Suits: advice from Mr Porter
June 12th 2012For a while now, Mr Porter has been shaming the men’s magazine industry by writing the most accessible, practical information for men out there on how to wear clothes. Last week they put a together a series of clips to illustrate practical ...
Suits: advice from Mr Porter
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I beg to differ. Daniel Craig wins hands down. Try watching the crime series Whitechapel - Rupert-Henry Jones defines suits like a man should....
Sartoria Vergallo, final suit
March 21st 2012I received the final suit from Vergallo a couple of weeks ago, and am pleased with the results. I think the most pertinent thing to say by why of analysis is that the cut is very soft – perhaps softer than I expected from a northern Italian tai...
Sartoria Vergallo, final suit
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I have been reading through your archives over the past few months. Your style evolution has been significant. You definitely favored flair, and sharper, showier cuts, when you first started the blog. While you still see...
Going tieless; Hemingway Tailors suit
September 21st 2011Without a tie, men lose the biggest opportunity to express themselves easily in colour and pattern. But I don’t like wearing a tie every day either. The key if you’re not going to wear a tie is to add accents elsewhere, such as in a pocke...
Going tieless; Hemingway Tailors suit
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No, sorry Luke. I've met him once or twice but never had anything made there....
Naples, Kiton: suit pictures
July 25th 2011Not for the first time, the inimitable Andy Barnham has ridden to my rescue. Below, the pictures of the suit making process at Kiton in Naples that I discussed in my previous post, but lacked images for. These are taken from a previous trip Andy did....
Naples, Kiton: suit pictures
Not for the first time, the inimitable Andy Barnham has ridden to my rescue. Below, the pictures of the suit making process at Kiton in Naples that I discussed in my previous post, but lacked images for. These are taken ...
Naples, Kiton: suits
July 22nd 2011My most extensive visit while in Naples this week was around Kiton’s factory, which is just outside the city. It is a big, well-aired facility that serves a frankly cracking lunch. I’ve never had mozzarella like it. All of the hundreds of...
Naples, Kiton: suits
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Yes, there will be duties often on something over $800, but they're not usually 20%, so less than the tax we pay...
Different ways to pad the chest of a suit
July 13th 2011A reader commented that the way he spots a good bespoke suit is to look under the lapel and look for the little pinpricks that betray hand padding. This does indeed show where the tailor has come through the suit cloth as he sews the parts of the che...
Different ways to pad the chest of a suit
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It's the actual act of pad stitching the chest piece of a jacket....
Choppin & Lodge cotton suit
July 1st 2011A cotton suit, or at least jacket, should be a staple of casual summer wear. Cotton is often derided by fans of bespoke because it has no drape and wears out quicker than other fabrics. But the issue of drape – how the cloth falls across your b...
Choppin & Lodge cotton suit
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Yes Robert, no thread on PS ever dies, it only matures! I would press them at home, yes...
A plain business suit from Timothy Everest
June 27th 2011Readers have made the point that my bespoke commissions often seem to be rather outlandish pieces: the Huntsman shooting suit, for example, or the Timothy Everest velvet jacket. Why, at least one has asked, do you not have simple business suits made?...
A plain business suit from Timothy Everest
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Blimey. Up to you on the lining. Matching is conservative but can be nice; bright red or blue can be a little jarring; personally I prefer dark, sophisticated colours these days, like a mossy green or burnt orange....
Five tips on looking better in a suit
May 20th 2011At a party last week a nice young man asked me what my top five tips would be for wearing suits. It sounded like a nice practical question, so here we go: 1. Have a ready-to-wear suit altered Most men that buy suits don’t have them altered,...
Five tips on looking better in a suit
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Sure. Most of the time, there is only one button that you're meant to fasten, because it is on your waist - it is the narrowest point, from which the chest sweeps up and the skirt sweeps down. The jacket is not cut to ha...
Tweed Run 2011, in Huntsman shooting suit
April 10th 2011It wasn’t what this shooting suit was designed, cut or bought for, but it turns out the waistcoat and plus-fours are extremely practical for cycling. The plus-fours are high enough on the waist to cover the shirting at your back even when r...
Tweed Run 2011, in Huntsman shooting suit
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I was observing the Run whilst strolling down Regent Street. Impressive turn out and very brave of you all bearing in mind the heat that day!...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 6
March 30th 2011Tailoring is a very technical art. Despite the many times I have seen a suit being chalked, cut and made, there is still an awful lot I don’t understand and certainly can’t explain easily. Perhaps it could only be fully understood by doin...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 6
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Since you brought this old article up in the russel check one: They could have certainly cut a new collar or even just a new upper collar. That would have only used a minimal amount of fabric. But maybe they are very eco...
Altering the neck of a suit
January 17th 2011This is an alteration to an old flannel suit, pinching in and raising the neck of the jacket slightly to correct a collar that currently stands a half inch away from my neck. This, of course, is one of the last alterations you should have done. It ca...
