shirt
There is a certain type of gentleman who swears by the cream shirt. Who argues passionately for its elegance over that boring, corporate alternative: white. When I say there is a type, I am basing this on three men, all of an older generation, who ...
The cream shirt
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Love a cream shirt, moreso an off-white/ivory shirt with just a hint of yellowing, I've heard the terms used interchangeably. Great for when I'm not sure if I want a white or blue shirt. People say cream shirts work bett...
Introducing: The Madras linen
There is a certain preponderance among men to order bespoke shirts in loud checks. This must be the case, because most patterned materials offered for bespoke are bright and loud. Even though the ones available in a mill’s full collection - o...
Introducing: The Madras linen
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They are, yes. That would be great, we just need to find a different mill as Thomas Mason don't seem to be able to get the washing right anymore...
Monochrome and concrete: Styling grey, charcoal a...
Although I love rich, natural colours (particularly in Autumn) I've always been fascinated by the subtleties of monochrome dressing. It has such strong style, and yet there is so little too it. It's striking and unusual, and yet quiet. These photo...
Monochrome and concrete: Styling grey, charcoal a...
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No worries Daniel. Dark-brown suede could be fine - rather like black jeans, when they're faded and have enough of that casual vibe as your charcoal linen sounds like it has, they work well. Also, I'd encourage you to co...
Florence: A sartorial shopping guide
Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uomo. But it has enough ...
Florence: A sartorial shopping guide
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I'm afraid it doesn't, sorry Darshan. To be honest, I also don't really use makers specifically for trousers these days, as so many tailors that make everything also make trousers that are just as good....
Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours
There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extremes, I would argue proportions...
Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours
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I think it would look great in either, and no, I really don't think a cut always looks better in any particular fabric - just different. Eg a fine worsted is more formal and arguably suits a sharper cut. But there is som...
The in-between (pub, weekend) jacket from Stile L...
As on Wednesday, so today. A piece made to measure by Neapolitan brand Stile Latino, with similar attractions. As with the completely unstructured coat we featured on Wednesday, this jacket is: An effective bridge between the formal and the casua...
The in-between (pub, weekend) jacket from Stile L...
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No, sorry. With brands like Stile Latino they're rarely materials that are available by the cut length....
Simone Abbarchi shirt fitting
When I brought my shirt from Simone Abbarchi back to him in June (or rather his assistant, Gianluca) we ended up making quite a few changes. This may be a cause for concern, though I will reserve judgment. I had had one fitting originally, in a t...
Simone Abbarchi shirt fitting
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I can't really tell from a photo Jack, sorry. Particlarly as there are lot of elements to it - height, button gap, shape of the point. Sorry...
Simone Abbarchi – finished bespoke shirt
It’s probably worth saying this once more. These images are merely indicative. They are intended to give a general impression of the shirt (a lovely grey from Simone Abbarchi). They are not intended to be the basis of an assessment of the fi...
Simone Abbarchi – finished bespoke shirt
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Sure, thanks, Simon....
Grey cashmere and brown flannel: Caraceni and Abb...
Last week’s explanation of how I put an outfit together seemed to be popular, so let’s try that again. This outfit is simpler than last week’s. There are fewer colours, there’s no tie to worry about, the handkerchief is pla...
Grey cashmere and brown flannel: Caraceni and Abb...
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Yes, I'd start with brown as the safest, then try something that is similar, like olive, and only occasionally look for something with more contrast that was a harmonious colour...
Simone Abbarchi shirts, Florence
Simone Abbarchi is a Florence-based shirtmaker that has made for my friend Tommaso Capozzoli for a long time. He has always said that they have a very good relationship between price and quality, and he’s right. Simone’s made-...
Simone Abbarchi shirts, Florence
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Thanks Graham. If you have any other info to share, such as what you liked or disliked about the style or make, that would still be useful. Cheers...
Grey shirts with grey suits, at Milan launch
Last week was the official launch of the Permanent Style book, with an event in Milan hosted by Vitale Barberis Canonico and A Caraceni. I was interviewed by the fashion editor of La Repubblica, Simone Marchetti, about my history and views on cont...
Grey shirts with grey suits, at Milan launch
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I still quite like them with grey suits Philip, but it's certainly more of a fashion look...
