Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
May 12th 2021About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Covid - consistently got in the...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
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Simon, I agree with this sentiment!!! A good fit and style is worth that expense. I may pay Blackhorse a visit pretty soon. Pair your Blackhorse jeans or indeed any jeans with one of Tim Hardy’s of Worcestershire fanta...
Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
April 21st 2021There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broadway & Sons in Go...
Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
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Good to see them opening a new place in Burnham on Crouch, Essex on 15th September. Friday's and Saturday's initially I believe - and by appointment . Promising unseen vintage.. I feel a day out on the coast coming on.....
The craft and eccentricity of 45R
April 19th 2021The 45R store in London is a little jewel on Brook Street, just round the corner from Fenwick’s, next to the far more imposing Issey Miyake. I can imagine Permanent Style readers being drawn in by the indigo textures on display in the window,...
The craft and eccentricity of 45R
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This is absolutely true....
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
April 7th 2021White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
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It depends a lot on the material Max - how heavy or coarse it is - but I think you're probably looking at wearing them in the same way as these jeans, yes, unless the shape is much bigger and wider...
How to wash and wear raw denim
March 26th 2021People get in a real muddle over raw denim. A reader commented a couple of weeks ago that he didn’t like it because ‘you’re never allowed to wash it’. Of course you can wash raw denim. You might want to wash it less, at the ...
How to wash and wear raw denim
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Well I guess depends on denim. My blackhorse lane (super dense weave) didn't change much after delicate 20 *wash, 800 spin, but my Oni secret super rough (super loose weave) lost nearly 2" inseam on delicate 40* wash 400...
How jeans can be altered
January 29th 2021One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their longevity - that in fact, jeans...
How jeans can be altered
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I would like to recommend Lumi Fashion Design in St John's Wood, London They did fantastic work on a pair of jeans I needed some alterations on. I have used the Denim Doctor in the past, who are very good, but really hap...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
September 7th 2020There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
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I think that's beautiful Amit, but it is also a very particular style - I'd want to try it on to get a sense of the vintage fit...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
May 18th 2020The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear of thrift shops, or seeking ba...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
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check out Natalino, Fullcount by the Decorum, Rubato, Berg and Berg....
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
March 4th 2020There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
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No, sorry Owen. We do now offer the cloth for readers to buy though, so you can do that and have it made yourself somewhere...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
September 13th 2019Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
September 11th 2019Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
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They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range over...
March 13th 2019One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would normally be half an hour before w...
Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range over...
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They're pretty substantial but not over the top. I don't know the Horatio one but I'd say these are similar to the A&S in thickness...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and availab...
December 14th 2018Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: navy, green, grey and white. Yo...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and availab...
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I think it could look good, yes. I tend to wear them with softer cuts of tailoring, and that will be easier, but they can work with others - just keep the materials more casual, as you suggest...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
November 16th 2018Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on in person (always particularl...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
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after buying 1 blackhorse lane jeans and a pair of Oni denim and going down the rabbit hole for about 2 weeks... for jeans durability sweet spot seems to be 15-20 Oz. anything less "rubs out" quicker, anything more "brea...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
November 12th 2018Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
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Good question. I had originally taken your intended meaning to be one of practice in style, but now I read it as tailoring or design expertise. If it is the latter, then, yes, question answered....
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...
September 26th 2018One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers. I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jacket to work with jeans it need...
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...
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It's borderline, but it can work nicely. It helps a lot that the brown is not that strong or warm, so you can wear it with charcoal or black trousers, for instance. That with black shoes and a white pocket square, perhap...
Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake
July 30th 2018Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlighting their tips and in...
Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake
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I second Crazy Pig. Some of their designs are really fashion forward, but I found a lovely, slim signet ring (exactly what I’d been trying to find without success for well over a year). I popped over to the food court ...
How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans
May 18th 2018Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, showing i...
How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans
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I have tried Blackhorse lane - look up my coverage of that service...
Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you w...
February 28th 2018Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their roots in particular parts of th...
Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you w...
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Overshirts could fall into several, particularly as it's not really a traditional category of clothing. A military one would be something like the Jungle Jacket, a workwear one more a heavy flannel shirt worn over a ther...
Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans
February 14th 2018Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to know Blackhorse Lane At...
Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans
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Thanks, nice tip...
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
December 21st 2017The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; suede suggests a more dressy look...
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
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No worries. I think a slim might be good then - unless you really like that big, blousy traditional style...
Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the po...
December 14th 2017It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, lining up his ties with his...
Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the po...
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Perhaps talk to them about that Shem. I wore a Medium...
How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style
October 13th 2017This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on those being discussed. So in ...
How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style
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I don't, no, I find them too chunky for my style generally...
Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan
August 18th 2017Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather. But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write about something that's actually in...
Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan
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It's a mix of two things: the cut I find a little too slim and tapered now, and the washes I don't like that much - they feel a bit too artificial. I'd go with raw denim and wear them in yourself....
Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis op...
May 26th 2017Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even last night the mirrors w...
Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis op...
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It's very early days - I've only worn them one day. But my initial thoughts are that I like the low profile, the suede, and the low lacing - they all give them character. I wore them with workwear chinos and they were gr...