Altering the neck of a suit
This is an alteration to an old flannel suit, pinching in and raising the neck of the jacket slightly to correct a collar that currently stands a half inch away from my neck. This, of course, is one of the last alteratio...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 5
December 15th 2010A final fitting on the Huntsman shooting suit last week, and only David Ward’s little tweaks stopped it being taken away. Good as the fit might look here, David insisted on taking a tiny tuck just below the right shoulder on the back of the...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 5
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Cameron, I robustly disagree. There's nothing outlandish or impractical at all about the fabric. It's merely designed to go where you and the flock fear to tread....
A couple of great three-piece suits
October 27th 2010Before the game gets down to braces Esquire, February 1938: “This father and son contest has apparently just begun, to judge from the length of their cigars and has not yet reached that coat-divesting warm-up stage which would reveal the pl...
A couple of great three-piece suits
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Nice! What a great combination Jerry, thanks for sharing, really pleased that versatility worked out...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 4
October 13th 2010This is the first, basted fitting for my Huntsman shooting suit, following up from last week’s post on the cutting of the pattern. You can see the line of the plus-twos, which are full yet narrow perceptibly to the knee. Adding a little bit mor...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 4
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What a shocker! I hope you didn't pay for it....
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 3
October 6th 2010My pattern has been created at Huntsman ahead of cutting the shooting suit we began discussing a few weeks ago. Featured here are two aspects of it that are unfamiliar to me, and probably to many readers. The first is the pattern for the plus twos. T...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 3
My pattern has been created at Huntsman ahead of cutting the shooting suit we began discussing a few weeks ago. Featured here are two aspects of it that are unfamiliar to me, and probably to many readers. The first is th...
Pictures of the Toby Luper suit
September 29th 2010Apologies for the frankly terrible picture of me. I had to take it on my mobile phone – you get a general idea of the fit though. Other pictures show the side buckle and hand-sewn buttonholes.
Pictures of the Toby Luper suit
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An excellent, honest and refreshing response Mr. Luper. Great to see such a refreshingly open approach and I hope the complainant had the decency to contact you....
Final suit from Toby Luper
September 29th 2010The last post on this suit was back in March. With both of us being away at various points in the summer, and Toby’s schedule coming down to London from Leeds, we only managed the final fitting in August. As I had mentioned in a previous post, ...
Final suit from Toby Luper
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Sure, sorry guys was actually planning to do so for this post but ran out of time. Expect some later in the week. Simon...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 2
September 6th 2010Following up on the last post in this series, on Huntsman tweed, this runs through the style of a shooting suit and being measured. The suit shown here is three-button, but I opted for a more classic Huntsman one-button front in order to make it bett...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 2
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Lovely to see the traditional craft of cutting a shooting suit covered on this informative website! Beautiful tweeds, will the final jacket have a shooting vent on the sides of the back or in the centre? A pleasant surpr...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 1
August 30th 2010This marks the beginning of a new series of posts tracking the making of a Huntsman tweed shooting suit. A three-piece with plus-twos in one of this year’s house tweeds (above, right, and second from the left on the sleeves). The tweed is a rev...
Huntsman tweed suit: Part 1
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Thank you Brian, that sounds great...
Silk suits and shantung
May 26th 2010Two opposite types at the horse show Esquire, July 1934: “They hold these things all over America in the summertime, particularly in the country fair regions. We guess the guy on the right didn’t know he was coming to this one. Pr...
Silk suits and shantung
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Certainly the gentleman standing on the seat drives the Bugatti, because the other gentleman is not taking off his jacket to engage him in fisticuffs....
The chest of an Anderson & Sheppard suit
December 14th 2009Anderson & Sheppard probably has the most individual silhouette on Savile Row (though strictly they are, of course, off the Row on Old Burlington Street). The original, draped style developed by Frederick Scholte has become a firm house styl...
The chest of an Anderson & Sheppard suit
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The answer is, yes they might but only a little. Hard to quantify the amount, particularly in the chest, but if it's something you really don't like it might be worth looking elsewhere...
Sharp suits launch event
September 30th 2009Last night saw the launch of Sharp Suits by Eric Musgrave, at the Richard James store on Savile Row (as well as a parallel event at Norton & Sons across the road exhibiting the new E Tautz line for family and friends). Photos of the launch a...
Sharp suits launch event
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Review and launch party: Sharp Suits
September 29th 2009Today is the launch party for Eric Musgrave’s new book, Sharp Suits. It’s being held at Richard James’s premises on Savile Row – the proprietor also lending an introduction to the book. Sharp Suits itself is a very welcome add...
Review and launch party: Sharp Suits
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Why you buy bespoke suits first
September 20th 2009After four bespoke suits made in Hong Kong over the past few years, and now embarking on my second British bespoke suit, I find it hard to see how I could ever stop getting a particular thrill out of it. But it will be a while before I pay for bespok...
Why you buy bespoke suits first
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Thank you Simon. If any reader of Permanent Style has experience with Spoon Tailor in San Francisco, I'd very much appreciate input. My one concern with them is that I don't "know" what I want. By that I mean, I need som...
